so today, after a long time of preparation, I was able to tackle on the custom fitment of the TRD SC on the 3VZ motor with the help of Tony the Tiger and Eye8pussies.
With me and eye8pussies wrenching away and tony the tiger as backup for custom work, we were invincible.
I'm going to list what needs to be done to make it fit. it's not easy...it's not hard.
90% of the wrenching were done in about 5 hours with no experience. discovering problems as we go and finding solutions as we go. after all this is the first time it's being done on a Camry, we are the first pioneers so it took more time.
the rest 10% of the custom stuff is the most time consuming due to custom welds, adapters etc.
but tony is awesome with stuff like that, so no worries there.
i'll be updating this thread with more info and pictures later, it's already dark and i took some pictures with a flashlight but i'll retake more pics later.
so i'll write up the problems and solutions in a list. read at your will!
the 1MZ alternator is completely different from the 3VZ.
the alternator bolt position is different...so the idler plates won't even be able to be fitted on the car.
the 3VZ engine also sits about 1/2 inch further to the passenger side so there's not much room.
cut the idler plate off completely in a straight cut so the alternator bolt hole is deleted. you cannot utilize the alternator bolt anymore, but it'll be just fine. if you really want it to attach to the alt bolt a custom bracket needs to be make.
the idler plate assembly sits too low on the brackets that supports the dogbone bracket. it will not clear the lower engine bay sidewall.
a spacer for the bracket is needed. all it is is a thin piece of aluminum with the right holes drilled at the end. the stock support bracket can be used as a template.
about 3/8 of an inch is needed...no exact measurement is needed as long as it makes the bolt heads to clear the sidewall.
the uppermost pulley that has a bolt going through it as well as the dogbone...the pulley is positioned too low for the nut to clear the timing belt plastic cover.
relocate the pulley by drilling another hole about 5/8th of an inch direct on top of the original hole or top left of the original hole.
the dogbone is miles off
cut and weld.
the side 90degree bend bracket is miles off from attaching itself to the bold that holds down the supercharger manifold.
make a custom bracket or leave it as is....but then instead of 4 mounting points for the idler plates, now there are 2. dogbone mounting point is not counted
cold start injector needs to be deleted. the fuel line going into it is a hardline
weld it shut
IAC valve doesn't have a place to go into.
forget the adapter from woodsport...we were ingenius enough to make the stock EGR port on the TRD SC as the inlet for the air for idling.
we remove mounted the IAC valve and ran a line with some custom fittings and adapters. beautiful!
PCV valve has clearance issues with the TRD SC
turn the PCV valve 180 degrees facing toward the front of the car, for now we put a breather on it, but i was told that i needs an vacuum line to run properly at WOT.
things that fit like a wonder:
- supercharger assembly! the only thing that doesn't fit is one of the mounting points that's behind the inlet. it's off by an inch and at a different angle. a custom bracket can be made easily.
- TB is the same pattern
- the nosedrive lines up perfectly with the rest of the pulleys
- the belt length is perfect.
other things to be done:
the hard line for the brake booster can be deleted now.
all the lines that go into the IAC can be blocked off, the coolant passages can be bypassed with a fitting.
TB coolant lines can be bypassed now as well.
VSV for the ACIS can be deleted now. vacuum lines will need to be reworked and some plugged up.
the vacuum canister for the ACIS can be deleted now.
after exactly 13 hours of wrenching. i got to drive my car home. i am so worn out that i am about to pass out.
it's been a warm day and i feel like i'm starved and dehydrating.
but it's all worth it because the car runs perfectly! everything and everything!
the car started the first try.....but then the fuel rail was leaking a lil :p...but just wasn't tight enough.
and then with a little minor tweaking, it was running like a champ!
the car has yet to receive a proper tune though, so i didn't even bother having fun with the car....i took the car home reving under 2.5k cuz the wideband readings looked a little leaner than i liked it to be...so tomorrow i'll just richen things up a little.
i still have the PCV valve to hook up properly to. I run a breather out of it right now but i think it's supposed to be hooked up to a vacuum....
FPR needs to be installed, but i'll need some earl type fittings that i haven't figured out to to install and have it work properly.
with FPR and PCV valve figured out, i'll be able to throw on the 6psi soon and get a proper tune. sweeeeet!
now time for pictures!
spacer for the idler plate need two of them
90% of the wrenching was done by nightfall, started 4pm
see how the dog bone is miles away from fitting properly?
vacuum coolant hose mess!
see how the PCV valve is touching the S/C...but it sits right inside the grove if it's turned 180 degrees. so it'll work for now
the bolt holding lower idler pulleys clear just by a hair when the spacers are used.
the final product with the cut and rewelded dogbone. after the weld it looked like a broken leg.....or penis lol
this needs to be done with very high eyesight accuracy..not an easy weld, but nothing Tony couldn't handle
adapter for the EGR valve. this is threaded in the middle to be able to take in a fitting that is a 90 degree bend...and attach a hose to it so we can relocated the IAC valve
IAC valve adapter! a thing of a beauty. tony didn't tell me it was still hot ...i touched it and it burnt my finger
EGR port is now being used for IAC valve outlet
the dogbone before it got broken
PCV valve clearance
TB back on...all the custom relocation done, intake attached...ready to crank
last pic of the night, final product. done annnnd done!