S2000 Antenna Conversion
- Spectra Blue Cam
THE CELICA/S2000 CONVERSION WAS AN UNQUALIFIED SUCCESS!!
I had toggle switch to get my antenna up and down because unlike the factory decks, aftermarket ones don't care whether you're listening to the radio or not, it goes up all the time. With that switch I can put up the antenna only when necessary. But my recently-added RMM wing hits the antenna when the trunk lid is up. Also, it doesn't go up all the way anymore. So I've been investigating into doing the conversion.
I knew it was a good sign when only one day after I was told the S2000 antenna was backordered for weeks, it arrived.
The whole process took about 45 minutes. 25 of those minutes were spent twisting and bending the antenna bracket to bolt onto the support.
Here's the deal:
1. S2000 antenna - PN 39151-S2H-E01, $34.26
2. Celica sub-antenna (includes bracket) - PN 86309-20300, 35.60
3. Celica antenna nut - PN 86396-20030, $15
The prices are from Sisley Hondau (Yonge and Steeles) and DVNLT. Prices are in CDN, before taxes.
It's basically a bolt-on exercise. The only modification required was to trim a bit off the bottom part of the "antenna ornament" (official parts dept. name for the rubber boot on the rear quarter panel around the antenna). As mentioned, the most challenging part was twisting the bracket which came with the antenna to meet the existing bolt hole.
Reception is excellent.
- extra info + (DIY w/ PICS):
Gen 4 Indiglo Install
GEN 3 SPRING OPTIONS AND OPINIONS
-w/a body kit - Intrax 1.75" are better riding than Sprints 1.8" or VIS
-w/out a body kit - I have come to the conclusion that H&R's offer the best
of looks (w/ the right size tires and rims), comfort and sharp handling w/a
Your other options are Eibachs 1.0" and B+G 1.6"
The Eibach drop is not really noticeable. I personally want the drop of the
B+G's (w/ 215/50/17's I should get about a 1.5 finger gap in front and 1
B+in back) but I've heard very mixed reviews on them. Everything from "identical to Eibach", "Love em to death" and "they're mushy"
I don't know if mushy is a bad thing tho. I think of stock as mushy. If
mushy in this case means softer ride and less (but still better than stock)
cornering stability... tha'd be ok by me.
I'd say the ideal size and proportion rim/tire for a gen3 is... 215/50/17 - 215/45/18 - (w/a low drop) xxx/40/18
Gap in finger width w/ 215/50/17... ( -F / R- )
Eibach 3-3.5 / 2.5-3
H&R 2.5 / 2
B+G 2-1.5 / 1.5-0.5
Intrax 1.5-1 / 0.5-tuck
Vogtland 2.5 / 2
Sprint 1 / tuck
VIS c/o adj. / adj.
JIC Majic c/o adj. / adj.
FYI - Struts and tire profile make a diff in stifness.
KYB's will be softer than Tokico's and the lower profile you go the harsher
CORNER LAMP FLASHERS
- 88 LE
Cut the ground wire for the parking light. Tape off the end that goes to the
car (you won't be using it anymore).
Splice the ground wire from the parking light (the bulb socket) to the alternating +12V
wire of the blinker. You'll need a piece of wire and some crimps to do this.
Parking lights off = parking light and blinker both blink at the same time.
Parking lights on = parking light and blinker blink alternately.
Remember to cut the ground wire on the parking light and only use the end that
goes to the bulb socket. Otherwise you'll end up with blown fuses. Also verify the wires with a DMM before you cut and splice.
Wires on a gen 2 (87 - 91) Camry
Ground wire on corner light = white wire with black stripe.
Alternating +12V wire on blinker = green wire with yellow stripe.
Ellipsoid headlights produce a yellowish pattern of light on the ground. We
all agree that more light is needed. Even $400usd for the HID upgrade is a
lot of money. But some people found out that the 9005 bulbs can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets of the Toyota Camry.
This works only on ellipsoid.
I have experimented with the Sylvania Cool Blue 65W 9005 ($12usd ea.), Pilot Greenish blue somethings 65W 9005 ($20usd ea.), GE Blue Vision 65W 9005 ($12usd ea.) and the latest, Sylvania Silverstar 65W 9005 ($29usd ea.) and was really happy with the brighter light across the board.
