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"Is there an easy way to fix this?"
It all depends, if the stud is broken off flush it will be more difficult, but it can be fixed.
Step 1) drain the coolant and remove that hose outlet completely, to fully expose the stub
Step 2) if the stud is sticking up a little, heat it with a propane torch (don't want to get it too hot, and don't want to melt any wiring or other hoses nearby, just get the stud good and hot), then touch a candle to the base so its wax is drawn into the threads
Step 3) use a stud extractor (a kind of a socket with rolling bars inside which grips the end of a stud for removal) on your ratchet. If you don't have one, or access to borrow one, then if the stub is long enough fit two matching nuts, torque them against each other and turn the lower one with an open end wrench to try and remove the stub
Step 4) if above doesn't work, or if it is broken off flush with the block, then you have to do more work: center punch the stub, and use some oil for cooling and a small diameter drill bit to drill down the center of the stud (gauge the depth of one of the other holes and mark your drill bit so you know when to stop). This small diameter hole needn't be in the exact center, you just don't want to damage the soft aluminum engine while you do it.
Step 5) use a slightly larger diameter bit to enlarge the hole, and again, larger, until you just kiss the threads. At this point the stub will usually come out with a simple dental pick to turn it with.
Hint: use a slower drill speed generally cuts faster (long, curly chips is ideal). Most drills turn way too fast for drilling through 3/4" of steel like this (or whatever the length of the stub is). 100 or 200 rpm is more than enough. Too much will overheat the bit, lose its temper and then you can't drill anything with it.
I've tried all kinds of "magic" tools and none of them work as well, or as quickly as this simple technique an old mechanic taught me many years ago.
It is pretty easy, and works great, once you've tried it.