Official: 2002-2006 Camry 2.4 Liter 2AZFE Stripped Head Bolt Thread - Page 4 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #46 of 1442 Old 01-15-2010, 05:04 PM
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Turn the wheels to the left, with a good light look at the area between the block and the intake manifold from the rear of the right wheel, if you see antifreeze soaking the thick foam "packing--black rubber--gasket" it's coming from the headgasket. the bolts holding the head to the block are not holding and cannot be tightend.

It is repairable "if" the engine has not been overheated, use or have timeserts installed and replace the headbolts. if over 100K install a new waterpump and belt tensioner(?) as well.
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post #47 of 1442 Old 01-15-2010, 05:16 PM
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10 headdbolts,,,

I am a retired mechanic (froklifts, trucks etc.)

Repair will take 3 to 5 days (should have the valve seals replaced if over 100K) and get the head surface checked for flatness. Mine was fine with 3 bolts stripped.

USE A 12pt SPLINE TOOL TO REMOVE THE BOLTS the heads are not as hard as they should be. You can drill them out if needed.
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post #48 of 1442 Old 01-18-2010, 11:16 PM
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03 highlander headbolts stripped

I also have the same issue with the 03 highlander, its a shame toyota wont step up and save the reputation that got most of us to own their vehicles.
I have removed and rebuilt the transmission on my 92 exploder so i believe with some insight from Dave 0919 i can do this
I have some questions.

1. What tools would i need


2 How many tylenols should i take before doing this repair.

Last edited by lindsayd; 01-18-2010 at 11:25 PM. Reason: incomplete
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post #49 of 1442 Old 01-19-2010, 11:15 PM
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Sounds like you have the tools needed. Use a bottle jack to hold the engine up after removing the pan. 2 nuts will remove the studs on the front cover. use a new or "good" 12pt tool to remove the head bolts, some will be hard to get started. If they round out, drill them out. A good 1/2" drill is a must. Might want to replace the water pump and belt tensioner..

DAve
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post #50 of 1442 Old 01-20-2010, 12:47 AM
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I also have the same issue with the 03 highlander, its a shame toyota wont step up and save the reputation that got most of us to own their vehicles.
If you don't mind me asking, how many miles do you have on your Highlander?

'16 Camry LE - 3K miles
'15 Camry SE - 11K miles
'13 Corolla LE - 18K miles
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post #51 of 1442 Old 01-20-2010, 09:36 PM
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03 highlander

the highlander has 260,000 miles, ive enjoyed every one. I plan to get many, many more.
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post #52 of 1442 Old 01-24-2010, 09:29 PM
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Help Im squirming here!

i have purchased a manual that basically describes removing the entire front of the engine {crank pulley etc} to get the head off , can you tell me how you did it Dave0919, Help Im squirming here! Thanks ............
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post #53 of 1442 Old 01-25-2010, 12:02 PM
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This weekend I just completed the repair on the threads on my 03 2.4 Camry. I will tell you, after much research it's not a rare failure as previously posted, but more likely inevitable. It's hard to imagine that the foam is causing the failure, but something certainly is. All the failures are the three center bolts on the intake side. Mine failed at 177k miles, and was meticulously maintained.

I decided to use the NS300L inserts available from huhnsolutions.com. Go to his website and read the differences between the Time Serts, Helicoils, and the NS300L. The NS300L has more aggressive threads to hold to the aluminum block, and are longer, giving greater thread contact and more stability, and I felt would be a more permanent repair. The kit was very easy to use, and everything you need is included. If you have mechanical ability and are capable of removing the head, the rest is just time consuming. Remember, you're drilling 4 inches deep into your block ten times (yes, do ALL the holes, not just the stripped ones!), so allow a full day to complete that step. It is not an evening job but a process. Just take your time and don't rush it, and keep the holes clean while drilling and tapping. Blow them out often.

I was considering doing the repair and unloading the car even though i do like it, but after doing the repair I feel very confident and will be keeping it. I know it's stronger than when Toyota built it!
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post #54 of 1442 Old 01-25-2010, 04:22 PM
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costello57,



Welcome to the TN forum. Kudos to you on the head bolt repair. Not many people would tackle that themselves. If you will oblige, I would like to ask a few questions:

1. How did you arrive at the conclusion that your head bolts were stripped (ie. what were the symptoms), and did it occur gradually over time or just suddenly?
2. How much did the repair end up costing you and how long did it take you to complete?
3. What is your mechanical background and how would you describe your level of proficiency experience with auto repairs? Is this something that a serious DIYer could tackle?

Is there any chance you would consider writing up a brief DIY procedure with the basic steps that you took (including any tips or things to watch out for) for the benefit of the rest of the TN members?

