2009 Camry SE Mod and Fix 'er Up Thread - Page 3 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #31 of 118 Old 12-12-2018, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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I'm in a lull, a mod doldrum if you will, until it gets a bit warmer (18 F or so in the mornings) or I gather the cash up for the next thing. With Christmas here that is the money sink for now. For Christmas my gift will either be a remote start system or a new HU. The HU will be more $, but only about double as I do not plan to go nuts. Half the cost is all the crap you need to add to keep the JBL amp and steering wheel controls. The plan is to use my Christmas break from work to install whatever I get for my present. I'll DIY it with lots of step-step and pics.

But I have made a big decision. This car is paid off. I have put the rebuilt engine in it, I put a younger tranny in it, I have given it a lot of TLC. I am getting 27/28 mpg driving to work. To jump up to a new car that would get me about 10 more mpg means I drop anywhere from $19k to $30k depending on the make, model, so on. That 10 mpg jump only saves me about $462 a year at current low gas prices, and if gas gets back to over $3/gal only about $700 a year. Pffft. Why drop 20k or more to save 700 bucks a year? ROI is like 28+ years on that, assuming static conditions and such. If I put $5,000 into this Camry that would be a LOT of electronic and physical improvements. Plus a lot of DIY fun!

So, no new car for me. Salma will keep getting some nice upgrades. Paint, upholstery, electronics. And since I will do all the work, ka-ching!

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #32 of 118 Old 12-12-2018, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SFCamry View Post
I'm in a lull, a mod doldrum if you will, until it gets a bit warmer (18 F or so in the mornings) or I gather the cash up for the next thing. With Christmas here that is the money sink for now. For Christmas my gift will either be a remote start system or a new HU. The HU will be more $, but only about double as I do not plan to go nuts. Half the cost is all the crap you need to add to keep the JBL amp and steering wheel controls. The plan is to use my Christmas break from work to install whatever I get for my present. I'll DIY it with lots of step-step and pics.

But I have made a big decision. This car is paid off. I have put the rebuilt engine in it, I put a younger tranny in it, I have given it a lot of TLC. I am getting 27/28 mpg driving to work. To jump up to a new car that would get me about 10 more mpg means I drop anywhere from $19k to $30k depending on the make, model, so on. That 10 mpg jump only saves me about $462 a year at current low gas prices, and if gas gets back to over $3/gal only about $700 a year. Pffft. Why drop 20k or more to save 700 bucks a year? ROI is like 28+ years on that, assuming static conditions and such. If I put $5,000 into this Camry that would be a LOT of electronic and physical improvements. Plus a lot of DIY fun!

So, no new car for me. Salma will keep getting some nice upgrades. Paint, upholstery, electronics. And since I will do all the work, ka-ching!
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500ILX...-iLX-F309.html
This is the only headunit I am willing to put in my Camry because I think it looks the best next to OEM and OEM navigation. Any other single or double DIN unit just looks too ugly next to that... barren light grey/tan bezel. While I would be willing to buy it, it will be the very very last thing I would get because the cost is not worth it compared to wheels, ground effects, and potential repaint/repair scratches.

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post #33 of 118 Old 12-12-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Vangm25 View Post
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500ILX...-iLX-F309.html
This is the only headunit I am willing to put in my Camry because I think it looks the best next to OEM and OEM navigation. Any other single or double DIN unit just looks too ugly next to that... barren light grey/tan bezel. While I would be willing to buy it, it will be the very very last thing I would get because the cost is not worth it compared to wheels, ground effects, and potential repaint/repair scratches.
Pricey! The one I am thinking is a bit under 1/4 of that cost. It only needs to do a good job 2 hours a day, basically. Road trips will be the 4Runner. I set my bar lower: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX...-DDX375BT.html

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #34 of 118 Old 01-03-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it's in the 20's out, but I am off for another four days so why not!



Starting today or tomorrow I will take out the OEM JBL HU and put in this new one. I fondly remember the days when installing a stereo involved twisting together a handful of wires. Now the damn interfaces and control modules and harness gear cost more than the HU itself.

It is rather cold out but I will attempt to take pics along the way to document the swap.

----LATER----

Whew! This is some complex stuff. I've swapped a transmission and an engine in this baby, but this radio/amp interface/steering wheel interface setup is pretty intense. Spent the day at TIS, got EVERY wire diagram for this '09 Camry as well as my '15 4Runner. That was several hours. And DL'ed all audio/visual FSM material for the Camry. Then researched and downloaded all instruction sheets for the steering wheel control (SWC) interface and the stereo-amp interface. Printed everything out. Finally laid out all the components and plugged in harness materials, dry ran what wires to connect to what wires, etc. Think I know what I need to do.

Here is what I plan: I will take video of the entire process (trim removal, dry fitting, testing, soldering, etc.). Then I plan to buy new video editing software and make a big DIY video on it. That will take some weeks, but it will be worth it.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #35 of 118 Old 01-04-2019, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well, no video, but I have pics and will post it all up when 100% done.

