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Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #1 of 25 Old 09-07-2018, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Gen6 Hey look, another rotor and pads thread!

Hi all,

I am at roughly 95,000 miles. I still got plenty of front pads left though I had to replaced the rear pads twice. One time because of a TSB the rear pads got angled so the wore off pretty bad. The second time because they were very worn. I am just looking at rotors and pads and because of the Youtube show, Car Throttle, I am started to look at EBC brakes. I am just wondering what do you think I should do and hear of any other opinions on other products.

Vehicle Information:
-2008 Toyota Camry CE/Base US Spec
-2AZ-FE 2.4L I4

How I drive: I like to drive with a sense of urgency but never stupid enough to need to cut everyone off on the hwy. I am willing to wait if I need to pass, sometimes about three car lengths before I do pass because I don't trust anyone. Due to the fact that I drive with a sense of urgency and my tendency to get at times (not a lot) I will some times need to stop my car suddenly so I don't hit the car in front of me. I don't plan on doing any track days or being an idiot and driving fast (unless I am on the right hwy)

Where I live: I live in Milwaukee, Wiscconsin so the weather will range from super hot, pretty wet, pretty darn cold, quite snowy, and pretty darn nice.

What my current plan is (I am most likely to stick with my current plan):
-Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake Pads
-Wagner Brake Rotors with the Black E-Coat (to resist rust corrosion)

What I am thinking about now:
-EBC Ultimax2 Brake Pads
-EBC RK Non-Slotted Brake Rotors

Me being cool:
-EBC Greenstuff 2000 Series Brake Pads
-EBC USR Slotted Brake Rotors


Last edited by Vangm25; 09-07-2018 at 04:26 PM.
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post #2 of 25 Old 09-07-2018, 05:45 PM
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I think the EBC Slotted Rotors with the Greenstuff is the better option. The Ultimax pads are oem replacements. The greenstuff should give better bit, less fade, and potentially less stopping distance. At the very least run the green stuff with the non-slotted rotors. Or, you can check out R1 concepts brake rotors on ebay. I have bought two pairs of slotted rotors from them and have been happy. I heard they took centric rotors and machined slots in them (what I read somewhere don't know if it is true or not) but centric makes pretty decent rotors. If you go that route you may want to look into EBC redstuff with R1 slotted rotors due to some cost savings?

Also, have you looked into Hawk pads? There are ongoing debates between EBC and Hawk, I have not tried Hawks pads yet but I want to during my next brake job with the same slotted R1 rotors probably.
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post #3 of 25 Old 09-07-2018, 11:21 PM
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If you have 18 inch wheels, go for highlander brakes. Used from wrecker calipers, new discs... If you pass on greenstuff pads it might nor cost more than your other idea
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post #4 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 01:39 AM
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Greenstuff is too soft of a pad for slotted rotors. Use the Black/Red/Yellow... and I recommend Yellow as a 1st choice with EBC.

For solid rotors, Bosch, RK OE, and Wagner are pretty good.

Don't rule out Stoptech Street, Akebono ASP, PowerStop Z23, Hawk HPS or 5.0, or Raybestos EHT for pads.

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post #5 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vangm25 View Post
Due to the fact that I drive with a sense of urgency and my tendency to get at times (not a lot) I will some times need to stop my car suddenly so I don't hit the car in front of me.
Eventually during your lifetime, you will probably get rear-ended due to the driving and braking habits you described. It's just a matter of time. Maybe you think that will be OK, because usually the other driver will be considered at fault no matter how fast you stop. But don't be surprised if your car gets totaled at some point and the payoff is not enough to buy an equivalent car.

