AC not working - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Highlander 2nd Generation (2008-2013) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 2nd generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #1 of 8 Old 04-14-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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AC not working

Wife went to use AC for first time since last year and just blows warm or outside temp. 2013 with V6 has rear climate control. No codes, AC light stays on does not flash, clutch does not engage. Googled and googled and googled some more and have come up short. Checked fuses inside on drivers side, all i found online was for ac relay in engine compartment. Has 12v on pin 5&1 but is missing ground on pin 2 to latch the relay. First i tried putting freon in it with ac pro can but without compressor spinning i dont see how it would take any, but gauge on can read 80-90 in the red...put a set of gauges on and read 90 on lo side and 100 on high. Wouldnt take freon and dont feel that is the problem but i am no expert by any means in ac. So after all that i jumped pins 5&3 at relay to make compressor work, clutch engaged and i expected cold air or pressures to react but they stayed the same and no cold air. Ran for about 5 minutes in this state and tried freon again to no avail. Could only find one switch, i think, right by low port with 3 wires. Compressor has 3 connections. Is the hi pressure switch one of those? Im under the impression my culprit is the high pressure switch but i cant find any diagrams or locations online. Im also assuming the ground for ac relay comes from a module or computer and is an output dependent on the pressure/temp/sensors associated with ac....what can i do to troubleshoot this so i dont have to pay someone else to. I know my way around a meter and if i just had some diagrams or understood the logic behind it i am good to go.

I can recheck anything and dont mind starting all over if need be to answer any questions.
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-14-2019, 10:24 PM
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Sounds like you are low on "Freon" to me.
What are the pressures when you "jump" the compressor to force it to run?
I'm betting you low side drops extremely low when the compressor is forced on.
I would not run the compressor for more than several seconds and would have the gauges hooked up and ready to monitor pressures when you do....

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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You would think but nothing changes. Believe its due to ac amp, lead to believe this is not a “normal” on/off but more of a pwm to control flow so even though i jump it i have no “flow” command from amp...sounds plausible but all assumptions after googling. Found out ground comes from ac amp
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 09:19 AM
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Sounds like low refrigerant to me which is a common occurrence when left idle over the winter. Even a small will drain the system enough to become a problem. Its not very high pressure but what was your outside temperature. Fill in you full profile details in a signature of the build details and location which are all important. Goto Tools, Quick Links and you'll see the selection to create and edit to to appear nicely.

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post #5 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 02:56 PM
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The 2nd Gen Highlander uses a variable capacity compressor. It needs both a working clutch and compressor control valve actuation, which increases the compression capacity from zero (when first engaged), and up to 100% as demanded by AC settings and temp sensors. If the PCM is refusing to engage the clutch, then it is also not going to open the compressor control valve, either. Shaft spins but no compression.



The PCM will set a series of Bxxx codes if any of the wiring or sensors is suspected defective. Not sure if the B codes also turn on the CEL. My *guess* is that the pressure sensor is reporting falsely, locking out the clutch and control valve.



The sensor is on the high pressure line. It has three terminals and gets power (5vdc?) across the outside pins, with the center pin signal. At rest, and at room temperature, I 'd guess the voltage should be 1 ~ 2v dc, referenced the batt negative.



Don't think you can remove the switch without the refrigerant escaping, which would then require a vacuum down and recharge..
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVConsult View Post
The PCM will set a series of Bxxx codes if any of the wiring or sensors is suspected defective. Not sure if the B codes also turn on the CEL. My *guess* is that the pressure sensor is reporting falsely, locking out the clutch and control valve.
Interesting stuff on the variable compressor.
However it will never trip a CEL because by law a CEL may only trigger on Federal Emissions related items.
So while there may be codes in the ECU indicating what's going on and errors, it can't by law trigger a CEL so the codes would only be seen in TIS Techstream if there were any code at all.

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post #7 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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What i was assuming but had no way to confirm until now really. Yes no CEL either and im trying to find a diagram and list of sensors/components that could cause my issue but hvent come up with much. I have a potentiometer ill test before using and see if i can sim 1-2v on signal wire at the switch. Ill try to back probe without damaging as well to see what the switch is reporting back.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-15-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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I have these but cannot makeout anything
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