I got the HU wired up and tested today. Sounds great. Tested backup cam feature, radio, iPod connection. Will test DVD and BT phone tomorrow. I still have to setup the steering wheel control module tomorrow, then button it all up.

Also, since I bought my wife a pricey anniversary gift (ring) she wanted me to go ahead and order my push button start/remote start kit So I just did:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF1N314/?coliid=IWSC4CQAKDWS0&colid=OBIPKQSZL0M4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IF1N314/?coliid=IWSC4CQAKDWS0&colid=OBIPKQSZL0M4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Not an expensive one, and I will work to make putting back in my ignition cylinder as painless as possible. That project I will research heavily and figure out how to set it up properly. I don't care about the alarm, but this was one of the only kits I could find that had both push button and remote start, avoiding two kits with different install instructions. Will see how that goes later!

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #36 of 118 Old 01-05-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Got the steering wheel control module installed today, but the buttons are all moved around: the off hook is VOL -, the on hook is VOL +, etc. The button programming function is not working so I will have to call tech support to see what's what. I am waiting on my Tesa cloth tape to come in later today. Tomorrow I will tape up wires and then post up the pics and step-step on this install. tested my phone via BT (after running the mic wire down the A pillar and all that) - worked fine. Vastly better than the OEM BT phone function.

A preview of the madness:


Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #37 of 118 Old 01-06-2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SFCamry View Post
Got the steering wheel control module installed today, but the buttons are all moved around: the off hook is VOL -, the on hook is VOL +, etc. The button programming function is not working so I will have to call tech support to see what's what.

Would you be able to depin and repin the connectors based on what the buttons currently do and should do? That may be easier than dealing with tech support.
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post #38 of 118 Old 01-06-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Would you be able to depin and repin the connectors based on what the buttons currently do and should do? That may be easier than dealing with tech support.
From looking at the Toyota wire diagram, there are only three wires that come into play for all those buttons: ground, SW1 and SW2. The steering wheel pad connects SEEK and VOL to SW1, then MODE, On/Off HOOK and SPEAK to SW2. I think a different impedance is sent down the wire and the factory HU does what the impedance is on that wire (i.e. volume up or go on hook, etc.). The aftermarket SWC module is supposed to do the same thing and send the signal back to the aftermarket HU. So there is no pins you can swap, there are only the three wires you connect to the car (ground, SW1 and SW2). I tried swapping them to see if the buttons would change but they did not go back to normal. I will see what else I can do, but my kit is a "universal", not Toyota exclusive so there ya go. For now I have all the functions, just on different buttons (well, MODE does not seem to work).

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #39 of 118 Old 01-06-2019, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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JVC HU installed! Since it is such a long post, and since people may want to reference just it for their swaps, I put it as a separate thread:

Swap JBL Stereo with Aftermarket Stereo





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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #40 of 118 Old 01-07-2019, 09:28 AM
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From looking at the Toyota wire diagram, there are only three wires that come into play for all those buttons: ground, SW1 and SW2. The steering wheel pad connects SEEK and VOL to SW1, then MODE, On/Off HOOK and SPEAK to SW2. I think a different impedance is sent down the wire and the factory HU does what the impedance is on that wire (i.e. volume up or go on hook, etc.). The aftermarket SWC module is supposed to do the same thing and send the signal back to the aftermarket HU. So there is no pins you can swap, there are only the three wires you connect to the car (ground, SW1 and SW2). I tried swapping them to see if the buttons would change but they did not go back to normal. I will see what else I can do, but my kit is a "universal", not Toyota exclusive so there ya go. For now I have all the functions, just on different buttons (well, MODE does not seem to work).
Ah, that does make sense based on the limited connections through the clock spring. So the steering wheel control module seems to be converting inbound signal properly, just sending outbound signals down the wrong wires on the head unit side? Any re-pinning possibility on that end of the adapter or is that impedance based, too? I'm just grasping at straws here, never done a head unit swap myself...

EDIT: Just hopped over to your full writeup, I'd guess it'd be very hard if not impossible to repin a 3.5mm jack LOL... Back to calling tech support I guess. Or just dealing with it as you seem content to do. Great writeup by the way!

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post #41 of 118 Old 01-07-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, that does make sense based on the limited connections through the clock spring. So the steering wheel control module seems to be converting inbound signal properly, just sending outbound signals down the wrong wires on the head unit side? Any re-pinning possibility on that end of the adapter or is that impedance based, too? I'm just grasping at straws here, never done a head unit swap myself...

EDIT: Just hopped over to your full writeup, I'd guess it'd be very hard if not impossible to repin a 3.5mm jack LOL... Back to calling tech support I guess. Or just dealing with it as you seem content to do. Great writeup by the way!
Judging from the result, I would think the wires are crossed. The EWD states VOL is on SW1 and Hook is on SW2. Mine is giving me VOL from the HOOK buttons. When I swapped them prior I did not notice they went to normal, but I may not have reset the unit properly. Of course I will have to remove the HU now to get to the connectors. Sigh.

