2AZ-FE Engine swap adventure - Page 6 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #76 of 108 Old 07-19-2018, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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7/19/18

Almost there....almost there.... (if anyone heard Star Wars in that, you are amazing)

I got the air box assembly in, and the cowl attached. Filled the power steering fluid, and attached the wiper arms. The bolts for the heat shield are MIA. I am almost certain I put them with the manifold, since they bolt on that, so maybe they are somewhere on the ground. I will look more tomorrow/this weekend. And the brace for the battery is MIA as well. No idea where that damn thing disappeared to, or if it was missing when I got the car from my daughter. The battery came out first thing, so been awhile. Maybe it was gone prior.

Here is the $&@%$#($# radiator hose clamp drama I continue to have:



I gave in and paid $40 for the OEM cable style clamp at PepBoys. But this piece of ^#%$#(@!()#@#& clamp just absolutely would not play ball. The tab was bent down and could not squeeze shut enough. I could not get it over that lip on the radiator connection, and the clamp finally failed. Does not look like any damage to the radiator, which is plastic (that is brilliant). I will know when it runs.

So, need to still build a tool to hold the pulley and then tighten the bolt, do these dumb hoses and fill the radiator, put on the serp belt, and I can fire it up.

I called KarKing Auto today and talked to the Man there, George. I wanted to know if there was anything about their engines I needed to prep before startup. Nope. They use an assembly lube on the cams and such to ensure there is no dry start (earlier in this thread there is a question about any lube on the cams - I checked and did see some of this lube they said they put, so it is not dry where it needs to be). I asked if I needed to disconnect the fuel and let the engine cycle oil, and he said nope. Just make sure I have oil in the engine (I do) and of course coolant (I will) and fire it up.

Sooo close now.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #77 of 108 Old 07-20-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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7/20/18





Oh Yeah!!! Engine cranked up first try. So far running smooth. I have not yet tightened the crank pulley bolt, so only ran it for a moment, but no issues. No CELs (at least no check engine light came on). All the fluids are in. I'll keep my eye on the coolant once the thermostat opens up and sucks in more. Smells like it is burning in. All kinds of greasy finger smudges I am sure as well.


This is all I have left to do:
Torque crank pulley bolt (133)
Torque axle nuts (225)
Install new hood struts
Charge AC system


I am so having a nice glass of bourbon (well, rye actually) right now! "A Midwinter Night's Dram" by High West Distillery.
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Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #78 of 108 Old 07-20-2018, 10:04 PM
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Those radiator clamps are pointless. The intake on my 2004 SE has those clamps. Never could get it in the 'lock' position without either 1) pinching my fingers or 2) dropping my pliers.

I just like the old fashion tab (without locking) design....those OEM ones are awesome.

Glad it started without a hitch! I finished my IS tranmission swap earlier this week....went perfect with no extra bolts or stuff blowing up!

'85 Camry DLX 162K
'87 Cressida 78K
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'98 Camry LE AE V6 228K
'06 IS250 + sport pkg 153K
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post #79 of 108 Old 07-20-2018, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingdom934 View Post
Those radiator clamps are pointless. The intake on my 2004 SE has those clamps. Never could get it in the 'lock' position without either 1) pinching my fingers or 2) dropping my pliers.

I just like the old fashion tab (without locking) design....those OEM ones are awesome.

Glad it started without a hitch! I finished my IS tranmission swap earlier this week....went perfect with no extra bolts or stuff blowing up!
Nice! Congrats! I had no excess bolts (lol). I was missing my heat shield bolts, but (4) M8-1.25 x 25mm from O'Reilley fixed that. For now I used two screw clamps on the upper hose. WHen the OEM clamp comes in I will change it.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #80 of 108 Old 07-21-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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7/21/18

Spent today focusing on the interior. Living in Abq, the car had been broken into several times. A few times some piece of sh*t tore up the console area to tear out the backup cam (which was then deposited in the door pocket - go figure). And to avoid embarrassing my daughter I did not take before pictures of the interior. I removed the seats and power cleaned them and been working on the carpet. At some point she spilled at least an entire dish washing soap container into both the passenger seat and the back seat bench. She had this mega sized container in the car and I guess it tipped and oozed out. That is fun. I covered the sensor connectors under the passenger seat with bags, and spent about half an hour each on the bench seat and passenger seat with my power washer. That soap is concentrate, and man does it suds. I'd plow it with the wand, then scrub to try to remove excess, then wash, scrub, wash, etc. Finally after about 30 minutes it stopped suds-ing. Then I used my new Bissel Green Machine I bought https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...mpaign=8175035 to hit the carpets. Load of hot sweaty work (it's only in the upper 90's).