Hands down, Sylvania Silverstar 65W 9005's are the best, the brightest, the
longest lasting (I've had mine in for two years now) and the whitest.
Why I'm using a 9005 bulb: 9005 bulbs are 65W and are not capped at the end, 9006 bulbs are 55W and have a cap at the end. The light increase is from the increase in lumens from the 9005 bulb. A 9005 bulb has 70% more lumens than the 9006 (1700 lumens vs 1000 lumens). HID has
3200 lumens. You have to slightly modify the 9005 bulb to fit the 9006 socket.
*File or chisel tools, Sharp knife, blade, soldering iron or Dremel like tool.
*2 x 9005 bulbs.
*Protective glasses and gloves (you don't want to lose a finger or an eye). :P
1. Remove 3mm of plastic from the left of the center of top tab when the
socket is pointing down until you have 5-6mm of plastic left.
2. Remove the two guides inside the socket. Install 1 new O'ring from the
old 9006 bulb on the new modified 9005 bulb to ensure a tight fit.
3. Install the bulbs in your car and have your light adjusted if not
It is also possible to modify the harness on the car... but I don't recommend
it. I've seen way too many afm harnesses melt or worse melt the fuse box. On the Gen3 (1992-1996) Toyota Camry both the high beam and low beam harnesses are designed to carry a max load of 65wats safely
Gen3 and 4 Loose Seat Back DIY Fix
It cost me nothing but 2 washers, and about 4 hours of my time.
I can do it in about 2 hours now that I know exactly what needs to be done to fix the problem.
Unfortunately I would have taken some pics, but my friends girlfriend dropped my digicam a few weeks ago and needless to say it's finished.
So I will try to explain this as best I can.
1.) Remove defective seat
2.) Put seat on bench, and flip upside down
3.) Remove all 4 bolts that hold the guide rails to the underseat.
4.) The seat is still attached via the tilt hinges, but the rail assembly can now move a little.
5.) Remove the side bottom peaice of plastic on the seat. (Not the peice with the power buttons on it, but the one below it)
6.) You will see 2 different bars (shafts) that go across the bottom of the seat, one will be rusty and the other one is black. They are both held on by C Rings. If you play with the bars you will notice alot of play from side to side, and up and down. This is where the problem is.
7.) Remove only 1 C ring from one bar, and then remove only 1 C Ring from the other bar.
Whichever side you decide to remove on the black bar, remove the opposite side on the rusted bar. This is to distribute the shim load you are about to fabricate.
8.) You need 2 washers that the center hole have a diameter large enough so you can slide it onto the shaft. Exact size, Im not sure, I just had some old washers in my junk drawer.
9.) Once you have 2 washers that will fit onto the shafts, you need to grind the washers down so that they are very thin. Otherwise you will not be able to snap the C Ring back on after.
This takes alot of grinding, and test fitting, and then more grinding etc.. you get the picture.
10.) Once you have the washers at the right thickness, install on shaft ends, and reinstall C rings, and put the seat back together.
11.) Test drive and you will see that the problem is gone.
I have asked the dealer about fixing the problem and they wanted to replace the entire seat. Also looked online for quite some time now, and nobody has posted a fix for this common problem. So I hope this will help others
I know this problem really bothered me, and was the only thing on the Camry that I could not stand. So I did one of my custom jobs once again..
How to change the power steering fluid
Acoustic Control Induction System DIY Mod
(ACIS)(v6 models only)
How to install a intake on a gen 4 w/5S-FE
Gen4 Guage bulb replacement / Color change
(Needle Color Change w/ indiglos)
How-to change brake pads only
DIY CAI (gen 3)
DIY cold cathode trunk light
DIY Shifter Lighting Change
DIY Gauge Needle Lighting Change
How to program keyless entry remote (gen 4)
Rack & pinion and 2 Axels Replaced (gen3)
How-to remove headlights (gen 3)
Whiteline RSB install (gen 4)
Door panel removal (gen 4)