OK sports fans - first I did the all too fun u250e tranny swap: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...adventure.html
. I gifted Salma to my daughter about two years ago. Oil consumption problem was in effect, and she did not keep her eye on it. Engine is now seized, so once again she sits in my driveway, waiting for some serious TLC. (I have a post on here about naming the Camry after Salma Hayek, because why not).
I will be buying a rebuilt engine and swapping it out. You may want to get your popcorn handy, gonna be a hell of a ride. Welcome to the show.
This is not a DIY on how to do this job properly. Since this engine is seized, and I have ran into various issues in the adventure, I am taking a destructive approach, which is destroying (further) the existing engine. If you needed to swap the core, this approach would axe that as the bad engine is getting fubar-ed big time.
To help people interested in doing this kind of thing, I will keep updating this first post to include the parts needed to do the job.
Asides from the obvious lubes, rags, and such, I will list here the things you really need to replace on the tear down and rebuild (gaskets, etc.). I will include the OEM part numbers.
Valve cover gasket - 112130P010
PCV valve - 1220428030 (might as well change it due to the crap in the system)
Exhaust manifold gasket - 171730P020
Fuel injector ring (4 of them) - 9030107037
Intake manifold gasket - 171770H020
Throttle body gasket - 222710D051
New tools/fun stuff bought due to this project
30 Gallon, 175 PSI air compressor (5.3 CFM @ 90 PSI)
1 ton engine lift - RETURNED
. The HF 1 ton does not have a long enough boom to pick and place the engine
1/2" air ratchet
750 lb. engine stand (already have a 1/2 ton - will place the old engine on this for part removal)
60 degree offset metric box ends (12 point)
Buy a lot. Then buy some more.
Shallow and deep socket (metric) - especially 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm.
O2 sensor socket, or adapter to do the same
Extensions for socket wrench
Ratcheting box end wrenches (10, 12, 14, 17mm for sure)
60 degree offset boxend wrenches (10, 12 and 14mm for sure)
Needle nose pliers
Floor jack, jack stands
18/24" breaker bar
Small flat screw driver or similar to help pry stuck hoses
Radiator hose clamp pliers
Drain pan for coolant
Drain pan for oil
Blue threadlocker (small)
Red threadlocker (small)
Misc for project
(2) M12 - 1.25 x 80 bolts - to connect the engine stand to the engine body
(2) M10 - 1.25 x 75 bolts - to connect the engine stand to the engine body
(4) - (8) washers for the above bolts to help stand the bolts off some to fit properly
Chain or whatever you prefer to use for hoisting. I used 5 feet of chain rated at 1,950 lbs
Various cleaning fluids (de-greaser, throttle body, MAF, brake)
Zip lock type bags to put in bolts and such to keep things organized - also handy to cover exhaust openings and such
Summary for those looking to swap their 2AZ-FE
I'll summarize critical elements here to skip out the various rabbit holes the thread takes.
Avoid the Harbor Freight 1 ton lift. Seems like a fine enough lift, but it will not reach the engine to pick and place it, without removing the bumper. Even then it looks like it may be about 2 or so inches too short to do a nice vertical lift.
If you are swapping your engine due to it being seized, you may have (most likely will have) issues removing the torque converter from the drive plate, as you will not be able to turn the engine. Make this a first priority to resolve.
If you just can't turn the engine then you have a few choices: remove the trans with the engine and decouple on the floor (meaning you remove the torque converter from the trans, still attached to the drive plate), elevate the engine up and decouple with the trans still in the bay, or remove the upper oil pan to try to free up whatever is blocking the movement (rod or whatever). I am going the latter route as I do not want to pull the TC out of the trans and then try to unbolt it from the drive plate with the engine hanging or on the floor.
In my case, something caused piston 4 to make contact, at the connecting rod cap, with the upper oil pan. I believe this piston was the one that dropped its bearing shell halves into the pan. This collision caused the piston to deform a bit and then hit the side wall (the connecting rod cap bolt) of the upper oil pan, which blocked the crank from being able to turn. I did not have a welded piston, or a thrown rod, or a bent valve keeping the piston from traveling all the way up. Piston 4 would not clear the side of the engine wall. Due to an investigation of my valves (which resulted in an exhaust valve on piston 1 and an intake valve on piston 4 to drop into the piston bore) also keeping the pistons from traveling all the way up, I had to remove the upper oil pan and the head. I then had to remove the connecting rod caps and then push the pistons up out of the head to clear the crank. Then I could rotate and remove the drive plate from the torque converter.
You will need to drain your coolant, engine oil, and trans fluid. For the trans fluid, capture it separately and record how much came out. The pan holds a set amount, but when you pull your cv axles capture anything extra that comes out there and make sure to put back in the same amount. You'll need to pull the passenger axle, and if you need to lower or raise the trans assembly should consider pulling the driver side as well. This is an excellent time to replace the oil seals there if needed. Oil Seal Type T is what Toyota calls them.
The power steering pump is a bastard to free up. You need to lower the engine downward to get access to the two bolts to free the pump from the rear of the engine (going through the pulley). Alternately you can disconnect the lines from the pump and pull the pump with the engine. If so, then capture that fluid and replace when back together.
You will have to purge the AC system, as you will need to remove the lines from the compressor. There are EPA rules about this, so consider that. Also means when back together you need to work the AC system to get it back operational (put in new oil to replace what was lost in the purge as well as the gas). To DIY it you need a vacuum and a manifold set.