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post #1 of 294 Old 08-08-2013, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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DIY 2007-2011 V6 and 2010-2011 I4 Camry 6 Speed Auto Transmission Flush with PICS!

After much waiting here is the DIY flush procedure for the U660E/U760E transmission of the FWD Toyota's without a dipstick. Did this on my brother in law's 2008 Camry with 70K on it. The fluid initially looked good but there was a noticeable difference in look between the old and new fluid.

This procedure applies directly to the 2007-2011 V6 and 2010-2011 I4 Camry with the 6 speed automatic transmission. This transmission calls for WS fluid so you can use ant WS compatible fluids. This procedure will be similar for all 2008+ Avalon, 2007+ ES350, 2011+ Sienna, 2010+ RX350, 2009+ Venza, or any other Toyota with a similar setup.

Note: U660E and U760E use a different cooler hose setup. The difference does not change the DIY in any material way.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.


Tools and Parts needed:

Note: You will need to use at least one of the optional methods to check fluid temp. This means either the Techstream, paperclip, or thermomemter.

1/2 drive 15/16 or 24mm socket
1/2 drive ratchet
1/2 drive extensions (the more the better)
3/8 drive 10mm socket
3/8 drive 6mm hex socket
3/8 drive ratchet
Flat head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers or angle nose pliers
Hose pliers or a very small pocket flat head screwdriver
Drain pan
1-2 Feet of 3/8" or 7/16" ID (7/16" Preferred) Rubber ATF Cooler Hose Section (2GRFE V6 with U660E)
1-2 Feet of 5/16 ID x 7/16 OD Clear PVC/Vinyl Tubing (2ARFE I4 with U760E)
Measuring container or jug to measure roughly 1 quart of fluid (I used the graduation lines of a 5 quart Mobil 1 jug)
12 quarts of ATF
Jack
Jack Stands
Long reach narrow tube funnel or small fluid hand pump to fit into dipstick tube
Brake parts cleaner
Non Contact IR thermometer that can read at least 150 degrees Farenheit (one option)
Toyota Techstream Software (one option)
Paper Clip (one option)
Gloves
New splash shield clips (if necessary)
New fill plug and inspection plug gasket (if necessary)
Rags or towels



For a list of compatible ATF, see the Maintenance Sticky below:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...nted-know.html

Part numbers:
Lower Splash shield clips: 90467-07214. Buy from clipsandfasteners.com and save some coin.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Toy...s_p/a21294.htm

Inner splash shield clips: 90467-07043

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Push-Type...28b646&vxp=mtr

Fill plug gasket: 90430-18008 (fits almost every single Toyota transmission all the way back to the 90's). If you need a lot you can buy Dorman 095-149 from Amazon and save money from the dealer price.

Inspection plug gasket: 90430-12008 or 90430-A0002

Note: Having a helper here is highly recommended but not required.

Let's begin!

1. Drive the car around the block one time to warm up the fluid then park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake and place the selector in park. Shut engine off and open the hood.



2. Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands. I like to use the nub located on the front subframe to jack in the front. The nub is located about center of the car. Lower the car onto jack stands on the pinch welds or frame rails.



3. Remove the driver side lower splash shield. Depending on who has worked on your car previously or any kind of curbs you may have hit some of these may be missing. Here is when it would be a good idea to have extra clips handy (I broke 2). Using your flat head screwdriver remove the 3 push clips holding the splash shield by prying out the center section and removing the clip. Remove the 5 10mm screws securing the splash shield and small mud guard piece to the car and remove the splash shield and mud guard.



4. Remove the driver side inner splash shield. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Remove the inner splash shield by removing the 2 10mm bolts using your 10mm socket and ratchet or impact and 1 plastic clip by depressing the center of the clip down until it unlocks and then using your fingers or screwdriver to remove the clip. Remove the inner splash shield from the vehicle.



