1st Oil Change DIY - Taking to Dealer tomorrow - Page 3 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Highlander 2nd Generation (2008-2013) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 2nd generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #31 of 44 Old 05-12-2019, 10:34 AM
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I quit draining the filter housing long ago. Better filters will have teflon(or encapulated) or viton type o-rings. Once I installed the cartridge drain with a well oiled eternal life o-ring, I won't touch it again. I just spin the cartridge housing/filter into its own drain bucket.

Both orings for the cartridge absorb oil, expand, and tighten. Even if the tech installed it to torque, both the cartridge and its drain plug can become extremely tight over the interval. The o-ring grip will be even more if it was installed dry, scuffed up while being screwed on, and then absorb oil locking the o-ring scuffing like teeth. Lube the o-rings.

For those that must drain their filter:
https://www.motivxtools.com/products...nt=16794858950
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?ro...product_id=461

To prevent damage to the baffle in many toyota valve/rocker/cam covers. I hate when many funnel stab/wedge the baffle.
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1374
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...mber=OFTOY1038
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?...l_number=OFT38
https://www.motivxtools.com/products...nt=15325920774

An impact(air or battery) wrench will take off any drain plug, oil filter, or cartridge drain. These parts need the impact hits, vibrations, harmonics... that loosen and let you take a car apart without a 10ft black iron pipe on that breaker bar. Breaker bars put continuous force that break/strip stuff, especially with the cheap quality wrenches/sockets that many DIYers use. If breaker bar is your only choice, a hammer works better than an attached leverage pipe.

I never cared for the AST TOY640 filter wrench that many push. I find that the ones that look like the MotivX or CTA work better.
https://www.motivxtools.com/products...-filter-wrench
http://www.ctatools.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1216
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?..._number=TOY640

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post #32 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tripplec View Post
I has to be removed. You wouldn't get the casting wrench on with it on to remove the filter if you left it on. Be sure to insert the new O-ring supplied for the cap covering that hole as its coming off with the tool I found. the previous change I removed the casting without drain and it was messy.
Yea, I should have realized that. Did not think. I actually have never had my drain plug out of my cartridge. I always just remove the entire cartridge. Its a little messy, but not that bad. Never had any leaks around the plug o-ring. I don't think it would ever leak.

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post #33 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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The plug cap w/3/8" extension comes off very easily. So its not a big deal. I was looking a hose for ages to put over the insert tool which comes with the toyota oil filter. I couldn't find one. So I aligned my catch tray under it and pushed it in. the oil flow out and down. Done...getting it out was the issue. but the narrow handle of the 1/4" ratchet was the way to get it to pop out. Done, so next time its going to be so much easier. The mess of getting the entire casing out is avoided and having done both now. this extra step is worth it. I put the lower plug O-ring on (oiled first) into the grove and spin on the cap hand tight. Then the bigger O-ring of the casting oiled well as well.

Install it with the new filter and then tighten the cap last but not to vigorously. Its aluminum, stripping and backing it off don't work. I saved the insert I used in case I decide to use it for the next change 8000Km later again.

I have done so many different oil filter changes over the many decades and now find this isn't that bad at all. The worst one due to fit is the filter in a 4.6L Explorer 2009 engine with minimal access and angular approach is a beast even having done it 4 times (eventually). its still a struggle getting the filter out. My son's AWD big suv which is Full Time active like this HL

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post #34 of 44 Old 05-13-2019, 02:44 PM
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I really like the Motivx funnel. After wiping it out, I unscrew the bottom and stow it inside the top... the whole thing fits nicely into a zip-lock bag with the drain adapter to keep them clean and free of dust (and keep oil off of other things).

-- Rich

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post #35 of 44 Old 05-14-2019, 09:13 AM
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Yeah, on my first oil change it was super tight too. I can't remember if I had to use a breaker bar or not but I did torque the metal end-cap filter tool a little bit. It is a bit deformed now but still works fine given that I don't tighten mine down like a freakin' gorilla on steroids. ;-) This is my first vehicle with a cartridge filter but I've found that I do not mind it at all.


Also, FWIW, I never remove the drain thingy on the filter housing. I just take the whole thing off and dump it. I have a bunch of small o-rings in case it ever starts leaking, but I've been doing my own oil changes since 2015 and have never replaced it. It isn't any messier to do it this way IMHO.

