check hybrid system and vcs - Page 31 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry Hybrid Discussion area for the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving Americas favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #451 of 505 Old 03-21-2016, 03:55 PM
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they probably will go out of business if they're selling crap batteries or have service like that, I'd recommend selling the car (3x is really bad luck)

i suspect something electrical is wrong with your car that the traction battery don't last or it could be that green tec just selling you bad batteries 3x in a row, you have to find out yourself. there's always that dealer option if you really love the car. I think green tec just sells and replace the batteries, they don't diagnose your car for issues.
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post #452 of 505 Old 07-06-2016, 04:31 PM
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NZ Flag Camry Hybrid Check Hybrid System Warning

I have 2011 Camry Hybrid.
Issues:
1.Check hybrid system warning coming on intermittently and car goes into a "Home" mode with very reduced acceleration.
2. Dealer says all systems check out fine
3. System is reset by dealer and system reverts to normal operation
4. Error code has now appeared suggesting replacement of Hybrid Battery but dealer doesn't think that is required
5. One of the cells shows a small drop in charge at the time of fault occuring
6. Dealers unable to explain what is causing this.
ANY THOUGHTS...
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post #453 of 505 Old 07-07-2016, 03:24 PM
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1. go to a different dealer
2. check out 12V battery. MANY fool lights were caused by failing 12V
3. consider replacing bad cell in battery. Several folks here had it done
4. consider cleaning bus connections on traction battery. Been said to be miracle cure for many traction battery issues.
12V can be tested ONLY with deep cycle battery testing protocol. Autozone ain't gonna do it for you.



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post #454 of 505 Old 07-08-2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
1. go to a different dealer
What ukrkoz said!
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post #455 of 505 Old 07-08-2016, 09:20 AM
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The individual blocks (comprised of 2 cells) dropping slightly is exactly what sets the code. You likely have one cell that is defective. To really see what is going on, you have to monitor the blocks while the ICE is off and not charging, car in ready. With no power going back in, the cells are loaded and drop voltage. At that point, a difference of as little as .5V can set a defect code. Usually, it is 1V or more, absolutely indicating a defective cell. Although corrosion has definitely been an issue, I have not seen a specific block reading low as a result of corrosion. In every case I have been involved in (dozens....) if one block reads low, one of the cells has failed. I take that back, I have seen one instance in which a broken connector caused a problem, but I have still not figured out how that happened, and it sets a different code entirely. In a good battery pack, the voltages will not vary by more than .2V or so.

I agree, that dealer sounds very inexperienced in this, which is very surprising!
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post #456 of 505 Old 07-08-2016, 06:24 PM
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Dealer is neither. Dealership simply did not invest into having a tech sent to hybrid training and investing into proper testing equipment.



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post #457 of 505 Old 07-10-2016, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
Dealership simply did not invest into having a tech sent to hybrid training and investing into proper testing equipment.
Actually, the dealer has no choice when it comes to certain equipment. One of them is the Techstream, a laptop-based diagnosis tool. They are shipped to the dealers in a program we referred to as "force feed." It just shows up and you get to pay for it. That laptop/program will access any system on the car, and the hybrid system to about 3 levels. Training of the technicians is a little more sketchy, but the dealers are put under tremendous pressure to keep at least a master tech (which requires hybrid training) or a master diagnostic tech, which entails even more.

Since the hybrid battery is under warranty for 8 years/100K miles, it is more likely that the dealer didn't want to give away warranty money to that job. Even that doesn't make much sense, since the dealer gets paid to replace the defective battery. As long as the software and freeze-frame supported the battery replacement, they would get their money even if it didn't completely repair the car.

Any way you cut it, it doesn't add up to me.

Bottom line is still the same.... have it checked by a different dealer.
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post #458 of 505 Old 10-28-2016, 12:40 AM
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Check Charging System,Steering Locked

I'm having a recurring problem with my 2015 Camry Hybrid. The hybrid system refuses to start, and two messages display: "Check Charging System" and "Steering Locked". This has happened four times so far in 3 months, and each time the system works again after about 5 minutes and 4 or 5 tries. Each time, I had gotten out of the car and re-entered before I have the final, successful start. It hasn't (yet) stranded me for more than 5 minutes or so.

I started to think it was the 12V battery voltage dipping too low, but now am fairly sure I can eliminate that as the cause. After the third failure, I used an Arduino to log battery voltage, and this was connected and recording when the forth failure occurred. I was surprised to see that the voltage did not drop below 12V during the forth failure. In the data I've collected, I occasionally see voltages spike below 11 volts without bad behavior. The logs usually show a 12.6-ish voltage before start, then a dip when the fuel pump runs, an initial charge voltage in the 13's, and a step up to the final steady charge voltage of about 14.3V that continues until the car is turned off.

I brought the car to Toyota and they said the battery and charging system checked out fine. I had the battery tested at another shop and it passed there too.
There was a recall on the electric steering modules on some 2015's, but I have not received a letter.
I thought I'd post it in case this sounds familiar to anyone, and there may be a solution.
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post #459 of 505 Old 10-29-2016, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam2015hyb View Post
I'm having a recurring problem with my 2015 Camry Hybrid. The hybrid system refuses to start, and two messages display: "Check Charging System" and "Steering Locked". This has happened four times so far in 3 months, and each time the system works again after about 5 minutes and 4 or 5 tries. Each time, I had gotten out of the car and re-entered before I have the final, successful start. It hasn't (yet) stranded me for more than 5 minutes or so.

I started to think it was the 12V battery voltage dipping too low, but now am fairly sure I can eliminate that as the cause. After the third failure, I used an Arduino to log battery voltage, and this was connected and recording when the forth failure occurred. I was surprised to see that the voltage did not drop below 12V during the forth failure. In the data I've collected, I occasionally see voltages spike below 11 volts without bad behavior. The logs usually show a 12.6-ish voltage before start, then a dip when the fuel pump runs, an initial charge voltage in the 13's, and a step up to the final steady charge voltage of about 14.3V that continues until the car is turned off.

