GENERAL Camry Hybrid questions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry Hybrid Discussion area for the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving Americas favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #1 of 247 Old 04-23-2011, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission fluid change TCH

ok, nice and sunny day. had CVT WS TF changed today.

OK, because of PhtoBucket greed, I am posting link to slideshow. So far, slideshows appear to be working. You'll have to match text to pics.

http://s302.photobucket.com/user/ukr...change%20Camry

about only one word of caution:
open fill plug first. otherwise, fluid gushes out of drain plug in very uneven manner, spilling all over the place, if you do not allow air in through fill plug hole..

also, when you pop those plugs open, transmission sucks a lot of air in, and it's quite scary sound.

1. tools needed: 10mm hex head wrench. you can use socket wrench socket with it, or what i used - L shaped one; drain pan; either oil pump or long tubing with funnel that will fit in; 12mm crush washer x 2; rags and all that good stuff for cleaning. pretty basic.2. jack car securily; level position is preferred:

for barrel chested folks - there is very little clearance down there; my hydraulic jack basically ran out of height and i still could barely fit under. there was no way to turn or even to put 2 arms underneath, to hold something

3. here's suggested set - aluminum splash pan, good drain pan, oil pump, and gloves


4. here's WS (world standard) Toyota fluid; $7.42 each, total of four needed. i, also, came up with a funnel with long tubing slid over funnel and taped in place securily


5. for jobs like this, i normally use "willie the creeper" dolly, but there was no way to use it, so old rag worked fine:

6. drain anf fill plugs are located on the driver side of powertrain, right next to catalytic converter:



those are the ones with hex holes in them, lower being drain and upper/left being fill plugs.

7. takes a lot of torque to break them loose; i used box end wrench over the long hex wrench end to create leverage; cheat pipe suitable length will work; plugs pop with loud noise - don't worry, you did not break anything; once popped, after another half turn, they can be removed with fingers:


8. i can not tell if fluid came out bad; it looked slightly darker than fresh one, but did no smell very bad or had much impurities in it:


9. secure drain plug back in place; you may want to put new 12mm crush washer on it; i have very good experience with reusing original washers maybe once, so that's what i did. copper washers are the best, they do not crack like aluminum or plastic ones.

10. now it's time to refill; i ran tubing from the top down and deep into the transmission; it went in good couple inches easy; i secured funnel to the bonnet lifter and RE-CHECKED IF IT DID NOT SLIDE OUT OF TRANSMISSION!!!

11. i poured fluid in very slowly; reason being, it's thick and can easily block tubing, air gushes out, splashes all over; also, size of my tubing almost completely plugged the fill hole, so i wanted to allow air out to avoid emboli. took only about 3 minutes for 4 cans.

12. allow extra time for most of the fluid to drain down the tubing. all 4 qrts fit in, there was only minor drippage. clean everything, reinstall fill plug, torque.

13 while you there, might be a good idea to change oil. so i did.
here's oil drain plug and filter location:

also, i had cat covered with rag while filling, so that fluid does not get into it's mesh:

overall time about an hour. messiness level, with my Silverado transmission pan removal being the messiest job i have ever done, having me all covered in ATF, and graded 10 out of ten, i'd give this one maybe 3. quite simple, just a lot of dancing around with prep work.

yes, it did start and drive thereafter. so far, i can not tell any difference. but i did not drive her much anyway.

Not my car but this is what 2007 TCH fluid may look like at 120 000 miles:

O_loung1 likes this.




Last edited by ukrkoz; 06-30-2017 at 11:39 PM.
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post #2 of 247 Old 04-23-2011, 07:25 PM
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I did this this when I first bought the car (used). I was surprised when I heard the suction sound too? It is one of the easiest trans. fluid changes I have ever done. It is more like changing the oil in a diff. than a trans.

I was surprised how dirty the fluid was. It was brown but smelled ok. My reason for changing was reading up on it over at the Prius forum. It seems the the first batch of fluid carries a heavy metallic load and the changes after the first change show much better results in lab tests.

The bottom line is that it is so easy to change. There is no reason not to do it. I even hear the dealer charges a reasonable rate to change it for you.

I'm glad someone posted pics of the procedure. This will make some people happy. I looked high and low and could not find much info. on it. I wound up pumping the fluid into the trans. from below with a "outboard lower unit oil pump". I like the "funnel from above" method better!


Edit: The next time you drop the pan on the Chevy, go to your local auto parts store and pick up a "drain plug kit" for the pan. It makes the job much easier and a heck of a lot cleaner.

2008 TCH Magnetic Grey on Black
280,000 miles

1999 Tacoma Prerunner SR5 V6/auto White on Oak
235,000 miles

Last edited by snookwhaler; 04-23-2011 at 07:29 PM.
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post #3 of 247 Old 04-30-2011, 03:22 PM
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All finished! I wish I had remembered the tip about holding the plug against the hole while draining. It gushed out and made a huge mess. I saved about 2 quarts in a sterile container to have it analyzed by Blackstone labs (For minerals content, impurities, etc). A bunch of guys at prius chat did this and it's only 25 bucks. I'll post the results once I get them

NOTES:
* I have about 56,000 miles on the car, highway miles mainly, temperate New England climate.
* Fluid came out like Urkoz described, dark red but no crud or bad smell.
* Urkoz's instructions were flawless. Everything went as he said it would.
* Engine was cool, but not cold. I got a mild hissing noise as I loosened the top bolt.
* I used a hand pump to get the fluid in from below. I do NOT recommend this unless you have to. It was very tiring and made a pretty decent mess. :/