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post #36 of 44 Old 06-08-2019, 07:35 PM
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My current oil and filter change routine is every 5K miles I change the oil and every 10K miles I change the filter. I use Mobile One 0-W20 and Toyota filter cartridges.

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post #37 of 44 Old 06-08-2019, 07:58 PM
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Just my thinking but changeing oil and not the filter is like washing youre feet and putting youre dirty socks back on. I change my oil and filter every 6 months, 5/6 thousand miles.

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post #38 of 44 Old 06-09-2019, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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This is by far the cheapest OEM oil filter of all I have bought. Even the aftermarket names like Wix or twice this cost. Its a no brainer to use it and every time you change the oil. Period!!!

Sorento 3.3L is around $19
Sante Fe 3.3L is around $17
Yamaha SxS Wolsverine is $19 (cartridge)
ATV Wix is $14

These are ones I can remember sort of that I have to buy for plus a number of others. toyota Highlander was $7 (a bargain) this is in Canada as well.

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post #39 of 44 Old 06-10-2019, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bdarnold12 View Post
Just my thinking but changeing oil and not the filter is like washing youre feet and putting youre dirty socks back on. I change my oil and filter every 6 months, 5/6 thousand miles.
Agreed... that is a bit unusual.
I've known people who change the filter at the midpoint, and even one guy who NEVER changed his oil, just swapped in a new filter every month. In fairness, that old Impala burned/leaked so much oil that he probably never had any oil older than 5k anyways
While I'm comfortable with 10k change intervals, it does seem silly to change the oil and not the filter. If anything, the oil will absolutely outlast the filter.

-- Rich

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post #40 of 44 Old 06-11-2019, 07:55 AM
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Well... Consider what the filter does. It only removes solids suspended in the oil.. and only fails when the accumulated solids build up enough to reduce the flow (at which point the oil is bypassed). Your filter does nothing to prevent the breakdown of the oil. Unless you are concerned that solids are being flushed through the filter (not) there is in fact little need to replace the filter at each or even every other oil change.
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post #41 of 44 Old 06-11-2019, 08:50 AM
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Well... Consider what the filter does. It only removes solids suspended in the oil.. and only fails when the accumulated solids build up enough to reduce the flow (at which point the oil is bypassed). Your filter does nothing to prevent the breakdown of the oil. Unless you are concerned that solids are being flushed through the filter (not) there is in fact little need to replace the filter at each or even every other oil change.
Good luck with that...the couple of $'s and peace of mind and ability to not have an engine go bad are easily worth it for me.
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post #42 of 44 Old 06-11-2019, 10:28 AM
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If memory seves me right when yota was having all their sludging issues one of the causes was people not changing their filters. I'm sure that wasn't the only cause but a contributing factor.

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post #43 of 44 Old 06-12-2019, 08:00 AM
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Good luck with that...the couple of $'s and peace of mind and ability to not have an engine go bad are easily worth it for me.
True.. and that is what most people and oil change garages do. But.. from a technical point.. the filter only removes suspended solids.. and with modern engines there is a lot less wear (read solids generated) than engines of old. And, the quality of the oil is much improved as well especially synthetics.. so some of those "old time" practices could use some new thinking.. as the Toyota manual tries to do by increasing the period between oil changes.. and how often to change your transmission fluid.. transfer case.. rear end.. wheel bearings.. etc. etc.
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post #44 of 44 Old 06-17-2019, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph6410 View Post
Well... Consider what the filter does. It only removes solids suspended in the oil.. and only fails when the accumulated solids build up enough to reduce the flow (at which point the oil is bypassed). Your filter does nothing to prevent the breakdown of the oil. Unless you are concerned that solids are being flushed through the filter (not) there is in fact little need to replace the filter at each or even every other oil change.
Good luck with that...the couple of $'s and peace of mind and ability to not have an engine go bad are easily worth it for me.
I understand people's reluctance to not changing the oil filter at every oil change. However, the fact that Toyota allows 10K miles between oil changes gives me assurance that leaving the filter in for that period but changing the oil at 5K miles is a good compromise.

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