I brought the car to Toyota and they said the battery and charging system checked out fine. I had the battery tested at another shop and it passed there too.
There was a recall on the electric steering modules on some 2015's, but I have not received a letter.
I thought I'd post it in case this sounds familiar to anyone, and there may be a solution.
Maybe you got a crappy key fob battery. Replace it and see what happens. Only a couple bucks.

Do you have 2 key fobs? If so, try the other one for a day or 2 to see if the problem represents itself again.

Don't expect anything from the dealer unless they can replicate exactly what happened.

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post #460 of 505 Old 11-07-2016, 02:46 PM
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2007 TCH - Check Hybrid System and CSV

Back in April 2016, my hybrid battery light came on with 114K miles . I immediately took it to Toyota where I learned the hybrid battery needed to be replaced for approximately $4,500.00. (code PA080). It has been 7 months since it has been diagnosed. I regularly unplug the 12V battery for approximately 10 secs before I replug it so that the light on the dashboard goes away and the car runs smoother. However, this trick only lasts a day or two before the code comes right back on. I have also noticed my gas mileage has been all over the place (from 26 mpg to 31 mpg). I also notice when the "red triangle" light is on with the message "check hybrid system", the hybrid battery continues to charge, but there's no arrow shown on the screen. Several questions I have are the following:

1. Has any of you had this issue? If so, what have you done beside forking out this large amount of money to the dealer to resolve it?

2. My hybrid battery charges up to level green just short of the last bar to make it full. Is that the max or does that mean something is definitely wrong with it?

3. I am in FL where the heat is brutal. I notice my reset method lasts longer (an extra day or two) in cooler days than hotter days. What maintenance is required for the hybrid battery? The manual does not seem to indicate any.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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post #461 of 505 Old 11-07-2016, 07:33 PM
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WHO REPLACED THE TRACTION BATTERY?????
Why do you have to go through all this bs?
Or, you simply keep driving as is? Because of the high replacement cost?
How good or BAD is your 12V battery? Is it OEM Panasonic? Dying 12V battery is known to throw all kinds of codes.
Why in the world are you removing battery terminal? That's another problem to come.
Simply pull ECM fuse overnight.
If battery logo turns GREEN you ARE at full charge. It will not turn green otherwise. The little black empty space above it is fine.



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post #462 of 505 Old 11-08-2016, 01:09 PM
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My 12V battery was tested and found to be good.

I simply unplug the 12V battery to reset the code. What problem could I be creating by doing that? it appears to be the OEM Panasonic battery. I bought the car with 108K miles to find out 6K miles later, the battery pack has issues.

Another question I have is, if the battery pack has issues would it show to be full at times on the screen?

Thanks for your input
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post #463 of 505 Old 11-08-2016, 05:11 PM
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OK.... First of all, your going about this all wrong. Use the search function and do some research! It's funny about these first post panic displays.

Do you have the report from the dealer that checked it out? What did it say? They have the ability to test the traction battery and identify problems with individual cells. They should be able to tell you based on their test EXACTLY what is wrong with the battery and where.

You need to have the codes read in detail, have them identified and then if the problem(s) point to the traction battery, it needs to be tested to determine the problem(s). Do you follow?

If you are unable or unwilling to deal with the dealer again, get on craigslist and you can find a local mobile technician that will come out and fix the battery in your front yard for under $1000. Maybe as little as $600 or less depending on how far they have to drive and what they have to do. The same tech can install a brand new battery from Toyota for under $3000 if you really want to do that.

Or you could just do it all yourself. Again... Use the search function and do some research.

Florida heat has nothing to do with it, so you can quit blaming anything on that.

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post #464 of 505 Old 11-08-2016, 06:52 PM
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Please, pull ECM fuse instead? Those cars do NOT like 12V to be simply disconnected. Esp the way you do it - every so often. It is much easier to pull the fuse anyway.

Next. HOW was battery checked? The 12V? I am stuck on this because it is 10 yo battery and it would have been a miracle for it to still be at its full function.
This is why I am asking - how was it tested? With voltmeter? Even a load test? At parts store? Same dealership? Most have no idea it's a deep cycle battery and it can NOT be tested conventional way.

Think I'm pulling your leg?

There are six simple steps in testing a deep cycle battery-inspect, recharge, remove surface charge, measure the state-of-charge, load test, and recharge.

http://www.pacificpowerbatteries.com...aq/dcfaq3.html



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post #465 of 505 Old 11-11-2016, 09:52 AM
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I have not pulled the ECM fuse since I'm out of town and do not want to be stranded. I plan on doing it this weekend while I'm home. I will report on how the car behaves.

To tell you the truth, I don't know whether this is the original battery or not. I can tell it's a Panasonic battery. Like I said previously I bought the car with 108K miles, it now has over 150K miles. The battery was tested at an Advance Auto Parts the conventional way. Perhaps I will have it tested at Toyota during my next service.

Back in Feb 2016, Toyota did not really give me any report for the diagnostic with exception of telling the battery pack needs to be replaced. The receipt attached does not contain any code. I called them two months later to ask them what was the code and that's when they told me PA080 over the phone. I don't know if I can believe this is the right code at this point. I've already paid to have it diagnosed.

I have attached pictures of the messages appeared on the dashboard along with the battery max level I've often seen it. If a few modules are defective at this point, can the car possibly show a full charged battery?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf carcondition_reduced.pdf (194.6 KB, 241 views)
File Type: pdf Toyota_mod.pdf (384.2 KB, 210 views)
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