Fooling the ECM - sharing 1 good knock sensor for 2 ECM inputs - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #16 of 32 Old 07-27-2012, 02:36 AM
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Wire Knock Sensor 2 input with Knock Sensor 1

This was SO cool......and saved me huge $$$$ to pass inspection in BC, Canada. Replacing the knock sensors is a $2,000 job here.

I failed the first Air Care with a P0330 alarm.

Knock sensor 2 was not dead but really doing weird things. I could take the battery connection off, and then put it back on and drive for hours.... no alarm. However, every time I turned it off for 2 hours, when I started it, I got an alarm to check engine and the code was always P0330. Also, it would not clear the catalyst or evaps monitors???? not sure how this was connected to the knock sensor????

So I can pass Air Care with one monitor not clear.......but not two monitors not clear.

SOLUTION

So I cut the wire for knock sensor 2 (remove glove box, 4 Phillips screws and 1 bolt on 2001 Camry LE, V6, 2 knock sensor inputs are on R11).

Wiring is here for my 2001 Camry:

http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...13MZ-FE/Camry/


So the KNKL and KNKR are connector E11, pins 27 and 28. They have clear insulation and different than all the other wires in that connector...seem to be a thicker gauge wire or thicker insulation.

I cut the wire going into pin 28 about 2 inches from connector R11....knock sensor 2 and the computer started behaving like it should.....if I disconnect the battery to reset the computer, and then reconnect the battery, start the car and drive, I would get the alarm for no knock sensor 2 within 1 km.

Great....finally something working like it should. This is what should happen when there is no knock sensor connected!!!!

Then I spliced the wire the was connected to E11, pin 28 (the 2 inches mentioned above) to the wire from knock sensor 1 going to pin 27 of E11. So essentially the knock sensor 1 was feeding E11, pin 27 and 28 from the same sensor with paralllel wiring.

It worked!!! No more alarms. Also catalyst monitor ran immediately and I was through Air Care in 15 minutes!!!

The bad part from a moral or ethical perspective is that my emissions did not change a bit....same as they were for the last two years and will be for the next two years! All I did was rewire some computer signals. Shows what a useless waste of money most of these AirCare inspection places are!
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post #17 of 32 Old 09-11-2012, 04:07 AM
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Oh dear, this is a tad worrying, wiring both knock lines to one sensor....

Anyone care to explain what is going to happen to your engine if the bank that ISN'T being monitored runs lean?

Big badda boom.

Both knock sensors are there to retard the timing if one bank has a lean running cylinder, you guys are playing a dangerous game of detonation roulette, you're only running knock protection on one bank.
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post #18 of 32 Old 09-11-2012, 05:46 AM
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The 1MZ knock sensors are SO bloody sensitive it still works fine, even when you run off one relocated to the outside of the engine.

'96 Camry Wagon V6: TRD SC, Front BBK
'95 AE101: 20V ST 5spd, 4 wheel 1 off BBK and 5x114 swap
'93 SC300 1JZ-GTE Auto
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post #19 of 32 Old 09-11-2012, 06:57 PM
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that and just run 93 octane right? <-- i do
i've done this as well. and havent had an issue.

IMO if you dont drive your car like sh!T . or maintain it like sh!T or put crappy gas in it.. i think you'd have nothing to worry about.


NOW I KNOW . that the 1mz's are not labeled for 'premium' fuel . but i believe they should use it. as a precaution if you love your engine THAT much.

but i question. i remember a few cars from the 90's that had about a 10.5+:1 compression ratio.(preludes. and a few others) BUT "REQUIRED" hi-octane.
how does our 10.8:1 sneak by on 87?..
oh it doesn't IMO. it's watched very closely via computer/knock sensors and being dumbed down constantly by these same things.
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post #20 of 32 Old 09-11-2012, 07:56 PM
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I a running a 2MZ which is 10.9:1, lol. There is quite a noticeable diff between 87 and 93. I only use 93 now on this engine.