5. Remove the transmission return hose from the radiator/transmission cooler. Locate the cooler hoses which go from the radiator to transmission (2GRFE V6 with U660E) or transmission cooler to transmission (2ARFE I4 with U760E). On the 2GRFE V6 with U660E the return hose is towards the driver side and the supply hose is towards the passenger side. On the 2ARFE I4 with U760E, the return hose is towards the passenger side and the supply hose is towards the driver side. To verify which outlet is the correct return hose outlet, remove both hoses from the radiator/transmission cooler outlets and set them into a bucket. Briefly start the engine for around 2-3 seconds and observe the hoses. The hose that has fluid pumping out is the supply hose and the hose that does not is the return hose. Then reconnect the supply hose to the cooler supply hose outlet and attach your hose section to the cooler return hose outlet (2ARFE I4 with U760E) or vinyl tubing to the return hose itself (2ARFE I4 with U760E).

To remove the hoses, using your needle nose pliers depress the ears of the hose clamp and slide the clamp down the hose (angled needle nose are priceless here). Using your hose pliers or very small pocket screwdriver break the hose and line seal and slide the hose off of the line.

NOTE: It is a good idea to have your drain pan and container in position here to avoid spilling fluid on the ground.

2GRFE V6 with U660E:



2ARFE I4 with U760E:



6. Pump out one quart of fluid. Attach your section of 3/8" or 7/16" hose to the radiator outlet (2GRFE V6 with U660E) or insert your 5/16" ID by 7/16" OD clear PVC/vinyl tubing into the return hose itself (2ARFE I4 with U760E). After ensuring the hose/tubing is well inside your suitable drain container start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a bit less than 1 quart of fluid. When it is about there shut off the engine. You will notice that after you shut off the engine, a small amount of fluid will drain out. This is where a helper is valuable.

Note: The transmission pumps fluid at a relatively easy rate. You are not in danger of pumping out all of your fluid unless you are not paying attention.

Warning: Hot transmission fluid can cause burns or injury. Take proper precautions when dealing with hot fluids.2GRFE V6 with U660E:


2ARFE I4 with U760E:





7. Fill the transmission with exactly 1 quart of fluid. Remove the transmission fill plug using your 15/16 inch/24mm socket, ratchet, and extensions. Insert your funnel or pump and add 1 quart of fluid into the transmission. Reinstall the fill plug finger tight only since it will be coming off several more times.



8. Repeat steps 6-7 around 9-10 more times. You will notice by quart 9, the fluid will look brand new. The 11th and 12th quart arr there to top off if you were a little off after the warm up.

9. Reinstall the transmission return hose onto the radiator/transmission. Remove the 3/8" or 7/16" ID hose section from the radiator outlet and slide the return hose onto the radiator outlet (2GRFE V6 with U660E) or remove the 5/16" ID by 7/16" OD PVC/Vinyl tubing from the return hose itself an slide the hose back onto the transmission (2ARFE I4 with U760E). Using your needle nose pliers reinstall the hose clamp in its original position.



10. Check the fluid level. Level the car by jacking up the rear of the vehicle until it's level. Start the car in the air and warm the transmission fluid to the proper temp (104-113 degrees Farenheit/40-45 Degrees Celcius per Toyota). If using a thermometer I like to contact the fluid itself immediately at the overflow point. This way your fluid reading is more accurate to the fluid temp at the sensor. If using a Techstream observe the fluid temp in the data list or place the transmission in inspection mode (I will update this portion of the procedure when I use a Techstream). If using the paperclip, see below.

Note: Some fluid has to come out of the overflow for the thermometer check to work correctly. If no fluid comes out, you will need to add fluid through the fill hole and recheck both flow rate and temperature.

Note: Thanks to forum member Black73 for the following steps.


1. Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 (OBD2 connector under steering column) using a small paper clip or jumper wire to jump PIN 4 and 13 together. Keep note of the orientation of the 16 pin DLC3 connector when jumping the terminals.



2. Move the shift lever back and forth between the NEUTRAL and DRIVE positions at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds.

3. The D shift indicator on the combination meter comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid temperature is within the appropriate temperature range.

4. The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 40C (104F) and will blink when it exceeds 45C (113F).

5. After confirming that the D shift indicator turns off, move the shift lever to the P position and remove the SST from terminals CG and TC.


