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Highlander 2nd Generation (2008-2013) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 2nd generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #16 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
I only realized after putting my tools away and did not find the filter tool. It was still attached to the housing underneath. I had to open the door to remove it, giving it a tap to break it free. LOL I have two other vehicles which have them on the top of the engines. This is certainly the more complex one to do and messier. I may try the two step method removing the center plug to drain the oil and see how that goes in comparison next time.

Anyway she's good for a long run now.

Not sure if these HL's have them, but the 4Runner has two o-rings for the filter housing. One is a small one that seals up that smaller center plug. If you don't open that up you never change that ring, which eventually will cause a bit of a leak. I imagine they probably last some time, but the filter kits for the Runners have two o-rings and I always change the smaller one each time (the little drain tool Toyota provides for the OEM filters pops that o-ring out automatically).

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post #17 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, it is the same setup with the drain plug we're to insert to drain oil above. I'll do it next time I am changing the oil. If it comes out before the main casting brakes free... LOL We'll see at that time. Its certain a small filter element. Smallest of any engine I've done. I am happy to have my own oil in it. Even though Toyota put their own oil (was told it was Toyota branded at the dealer. They don't make oil). There are different qualities of Synthetic and I am happy to change it myself even if the cost is the same.

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post #18 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
I only realized after putting my tools away and did not find the filter tool. It was still attached to the housing underneath. I had to open the door to remove it, giving it a tap to break it free. LOL I have two other vehicles which have them on the top of the engines. This is certainly the more complex one to do and messier. I may try the two step method removing the center plug to drain the oil and see how that goes in comparison next time.

Anyway she's good for a long run now.
Removing the center cap make a big difference.
I've not had any issues snapping in the plastic drain tool, but some report it is still quite messy. You just have to position it square and snap it in quickly (without having your hand under the opening).
MotivX does make a tool that threads into the center hole without beginning the drain process until you screw a 2nd part in. I own one, have not used it.

-- Rich

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post #19 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 09:47 PM
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The first time I opened up the center cap it was HARD. Had to brace the canister to get it to thread off. Some jackhole before I owned it thought it needed 250 ft lbs of torque apparently. It was so bad I left it the first change, then tackled it the second one (I go through 10,000 miles in about 11 weeks, so change the oil often). Once freed up and torqued normal it is a breeze to get it off. Yeah, still a bit messy. One day I will rig up a hose connection to make it less blah.

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post #20 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 09:59 PM
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Removing the center cap make a big difference.
I've not had any issues snapping in the plastic drain tool, but some report it is still quite messy. You just have to position it square and snap it in quickly (without having your hand under the opening).
MotivX does make a tool that threads into the center hole without beginning the drain process until you screw a 2nd part in. I own one, have not used it.
I have the MotivX drain tool and it is well worth the money. It screws into the bottom drain plug thing and has a drain hose on it. Once it is installed and the hose is routed to the oil drain pan, you turn a knurled knob and the oil flows out of the filter housing. It makes for a virtually mess-free oil change, it is a great tool! I get it draining and then do other things like checking brake fluid level, windshield squirter fluid level, checking tire pressures, etc. Then I go back, remove the drain tool and finish swapping out the oil filter with virtually no drippage. Love it!

MotivX also makes an oil fill funnel for Toyota engines. It seem expensive but it is VERY MUCH worth it. It screws into the oil fill hole in place of the screw in cap. It makes for a drip-free fill of the engine. It works well with one quart cans or with five quart jugs. Don't let the cost set you back, it is fabulous! Be sure to screw it into the oil fill hole gently, user reports say it can break off but I have not had any such problem. I suspect the folks who broke it either cross-threaded it or else way overtightened it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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post #21 of 44 Old 09-19-2018, 10:37 PM
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MotivX also makes an oil fill funnel for Toyota engines. It seem expensive but it is VERY MUCH worth it. It screws into the oil fill hole in place of the screw in cap. It makes for a drip-free fill of the engine. It works well with one quart cans or with five quart jugs. Don't let the cost set you back, it is fabulous! Be sure to screw it into the oil fill hole gently, user reports say it can break off but I have not had any such problem. I suspect the folks who broke it either cross-threaded it or else way overtightened it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The new design separates. I put the clear part inside the blue part and put them both into a zip-lock to keep them free of dust between uses.

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post #22 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I was about to post about my difficultly pouring the oil from my 5L jug into the engine. This engine has the shallowest depth for a funnel end to go into. A metal block that looks like even bolt nut would not pass bay. I have used the same funnel for many decades in various engines and at least 3 others are shallow but not like this. These others had something in the way not allowing the approx 1" diameter end to go down further. its not a hard plastic funnel so its easy to clean if needed and keep around the garage.

I'd like to see some other info on funnels you are using that more universal but suitable for shallow fill designs.

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post #23 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 11:13 AM
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Oil Change

Here is what I use on both Rav4 and Highlander. It is a Prestone funnel designed to use for Antifreeze, buts works good for oil. Image attached.
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post #24 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Here is what I use on both Rav4 and Highlander. It is a Prestone funnel designed to use for Antifreeze, buts works good for oil. Image attached.
LOL

Well except for the bottom which in my case has a bit of a taper its exactly looking like what i have been using for over 30 years. I suppose I could cut the taper off so its square but its the same identically otherwise. I probably got it with some rad filling kit back in the 70's

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post #25 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 12:15 PM
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I will stand by my suggestion of using the MotivX funnel. It is well worth the money! It screws into the oil fill hole and has a gasket. Because it is screwed into the hole it is nice and steady so you have no worries about it shifting as the weight of the oil sloshing around changes the center of balance of a normal funnel set into the opening. It makes a two handed grip on that five quart oil jug a safe and easy thing to do. Just do it - buy the MotivX funnel and enjoy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FVJUX0...tionconvert-20

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post #26 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Links always valued. I searched on Amazon Canada and the typical extorsion sellers are well looking for $200 for a Toyota kit. Kia and other also beyond rational.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_no...l+Funnel&ajr=0

I am changing oil in 4 vehicles and like something sort or universal for at least two anyway which are the most difficult. That being HL, & Kia Sorento V6's

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post #27 of 44 Old 09-26-2018, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
Links always valued. I searched on Amazon Canada and the typical extorsion sellers are well looking for $200 for a Toyota kit. Kia and other also beyond rational.

https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_no...l+Funnel&ajr=0


Wow! That's crazy. Double what it should be!
Buy direct from the vendor https://www.motivxtools.com/pages/se...320b3_mx2320b4

Or you can buy just the lower chamber and use your own funnel
https://www.motivxtools.com/collecti...=1703677952025

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post #28 of 44 Old 05-11-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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I did an oil change again today. This time I used the plastic insert to predrain the filter housing. I found it captures the O-ring when you remove it. I could pull it out by the way. I used a 1/4" ratchets arm which when into the hole and I pried it out easily.

I didn't need a hose. The oil flowed straight down into my catch pan. I just got mu hands oily again. All done again with 0W20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Good for another 8000km.

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post #29 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 06:55 AM
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Do you leave the drain tool attaced to the filter housing or remove it after the filter change?

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post #30 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
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I has to be removed. You wouldn't get the casting wrench on with it on to remove the filter if you left it on. Be sure to insert the new O-ring supplied for the cap covering that hole as its coming off with the tool I found. the previous change I removed the casting without drain and it was messy.

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