As far as your rear brakes wearing out much faster than the fronts, I have never heard of that happening on FWD car (and not even on many RWD or AWD vehicles) with disc brakes on all 4 wheels. Maybe there is something about that model year of Camry that is different than most or braking systems, but seems very strange to me. Or maybe your anti-lock braking system is getting triggered much more often than normal due to you braking habits.
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post #6 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Eventually during your lifetime, you will probably get rear-ended due to the driving and braking habits you described. It's just a matter of time. Maybe you think that will be OK, because usually the other driver will be considered at fault no matter how fast you stop. But don't be surprised if your car gets totaled at some point and the payoff is not enough to buy an equivalent car.

As far as your rear brakes wearing out much faster than the fronts, I have never heard of that happening on FWD car (and not even on many RWD or AWD vehicles) with disc brakes on all 4 wheels. Maybe there is something about that model year of Camry that is different than most or braking systems, but seems very strange to me. Or maybe your anti-lock braking system is getting triggered much more often than normal due to you braking habits.
I give my driving habits so that others can get an idea of how I drive and what rotors and pads might work out best for me. It's hard to give someone info if they don't know it. Am I racing and going on a track day? Am I driving 5 miles to the grocery store? No one would know. I am simply telling the truth on how I drive. I drive with a sense of urgency but I will not drive nor do I have the ability to cut off multiple people while speeding 20 mph over like all of the other idiots I have seen rush pass me. Getting someone killed or getting pulled over is not a risk I am willing to take. I drive quick and take my time at the same time as opposed to racing towards the finish. No one is perfect at driving and while I do say I have that tendency to get a little distracted, I am focused enough to watch what the car in front of me does so that I know when to brake.

Just like all of those car crash videos I have seen where the crash could've been avoided because it was obviously gonna happen, I expect that to happen in those similar locations so I drive more cautiously at those locations. I won't yield to idiots who try to road-rage me of if they want to flip-me-off. They can outrun me and I won't chase. I have no reason to nor does the 2AZ-FE have enough power to chase anyone. I won't risk it either way.

I brake relatively hard so I am not that surprised about why I had to change my rear pads a second time. It's not a big deal since I might've gotten up to 65,000 miles on those pads. The only time I have felt the ABS kick in was either in slippery conditions or when I had to make one very sudden stop at high speed. Otherwise my ABS does not kick in much.

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post #7 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Vangm25 View Post
[B]I give my driving habits so that others can get an idea of how I drive and what rotors and pads might work out best for me.
I am not trying to criticize you or your driving habits, just trying to help. As someone who is probably a lot older than you, I am just saying that eventually the law of averages is going to catch up with you over the course of your lifetime, and you will probably be rear-ended if you continue to stop quickly so often. There are a lot of drivers behind you that are not always paying attention, and getting rear ended happens. Do what you want.
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post #8 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 08:21 AM
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Your driving habits mimic everyday commute in any major metropolitan area. If you get hit from behind, blame the tailgater or the not-paying-attention driver. Don't become either.

If the Thermoquiet pads have a "GG" frictional code, they're a step or two above the FF or FG OE pads. Rear pads can be as low as EE on some Toyotas. It doesn't take much to improve over OE pads.

Make sure that you install new brake and caliper hardware, like pin boots and pad return springs(drag reduction), shims should come with the pads,.... and thoroughly clean the hubs, calipers, rotors, and inside rims. Use a fortified silicone grease for the pins and NOT generic petro or synth-petro brake grease. Toyota has a good brake grease too... silicone fortified by PTFE and TSB'd as a solution to issues caused by their factory install PAG lithium glycol brake grease. A complete brake bleed is a must.

For $135, Stoptech makes braided brake hoses for all-around upgrades. It'll improve your brake pedal feel and hopefully you learn to threshold brake to avoid ABS. If you live for ABS, then no pad will help much.

For the money, its hard to beat semi-metallic pads for aggressive commute habits. Raybestos EHT are ceramic-metallic hybrid pads, are usually GG rated, and a bargain.

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post #9 of 25 Old 09-08-2018, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Greasymechtech View Post
Your driving habits mimic everyday commute in any major metropolitan area. If you get hit from behind, blame the tailgater or the not-paying-attention driver. Don't become either.