Cycle the car through the gears with the brake depressed a few times. Using your 6mm allen socket and ratchet remove the inspection plug from the transmission pan. Observe if fluid comes out or not. If no fluid comes out remove the fill plug and add fluid until you get a steady small stream/trickle of fluid draining ( I had to add around another 1/2 quart). Light dripping or heavy flow is a sign of an underfilled or overfilled transmission. When the desired flow rate is reached reinstall the fill and inspection plugs and tighten to 30 lb ft. or snug (tight but not too tight to damage the gasket).




11. Reinstall the driver side inner splash shield. First using your brake parts cleaner liberally spray and clean the transmissino fluid from under the car. Position the splash shield inside the inner fender liner and reinstall the splash shield clip and 2 10mm bolts. To reset the clip you will need to push the center section back out past the flush position using your fingers. Then insert the clip and depress the center until it is flush.

12. Reinstall the driver side lower splash shield. First using your brake parts cleaner liberally spray and clean the transmission fluid from under the car. Set the splash shield into position (remember that at the front of the splash shield/bumper area the splash shield extensions go under the bumper. Install your 3 clips and 5 screws. Be sure the the mud guard piece goes on the outside towards the wheel area. Remove the drain pan from under the car.



13. Lower the vehicle off of jack stands.

14. Go for a good long test drive of at least 15 minutes and try to get the vehicle up at highway speed and verify shift quality.

Admire your work and money you saved!

I did this entire flush for around 80 bucks your cost may be slightly higher depending on fluid cost. The going rate where I live is $189.95 and who knows what fluid is used.

Hope this helps.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 (Shell Right Now)
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T
2008 LS460 SWB RWD 1URFSE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.

Last edited by hardtopte72; 08-30-2016 at 01:02 PM. Reason: Update, Cleanup, Error Corrections
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post #2 of 294 Old 08-23-2013, 08:02 AM
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Dealer now says 60K on WS tranny fluid-Drain plug on 09V6 ??

Great DIY thread hardtopte72. Thanks.
************
OK ..... so I bring my car into BobTyler Toyota on 8-1-13 at 59,500 miles for the usual 6,500 mile Mobil 1 5w30 oil change (in service date April 8, 2008) and tell them to do a radiator flush and, if needed, brake fluid bleeding.

They said brake fluid still looks like virgin olive oil so does not need it yet. As for radiator ..... it was so clear they only did radiator drain & refill to give coolant a "refresh" until factory recommended 100K. I asked for a water pump inspection as well.

But, they said they now recommend change tranny fluid at 60,000 miles (instead of the former 75-100K miles) because the stuff comes out so black anything after 75,000 miles, particularly the 5 speed I4's. So, I'll do it next time at 66,000. They charge $125 which I think is pretty good.

Here is what stunned me: When tech put the car on the lift .... he went over it really carefully ........ making a point to show me I had zero leaks of any sort ..... including struts and water pump. Then he showed me the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan as well as the filler & overflow plugs.

I asked about dropping the pan and changing the filter and he said .. "toyota says not to do it."

Every picture I've seen of Highlander & Camry tranny from underneath shows NO drain plug. (If someone doesn't believe mine has one .... I'll go out and move the car out over the curb and take a picture.) I cannot tell from your pics if your "drain" is on the side or the bottom. I don't get the splash guard thing. Mine clearly does not need to be removed to do a drain and refill. What am I missing here ? Did the splash guard and/or drain plug change from 08 to 09 ????? I wouldn'think so. Also, can they do a drain & refill on a hot engine ?????? or should I bring it in the night before? That 106 degree reading is about what my engine is on a hot summer morning after sitting overnight in the garage.

See for example Highlander tranny fluid temp with hot engine:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...o-android.html

The only reason I am asking is to know what to watch out for when I have it done next oil change visit. I don't believe they go through your elaborate procedure for only a $125 fluid exchange. I know your DIY is probably best ..... but I am not inclined to do anything myself. Glad I plan to get rid of the thing by 120-150,000 miles so it's someone else's problem after that. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Last edited by Paul3637; 08-23-2013 at 08:55 AM.
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post #3 of 294 Old 08-23-2013, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Paul3637 View Post
Great DIY thread hardtopte72. Thanks.
************
OK ..... so I bring my car into BobTyler Toyota on 8-1-13 at 59,500 miles for the usual 6,500 mile Mobil 1 5w30 oil change (in service date April 8, 2008) and tell them to do a radiator flush and, if needed, brake fluid bleeding.