@urkoz: No oil change today. I got that handled last week. This car only sees 0w20 mobil one.
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post #4 of 247 Old 05-02-2011, 10:41 AM
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For my first work commute on the new transaxle fluid, my report is as follows:
* No noticeable difference in MPG.
* No noticeable difference in ICE start/stop smoothness.
* The "whine" from the MGs seem to be noticeably quieter than before. I am very aware of the "placebo effect" and was very hesitant to come to this conclusion, but it does seem right. I will give it a few more days in case other factors may be at work. My guess is that the significantly increased viscosity of the fluid compared to old (according to fluid analysis by priuschat folks) allows the fluid to stay on the MGs longer, muffling some of the noise. When I get my own fluid analysis results back, I will know more.


PS: I just responded the the speedo discussion in the original thread.

Last edited by andym1978; 05-02-2011 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Added "speedo" discussion note.
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post #5 of 247 Old 10-07-2011, 08:32 PM
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I'm just a bit concerned. Is it possible to get to the oil filter by removing the passenger wheel?
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post #6 of 247 Old 12-14-2011, 07:49 PM
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Hi ukrkoz...thx for your post... but I can't see any filling hole from above? Could you tell me where's the hole "hiding"?
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post #7 of 247 Old 12-14-2011, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Hi ukrkoz...thx for your post... but I can't see any filling hole from above? Could you tell me where's the hole "hiding"?
you can but you really need to know where it's at. it does not have formal bolt head, it's simple sqr head plug, same metal as casing, so it's hard to notice.
you'd be better off peeking from underneath to get good grip on where it's at.
also, you have to pop filler plug 1st anyway. when you pop it open, it's dark hole in casing, so it's easier to see.

BUT WHY? you not gonna do this job hanging down over the fender, have my word on it. you have to have her up on lift or 4 jackstands, level.



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post #8 of 247 Old 01-04-2012, 01:20 PM
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Toyota NS4 Hybrid (toyota going GREEN) Check out video.

The NS4 is a Plug-In Hybrid concept vehicle, which is an even 'greener' environment friendly vehicle. It's debuting at next week's NAIAS auto show(during Toyota’s news conference on Tuesday, January 10 at 8:45 AM). check out the video.

http://youtu.be/dTa9KW0vTS4
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post #9 of 247 Old 01-23-2012, 10:02 PM
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29ft/lbs for the drain and fill plugs.
14ft/lbs for the spark plugs.

the fill plug is at 9 'clock position, not sure what the top most part is;
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater

recommends Denso. I own Fords and they work better with OEM plugs

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My 2007 Camry Hybrid DIY

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post #10 of 247 Old 04-28-2012, 02:15 PM
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Gen6 Canuck Motorsprings: Anyone else use these?

...to lower your hybrid? Are they good springs and are they comfortable (not to stiff)?
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post #11 of 247 Old 04-29-2012, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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This is great! So on the Amsoil thing.... where do you get it and what kind of filter do you use?

What weight also? 5w-30 or 10w30 or what?

I just got a 2006 Highlander Hybrid. Do think this will be the same?

Changing inverter fluid - is that a dealer only thing or what?

Very helpful. Thanks.
that's write up on inverter fluid change at green hybrid. it's quite complex.
you buy Amsoil - for engine - on internet, in 4 qt jars, or in gallons.
I buy mine at local Chevron station.
5W20 is recommended, with 0W20 suggested for "best mileage" but it drops mpg on mine, so I go on 5W20, or 5W30, what's available.
you have 10 000 and 25 000 miles Amsoil. 25K is called signature series. It's expensive, they just jagged price again, and you must change oil filter midway, to run it to that mark. as low as filter is set in TCH, I do not think it's possible. unless you relocate filter up higher.
if you have 4WD Highlander, you want to right away change rear diff, front diff, and transfer case fluids to Amsoil oils. Mof, I think, at least 2 of those run on Toyota ATF, then you can use Amsoil ATF and just forget about it for the rest of the time you own the car.



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post #12 of 247 Old 04-29-2012, 09:20 PM
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I would also like to know if anyone has experience. Evidently they also make springs for other large companies.

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| BHLM Headlights | 8k lows | 8k fogs | 5% front/rear | Black Emblems | K&N Air Filter |
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post #13 of 247 Old 05-06-2012, 10:44 PM
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"Trdsparks.com" is great place to purchase OEM parts for your Hybrid Camry

"TRDSPARKS.COM" is a great place to purchase accessories for your Camry Hybrid. Even though my name is Sparks, I am in no way affiliated with the company. Just one happy customer because of the prices and items.

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post #14 of 247 Old 06-24-2012, 10:49 PM
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$2.99 in Farmville, VA

I had to take a road trip today for son's wrestling camp.

Passed by many no name gas stations along the way to see if they had pure gasoline without ethanol, no luck.

Then in a place called Farmville, I saw $2.99, I had to make a U turn.

Tank wasn't completely empty and gas isn't exactly top tier but I know a good deal when I see one.

Until today I didn't know Farmville was a real place.



$2.99 yeah, beat that!
:rollface:

My MPG is improving too...


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post #15 of 247 Old 06-24-2012, 11:22 PM
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I wonder if the gas I put in was pure gas or not.

I had assumed that it contained 10% ethanol but You know what, I don't recall seeing the usual ethanol sign, now
that I think about it.

On my way back home, I will stop there again to see.

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