Thanks, dz63

2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 94K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 67K miles
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post #55 of 1442 Old 01-25-2010, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by costello57 View Post
This weekend I just completed the repair on the threads on my 03 2.4 Camry. I will tell you, after much research it's not a rare failure as previously posted, but more likely inevitable. It's hard to imagine that the foam is causing the failure, but something certainly is. All the failures are the three center bolts on the intake side. Mine failed at 177k miles, and was meticulously maintained.
On your original post earlier this month you said the Head Bolts failed at 117000 miles and now you say 177K miles. I am sure it's a typo, but when did it fail?
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post #56 of 1442 Old 01-25-2010, 09:57 PM
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since youve recently done this repair can you tell me if the front of the engine needs to be dismanteled 'if the crank pulley is a monster to pull and what tools did you need to complete the repair. Any insight would be helpful, i am very mechanically inclined and like to understand what im doing in my mind before i do it, and plan accordingly,

Thanks in advance ,lindsayd
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post #57 of 1442 Old 01-26-2010, 01:26 AM
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Failed at 117K

Sorry for the typo. It failed at 117K miles

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On your original post earlier this month you said the Head Bolts failed at 117000 miles and now you say 177K miles. I am sure it's a typo, but when did it fail?
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post #58 of 1442 Old 01-26-2010, 02:04 AM
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I dismantled the front. I don't know if it's possible to do without tearing it down, but I chose to replace the timing set as well. To be honest, when I removed the bolt from the crank pully, the pully came off by hand. No pullers needed! Buy a Haynes repair manual, (I got mine from PepBoys for $19, and it walked me through every step. You have to take alot apart, but if you take your time it's not that bad. The only "special" tool I needed was the bit for the headbolts, they're not a normal hex head. I purchased at 12mm 12 point bit (from NAPA for $6.49). If you have enough experience to change a headgasket and replace a timing chain, then you should be able to do it. Don't rush it. You're not doing it in one day. It took me three days. One night to tear it down, a full day to drill and tap the holes, and another day to clean up the parts and reassemble. This produces alot of metal chips from drilling and tapping the 10 holes, so it is very important to keep the shavings under control. You don't want them in cylinders, oil ports, etc. Keep the top of the block completely covered with duct tape as you drill and tap. If you use the NS300L kit, the guide block bolts from one headbolt to drill the next. Keep metal to metal contact between the engine block and the guide block. On the first hole I covered the top of the block with duct tape just exposing the hole I was working on, and bolted the guide block on top of that. But the duck tape allowed the guide block to move. (Not good!) Bolt the block to the metal, and tape around it and up too it. It's more of a pain in the butt, but safer. Also, blow the holes out often to keep the chips out. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Use brake parts cleaner to clean the holes and inserts before installing them. It's not a difficult repair, but you have to take your time! Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by lindsayd View Post
since youve recently done this repair can you tell me if the front of the engine needs to be dismanteled 'if the crank pulley is a monster to pull and what tools did you need to complete the repair. Any insight would be helpful, i am very mechanically inclined and like to understand what im doing in my mind before i do it, and plan accordingly,

Thanks in advance ,lindsayd
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post #59 of 1442 Old 01-26-2010, 02:38 AM
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1. I believe it started gradually with a slight coolant leak that was impossible to find. (Turns out it was under the mysterious "foam pad") I started hearing water in the heater because the system wasn't full. I would get an occasional whiff of antifreeze. I check all the hoses, radiator, cooling system, and couldn't find it anywhere. I even had a friend use a video scope to explore the hard to see spots with no luck. After doing some research on the internet, this site included, I learned of the thread failure. As the leak got worse it became clear it was coming from the back of the motor, and I wanted to see the mating surface between the block and the head, so I had to pull the intake. Between that and the block is the foam, and as soon as I pulled that off it was clear there was a problem there. I decided to pull the head. From research I knew what bolts are affected, so I wanted to pull those bolts first. Those three were loose. That was the problem.

2. The repair cost me about $650, but that also includes the timing set. As for time, I spent about 5 hours the first night tearing it down, about 7 hours drilling and tapping the holes, and about another 7 hours cleaning up the parts and reassembling.

3. My mechanical background. I have been a backyard mechanic my whole life. Grew up around cars, working on cars. I don't work as a mechanic but I've had the opportunity to do many of my own repairs. Could a DIYer handle it?? Someone has to be capable and confident of replacing head gaskets and timing chains and know how to drill and tap holes to even consider doing this. It is not a small project. If you can do that, then you can do this. However, if the DIYer isn't confident and knowledgeable about going deep into the motor, then I would advise against it.

I could put together a brief outline of the steps involved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dz63 View Post
costello57,



Welcome to the TN forum. Kudos to you on the head bolt repair. Not many people would tackle that themselves. If you will oblige, I would like to ask a few questions:

1. How did you arrive at the conclusion that your head bolts were stripped (ie. what were the symptoms), and did it occur gradually over time or just suddenly?
2. How much did the repair end up costing you and how long did it take you to complete?
3. What is your mechanical background and how would you describe your level of proficiency experience with auto repairs? Is this something that a serious DIYer could tackle?

Is there any chance you would consider writing up a brief DIY procedure with the basic steps that you took (including any tips or things to watch out for) for the benefit of the rest of the TN members?

Thanks, dz63
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post #60 of 1442 Old 01-26-2010, 09:47 PM
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I have the service manual but I would appreciate any postings of the real world procedures you took to get this done,any any tips you have since some manuals instructions are as vague as (remove engine from car , place new engine in car and secure all fasteners)
thanks for any help you can give.

Lindsay d
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