They said brake fluid still looks like virgin olive oil so does not need it yet. As for radiator ..... it was so clear they only did radiator drain & refill to give coolant a "refresh" until factory recommended 100K. I asked for a water pump inspection as well.

But, they said they now recommend change tranny fluid at 60,000 miles (instead of the former 75-100K miles) because the stuff comes out so black anything after 75,000 miles, particularly the 5 speed I4's. So, I'll do it next time at 66,000. They charge $125 which I think is pretty good.

Here is what stunned me: When tech put the car on the lift .... he went over it really carefully ........ making a point to show me I had zero leaks of any sort ..... including struts and water pump. Then he showed me the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan as well as the filler & overflow plugs.

I asked about dropping the pan and changing the filter and he said .. "toyota says not to do it."

Every picture I've seen of Highlander & Camry tranny from underneath shows NO drain plug. (If someone doesn't believe mine has one .... I'll go out and move the car out over the curb and take a picture.) I cannot tell from your pics if your "drain" is on the side or the bottom. I don't get the splash guard thing. Mine clearly does not need to be removed to do a drain and refill. What am I missing here ? Did the splash guard and/or drain plug change from 08 to 09 ????? I wouldn'think so. Also, can they do a drain & refill on a hot engine ?????? or should I bring it in the night before? That 106 degree reading is about what my engine is on a hot summer morning after sitting overnight in the garage.

See for example Highlander tranny fluid temp with hot engine:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...o-android.html

The only reason I am asking is to know what to watch out for when I have it done next oil change visit. I don't believe they go through your elaborate procedure for only a $125 fluid exchange. I know your DIY is probably best ..... but I am not inclined to do anything myself. Glad I plan to get rid of the thing by 120-150,000 miles so it's someone else's problem after that. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.
I just woke up so it looks like a lot going on in your post but ill do my best to answer.

All 2007-2011 V6 Camry use the same exact U660E 6 speed "sealed" automatic transmission.

These newer Toyota sealed transmissions "DO NOT" have a "DRAIN" plug, rather they have an "INSPECTION" plug.

This isn't simply a new naming scheme because the plug on the bottom (3rd picture from the bottom in the DIY and probably what you look at) if removed will not drain the transaxle. Fluid will only drain from the transaxle when fluid is at the specified temperatures and the only way a rush will come out is during an overfilled situation. Short of that if you removed the inspection plug on your car right now I'm 99.999999% sure you wouldn't even get a drip of fluid out of the transmission. The way it works as stated above is you remove the plug during a certain temperature range (for the fluid) and watch the rate of flow out of this plug. If it drips a little it's underfilled and if it rushes out its overfilled. The target amount is a steady stream of fluid that is "just right".

As for the $125 dollar price I think an incompetent service writer is charging you for a drain and fill (for an older "non sealed" transmission). WS is pretty expensive and the labor rate is usually at least 2 hours. My advice would be have it done for that price but to watch them. If they do it you should see 9-12 quarts of new fluid, a large clear and orange reservoir with a hose for filling (this is the Toyota WS filling tool used to add fluid), and a flush machine.

With this transmission you have to flush it since it can't be drained and that would be the best flush price I have ever seen (heck I could only do it for about 40-50 bucks less and I got fluid employee price). They are right that WS is an average fluid and 60k should be the max in any transmission.

Hope that helps.
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1982 Corolla SR-5 (Shell Right Now)
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post #4 of 294 Old 08-23-2013, 09:27 PM
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Thanks, you are the best

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtopte72 View Post
I just woke up so it looks like a lot going on in your post but ill do my best to answer.

All 2007-2011 V6 Camry use the same exact U660E 6 speed "sealed" automatic transmission.

These newer Toyota sealed transmissions "DO NOT" have a "DRAIN" plug, rather they have an "INSPECTION" plug.