If the Thermoquiet pads have a "GG" frictional code, they're a step or two above the FF or FG OE pads. Rear pads can be as low as EE on some Toyotas. It doesn't take much to improve over OE pads.

Make sure that you install new brake and caliper hardware, like pin boots and pad return springs(drag reduction), shims should come with the pads,.... and thoroughly clean the hubs, calipers, rotors, and inside rims. Use a fortified silicone grease for the pins and NOT generic petro or synth-petro brake grease. Toyota has a good brake grease too... silicone fortified by PTFE and TSB'd as a solution to issues caused by their factory install PAG lithium glycol brake grease. A complete brake bleed is a must.

For $135, Stoptech makes braided brake hoses for all-around upgrades. It'll improve your brake pedal feel and hopefully you learn to threshold brake to avoid ABS. If you live for ABS, then no pad will help much.

For the money, its hard to beat semi-metallic pads for aggressive commute habits. Raybestos EHT are ceramic-metallic hybrid pads, are usually GG rated, and a bargain.
While I do plan on doing a full brake flush, it probably won't happen anytime soon. I have thought about braided brake lines but I am too worried on how well and for how long they will resist against the salt from winter. The main reason why I might stick with Wagner ThermoQuiet (they seem to be GG rated) is because when I still worked at the shop they were our top-of-the-line brake pads that we sold. If I remember correctly, other than possible brake hardware, ThermoQuiet's do not have any shimes. They are just the pad and the metal glued to the pad. Generally though, when I did brakes I always removed the shims and the low thickness indicator (I forget what it is called) because over time eventually the shim stops being held and "falls" causing brake noise because it is scratching on the hub. We typically removed the low thickness indicator because people would get come back even though there was nothing wrong with the pads... I think...

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post #10 of 25 Old 09-09-2018, 10:29 PM
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Just broke my right bleeder screw off yesterday, so decided to go with new front calipers and ceramic pads. I think the current pads are semi-metallic and make a lot of dust, otherwise the would be fine to reuse. Rock Auto has been very competitive price wise on calipers, thought the core charge could hurt until reterned, there's probably a 5% discount coupon here somewhere, and locally Advanced Auto usually has a 20% discount, buy online-pick-up in store. My rotors seem fine, but the drilled ones I would avoid for fear of cracking. I would opt for a coated rotor though, probably kick myself later for cheaping out...
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post #11 of 25 Old 09-10-2018, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Just broke my right bleeder screw off yesterday, so decided to go with new front calipers and ceramic pads. I think the current pads are semi-metallic and make a lot of dust, otherwise the would be fine to reuse. Rock Auto has been very competitive price wise on calipers, thought the core charge could hurt until reterned, there's probably a 5% discount coupon here somewhere, and locally Advanced Auto usually has a 20% discount, buy online-pick-up in store. My rotors seem fine, but the drilled ones I would avoid for fear of cracking. I would opt for a coated rotor though, probably kick myself later for cheaping out...
I believe the overall consensus is that unless it is the 1950s - 1990s, drilled rotors don't provide any advantage compared to normal rotors and are at more risk of cracking near the holes. This is mostly just due to the change in braking technology (at least how I summarize it). Slotted rotors well be a little bit better but it mostly depends on the driving conditions. Overall I think I will just stick with what I have planned, Wagner ThermoQuiet Pads and the Wagner Rotors with the Black E-Coating. Easier and cheaper (sorta). If anything, whenever next I need to change my brakes after those then I might get something "sporty" like EBC YellowStuff and slotted rotors.

