Driver's window out of adjustment, 08 Highlander - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 25 Old 07-24-2013, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Driver's window out of adjustment, 08 Highlander

Hello all. I am looking to help out a friend and fellow Toyota owner. Hopefully the Highlander owners here can provide some insight on parts and possibly DIY fixing the issue.

The vehicle is a base 08 Highlander. The problem that is occurring is happening when the driver's door window is used. As soon as it is lowered, it gets out of proper adjustment. It has no issues lowering partially or completely. However, when trying to roll it back up, upon reaching the top of the door frame, it will be slightly off and the rear (vertical) portion of the glass isn't sitting flush in its channel. It's about an eighth inch forward, and by that I mean about an eighth inch of daylight is visible, as well as the line where the tint ends on the glass. Since the window isn't raising properly, it immediately lowers itself back down when it touches the top. One has to press the switch and guide the glass with the other hand to keep it in track so that the window will fully raise and stay up. Having dealt with this recently myself while driving the vehicle, I can say it is very inconvenient and frustrating to deal with.

The raising and lowering motions seem just fine, the only bad noise I hear is when the window gets fully lowered there's a bit of a clunk that sometimes happens as the window ends its movement. It doesn't sound normal to me, but it also doesn't happen all the time. During movement it's fine and moves smoothly. It's just out of alignment.

She brought the vehicle to the dealer once when this first started happening, where she was told that some sort of tabs had either been damaged or broken in the door, but they were a part of the glass as an assembly and not available separately. Their claim is that the only way the repair can be done is if the whole assembly of glass-plus-tabs is replaced, and of course for a hefty sum between the parts and labor. What I'm trying to find out is if these tabs they're talking about are something that you actually can get by themselves and replace to fix the issue, and if so, what the part number is and/or where to get them?

Also, could there be a different culprit, such as the regulator? Or could there be a different solution, where something can be adjusted to get the window back on track if nothing is actually damaged?

The part number the dealer gave her for the driver's door glass is 68102-0E041. I started searching around with that part number but I haven't found any exploded views or illustrated part catalogs so I can see what these tabs are and if they're a separate part.

Any information anyone can provide would be very helpful and appreciated, because so far I've been coming up pretty dry.

She is planning to take the door panel apart this weekend to have a look for herself at how things are looking in the door. Hopefully she will be able to provide me with info and pictures so I can update here if needed.

If there is any other information anyone needs, please let me know and I will do my best to provide it. Thanks in advance!

-SaGa

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post #2 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 05:53 AM
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the tabs are part of the glass. i have seen people try to glue them back on but it doesnt work. also check the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator its very common for the bolts to back out and fall in to the bottom of the door and cause issues.
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post #3 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Highlander-guy. So a replacement glass really is the only way to go if the tabs turn out to be damaged. If it's that the bolts have backed out or fallen, can those simply be reinstalled and make things right again?

Also, do you, or does anyone else, have recommendations as far as purchasing a replacement glass if it is needed? Certain websites like RockAuto? eBay? Junkyard hunting in the local area?

-SaGa

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post #4 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 12:25 PM
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Just a thought, but you may want to have her sign onto Toyota.com/Owners and see if her 08 is one affected by the Drivers side Window Switch recall and maybe she can blame it on that and a dealer would work with her to get it fixed. Mine is listed as one under the recall but I haven't taken it in yet.

from Toyota.com\owners
This is an important Safety Recall. Please contact your authorized Toyota dealer, as soon as possible, and make an appointment to have this important Safety Recall remedy performed at NO CHARGE to you.
What is the Condition? The sliding electrical contact module in the driverís side Power Window Master Switch (PWMS) may experience a "notchy" or sticking feeling during operation.

Another thread about it here: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...ch-recall.html

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post #5 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, MileHighlander. She is a part of the owners site already, and I believe her vehicle is up to date in terms of any recalls. I can't say I noticed any problems with the window switches themselves, but I will be sure to mention this just the same.

-SaGa

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Last edited by SaGa; 07-25-2013 at 03:34 PM.
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post #6 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 02:46 PM
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Duco cement 6243 or rear view mirror cement is quite tenacious. Silicone based bathroom adhesive also works well.

