DIY Gen 5 and Gen 6 Camry / Gen 2 Solara Trans Filter Change and Fluid Flush w/PICS! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008) Toyota Camry Discussion for years 2002-2006 & 2007-2011, as well as Solara Discussion for years 2004-2008. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #1 of 142 Old 06-13-2014, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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DIY Gen 5 and Gen 6 Camry / Gen 2 Solara Trans Filter Change and Fluid Flush w/PICS!

I decided to finally get around to posting a DIY for the filter replacement and flush on a 2002-2009 Camry and 2004-2008 Solara 4 speed and 5 speed U series automatic transmission. This procedure should apply identically to Highlander, Rav4, Sienna, Lexus ES, Lexus RX, Avalon or other Toyota transmission with this setup.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.

Tools and Parts needed:

1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 19mm shallow well socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 17mm deep well socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 10mm socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive 10mm hex socket
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive ratchet
1/2 inch or 3/8 drive extension (3 or 6 inch)
10mm wrench boxed end or combination wrench (ratcheting type preferred)
Flat head screwdriver
Needle nose pliers or angle nose pliers
Hose pliers or a very small pocket flat head screwdriver
3/8 Inch or 7/16 Inch Rubber ATF Cooler Hose Section (1-2 feet)
Drain pan
Measuring container or jug to measure roughly 1 quart of fluid (I used the graduation lines of a 5 quart Mobil 1 jug)
Jack
Jack Stands
Funnel to fit into dipstick tube
Brake parts cleaner
Gloves
New splash shield clips (if necessary)
New drain plug gasket (if necessary)
Rags or towels
12 quarts of ATF:
2002-2006 T-IV Compatible
2007-2009 WS Compatible
Transmission Filter Kit (Filter, Gasket, O-Ring)

For a more complete listing of compatible ATF Fluids and Transmission Filter part numbers, please consult the Maintenance Sticky below:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-thread.html

Other Part numbers:

Splash shield clips: 90467-07214. Buy from clipsandfasteners.com and save some coin.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Toy...s_p/a21294.htm

Drain plug gasket: 18mm 90430-18008 (fits almost every single Toyota transmission all the way back to the 90's). If you need a lot you can buy Dorman 095-149 from Amazon and save money from the dealer price.

Note: Having a helper here is highly recommended but not required.

1. Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake and place the selector in park. Shut engine off and open the hood.



2. Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands. I like to use the nub located on the front subframe to jack in the front. The nub is located about center of the car. Lower the car onto jack stands on the pinch welds or frame rails.




3. Remove the driver side lower splash shield. Depending on who has worked on your car previously or any kind of curbs you may have hit some of these may be missing. Here is when it would be a good idea to have extra clips handy (I broke 2). Using your flat head screwdriver remove the 3 push clips holding the splash shield by prying out the center section and removing the clip. Remove the 5 10mm screws securing the splash shield and small mud guard piece to the car and remove the splash shield and mud guard.



4. Drain the transmission pan. Set your drain pan in place and using your 10mm hex head socket and ratchet loosen and remove the transmission drain plug. If this is your first time doing this you can reuse the drain plug gasket, if not it is adviseable to replace the gasket. When draining is complete be sure to reinstall the drain plug with gasket. You will not need to touch this again for the remainder of this job. This plug needs to be tight but be sure not strip it. Snug it down well.

Warning: Transmission fluid may be hot and can cause burns or injury.



5. Remove the driver side inner splash shield. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Remove the inner splash shield by removing the 2 10mm bolts using your 10mm socket and ratchet or impact and 1 plastic clip by depressing the center of the clip down until it unlocks and then using your fingers or screwdriver to remove the clip. Remove the inner splash shield from the vehicle. It may also be wise to remove the wheel here for even more room.



6. Remove the nuts securing the drivers side transmission mount. Using your screwdriver pop out the hole covers for the lower mount studs. Then using your ratchet, 17mm socket, and extension remove the 3 17mm nuts from the transmission mount. 2 are under the stud covers and one is exposed under the mount. Finally using your ratchet and 19mm socket, remove the upper nut securing the transmission mount to the transmission.



7. Raise transmission. Place your jack under the differential case of the transmission and lift the transmission as high as it will go before lifing the body off the jack stands. If the mount goes up with the jack lower the mount down to its rest position with your hands.



8. Remove the transmission pan. Using your ratchet, 10mm socket, and extensions remove all the bolts securing the pan that you can reach (should be 18 bolts total). Then using your 10mm wrench remove the remaining hard to reach bolts from the over the front subframe and transmission mount. While supporting the pan with one hand, using your screwdriver GENTLY pry the transmission pan away from the transmission and remove it from the vehicle.



Caution: Prying without all the bolts removed or in the wrong area can gouge the gasket surface or bend the pan.