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post #12 of 25 Old 07-06-2019, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Brakes been squeaking (screeching) even with a set of warrantied pads. Everything moves and everything is lubricated but still getting sound. Planning on replacing:
  • All of the caliper pins
  • All of the caliper bushings
  • Re-lubricating everything
  • Potentially filing the pads to fit (again)
  • Cleaning the bores of all of the slide pins
  • Installing the Raybestos Rear Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip
  • Sanding the pad material (?)
Reason I am replacing all of the bushings is that the anti-seize I used beforehand might've "contaminated" the rubber. I could not get the anti-rattle o-rings to reinstall so I just gave up. Can't really thing of anything else other than getting another set of pads and rotors. I can't even tell where the sound is from... All ears for anything else.

Currently Equipped
  • Wagner ThermoQuiets (2nd set) Pads
  • Wagner Hardware Kit (came with pads)
  • Wagner Rotors
  • Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant

PS: It gets old fighting to put the inner pads into the caliper bracket.


Last edited by Vangm25; 07-06-2019 at 12:32 AM.
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post #13 of 25 Old 07-06-2019, 07:10 AM
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2006 Camry with front discs and rear drums. My wife and I got 65000 miles on the factory front pads, then another 75000 miles on aftermarket "Wearever Silver" pads, then went again for the same Wearever Silver pads.

Still the same factory rotors, never machined, still plenty thick. Never ever any noise of squealing.

I coulda gotten at least 20K more on the second set of pads if one of the caliper pins hadn't rusted in place and caused pads to wear at a funny angle. I had to wail on that rusted pin for a whole hour with a wrench and a hammer and a torch on the caliper frame, to get it to come out.

So my recommendation: even if your pads are fine, be sure to check those pins every so often for rust. The boot seemed to be in fine shape but that pin had always had some rust on it in previous years.

IMHO, that rubber bushing on the bottom pins, is unnecessary. I think they put it in to reduce any possibility of brake noise but I've never had brake noise. Like your theory, I think it could break down over time and jam the pin.

Last edited by N3QE; 07-06-2019 at 07:16 AM.
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post #14 of 25 Old 07-06-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by N3QE View Post
2006 Camry with front discs and rear drums. My wife and I got 65000 miles on the factory front pads, then another 75000 miles on aftermarket "Wearever Silver" pads, then went again for the same Wearever Silver pads.

Still the same factory rotors, never machined, still plenty thick. Never ever any noise of squealing.

I coulda gotten at least 20K more on the second set of pads if one of the caliper pins hadn't rusted in place and caused pads to wear at a funny angle. I had to wail on that rusted pin for a whole hour with a wrench and a hammer and a torch on the caliper frame, to get it to come out.

So my recommendation: even if your pads are fine, be sure to check those pins every so often for rust. The boot seemed to be in fine shape but that pin had always had some rust on it in previous years.

IMHO, that rubber bushing on the bottom pins, is unnecessary. I think they put it in to reduce any possibility of brake noise but I've never had brake noise. Like your theory, I think it could break down over time and jam the pin.
That is what I figured too. The rubber bushing is typically something I threw out because I gave up trying to reinstall them but since my brakes have been sounds I figured I might as well try putting them in. From what I can tell, I thing there is still anti seize in the pin bores because the front pins are as shiny and clean as I did them before. I only had one rusty pin which was in the rear because the boot got a hole in it. One "issue" I did keep running into was that I kept running out of brake lubricant... Who knows... maybe the solution is just add A LOT of lubricant...

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post #15 of 25 Old 07-08-2019, 07:14 PM
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When I did my rotors and pads last year I went with the zinc coated Z23 carbon ceramic pads and rotors. The minute the dealer saw them they asked me how noisy they were ( Like the have serious noise issues). I told him as long as you install them correctly (they are drilled and slotted) they don't make noise a stop fast, especially in wet conditions.

I wanted to do the highlander brakes, but I have 16 inch wheels and I haven't seen a set of 17 or 18 inch rims I like.... so that didn't happen.

Oh and the rust from the Z23 rotors is minimal over time with the zinc coating.... so less trash to clean off my wheels when I detail them.
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