Low Engine Oil Pressure - Quick Advice Needed - Page 7 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Camry Hybrid Discussion area for the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving Americas favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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post #91 of 272 Old 09-16-2013, 05:41 PM
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ukrkoz, no reason to be ashamed! You and I both were victims of incorrect information. The photo you posted is not for a 2AZ-FZE or a 2AZ-FE. If it is from a Camry, it is from a 5S-FE. I responded based on the photo instead of researching. The actual facts are that on the 2AZs the entire tappet must be exchanged instead of a shim. If you removed a tappet and looked underneath, you would see a largish bump dead center, and also a marking of the size. The tappets come in different sizes. It sounds awful and expensive, but the truth is that with the hardened valves and seats of today, they almost NEVER need adjusting unless they are re-faced. The system has come light years since Fiat introduced it in the early 60s (stateside...maybe earlier overseas), but it is still just as effective as ever. When I went through my 2AZ (I bought it with the engine damaged from no maintenance) at 176K, I reused the same exact shims with no problems. I like them.

Last edited by Protech; 09-16-2013 at 05:42 PM. Reason: Clarification
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post #92 of 272 Old 09-16-2013, 11:32 PM
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I wonder if what we call tappets are what the toyota techs mention as buckets.

All this talk about tappets and such reminds me of my wife's first '78 Corolla. After a 5 years the rockers became noisy. I set them with the engine warmed at idle with a feeler gauge. They were nice and quiet for about a month then would need resetting. I used a screwdriver to set the clearance and locked the set screw net down tight. I did this for about 3 months then we sold the car to a fellow worker at my work. He bought the car for his daughter to drive to collage. He said she loved the car. I remember it had a 5-speed manual floor shift.
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post #93 of 272 Old 09-17-2013, 06:59 AM
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Can anyone also explain, what FWIW means?
For What It's Worth..
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post #94 of 272 Old 09-28-2013, 09:20 AM
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Hi again guys just to update you on the situation i fixed the car knocking noise by changing the oil to 5-30 synthetic and added a few fuel system cleaners to the tank all is well now.
Thanks again i highly appreciate the help.
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post #95 of 272 Old 09-28-2013, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jazmondo View Post
Hi again guys just to update you on the situation i fixed the car knocking noise by changing the oil to 5-30 synthetic and added a few fuel system cleaners to the tank all is well now.
If that is all it took to "fix it", at least you know there was nothing really serious wrong with it.

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post #96 of 272 Old 09-28-2013, 10:17 PM
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JAZMONDO wrote:
Hi again guys just to update you on the situation i fixed the car knocking noise by changing the oil to 5-30 synthetic and added a few fuel system cleaners to the tank all is well now.

This reminds me of a similar instance back in the 1970's. My brother in law had bought a new Cadillac which was making some engine noises after start up. It was within the first year he had it and when he took it back to the dealer they said not to worry about it, everything checked out fine. Synthetic oil just started being sold commercially and Mechanics Illustrated tested it and their article impressed me enough to put in my car. I told my brother in law about the article and he put it in his Caddy. He was surprised to see that the noise that he heard on start up had stopped happening. The next time he changed oil he went back to regular oil and he said the noise came back. He didn't use anything but synthetic since. I'll bet if you hadn't used the fuel oil cleaners your knocking would have stopped with the synthetic oil alone.

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post #97 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 09:10 AM
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Oil Consumption Test

Finally I found a dealership that handled my situation. I used to have the oil consumption tests on another dealership and with 3 tests (every 1000 miles) they say it's normal. When I have the safety inspection done on another dealership they told me that the oil level is low and they have to continue the oil consumption tests. After 800 miles, brought back the vehicle to them and they're going to rebuild it. The tech said that Toyota is aware of the problem and has redesigned pistons to fix this issue. Luckily I have a 100k warranty, so that paid it off.
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post #98 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 10:04 AM
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That's interesting. I have noticed that mine uses oil. I have to "top it up" every couple weeks. It was really bad when I got it and it has been using less over time. It uses less now with 163,000 miles than it did when it had 76,000 miles. Same oil, Mobil 0/20 syn.

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post #99 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 11:11 AM
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I recently changed out my PCV valve and it seems to have decreased oil consumption quite a bit. It's a cheap part to purchase, but if your feeling frugal you could probably get away with cleaning it out with some carb cleaner or engine degreaser.
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post #100 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tenkies View Post
I recently changed out my PCV valve and it seems to have decreased oil consumption quite a bit. It's a cheap part to purchase, but if your feeling frugal you could probably get away with cleaning it out with some carb cleaner or engine degreaser.
Hmmm.... Where is that located on the TCH? I could do that right now.