So yes, I am getting all the right signals (except MODE which I need to figure out), just on the wrong buttons. But the Universal aspect of this may not be internally mapping it right. I can't re-pin that as it is programming (assignment based). The unit has a re-assign function that was not working properly, so that is going to be the main thrust of the call. The 3.5mm jack is what the unit sends the final resultant command back to the HU through. On this JVC there is also a single wire which does the same thing (ground is handled separately). Apparently JVC (Kenwood) makes a device to supposedly wire into the main junction just like the AXXESS kit does, but with just the 3.5mm jack and three wires (ground, SW1 and SW2). I would be interested if that really worked. IN my case I just used the single wire and an adapter on the 3.5mm jack that broke the signal back out to two wires.

Using the handy TIS info (measuring the wire across ground with the button press):

VOL + is "approx" 1k Ohm resistance.
VOL - is "approx" 3.1k Ohm
SEEK + is 0 - 2.5 Ohms
SEEK - is "approx" 0.3 Ohms
No switch is "Approx" 100k Ohms
MODE is 0 - 2.5 Ohms (intersting as this is the same as VOL -, but on the different wire)
ON HOOK is "approx" 0.3k Ohms
OFF HOOK is "Approx" 1k Ohms

VOL and SEEK are on SW1, MODE and HOOK are on SW2. Adding in the splice hardware and disconnect hardware added resistance to the circuit, and to make the ground circuit work you add a ground wire which adds some length of 16 AWG wire, but I am not sure it added enough to fubar the values. What I can do is test the resistance of each button press with my setup and see if they are in the right ranges. But again I will need to remove the HU to get to the points. A weekend project.

And thanks!

Camry Mod

THIS

'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #42 of 118 Old 01-08-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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This came in today:



The kit comes in a nice hinged box that has magnets for closure. Sturdy box!



You get two fobs, a sales business card and thank you kind of note.

Removing that tray you get to the goodies:





Alarm horn, interface, wire harnesses, the push button, a lock relay, PKE antennas, and arguably the most important element: the instructions. I have only glanced at them so far but seems OK. Wire diagrams with pin out, photos, illustrations. We shall see.

Since these Camry's have the immobilizers, you need the immobilizer kit. I went low tech - the kind you put a spare key in. I have a "valet" key that I have kept for all these years, no fob in it, will use that.



Now to study and research the heck out of it and prep to install it. That will be a project...

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4


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post #43 of 118 Old 01-08-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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TWO HOURS LATER (queue Sponge Bob music)

The instructions for the kit is pretty good. Seems pretty straight forward. The immobilizer bypass is a tad more dodgy (different company) but again some simple wiring. I think I can dry fit and test all this during this weekend, if we don't get pummeled by snow (which is possible). I am going to build my damn car port this Spring if it is the last thing I do.

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #44 of 118 Old 01-11-2019, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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I fixed my steering wheel control issue on my new HU. I posted about it on the radio install thread as it relates to that. Basically, solder instead of taps.

Got my 10' runs of stranded 8 AWG wire tonight (red and black). The 100A bus bar for power and 100A bus bar for ground should come in soon. Also got my Molex pin crimper in tonight from Amazon. The plan is to run the 8 AWG from the battery to under the center console where there is all this empty space. Use one of my relays I posted about early in this thread. Connect the battery wire to the relay, a trigger wire off an ACC line (I'll use one of the power ports down there that I have already tapped), then run the relay 12VDC to the bus bar. The relay is 30A, 8 AWG gives you 50A, so all set for lower power projects. I'll have a power and ground bar, and with my 2-pin Molex connectors will custom up harnesses on the add ons I will put in (another USB power drop, dash cam run, LED lighting, stuff like that). I will be able to run all the leads to the center console, hidden, and have neat clean harness connectors all with their own battery power supply. I'll just in-line fuse each gadget. No more tapping into power sources, no more twist caps, tap-circuits, all that mess.

When the final parts come in I will of course document it as a DIY here!

Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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post #45 of 118 Old 01-14-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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I am always mucking about with these metric bolts. I find myself running off to Lowes to use their bolt gauge to see if it is an M8 1.25 or 1.0, or whatever. That gets tiring. Right now, I plan to build a work deck in the space under the shift console to mount my bus bars, relays, etc. There are unused threaded holes I can tap into, but I would have to guess on a few sizes and pitches and go buy some bolts to make sure, all that. Toss in my son's '97 Explorer with some of the wackiest bolt sizes I can imagine SAE wise... Fahgedabout it.

I just bought this:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYD4SS8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYD4SS8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Spent a tad more than I wanted to ($55), but this runs from 3mm to 24mm. Nice. Is missing 17 and 18mm bolts, but I can live with that. Most of the fit ups I need are M6 - M12 range. I am going to use the hell out of this tool - a nice addition to my tool box.

I also received my bus bars today (for power and ground). Getting closer to a wire project on Salma. Soon.
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Camry Mod

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'15 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE)
'09 Camry SE 2.4L (2AZ-FE)
'97 Tacoma XL 4x4 Ext Cab 2.7L (3RZ-FE) - Manual
'97 Ford Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4.0L 4x4

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