This isn't simply a new naming scheme because the plug on the bottom (3rd picture from the bottom in the DIY and probably what you look at) if removed will not drain the transaxle. Fluid will only drain from the transaxle when fluid is at the specified temperatures and the only way a rush will come out is during an overfilled situation. Short of that if you removed the inspection plug on your car right now I'm 99.999999% sure you wouldn't even get a drip of fluid out of the transmission. The way it works as stated above is you remove the plug during a certain temperature range (for the fluid) and watch the rate of flow out of this plug. If it drips a little it's underfilled and if it rushes out its overfilled. The target amount is a steady stream of fluid that is "just right".

As for the $125 dollar price I think an incompetent service writer is charging you for a drain and fill (for an older "non sealed" transmission). WS is pretty expensive and the labor rate is usually at least 2 hours. My advice would be have it done for that price but to watch them. If they do it you should see 9-12 quarts of new fluid, a large clear and orange reservoir with a hose for filling (this is the Toyota WS filling tool used to add fluid), and a flush machine.

With this transmission you have to flush it since it can't be drained and that would be the best flush price I have ever seen (heck I could only do it for about 40-50 bucks less and I got fluid employee price). They are right that WS is an average fluid and 60k should be the max in any transmission.

Hope that helps.
****************
Yes. It certainly helps. I am just going to print all this out when I bring it in at 66,000 miles (next oil change visit) for a tranny fluid change when the car is almost six years old. Everything you say makes perfect sense to me. I am going to tell them to do it right and follow what you said. I don't care if it costs an extra $50 or so.

But what about the temperature thing ??????????? Should I leave it over-night and have the temperature at the 106 degrees versus a red hot engine? If need be, I'll rent a car just for the peace of mind.

......... And for all the people with the six speed no dipstick transmissions, there really should be a "sticky" on tranny fluid at the top of the list specific to this. People who are going to keep their Camrys over 100K miles OR when they sell it by owner, they can say all maintenancnce is tn tact.

It's almost like proper maintenance is cheaper than doing sporatic minimal maintenance. The value of proper maintenance records is always over $1,000 according to kbb.

Last edited by Paul3637; 08-23-2013 at 09:43 PM.
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post #5 of 294 Old 08-24-2013, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Paul3637 View Post
****************
Yes. It certainly helps. I am just going to print all this out when I bring it in at 66,000 miles (next oil change visit) for a tranny fluid change when the car is almost six years old. Everything you say makes perfect sense to me. I am going to tell them to do it right and follow what you said. I don't care if it costs an extra $50 or so.

But what about the temperature thing ??????????? Should I leave it over-night and have the temperature at the 106 degrees versus a red hot engine? If need be, I'll rent a car just for the peace of mind.

......... And for all the people with the six speed no dipstick transmissions, there really should be a "sticky" on tranny fluid at the top of the list specific to this. People who are going to keep their Camrys over 100K miles OR when they sell it by owner, they can say all maintenancnce is tn tact.

It's almost like proper maintenance is cheaper than doing sporatic minimal maintenance. The value of proper maintenance records is always over $1,000 according to kbb.
I'm a FIRM believer in maintaining vs. replacing. I am "weird" in my values and would much rather keep a car a long time and blow money on a project, vacations, or other nice things, that face constant car payments.

This and other DIY's are listed in the Maintenace DIY sticky.

Definitely watch them and make sure they do it right.

As for the temp I did that transmission fluids maybe 45 minutes after he drove it over 40 miles to my house on the highway. I'm not convinced the fluid gets all that hot. It probably hits a max of around 140-150 degrees during driving and cools off quickly. When I got my measurement it had been running with new fluid for maybe 5 minutes.

If the dealer is doing it they know what to do. The flush can be done while you wait.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 (Shell Right Now)
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T
2008 LS460 SWB RWD 1URFSE A/T

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post #6 of 294 Old 08-24-2013, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtopte72 View Post
I'm a FIRM believer in maintaining vs. replacing. I am "weird" in my values and would much rather keep a car a long time and blow money on a project, vacations, or other nice things, that face constant car payments.

This and other DIY's are listed in the Maintenace DIY sticky.

