I decided to finally get around to posting a DIY for the filter replacement and flush on a 2002-2009 Camry and 2004-2008 Solara 4 speed and 5 speed U series automatic transmission. This procedure should apply identically to Highlander, Rav4, Sienna, Lexus ES, Lexus RX, Avalon or other Toyota transmission with this setup.
Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.
Tools and Parts needed:
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 19mm shallow well socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 17mm deep well socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 10mm socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 10mm hex socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive ratchet
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive extension (3 or 6 inch)
10mm wrench boxed end or combination wrench (ratcheting type preferred)
Flat head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers or angle nose pliers
Hose pliers or a very small pocket flat head screwdriver
3/8 Inch or 7/16 Inch Rubber ATF Cooler Hose Section (1-2 feet)
Measuring container or jug to measure roughly 1 quart of fluid (I used the graduation lines of a 5 quart Mobil 1 jug)
Funnel to fit into dipstick tube
Brake parts cleaner
New splash shield clips (if necessary)
New drain plug gasket (if necessary)
Rags or towels
12 quarts of ATF:
2002-2006 T-IV Compatible
2007-2009 WS Compatible
Transmission Filter Kit (Filter, Gasket, O-Ring)
For a more complete listing of compatible ATF Fluids and Transmission Filter part numbers, please consult the Maintenance Sticky below:
Other Part numbers:
Splash shield clips: 90467-07214. Buy from clipsandfasteners.com and save some coin.
Drain plug gasket: 18mm 90430-18008 (fits almost every single Toyota transmission all the way back to the 90's). If you need a lot you can buy Dorman 095-149 from Amazon and save money from the dealer price.
Note: Having a helper here is highly recommended but not required.
1. Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake and place the selector in park. Shut engine off and open the hood.
2. Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands. I like to use the nub located on the front subframe to jack in the front. The nub is located about center of the car. Lower the car onto jack stands on the pinch welds or frame rails.
3. Remove the driver side lower splash shield. Depending on who has worked on your car previously or any kind of curbs you may have hit some of these may be missing. Here is when it would be a good idea to have extra clips handy (I broke 2). Using your flat head screwdriver remove the 3 push clips holding the splash shield by prying out the center section and removing the clip. Remove the 5 10mm screws securing the splash shield and small mud guard piece to the car and remove the splash shield and mud guard.
4. Drain the transmission pan. Set your drain pan in place and using your 10mm hex head socket and ratchet loosen and remove the transmission drain plug. If this is your first time doing this you can reuse the drain plug gasket, if not it is adviseable to replace the gasket. When draining is complete be sure to reinstall the drain plug with gasket. You will not need to touch this again for the remainder of this job. This plug needs to be tight but be sure not strip it. Snug it down well.
Warning: Transmission fluid may be hot and can cause burns or injury.
5. Remove the driver side inner splash shield. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Remove the inner splash shield by removing the 2 10mm bolts using your 10mm socket and ratchet or impact and 1 plastic clip by depressing the center of the clip down until it unlocks and then using your fingers or screwdriver to remove the clip. Remove the inner splash shield from the vehicle. It may also be wise to remove the wheel here for even more room.
6. Remove the nuts securing the drivers side transmission mount. Using your screwdriver pop out the hole covers for the lower mount studs. Then using your ratchet, 17mm socket, and extension remove the 3 17mm nuts from the transmission mount. 2 are under the stud covers and one is exposed under the mount. Finally using your ratchet and 19mm socket, remove the upper nut securing the transmission mount to the transmission.
7. Raise transmission. Place your jack under the differential case of the transmission and lift the transmission as high as it will go before lifing the body off the jack stands. If the mount goes up with the jack lower the mount down to its rest position with your hands.
8. Remove the transmission pan. Using your ratchet, 10mm socket, and extensions remove all the bolts securing the pan that you can reach (should be 18 bolts total). Then using your 10mm wrench remove the remaining hard to reach bolts from the over the front subframe and transmission mount. While supporting the pan with one hand, using your screwdriver GENTLY pry the transmission pan away from the transmission and remove it from the vehicle.
Caution: Prying without all the bolts removed or in the wrong area can gouge the gasket surface or bend the pan.
Note: Transmission fluid will continue to drip from the valve body, case, and filter, it is wise to leave newspapers or a drain pan in place to soak up any spills.
9. Remove the transmission filter. Using your ratchet and 10mm socket remove the 3 bolts securing the transmission filter to the valve body. Pry the filter away from the valve body with your hands. Remove the old o-ring if still attached to the valve body gently using your screwdriver.
Below you can see the difference between the 4 speed and 5 speed filters. Everything else in the kit is the same between both.
This is the inside of the old OEM Filtran filter. Honestly it wasn't too bad inside.