Stopped for the day as my boy and I are off to a minor league ball game tonight - Albuquerque Isotopes. Picking up some buds and having a dude night. Beer, hot dogs, baseball. Great Saturday night. I'll hit the interior more tomorrow, and see what to do about that crank pulley bolt.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #81 of 108 Old 07-21-2018, 09:33 PM
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Not sure why Toyota went with that type. Look like they suck. There are other kinds of self locking clamps that are more reliable.

Constant tension clamps are hard to find. Here are some. The min diameter of the largest should fit borderline. I guess in most cases they last so long and therefore don't require changing.

Sold by Clips and Fasteners. I see 4 different sizes they carry. Search "constant tension band". The 1-15/32" - 1-3/4" one has 5 to a package. $11.69+shipping. Measure first.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/

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post #82 of 108 Old 07-22-2018, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled all the seats yesterday and did that big cleaning. I guess I put too much of the cleaner in the machine, as I ran regular clean water over it, and over it, and over it, and would still get soap sucking up (on the driver seat which never had the dish soap spilled onto it). After awhile I gave up and went ahead and reinstalled all the seats today. Water still comes in dirty when running it over the seat surfaces, but I may hit them again later on. Maybe. Some stains just won't come out, but the combo of all the elbow grease, Green machine, and such did lift a lot of the stains up, or lessened them. Cleaned the interior a bit as well.

It is all down to getting this crank pulley bolt tightened. Going to see what I can maneuver with the dealership to avoid buying the tool or making one. It still fires up and idles just fine.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #83 of 108 Old 07-22-2018, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Later...

Found the battery holder and heat shield screws. They were the first things I removed, and I forgot I placed them into a drawer. No bolts left over, none missing. Successful swap!

Pulled up my tracker on work to Salma. Her odo is at 240,872 as she awaits final bolt tightening and to come down off the stands. Some of the work:

10/5/14 - 176,529: Replaced both cv axles
11/15/14 - 178,819: Replaced rear struts (KYB shocks, retained springs)
12/12/14 - 176,391: Did the transmission drain and fill to attempt to get new fluid in the system. Decided to wait until warmer weather to do a home flush
6/14/15 - 186,933: finished installing transmission that came off a salvage, due to trans dying around April. Replaced driver side Duralast cv axle with NAPA
6/19/15 - 187,000: rebuilt driver side brake piston boot (had a tear)
6/21/15 - 187,246: flushed power steering fluid
1/30/16 - 201,760: Replaced passenger side LCA, LBJ, engine mount (slid on ice and curbed it, destroying the LCA)
2/27/16 - 203,000: Replaced driver side LCA, LBJ, engine mount
2/27/16 - 203,000: Replaced front struts w/ KYB shocks (retained original springs)

Somewhere after this I gave it to my daughter, and maybe a year and a half ago replaced the radiator
7/20/18 - 240,872: Pulled engine, put in rebuilt


I bought the car March 2008 with maybe 8 miles on her. Ate up a lot of road in the 8 years I had her. Know her inside and out by now for sure.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #84 of 108 Old 07-24-2018, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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I made a tool to get that crank pulley held. It is amazing: search on how to hold the crank pulley and all you really get are tons of pages and videos on how to remove the pulley. Virtually nothing on how to install one, other than someone saying "install it" or saying something about using the OEM tool. No one rents anything that will work, and when I searched to buy a tool many I saw did not look like they would fit this pulley design. I don't believe I got to the torque spec, as my torque wrench never clicked, but I did tighten it. I may ask a shop to tighten it to spec.




That's a 1 1/4 floor flange (anything smaller would not work) and a 1/2" x 24" black pipe. I got some M8-1.25 x 45mm bolts and nuts, and widened the holes in the flange with my drill to fit the bolts. Then drilled a hole through the pipe to bolt to the flange. It lined up fine when I put one hole in the pipe and secured it, then placed the tool onto the pulley to make sure I could line things up. Used the next hole in the flange to set the pipe. Oriented it so the lip went into the pulley. The other holes matched up with the bottom two slots in the pulley, which looks like this:



It all fit really interesting - I fit the tool behind the knuckle, and the bottom rested inside the wheel well, pressed up against the top of the well. The lower bolts caught the leading edges of the bottom pulley slots, and I could torque the pulley crank bolt. The thing would slip when putting a large amount of torque on it, but it did turn the bolt more. Anyway, seems OK for now.

Ran the car around the block a few times. VERY quiet engine now. I had both front windows down, and it was almost silent in idle. Idles around 600-700 rpm, no shudder. LOADS of pick up and go. Feels like when it was brand new (which in a sense it is). I didn't time 0-60 (will do so sometime this week) but man it got there quick. Nothing to cause an alarm - smooth, full, power. No shuddering at idle even after running hard.