Definitely watch them and make sure they do it right.

As for the temp I did that transmission fluids maybe 45 minutes after he drove it over 40 miles to my house on the highway. I'm not convinced the fluid gets all that hot. It probably hits a max of around 140-150 degrees during driving and cools off quickly. When I got my measurement it had been running with new fluid for maybe 5 minutes. If the dealer is doing it they know what to do. The flush can be done while you wait.
*******

Thanks. Alas ..... peace of mind. I was actually afraid to have it done for fear something could go wrong. I'll take pictures as it's being done and post them .... but that probably won't happen until early 2014.
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post #7 of 294 Old 08-27-2013, 01:45 PM
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Great write up. Thanks. Will keep it till it's time to change flush the oil, which is coupe of months ago
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post #8 of 294 Old 08-27-2013, 04:04 PM
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If you remove the overflow plug first with the 6mm hex, and using same 6mm, turn out the overflow tube up in where plug came out, it will drain about 2qt. My 2009 Matrix with a drain plug only gets out about 2qt 20oz.

Hope this clears things up.

Temperature Check is built into the PCM here is how\/\/

1. BEFORE FILLING TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID
• This transaxle requires Genuine ATF WS
transmission fluid.
• After servicing the transaxle, you must refill the
transaxle with the correct amount of fluid.
• Maintain the vehicle in a horizontal position while
adjusting fluid level.
• Proceed to step 2 if the oil pan, valve body, drive
shaft, and/or torque converter has been removed or if
the oil seal has been replaced.
• Proceed to step 3 if oil leakage has been repaired and
if the oil cooler and cooler hose have been removed.
2. FILL TRANSAXLE PAN WITH FLUID
(a) Remove the engine under cover LH.
(b) Remove the engine under cover RH.
(c) Remove the under front fender apron seal RH.
(d) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug.
(e) Fill the transaxle through the refill hole until fluid
begins to trickle out of the overflow tube.
(f) Temporarily install the overflow plug.
3. FILL TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID
(a) Fill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid - 3.0 US quart for Pan and drain removal
HINT:
If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the
following:
(1) Temporarily install the refill plug.
(2) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning
OFF.
(3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range
to circulate fluid.
(4) Move the shift lever to the P position.
(5) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling.
(6) Stop the engine.
(7) Remove the refill plug and add fluid.
(8) Reinstall the refill plug.
(b) Temporarily install the refill plug to avoid fluid
splash.
4. CIRCULATE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
(a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning
OFF.
(b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to
circulate the fluid.
5. CHECK FLUID TEMPERATURE
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature should be less than 40C
(104F) before beginning the fluid temperature
check.
(1) Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the
DLC3 (OBD2 connector under steering wheel) using a small Paper Clip to jump PIN 4 and 13 together
(2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N
and D at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds.
(3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter
comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid
temperature is within the appropriate
temperature range.
(4) The D shift indicator will come on again when
the fluid temperature reaches 40C (104F)
and will blink when it exceeds 45C (113F).
(5) After confirming that the D shift indicator turns
off, move the shift lever to the P position and
remove the SST from terminals CG and TC.3
6. CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 40C (104F)
and 45C (113F) to accurately check the fluid level.
(a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling.
(b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7.
If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a
trickle and proceed to step 8.
7. ADD FLUID
(a) Install the overflow plug.
(b) Remove the refill plug.
(c) Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug.
(d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle.
(e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
(f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
(g) Stop the engine.
8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION
(a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf)
(b) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
Done
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Last edited by Black73; 05-12-2014 at 04:37 PM.
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post #9 of 294 Old 08-27-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black73 View Post
My 2010 Camry I4 6speed does have a drain plug/overflow plug.

You can drain about 2 quart out of it. You remove the overflow flug first with the 6mm hex, and using same 6mm, turn out the overflow tube up in where plug came out.

Hope this clears things up.