The 94-96 1MZ says in the owners manual 91 is recommended but 87 is ok. I pretty much usd 87 till I boosted it then never used anything other then 93 or 94. When it was tuned it was on 94 with a relocated knk sensor.

'96 Camry Wagon V6: TRD SC, Front BBK
'95 AE101: 20V ST 5spd, 4 wheel 1 off BBK and 5x114 swap
'93 SC300 1JZ-GTE Auto
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post #21 of 32 Old 09-12-2012, 05:53 PM
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cool. out of curiosity. where'd you pick that up?(2mz)
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post #22 of 32 Old 09-12-2012, 09:19 PM
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Ebay. I;m building my 1MZ and will remove the 2MZ when finished.

'96 Camry Wagon V6: TRD SC, Front BBK
'95 AE101: 20V ST 5spd, 4 wheel 1 off BBK and 5x114 swap
'93 SC300 1JZ-GTE Auto
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post #23 of 32 Old 10-19-2012, 11:37 PM
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Sorry to resurrect this, but it started doing this tonight...I am a little confused on kmfcd5's post. Has anyone posted a DIY on this? I have tried searching. Thanks in advance

My Current "collection" :
1. 1996 Honda Civic EX Full B16B swap, many other mods
2. 1996 Toyota Camry XLE 3.0 V6, traded a 90 Golf for this beauty
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post #24 of 32 Old 10-20-2012, 04:00 PM
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This is probably the best DIY thread for it. What do you need help with? Here's a pic showing the wires to splice at the ECU...


2015 RAV4 Limited, AWD, tech pkg, Barcelona red metallic, 66k miles
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, super white II, acquired w/ 139k, now at 400k
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, dark emerald pearl, owned since new. Replaced HGs @332k, totaled at 384k miles

Last edited by BMR; 07-19-2018 at 03:20 PM. Reason: New host for pic
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post #25 of 32 Old 10-20-2012, 08:40 PM
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Yes, this is what I was looking for, the solaraguy link is dead so I could not find it. My code is P0330, so which one do I cut? And can I use quick splice connectors?

My Current "collection" :
1. 1996 Honda Civic EX Full B16B swap, many other mods
2. 1996 Toyota Camry XLE 3.0 V6, traded a 90 Golf for this beauty
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post #26 of 32 Old 10-20-2012, 09:40 PM
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You have the same error code as kfmcd5, so should do the same thing:

Quote:
Then I spliced the wire the was connected to E11, pin 28 ... to the wire from knock sensor 1 going to pin 27 of E11. So essentially the knock sensor 1 was feeding E11, pin 27 and 28 from the same sensor with paralllel wiring.

2015 RAV4 Limited, AWD, tech pkg, Barcelona red metallic, 66k miles
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, super white II, acquired w/ 139k, now at 400k
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, dark emerald pearl, owned since new. Replaced HGs @332k, totaled at 384k miles
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post #27 of 32 Old 10-20-2012, 10:39 PM
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I don't have an E11 Mine is a 1996

My Current "collection" :
1. 1996 Honda Civic EX Full B16B swap, many other mods
2. 1996 Toyota Camry XLE 3.0 V6, traded a 90 Golf for this beauty
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post #28 of 32 Old 06-06-2013, 02:41 PM
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UPDATE:
I did this mod over 2 years and 70K miles ago and all is still good! Also - I have always run 87 octane gas with no problems. Gotta love the 3VZ-FE!

1993 Camry 3VZ-FE 235k miles, runs like new!
1995 4Runner 4x4 3VZE new engine at 200k
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post #29 of 32 Old 11-30-2013, 05:00 PM
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okay so bringing back a thread here, lets say I do this to pass emissions, but let say my other knock sensor goes or I decide to get it fixed, what happens to the cut wire?
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post #30 of 32 Old 11-30-2013, 05:04 PM
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I do plan on getting it fixed, I just dont know when or If ill have the cash to get it fixed before emissions test, reason being also need to change my rear valve cover gaskets so might as well change knock sensors while gaskets r being changed
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