DIY: GEN 3 Brake Shoe Replacement and Parking Brake Adjustment - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 3rd & 4th Gen (1992-1996 & 1997-2001)/1st Gen Solara (1999-2003) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 1992-1996 & 1997-2001, as well as Solara discussion for years 1999-2003. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #16 of 54 Old 09-21-2008, 09:34 PM
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Mine were just as rusted when I worked on the brakes, although I also replaced the drums. Damn winter road conditions

1992 Toyota Camry LE 5SFE 4 cyl. 2.2L
A.K.A. "Ron Burgundy"
198,000 mi. (as of February 9th, 2010) and counting
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post #17 of 54 Old 09-22-2008, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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As I mentioned in above procedure, I bought a cheap pair of brake spring pliers like these

http://tinyurl.com/4al59x

but couldn't figure out how to use them on the Camry drum brakes. Maybe they don't work on Toyotas? Anyone know how they work?

2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 94K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 67K miles
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post #18 of 54 Old 10-24-2008, 02:17 PM
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Lubricating the cable does not seem to be a good idea. There is no seal at the end inside the drum space, so the grease will attract dirt and grime and cause it to drag, and not operate.

Grease actuator cables only if you are able to use the grease as a seal AND re-grease them frequent enough to push old grease out to keep the cable clean inside the jacket.

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post #19 of 54 Old 10-24-2008, 06:25 PM
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This is great stuff! Thanks for taking the time! Green for you!

01 Highlander Bluestone Metallic 2.4L pushing 208K
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post #20 of 54 Old 10-25-2008, 12:58 PM
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To my knowledge, there shouldn't be any adjustments to the handbrake underneath the console unless it is extremely bad. Usually the adjustment is made inside the drum.

*** I can't remember if counter-clockwise or clockwise will retract or spread.


#1 Turn the clicker counter-clockwise inside the drum so that shoe is retracted in more. Place the drum will fit on and it should be loose so the drum can slide on and off. (this prevents the drum from sticking on when putting it back on, which is a bitch to get off it on too tight)

#2 Then pull the drum off and turn clicker clockwise 1-2 clicks at a time and refit the drum back on. Do this until the drum fits on just before the snug threshold.

** The only downsize is (from experience) when setting it the way I mentioned causes lock ups during winter, which is a no no. Otherwise this method decreases the amount of pressure when applying brakes = better stopping.

92 Camry 4 cyl 5 Spd

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post #21 of 54 Old 11-11-2008, 01:34 PM
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Canada Part Numbers

Do you happen to have the part number for the shoes from Part Source? I've only been able to locate the shoes from the dealership at a ridiculous price. (everyone sells the hardware kit but no shoes!) I'm working on a 1997 Camry, your DIY is great, thanks for taking the time to post it!
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post #22 of 54 Old 11-11-2008, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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The shoes were Wagner #PAB528. On sale for $34.78 + taxes. Reg. price = $38.65 + taxes. I just walked in to Parts Source and asked them what they had for shoes. These were middle of the line. Neither the cheapest nor the most expensive.

2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 94K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 67K miles
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post #23 of 54 Old 11-12-2008, 11:16 AM
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Canada Thanks

Thanks for the info. I have called two PartSource locations and neither said they carried shoes for camry's and didn't have it in their system. Thanks for the parts number...hopefully this leads them to find them!
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post #24 of 54 Old 01-02-2009, 06:26 PM
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Many Thanks !

dz63, I want to thank you for posting this thread on the rear drum brake job !

I am a somewhat clueful backyard mechanic, but going by the Haynes manual I have for my wife's 2002 Camry , there was no indication that the emergency cable needed to be loosened in order to retract the spring on the cable where it attaches to the secondary shoe/e-brake contraption.

I have something of value (I hope) to add. The passenger side rear drum was not as easily removed as the driver's side, even after I turned the "star wheel adjuster".

I looked at the drum, and there are two (2) shallow drilled and threaded indentations. I found the right size bolts, threaded the bolts in, and the drum popped right off.

Again, thanks for a great DYI, dz63
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post #25 of 54 Old 01-25-2009, 09:50 PM
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Nice tutorial, how does the parking brake end up so bad like that in the first place? Mine is pretty bad I have to pull it almost all the way back, and when my dad was tightening a lug nut with the rear wheel off the ground he accidentally got the wheel free from the brake for a split second.... When me and my dad checked all 4 brakes today the rear drums came right off and it is very clean with no severe rust. Note it's a 93 Camry... If it's really that difficult to fix the parking brake I think I'm gonna leave it up to the Mechanics... Neat tutorial though!

Last edited by AmericanAirFan; 01-26-2009 at 10:27 PM.
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post #26 of 54 Old 01-26-2009, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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AAF - Very good question. My parking brake cable is now loose again. I can pull it up about 8-10 clicks before it engages - exactly the same symptoms before I changed the rear shoes.

Note that I was able to free up the stuck cable by alternating pulling on the cable at the rear drum and then pulling up the parking brake lever...but over the last few months it drifted back to the same problem. I don't know why this is happening.

This is on my list of problems to solve. If I figure it out, I will post back. If you figure it out, please let me know.

Edit: Upon further investigation, I found that both parking brake cables were binding. The cables were getting stuck when pulled up and not returning to the "home" position.

After replacing both cables, I cut the old ones apart to see where the cables were getting hung up and found that it was at the point where the cable passes through the “white metal” part that is bolted to drum backing plate. I suspect that the “white metal” part corroded inside and this eventually caused the cable to seize. After replacing both brake cables, the "loose" parking brake cable phenomenon disappeared.

2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 94K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 67K miles

Last edited by dz63; 06-25-2010 at 11:48 AM. Reason: added Edit note.
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post #27 of 54 Old 01-26-2009, 10:26 PM
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I doubt I'll figure it out before you as I won't be taking it to the shop to get a new clutch and such until July. When I get my car fixed up before I go to college the parking brake is on the list of things I want done with my car while at the shop, but I'll ask what he had to do to correctly fix it when I get it fixed. Best of luck with finding out how to fix it though.
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post #28 of 54 Old 05-16-2009, 08:22 PM
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This thread is money!

Thanks for posting all the pics - helped me adjust my e-brake...
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post #29 of 54 Old 02-18-2010, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camry_VVT View Post
dz63,

I looked at the drum, and there are two (2) shallow drilled and threaded indentations. I found the right size bolts, threaded the bolts in, and the drum popped right off.

Again, thanks for a great DYI, dz63
Exactly! Before reading your post, I wondered about those 2 threaded indentations - as I was having trouble getting a rear drum off, and the Haynes and Chilton manuals were no help - and wrong at times!. And sure enough, I too just discovered that threading the correct size (?) bolts in them pops a stubborn rear drum right off my 96 Camry! (Given the star adjuster isn't forcing the brake shoes out too tight).
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post #30 of 54 Old 06-25-2010, 08:24 AM
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Thinking about tackling this project in the near future, as my shoes are most likely original at 171k. As old as the last comment is on here, I thought I'd throw something out. I know some cars have self-adjusting rear brakes and if you brake hard while in reverse the star wheel will tighten up the drums. Does the camry do this? That would help the people with loose e-brakes.
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