Temperature Check is built into the PCM here is how\/\/

1. BEFORE FILLING TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID
This transaxle requires Genuine ATF WS
transmission fluid.
After servicing the transaxle, you must refill the
transaxle with the correct amount of fluid.
Maintain the vehicle in a horizontal position while
adjusting fluid level.
Proceed to step 2 if the oil pan, valve body, drive
shaft, and/or torque converter has been removed or if
the oil seal has been replaced.
Proceed to step 3 if oil leakage has been repaired and
if the oil cooler and cooler hose have been removed.
2. FILL TRANSAXLE PAN WITH FLUID
(a) Remove the engine under cover LH.
(b) Remove the engine under cover RH.
(c) Remove the under front fender apron seal RH.
(d) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug.
(e) Fill the transaxle through the refill hole until fluid
begins to trickle out of the overflow tube.
(f) Temporarily install the overflow plug.
3. FILL TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID
(a) Fill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid - 3.0 US quart for Pan and drain removal
HINT:
If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the
following:
(1) Temporarily install the refill plug.
(2) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning
OFF.
(3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range
to circulate fluid.
(4) Move the shift lever to the P position.
(5) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling.
(6) Stop the engine.
(7) Remove the refill plug and add fluid.
(8) Reinstall the refill plug.
(b) Temporarily install the refill plug to avoid fluid
splash.
4. CIRCULATE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
(a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning
OFF.
(b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to
circulate the fluid.
5. CHECK FLUID TEMPERATURE
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature should be less than 40C
(104F) before beginning the fluid temperature
check.
(1) Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the
DLC3 (OBD2 connector under steering wheel) using a small Paper Clip to jump PIN 4 and 13 together
(2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N
and D at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds.
(3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter
comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid
temperature is within the appropriate
temperature range.
(4) The D shift indicator will come on again when
the fluid temperature reaches 40C (104F)
and will blink when it exceeds 45C (113F).
(5) After confirming that the D shift indicator turns
off, move the shift lever to the P position and
remove the SST from terminals CG and TC.3
6. CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 40C (104F)
and 45C (113F) to accurately check the fluid level.
(a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling.
(b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7.
If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a
trickle and proceed to step 8.
7. ADD FLUID
(a) Install the overflow plug.
(b) Remove the refill plug.
(c) Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug.
(d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle.
(e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
(f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
(g) Stop the engine.
8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION
(a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf)
(b) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
Done
Short of adding the paperclip method (which I didn't initially find as they want you to use Techstream to place the transmission into Inspection mode) you described the identical procedure.

I will add the paperclip method to the DIY for those that don't want to use a temp gun.

I wil reiterate that the plug is not a drain plug as the transmission will not drain completely. As an example if you turned on my 2009 Camry with a dipstick and opened to drain plug I would lose all the fluid eventually. If you did the same thing on a U660E/U760E transmission you would not. It will only drain a small amount of fluid out and can be opened while the vehicle is running.

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post #10 of 294 Old 09-22-2013, 12:30 PM
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Oustanding work hardtopte72. I appreciate your taking the time. For now I'm blessed with the dipstick-equipped '06 Avalon, but my wife may have here eyes on one of the newer models. This will come in handy.

The 100,000 mile transmission fluid change interval(not sure if it still applies) is pure bunk. I drained the WS on a dipstick-equipped '07 Camry 4 cyl a few weeks ago with 36K on the clock. Was surprised at what the fluid looked like. No way it would have made it to 100K.

Like you, I maintain and drive 'til the wheels fall off. Toyota creates these intervals as marketing tools for those who prefer car payments to maintainenace.
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post #11 of 294 Old 09-24-2013, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Murrell View Post
Oustanding work hardtopte72. I appreciate your taking the time. For now I'm blessed with the dipstick-equipped '06 Avalon, but my wife may have here eyes on one of the newer models. This will come in handy.

The 100,000 mile transmission fluid change interval(not sure if it still applies) is pure bunk. I drained the WS on a dipstick-equipped '07 Camry 4 cyl a few weeks ago with 36K on the clock. Was surprised at what the fluid looked like. No way it would have made it to 100K.