Note: Transmission fluid will continue to drip from the valve body, case, and filter, it is wise to leave newspapers or a drain pan in place to soak up any spills.

9. Remove the transmission filter. Using your ratchet and 10mm socket remove the 3 bolts securing the transmission filter to the valve body. Pry the filter away from the valve body with your hands. Remove the old o-ring if still attached to the valve body gently using your screwdriver.



Below you can see the difference between the 4 speed and 5 speed filters. Everything else in the kit is the same between both.



This is the inside of the old OEM Filtran filter. Honestly it wasn't too bad inside.

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My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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Last edited by hardtopte72; 04-18-2017 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Update, Cleanup, Error Corrections
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post #2 of 142 Old 06-13-2014, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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10. Clean the transmission pan and magnets. Remove the old gasket from the transmission pan. Remove the magnets from the pan and using your rags or towels wipe away all the build-up from the magnets. Then using your brake parts cleaner and rags or towels wipe away and residue or buildup from the transmission pan. Reinstall the magnets into the designated areas on the transmission pan.



11. Temporarily install the new transmission pan gasket onto the transmission pan. Using 2-3 bolts in easy to reach areas and on opposite sides thread the bolts through the bottom of the pan and into the gasket a few threads.



Note: If using aftermarket kits, the holes are undersized to allow for securing the gasket to the pan for install. If using an OEM gasket simply slide a bolt through the hole.

12. Install the new transmission filter into the valve body. Attach the new o-ring to the filter and press the filter into the valve body until the o-ring is fully seated. Reinstall the transmission filter bolts and tighten them snugly (I don't have the torque spec).



13. Reinstall the transmission pan. Clean the gasket mating surface and scrape away and old gasket material if any. Temporarily install the transmission pan using the 2-3 bolts you previously threaded into the gasket in step 11. Begin loosely installing the remaining bolts that secure the transmission pan to the transmission. Once all bolts are installed tighten all 18 transmission pan bolts in 2-3 passes using the star or cross pattern. You will need to use your 10mm wrench again to secure the 5 hard to reach bolts. Once all bolts are tightened in the star or cross pattern, do one final pass to verify even tightening of the pan.



Caution: BE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU INSTALLED YOUR MAGNETS BEFORE INSTALLING THE PAN. (Guess how I know!)

Note: Do not seat any bolts against the pan until all bolts have been installed and the gasket holes are all relatively straight.

Caution: I tighten the pan bolts until the point that the gasket ever so slightly begins to compress near the bolt hole. Over tightening the bolts will result in splitting the gasket and causing a leak.

14. Reinstall the transmission mount nuts. Lower the jack securing your transmission and lower down. Then reinstall and tighten the three 17mm nuts and one 19mm nut securing the transmission mount to the subframe and transmission. I snugged these tight. The upper 19mm should be made very tight but be careful not to break it. The other 3 should be good and snug as well.



15. Remove the transmission return hose from the radiator. Locate the cooler hoses which are located on the radiator. The return hose is towards the driver side and the supply hose is towards the passenger side. In my experience, this is true for all Camry models dating back to at least Gen 3. To verify which outlet is the correct return hose outlet, remove both hoses from the radiator/transmission cooler outlets and set them into a bucket. Briefly start the engine for around 2-3 seconds and observe the hoses. The hose that has fluid pumping out is the supply hose and the hose that does not is the return hose. Then reconnect the supply hose to the cooler supply hose outlet and attach your hose section to the cooler return hose outlet..

To remove the hoses, using your needle nose pliers depress the ears of the hose clamp and slide the clamp down the hose (angled needle nose are priceless here). Using your hose pliers or very small pocket screwdriver break the hose and line seal and slide the hose off of the line. Next attach your section of 3/8" or 7/16" hose to the cooler return hose outlet.

Note: Some posters have commented that on the Gen 5 Camry, the return hose outlet is located toward the driver side and on the Gen 6 Camry, it is located toward the passenger side. I have not verified the difference, and as of this writing, the return hose outlet should be toward the driver side for both Gen 5 and Gen 6 models. To verify for sure, use the procedure above.



16. Fill the transmission with roughly the same amount of fluid you took out (4.7 quarts in this case). Remove the transmission dipstick and using your funnel fill the transmission through the dipstick tube then reinstall the dipstick.



Warning: The transmission dipstick is located very close the positive battery terminal. Be sure the battery terminal is completely covered with it's cover or a rag and ensure the dipstick does not contact the battery post to prevent arcing.

17. Pump out one quart of old transmission fluid. After ensuring the hose on your outlet is well inside your suitable drain container start the engine and allow the transmission to pump out a bit less than 1 quart of fluid. When it is about there shut off the engine. You will notice that in the time period after you shut off the engine, the hose will lose a small amount more fluid. This is where a helper is valuable.

