2000 Camry 2.2l - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-15-2019, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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2000 Camry 2.2l

Need help understanding when the cooling fans on this car should run. I do not have a Toyota service manual, but I do have a Chilton manual. It states that the fans should run all the time at a low speed and at faster speed when the A/C is on. I have replaced the ECT switch, located in the bottom of the radiator. The fans do not come on with that switch plugged in, but they do come on when that switch is unplugged. Why is that? Any help greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-15-2019, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tellnoone View Post
Need help understanding when the cooling fans on this car should run. I do not have a Toyota service manual, but I do have a Chilton manual. It states that the fans should run all the time at a low speed and at faster speed when the A/C is on. I have replaced the ECT switch, located in the bottom of the radiator. The fans do not come on with that switch plugged in, but they do come on when that switch is unplugged. Why is that? Any help greatly appreciated.
Hm, I've never taken the time to notice if fans are on all the time so maybe somebody else can tackle that. But what I can say is:

1. Yup, fans should be on all the time with A/C on
2. The thermo fan switch goes open when the temp is beyond the threshold, unplugging the connector triggers the same behavior. The switch is normally closed

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post #3 of 6 Old 05-15-2019, 03:27 PM
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Here's what I can tell you from my recent cooling system experience on my '98 2.2. My inquiry stemmed from the engine coolant temperature gauge moving slightly above the middle while stopped in traffic after the motor reached full operating temperature. My coolant temp indicator when then fall right back down to the mid point on the gauge once the car started moving again. The gauges fluctuation didn't happen all the time (first clue). So the gauge was either responding to additional air flowing across the rad while the car is moving or the rad fans have been turned on by the rad thermo switch.


Some to satisfy my curiosity here were my observations:


My fans do not run all the time even if the motor is at full operating temperature vie the temp gauge on the dash. Normal Condition. The only things triggering the fans to turn on are 1) Rad Thermo Switch after making its critical temperature and 2) the Air Conditioner being on.

Both fans run when the AC is on. Normal Condition


The fans with activate when the rad thermo switch is unplugged at either the switch itself or by the wiring lead on the top of the radiator on the Driver's side. Normal Condition
The rad thermo switch can be tested for operation by partially submerging in on the stove and reading the ohm resistance while in a small pan of water with a thermometer in the water measuring temp at which the switch close and turns on the fans and then at which temperature the switch opens and turns off the fans. My rad thermo switch closed at 188 degree F and the resistance on the rad Thermo switch went to zero. Anything below 188 degrees F and the resistance in infinity indicating an open circuit and thus no fan operation. 188 degree F is within the acceptable temperature range for this switch.
To activate the rad thermo switch on car it can take 20 - 30 minutes for everything to get hot enough to close the rad thermo switch and the fans to activate. I sat there and watched mine until the magic happened. once the fans pull enough heat out of the rad the rad thermo switch opens and the fans stop. This on and off of the fans just keeps cycling when one or the other condition is met. You can test the resistance of the rad thermo switch on the car the same way I did on the stove with hot water the only difference is you don't know at what temp the rad thermo switch is closing and trigging the fans. Which is suppose is somewhat irrelevant as we don't have digital engine coolant temperature indicators on our dashes but if you have an OBD II reader most have a coolant temperature reader and you can monitor this at the same time.




There are 3 fan relays all in the long fuse box inside the engine compartment on the Driver's side. I believe Relay 1 if pulled will turn on the fans as if the thermo switch closed. I proved this concept while waiting for everything to get up to temperature to close the rad thermo switch. You can hover the relay above the contact in the fuse block and feel, hear the contact close and the fans start. Normal Condition.


I didn't fool with the other 2 fan relays so I can't help you there.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-15-2019, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tellnoone View Post
Need help understanding when the cooling fans on this car should run. I do not have a Toyota service manual, but I do have a Chilton manual. It states that the fans should run all the time at a low speed and at faster speed when the A/C is on. I have replaced the ECT switch, located in the bottom of the radiator. The fans do not come on with that switch plugged in, but they do come on when that switch is unplugged. Why is that? Any help greatly appreciated.
The fans will only come on when either the coolant reaches a certain temperature that the coolant temperature sensor reads or when the AC is turned on.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-17-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, you cleared that up for me. I've replaced the ECT Sensor and the ECT Sender Unit, both located near the engine end of the top radiator hose. I've also replaced the ECT Switch, located in the bottom of the radiator. The overheating problem has improved, but not gone away entirely. If I let the engine idle for 10 or 15 minutes the temp gauge will start to rise slowly and the fans do not come on. Even when the gauge nears red the fans never come on. If I disconnect the plug at the ECT Switch, the fans come on and the temperature gauge ceases to climb. What are your thoughts on this. Thanks.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-17-2019, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Tellnoone View Post
Thanks, you cleared that up for me. I've replaced the ECT Sensor and the ECT Sender Unit, both located near the engine end of the top radiator hose. I've also replaced the ECT Switch, located in the bottom of the radiator. The overheating problem has improved, but not gone away entirely. If I let the engine idle for 10 or 15 minutes the temp gauge will start to rise slowly and the fans do not come on. Even when the gauge nears red the fans never come on. If I disconnect the plug at the ECT Switch, the fans come on and the temperature gauge ceases to climb. What are your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Warm the car up and feel on both radiator hoses, should be about the same temperature. If not then remove the thermostat and try again. If both hoses are hot this time then thermostat is probably faulty. Or you can check the thermostat by itself in a pot of boiling water for 5-10 seconds and you should see it open up fully and when removed it will contract. Thermostat housing is just to the left of the oil filter and is held on with two 10mm nuts. Did you test the sensors before you replaced them? How about any coolant service done to the car prior to the issue?

Last edited by Mastered; 05-17-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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