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post #16 of 30 Old 08-16-2010, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_B54 View Post
I have not tried moving bulbs, if they needed turned around, I would think they wouldn't work...but I am up for anything. I plan on playing a little tonight.

Since I had to pull my rear LEDs out I thought I could put the 2 LEDs I do have both in the same side to try it out, but you mention the fronts need to be the SACK style. Why does Toyota wire up the front to require the SACK and the rears do not?
I dont know what the S stands for but the A is for Amber. I also dont know what CK stands for but its more of "CK". In SWACK, W is White..the rest is the same as SACK (hope that wasnt confusing). So I dont know why they require CK bulbs for the front.

I honestly do not know your answer as to why. It could be for voltage, it could be many reasons or no reason at all.
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post #17 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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I believe I now have everything sorted out.

1) I returned the Eagle Eyes, and only got screwed out of $10 shipping. In the end, my wife didn’t really notice the difference and didn’t seem to like them anyway. I still think it would be easy enough to create a little pigtail, and I do have quite a few measurements and several high detail photos of the gen 6.5 connector if anyone needs them.

2) Got the correct bulbs all around, installed everything and…..hyperflash

Per the LED/Lighting thread i purchased the "- LED Flasher Module (CF18 - #81980-50030 - MAX 150W. Original part #81980-02030)"

When I ordered the 81980-50030 from Toyotapartszone.com I received the 81980-02030.

These photos compare the 81980-06020 that came on our car (2011 SE) with the 81980-02030 that was supposed to prevent the hyperflashing. From what I can see there is zero difference between the two (except the part number...and the chip that I cut on with the dremmel). I also noticed that it does not say “For LED” on it like I have seen in other photos.





2011 SE - I4 - Black
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post #18 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil_B54 View Post
I believe I now have everything sorted out.

1) I returned the Eagle Eyes, and only got screwed out of $10 shipping. In the end, my wife didn’t really notice the difference and didn’t seem to like them anyway. I still think it would be easy enough to create a little pigtail, and I do have quite a few measurements and several high detail photos of the gen 6.5 connector if anyone needs them.

2) Got the correct bulbs all around, installed everything and…..hyperflash

Per the LED/Lighting thread i purchased the "- LED Flasher Module (CF18 - #81980-50030 - MAX 150W. Original part #81980-02030)"

When I ordered the 81980-50030 from Toyotapartszone.com I received the 81980-02030.

These photos compare the 81980-06020 that came on our car (2011 SE) with the 81980-02030 that was supposed to prevent the hyperflashing. From what I can see there is zero difference between the two (except the part number...and the chip that I cut on with the dremmel). I also noticed that it does not say “For LED” on it like I have seen in other photos.




For the flasher module, what you just bought was a stock module. As per LED thread, you must buy CF18 which is a LED flasher module. Even though the LEDs are flashing, it requires less voltage thus the stock module thinks the bulb is out when its really not. The CF18 corrects that problem.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...rake-turn.html

Scroll down the LED Flasher Module, click on SEE PRICES & BUY. In SELECT FLASHER NUMBER drop down, its CF18-08

Last edited by bandit; 09-07-2010 at 01:50 PM.
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post #19 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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The solution: Everyone says "add load resistors" I did not like the idea of adding the load resistors due to heat generated, splicing into my car's wiring and additional cost of buying the things after spending enough on the LEDs in the first place.

So I found in this thread https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253293&highlight=flasher , hcychang found that adding a 500K ohm variable resistor will get the desired flash. I Pm’ed him and he was very helpful in answering questions and sending higher res photos. Thank you Henry

The following is a short DIY on the mod for anyone interested.

For the 500K ohm variable resistor I used Bourns pn# 3362M-1-504LF ordered from www.jameco.com They are less than $1/pc, but the minimum qty and shipping takes them to more like $1.25/pc @ 15pcs. (I have 14pcs left , PM me if you would want one)

This is a very basic diagram of where the wires will go on the flasher unit.




I started by soldering short sections of wire to the resistor. All I had on hand with 16 gauge, but I think it would be easier with smaller wire. I would also recommend taping up the wires at this point, it will be much more difficult later.




The hardest part is that the pin on the rectangular chip must be unsoldered from the circuit board. I took an o-ring pick and pulled at the pin while touching it with the soldering iron. When it comes free slightly bend it up so you can solder it to the wire. ***See notes below***



Once soldered together, you should get the cap put back on. Because of the layout of the resistor I chose, and the huge wire I had on hand I would not have room to get the plastic cap back on.***See notes below*** I utilized my soldering iron to melt a hole in the cap to allow the wires to come out. It looks like crap, but worked out great, as you can adjust the resistor with minimal fuss once installed.




Starting with the dial turned as far as it would go counter clockwise. Connect the flasher to the car, turn on the ignition and try the turn signal. At this point it should still hyperflash with LEDs installed. Slowly turn the dial clockwise until it flashes normally. This will take a couple tries, if you go too far it won’t flash at all, you will have to kill the ignition turn it back and start again.

IT WORKS!!!!!

***Notes*** It is extremely easy to break the pins off the rectangular chip. I would highly recommend closing the unit all up before installing it and adjusting. You will break off the pin in the process of wrestling it in and out of the dash if you do not.

Using a dremmel, I tried to grind some material off the chip to get something to solder to…but with no luck. So I re-did the whole thing with my “spare” flasher.

Again, I hope this helps someone else.

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post #20 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil_B54 View Post
The solution: Everyone says "add load resistors" I did not like the idea of adding the load resistors due to heat generated, splicing into my car's wiring and additional cost of buying the things after spending enough on the LEDs in the first place.