As long as they move freely and do not stick, they are fine.

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post #101 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 02:35 PM
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Break-In The Engine Properly!

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Originally Posted by lincolnshibuya View Post
Finally I found a dealership that handled my situation. I used to have the oil consumption tests on another dealership and with 3 tests (every 1000 miles) they say it's normal. When I have the safety inspection done on another dealership they told me that the oil level is low and they have to continue the oil consumption tests. After 800 miles, brought back the vehicle to them and they're going to rebuild it. The tech said that Toyota is aware of the problem and has redesigned pistons to fix this issue. Luckily I have a 100k warranty, so that paid it off.
If they are going to rebuild the engine, you should make sure they deglaze the cylinder walls. And when they give the car back, you should break-in the engine to seat the new piston rings before the cylinder walls glaze up again. Properly breaking in the engine does not mean driving it slow and varying the speed. It means you should in the first 100 miles or so do about 10 full acceleration (throttle to the floor) runs from about 30 mph up to 60 mph (highway speed limit). The purpose is to increase the pressure on the rings so they will break through the oil film and wear in to fit the cylinder. If you do not do this right away the low spots in the cylinder glaze up and the rings never wear in and never seal properly causing high oil consumption.

This is how small aircraft engines are broken in after they are rebuilt, or when they are new. A new engine of this type costs about $50,000 so they are careful about how they do it. If not done, the engine has to be torn down again to deglaze the cylinder walls. Sound familiar?

Here is a link to the procedure as recommended by Teledyne. There is a good drawing on the third page showing what you are trying to do. They even use a special break-in oil that is lighter. Since your TCH is already using a light oil 0w20, I would not do that.

Here is a procedure from the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association, that gives the automotive adaptation of it. And another from Hastings, who makes piston rings.

It is unfortunate that automobile manufacturers do not give the correct instructions on how to properly break in an engine. They often say something totally useless like drive conservatively and vary speed for the first XXXX miles. Total waste of effort, and almost exactly opposite to what you really need to do to seat the rings. I suspect part of the reason may be that airplane engines likely come under stricter standards for oil consumption and they are forced to rebuild, where car manufacturers can often just bluff the customer and say it is "normal".

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post #102 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 04:51 PM
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I have to command RonAKA on bringing very important point to all this. I bet you my 04 CR-V engine was so tight because day 2 of ownership, I drove her to AL, 225 miles, like hell, even hitting 100 mph. And how everyone drives TCH-s? Grandma Moses style, slow and barely accelerating. Resulting in piston rings not properly set into the cylinder walls and having blow by oil burn out.
Now, though I do appreciate links and sources provided, personally, I do not believe 10 basic accelerations will do the job. Also, I do know that everyone says that modern engines break in in about 500 miles, but in my personal opinion, takes much longer than that. Eg, same Cr-V had mpg improvement after 45 000 miles. Not after 45 or 450.
You talk to old pros, they will tell you - 60 000 miles? Just broken in.



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post #103 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
I have to command RonAKA on bringing very important point to all this. I bet you my 04 CR-V engine was so tight because day 2 of ownership, I drove her to AL, 225 miles, like hell, even hitting 100 mph. And how everyone drives TCH-s? Grandma Moses style, slow and barely accelerating. Resulting in piston rings not properly set into the cylinder walls and having blow by oil burn out.
Now, though I do appreciate links and sources provided, personally, I do not believe 10 basic accelerations will do the job. Also, I do know that everyone says that modern engines break in in about 500 miles, but in my personal opinion, takes much longer than that. Eg, same Cr-V had mpg improvement after 45 000 miles. Not after 45 or 450.
You talk to old pros, they will tell you - 60 000 miles? Just broken in.
Right on!

Pft..... I drive mine like it was stolen most of the time. It is a great car, right? Enjoy the darn thing!! I dont uderstand all this hypermilling crapola?

"Look at me"! I got 800 miles on a tank.... Who cares?

There are better ways and better cars for doing that!

Some of these guys crack me up! Almost as good as SNL....

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post #104 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 05:47 PM
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Do any of you guys know for sure that Toyota does not break in the engines as part of their initial QC before the car's leave the factory?

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post #105 of 272 Old 10-25-2013, 11:50 PM
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Do any of you guys know for sure that Toyota does not break in the engines as part of their initial QC before the car's leave the factory?
Unless they put them on a dyno how could they load the engine? That would take a lot of time. My guess is that they start them to see if they run and that is it, except for the kid that drives them to the train and off the train. With a little luck (probably not much needed) he will put it to the floor a couple of times...

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