Note: The transmission pumps fluid at a relatively easy rate. You are not in danger of pumping out all of your fluid unless you are not paying attention.



18. Fill the transmission with exactly 1 quart of fluid.

19. Repeat steps 17-18 approximately 5-6 more times (total of around 10 quarts pumped out and filled). You will notice by around the 8th quart, the fluid being pumped out will look brand new. The 11th and 12th quarts are there to top off if you were a little off after the test drive.

20. Reinstall the transmission return hose onto the radiator. Remove the 3/8" or 7/16" hose section from the radiator outlet then slide the return hose onto the radiator outlet and using your needle nose pliers reinstall the hose clamp into its original position.

21. Reinstall the driver side lower splash shield. First using your brake parts cleaner liberally spray and clean the transmission fluid from under the car. Set the splash shield into position (remember that at the front of the splash shield/bumper area the splash shield extensions go under the bumper. Install your 3 clips and 5 screws. Remove the drain pan from under the car.



Note: On Gen 6 Camry be sure the the mud guard piece goes on the outside towards the wheel area.

22. Reinstall the driver side inner splash shield. First using your brake parts cleaner liberally spray and clean the transmission fluid from under the car. Position the splash shield inside the inner fender liner and reinstall the splash shield clip and 2 10mm bolts. To reset the clip you will need to push the center section back out past the flush position using your fingers. Then insert the clip and depress the center until it is flush.

23. Lower the vehicle off of jack stands.

24. Go for a good long test drive of at least 15 minutes and try to get the vehicle up at highway speed.

25. Park the vehicle on a level surface and with the engine running and brake pedal depressed cycle the vehicle through all gears several times. Then set the parking brake and open the hood. With the vehicle running check the transmission fluid level. The fluid should be somewhere between the center of the COLD and HOT mark up to the HOT mark. Top off fluid as necessary and reinstall the dipstick.

Warning: The transmission dipstick is located very close the positive battery terminal. Be sure the battery terminal is completely covered with it's cover or a rag and ensure the dipstick does not contact the battery post to prevent arcing.

26. Admire your work and money you saved. Total cost for this job was roughly $75. Total cost for this would likely be somewhere around $500.

Hope this helps.
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1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.

Last edited by hardtopte72; 07-28-2016 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Update, Cleanup, Error Corrections
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post #3 of 142 Old 08-21-2014, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Changed the filter on my car today. Here are some pics of my 130K mile OEM felt filter.

It was in great shape and appears it could have gone much much longer. Barely any debris at all in it however I do good regular fluid maintenance.


My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
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post #4 of 142 Old 08-22-2014, 12:40 PM
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This DIY is priceless!!!

Thank you hardtopte.

Smart move on removing transmission mounts by the way.

Sam
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post #5 of 142 Old 08-24-2014, 01:26 AM
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Thanks hardtopte72.

Sorry but I have never seen the bottom of my Camry 2006 so my question may sound stupid . But is it necessary to perform step 5 to 6? Is the transmission mount in the way which is preventing you from removing the transmission pan?
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post #6 of 142 Old 08-24-2014, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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The transmission mount hides 3-4 bolts. I used to have a wrench that allowed me to remove them without touching the mount.

Basically you have to move the mount.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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post #7 of 142 Old 08-26-2014, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtopte72 View Post
The transmission mount hides 3-4 bolts. I used to have a wrench that allowed me to remove them without touching the mount.

Basically you have to move the mount.
Thanks. What kind of a wrench would allow me to get to those 3 to 4 bolts without loosening the transmission mount? The whole point of the jack is to lift up the whole transmission such that I can reach those hard to reach bolts of the pan right?

My understanding is that the hard-to-reach bolts of the pan are right above/near the transmission mount, is that correct? An offset-wrench or some joint for the ratchet might do the trick?

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post #8 of 142 Old 08-26-2014, 01:57 AM
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Nice write up, wish I had taken the time to look it up when I did mine haha... Just so everyone knows, it is possible to do this without removing the trans mount. However, you won't be able to fit a torque wrench to tighten them accordingly..
When I did mine, I used a 10mm wrench. They were a pain in the ass to remove and put back on as there's no room there. But, with patience it's doable.
Either way, nice work hardtopte72!

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post #9 of 142 Old 08-26-2014, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbgunner View Post
Thanks. What kind of a wrench would allow me to get to those 3 to 4 bolts without loosening the transmission mount? The whole point of the jack is to lift up the whole transmission such that I can reach those hard to reach bolts of the pan right?

My understanding is that the hard-to-reach bolts of the pan are right above/near the transmission mount, is that correct? An offset-wrench or some joint for the ratchet might do the trick?
I used to have a 4 in 1 ratcheting box end gear wrench that had a lip extension for all the sizes. This allowed the wrench to grab on the bolt that otherwise would have stripped. The wrench broke. Keep in mind, even with that tool it is a PITA.