I did almost freak out at the gas station. Since it was almost empty I wanted the first gas to be Chevron. When filling up thought I would check the oil, since I had not looked at the dipstick since putting the oil in (Mobile 1 5-20 synthetic). I thought it has circulated a bit, so now is a good time to read it. Could see nothing on the dipstick. I touched it and my finger came away with a sheen of oil. Wiped the stick, put it back in and out, could see nothing on the dipstick. Again a sheen of oil when I touched it. I figured the engine is so clean, the oil so new, you can't see it on the stick. Started the car and the check engine light and oil pressure light came on. Crapola. Shut it off, ran inside and grabbed a shitty 5-30 oil the gas station had and put the quart in. Still cannot see anything on the stick, still get some oil on my finger tip, lights went off. When I did the oil I put in whatever the manual stated for the new filter (can't recall off hand amongst all these cars). So I am thinking since the engine is new it needed more than the norm. Maybe. Have not had any lights come on except that one moment. Will keep my eye on it.

And there is absolutely no leak - not on the ground, not under the car, not in the engine bay. So I know no oil found its way outside the engine!

EDIT:

When the stick is wiped no oil gets on my finger tip. I can feel oil up above the fill line, where it would be with an extra quart in it (when it was using oil, I would often put in an extra quart to keep it going longer). So, it is just super clean. Wow.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #85 of 108 Old 07-24-2018, 10:19 PM
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I got me one of these for the camshaft sprockets and the harmonic balancer (crank pulley)

Lisle 38220 camshaft adjustment tool



About $24 online or $40 at a local auto parts store. Not he most robust tool, but certainly good enough to hold down and turn about 20 revolutions at about 70-80 foot pounds to reattach a PT Cruiser harmonic balancer that needs 100 foot-pounds for final torque.



Or you can get one of these from Autozone as a loaner (pay $45 but get a full refund when you return it)



I've seen some people pound it in with a plastic dead blow hammer and drive it almost all the rest of the way with an impact wrench but I'd be afraid of going too far with that and you don't want to put 300 ft-lbs of torque on that bolt.
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post #86 of 108 Old 07-25-2018, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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I'm surprised that Lisle tool worked. I have not see reviews of that brand, but many tools like it seem to have issues at the torque value, as they are really built to be cam sprocket tools or the like - much lower torque values. A lot of the same kind of design people complain that the bars bend, the pins snap... some even say they ruined their pulley and had to replace it. The Camry claims it needs 133 ft lbs, which is a bit. Not clear how a dead blow hammer will turn a 19mm bolt, but I tried to use my Kobalt impact wrench, which claims to have 350 ft lbs of torque at the top end, and it would not even turn it one hair. Worthless to put anything on with, great to take things off with.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #87 of 108 Old 07-25-2018, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
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Not clear how a dead blow hammer will turn a 19mm bolt,

Fast forward to 3:35 and watch the next 10 seconds. Note: impact wrench is strongly not recommended.
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post #88 of 108 Old 07-25-2018, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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https://youtu.be/01zAueVBHbI?t=3m35s

Fast forward to 3:35 and watch the next 10 seconds. Note: impact wrench is strongly not recommended.
Ah, I see. I had no issues seating the pulley - it is all about holding it stationary while trying to torque the bolt down. My pulley pushed on easily. Came off easily too - had no need to do the pulley pull route.

Camry Mod

THIS

'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #89 of 108 Old 07-25-2018, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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This is how clean this new engine is:



There is oil on that stick. This after running the engine 9 miles. This is what initially freaked me out: you would think there is no oil in there. You can see previous swipes on the napkin, and if turning the stick in just the right light you get the sheen. Amazing.
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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #90 of 108 Old 07-26-2018, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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7/26/18

Took her out to the dealer to look at the oil cap gasket. I bought a new gasket, but it looked odd to me. Turns out the old gasket was still embedded down in there - I think part of the original one had shorn off. ?? Anyway, got the new gasket seated down properly. I asked the service dept. what they would charge to torque down the crank pulley bolt. They said it would take half hour labor, as there are "lots of things" to get to the bolt. Don't think they knew I just pulled the whole engine and know the only things in front of it are the tire and the splash shield. Anyway, $65 plus tax, so I am getting close to the cost of buying the real tool. More than if you count the cost of my improvised tool. I'll just hit it with my tool again.

On the way home there was a loud POP kind of explosion. I thought great, something in the engine blew. Perfect. Then I heard the air escape hiss and saw the TPMS light come on. Whew - just a blown tire. Rear driver side blew out - inner side. The rears are down past safety limits, so new tires were on the list anyway. So I got to change a tire on the side of the road to boot.


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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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