Like you, I maintain and drive 'til the wheels fall off. Toyota creates these intervals as marketing tools for those who prefer car payments to maintainenace.
My take mirrors yours. My dipstick equipped LE was terrible and had a horrible hard shift.
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post #12 of 294 Old 11-20-2013, 11:36 PM
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Thanks for the article! Today, I saved myself approx. $300.00 by getting down and dirty! I only drained and refilled with 4 quarts.

According to Toyota's instructions, the torque specification for overflow/drain and refill plugs should be 36 ft*lbf not 30 ft*lbf. I had mine torqued down to 30 and am wondering if I will get any leaks. I did not use new gaskets but I will the next the time around when the car hits 100k (currently at 62k miles).
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I am preparing to do this myself. However, I am a firm believer in changing out the filter (or strainer as Toyota insists on calling it). I received my new, OEM filter today, and there is definitely a paper element used to do the filtering. Clearly how someone maintains their car is up to them, but I believe it's worth the trouble to drop the pan when doing this procedure and changing out the filter too. I don't know why Toyota insists on telling people not to maintain their transmission, other than for the repeat business.
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post #14 of 294 Old 03-04-2014, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandaman View Post
I am preparing to do this myself. However, I am a firm believer in changing out the filter (or strainer as Toyota insists on calling it). I received my new, OEM filter today, and there is definitely a paper element used to do the filtering. Clearly how someone maintains their car is up to them, but I believe it's worth the trouble to drop the pan when doing this procedure and changing out the filter too. I don't know why Toyota insists on telling people not to maintain their transmission, other than for the repeat business.
I'll probably do the filter at 100K and do a good inspection.

There is definitely value in doing a filter. I have done a lot recently and will do my Camry at 130K just for convenience.

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Just want to share my quick test to activate temp detection mode using a paper clip. Might help others. I did a quick test of activating temp detection mode on a 2011 camry 2.5(ARFE) with U760E transmission to verify the process. If you are to do work on your car - "Do at your own risk and I am not responsible for any casualty." My note is to extend a bit on activating temp detection mode from my experience. I would say read the excellent instructions provided by hardtopte72 and understand things a bit detail before you do anything.

1. Turn off AC/Radio/Lights and remove any accessory attached to power outlet.
2. connect Terminal 4 and 13 (terminals CG (4) and TC (13)) as explain by
hardtopte72.
3. press brake and start the car. (Note that you will find a number of lights on the panel will blink - Don't panic. This proof that your connection is good - initially I got a bit freaked out and thought I screwed up. )
5. Now Move the shift lever between N and D back and forth for at least 6 or more sec at 1.5 sec interval time - do not pause interval time more than 1.5 sec. Your D indicator will turn on for 2 sec to show your car is in temp detection mode.
Note that You should follow at N -> D ->N Sequence. So when done shifting your lever will end at N and you will see D indicator turn on for 2 sec. If your shift lever final stop at D you will get confused if the D light is on for 2 sec at the end of this step.


6. Move the shift lever to P.
(Note that if your outside temp is already high enough or if transmission oil is hot from previous driving your D shift indicator at this stage may keep illuminated or blinking - as it happened in my first attempt. That means you need to let the car cool down more.)
7. Take the connector or paper clip off while engine is running. (You are still in temp detection mode after taking the clip off while engine is running. You need to take the clip off otherwise engine rpm will change and fluid adjustment will get troubled. Temp detection mode will be disable only when you stop the engine.)
8. When the temp climb upto correct range - D indicator light will turn on again and stay on.
(This is the stage where you need perform drain and refill part - follow the above example process by hardtopte72).
9. You need to do the adjustment while the car is idling. So it has to be quick. and I believe its not possible to do it one attempt.
10. Once D shifter indicator start blinking - means your temp is above recommended range. So you have to stop the engine and wait for temp to come down and redo the whole process. Because once the engine is stopped the previous temp detection mode is de-activated. So need to start from the beginning(step 1).

Three things need to remember -
D - on for 2 sec and goes off- means your car is in temp detection mode and your temp is below range. let the car idle and get it within range.
D - turned on constantly - means temp is within recommended range to do fluid adjustment.
D - blinking. -- means temp is above range and stop the process.
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Last edited by jack07; 05-11-2014 at 11:22 PM.
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