Remove the 4 mount nuts and jacking it up is a million times easier.You jack up the transmission to separate it from the mount. Jacking up the transmission with the mount attached will only lift the entire car up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by midnitevil View Post
Nice write up, wish I had taken the time to look it up when I did mine haha... Just so everyone knows, it is possible to do this without removing the trans mount. However, you won't be able to fit a torque wrench to tighten them accordingly..
When I did mine, I used a 10mm wrench. They were a pain in the ass to remove and put back on as there's no room there. But, with patience it's doable.
Either way, nice work hardtopte72!
Yup, I have tools and time. Though on my Camry losing one nut in the subframe for over an hour cost me.
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1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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post #10 of 142 Old 10-04-2014, 08:14 PM
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Awesome write up, but damn this makes me feel sick to think of doing all that. When I pulled the driver side cv axle a fair amount of dark fluid came pouring out, so I know I need to at minimum replace fluid. Sounds like I need to know the exact amount. considering the fluid is so dark (177k on the car, never had the fluid replaced that I can recall) I suppose I should do all this.

I note you opted out of Toyota WS fluid and went synthetic Valvoline. No worries your tranny will turn into a zombie and eat your face off at a traffic light? What some folks seem to fear, at least it appears based on the rabid "USE ONLY WS FLUID!!!!!' posts I have seen.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFCamry View Post
Awesome write up, but damn this makes me feel sick to think of doing all that. When I pulled the driver side cv axle a fair amount of dark fluid came pouring out, so I know I need to at minimum replace fluid. Sounds like I need to know the exact amount. considering the fluid is so dark (177k on the car, never had the fluid replaced that I can recall) I suppose I should do all this.

I note you opted out of Toyota WS fluid and went synthetic Valvoline. No worries your tranny will turn into a zombie and eat your face off at a traffic light? What some folks seem to fear, at least it appears based on the rabid "USE ONLY WS FLUID!!!!!' posts I have seen.
Maxlife is just fine. I have been using Maxlife for around 40K miles now with no issues. I also used it in a Toyota AB60E (2008 Tundra) and 2 U660E (2007 and 2008 Camry V6) with great results.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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post #12 of 142 Old 10-05-2014, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtopte72 View Post
Maxlife is just fine. I have been using Maxlife for around 40K miles now with no issues. I also used it in a Toyota AB60E (2008 Tundra) and 2 U660E (2007 and 2008 Camry V6) with great results.
I just topped mine off with the same. Lost about 30 oz in this axle replacement job, almost all from the driver side axle. That pull, I think it would drain the tranny if you let it go. THanks for the info here, as it led me to grab the same ATF and top it off. That stuff smells to high hell!

Camry Mod

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post #13 of 142 Old 11-11-2014, 04:51 PM
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Some Torques U250E

Great Write up/Pics. Gives me confidence to tackle the job (summer - 2015).


Here are the torques:
Oil Pan bolts(18) Torque:7.8 N.m (80 kgf.cm, 69in.lbf)
OIL strainer (3 bolts) Torque: 11 N.m (110 kgf.cm, 8 ft.lbf)
Drain Plug with new Gasket Torque: 49 N.m (500kgf.cm, 36ft.lbf)
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Last edited by oyot; 11-11-2014 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Add transmission model #
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post #14 of 142 Old 02-10-2015, 08:52 AM
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Any torque specs on the three 17mm and one 19mm transmission mounting nuts?
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post #15 of 142 Old 02-14-2015, 02:45 PM
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Did this job today on my 06 Highlander Limited with 108850 miles. Picked this vehicle up about 3 weeks ago and have been getting the maintenance up to date. TB/MAF clean, PCV valve replace, power steering fluid flush, etc.

Thanks so much for this tutorial! The job went really smooth. The old fluid, filter, magnets and pan were very dirty. Pretty sure it had never been changed. Fluid looks good now.

I'm not sure how you would do this job without removing the mounting nuts and raising the transmission. Even with the extra clearance, those 3 pan bolts are tough to get to.

I went with 55 lb ft torque for the 17mm and 19 mm nuts.

Next up, spark plugs. They are original so it's time for some new ones. Does anyone know if the valve cover gaskets on the 3MZ-FE are prone to leaking like the 1MZ-FE? I have an 02 Camry XLE and I had to do that job with the extra washers for the bolts. Just wondering if I should do the gaskets along with the plugs seeing as the plenum has to come off.
hardtopte72 likes this.

Last edited by cookiebaggs; 02-14-2015 at 03:37 PM.
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  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > Camry 5th & 6th Gen (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)/2nd Gen Solara (2004-2008)

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