So I found in this thread https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253293&highlight=flasher , hcychang found that adding a 500K ohm variable resistor will get the desired flash. I Pm’ed him and he was very helpful in answering questions and sending higher res photos. Thank you Henry

The following is a short DIY on the mod for anyone interested.

For the 500K ohm variable resistor I used Bourns pn# 3362M-1-504LF ordered from www.jameco.com They are less than $1/pc, but the minimum qty and shipping takes them to more like $1.25/pc @ 15pcs. (I have 14pcs left , PM me if you would want one)

This is a very basic diagram of where the wires will go on the flasher unit.




I started by soldering short sections of wire to the resistor. All I had on hand with 16 gauge, but I think it would be easier with smaller wire. I would also recommend taping up the wires at this point, it will be much more difficult later.




The hardest part is that the pin on the rectangular chip must be unsoldered from the circuit board. I took an o-ring pick and pulled at the pin while touching it with the soldering iron. When it comes free slightly bend it up so you can solder it to the wire. ***See notes below***



Once soldered together, you should get the cap put back on. Because of the layout of the resistor I chose, and the huge wire I had on hand I would not have room to get the plastic cap back on.***See notes below*** I utilized my soldering iron to melt a hole in the cap to allow the wires to come out. It looks like crap, but worked out great, as you can adjust the resistor with minimal fuss once installed.




Starting with the dial turned as far as it would go counter clockwise. Connect the flasher to the car, turn on the ignition and try the turn signal. At this point it should still hyperflash with LEDs installed. Slowly turn the dial clockwise until it flashes normally. This will take a couple tries, if you go too far it won’t flash at all, you will have to kill the ignition turn it back and start again.

IT WORKS!!!!!

***Notes*** It is extremely easy to break the pins off the rectangular chip. I would highly recommend closing the unit all up before installing it and adjusting. You will break off the pin in the process of wrestling it in and out of the dash if you do not.

Using a dremmel, I tried to grind some material off the chip to get something to solder to…but with no luck. So I re-did the whole thing with my “spare” flasher.

Again, I hope this helps someone else.
Great tutorial. I will add this to the master led list
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post #21 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dcemureviews View Post
For the flasher module, what you just bought was a stock module. As per LED thread, you must buy CF18 which is a LED flasher module. Even though the LEDs are flashing, it requires less voltage thus the stock module thinks the bulb is out when its really not. The CF18 corrects that problem.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...rake-turn.html

Scroll down the LED Flasher Module, click on SEE PRICES & BUY. In SELECT FLASHER NUMBER drop down, its CF18-08
it is true that when you install that led flasher module, the lights dont flash when you lock the car or something like that?


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post #22 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 03:34 PM
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it is true that when you install that led flasher module, the lights dont flash when you lock the car or something like that?
Yes. Its been stated by others who have installed it.
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post #23 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 03:42 PM
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Yes. Its been stated by others who have installed it.
if i get load resistors, will i have to get one for each bulb, 4 total, or just one per side?


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post #24 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 05:18 PM
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if i get load resistors, will i have to get one for each bulb, 4 total, or just one per side?
If you read the master led list, if you get the load resistor that is listed, you only need 2 (pair). Its easier to install on the rear. Left side will work for both front and rear. Right side will work for both front and rear.
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post #25 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 06:11 PM
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Well done Phil_B54, really great job and million thanks for explaining it in such a detail.
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post #26 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 06:13 PM
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Yes. Its been stated by others who have installed it.
Interesting. In my case, the indicators still work when I lock and unlock the car. Mine is a Gen 5/02.
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post #27 of 30 Old 09-07-2010, 06:26 PM
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Interesting. In my case, the indicators still work when I lock and unlock the car. Mine is a Gen 5/02.
Gen 5 is different from Gen 6
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post #28 of 30 Old 01-27-2012, 02:32 AM
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Great info thanks
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post #29 of 30 Old 11-10-2013, 09:16 PM
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for the rear like i said u can get it to work but it won't be plug and play. i know someone else who is going to be undertaking the same thing soon. shouldn't be too hard.
Hey do you know when that person will finish it and if they could put up a thread. i have a gen 6.5 and i love your taillights. Im really good with wiring but i was afraid if i touched the wrong wire I would short out the LED taillights and that 170 down the drain. I posted a thread but i didn't get any leads.

P.S I love the white camry se and wanted one but i ended up with a gray-still wished i gotten the white though but ohh well. I heard on here toyota doesn't clear coat the white is that true?Hows your paint
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post #30 of 30 Old 11-10-2013, 09:27 PM
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[QUOTE=Phil_B54;3287464][SIZE=3][FONT=Calibri]
3) After the defeat on the front LED’s I thought atleast I could finish up the tails. I attempted to remove the light without removing the bumper (https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233698 ) without luck. Ended up pulling the bumper per this thread (https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260042 ).

With the light removed I went to install the Eagle Eyes and found the connectors were different as shown in these poorly focused photos.



The lights on the trunk were not any better. The Eagle eye has running / brake light and the reverse light on the trunk. My car only has the reverse light in the truck, the rest is only reflector.

Hey i have a 2011 se too so sorry for what you're going through. I wanted to put on those smoked out tail lights as well. I know they won't fit directly and i want to cut the wires to fit. Can you answer me some question? On the stock taillight for turn signals and brake light how many wires does it have. I can see on the aftermarket on it has 2 wires. Also how many wires does the stock light on the truck have vs the wires the tail light you bought.

Does the eagle eye taillight fit perfectly on the gen 6.5. I may be interested to buy them off of you.

Last edited by 2011SEV6; 11-10-2013 at 09:30 PM.
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