Attempting to glue the tabs to acetone cleaned glass and tabs is almost free....

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post #7 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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I won't discount any options, AVConsult. That said, this car lives in the south currently, though not quite as south as you. So while your location has probably already helped to answer my question, I'll ask anyway: How would those adhesives hold up to the kind of heat you get, along with occasional cold/light-winter-weather of the states just north of yours?
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post #8 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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I had the same issue in my Highlander and fixed it in 30 minutes. Super easy fix honestly.

First roll the window nearly all the way down, maybe leave an inch or so of glass peaking.

Use the info in this thread to remove the panel.
DIY Door Panel Removal

Once the panel is off, check the rear clip on the regulator. If the bolt is missing, fish around on the inside of the bottom of your door to find the missing bolt and and reattach it.

If its still there then check the front clip. It will be behind the speaker at this point so you'll want to remove the speaker to gain access to it. There is also a plug to the left of the speaker that I had to remove to get to the clip. It all depends on where your window is at. I had to plug the door panel back in to get it to the right place. If the bolt is missing in action, fish around the bottom again and reattach.

Worst case scenario, your clip is broken. This is what happened to me. Toyota wanted $600 to fix and I laughed at the guy and walked out. Don't waste your time using an adhesive. It's merely a bandaid. Take a trip to NAPA and ask for part #665-2154. It's a window sash assortment for some GM vehicles. One of the clips is nearly identical to ours. However it is taller. Simply pull off the factory one from the window. The adhesive seal is easy to pry off by hand. Compare it to the clips in the assortment, the one you need doesn't have a threaded hole, it's just an open U shaped channel that you'll use to bolt it up. You'll need to cut about 3/8" off the bottom of it if I remember. After replacing the clip, roll your window up and just smile and give Toyota the middle finger for wanting your first born to fix the window knowing that you did it for $10. I didn't use any adhesive with mine and it has been fine for over 6 months. For added security I suppose you could use an adhesive with the clip as well just in case.

Last edited by DarksideHL; 07-25-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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post #9 of 25 Old 07-25-2013, 10:50 PM
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Darkside speakers wisely.

EDIT: AVConsult types badly.

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post #10 of 25 Old 07-26-2013, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, guys! This should all be very helpful.

A little more background that I found out after posting: She told me that the dealer had told her that the bolts on those tabs had backed out, and that they would re-tighten them. They later came back saying the tabs were cracked, so they could only tighten them down so far, and the problem she is having would eventually happen again. Now I'm seeing why they claimed that replacing the glass was needed, because the problem did return.

Hopefully your solution works as well for her as it did for you, DarksideHL.

I'll keep you all posted if there are any changes or news over the weekend.

-SaGa

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post #11 of 25 Old 07-31-2013, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Hey folks, sorry for the delay with the update. So the door was taken apart over the weekend. I was sent a few pictures that I will try to post up later today. In the meantime I'll describe it as best I can. The holes on the bottom of the glass that the regulator bolts into do not appear to be damaged. However, the actual tab that holds the front one to the glass is broken, to the point where she was able to actually separate it from the glass, which you'll see in the pictures. I can't tell if it's some kind of bonding that came loose, or if it's plastic that just sheared apart. I guess this explains why the glass seemed to dip forward a bit and get out of alignment, though.

She said she was planning to buy a replacement glass, but I don't believe she has done so yet, and I still wanted to throw the info and photos up here for input from the forum, and in case it helps anyone else in the future. I will try to get the pics loaded later this evening.

-SaGa

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post #12 of 25 Old 07-31-2013, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SaGa View Post
Hey folks, sorry for the delay with the update. So the door was taken apart over the weekend. I was sent a few pictures that I will try to post up later today. In the meantime I'll describe it as best I can. The holes on the bottom of the glass that the regulator bolts into do not appear to be damaged. However, the actual tab that holds the front one to the glass is broken, to the point where she was able to actually separate it from the glass, which you'll see in the pictures. I can't tell if it's some kind of bonding that came loose, or if it's plastic that just sheared apart. I guess this explains why the glass seemed to dip forward a bit and get out of alignment, though.

She said she was planning to buy a replacement glass, but I don't believe she has done so yet, and I still wanted to throw the info and photos up here for input from the forum, and in case it helps anyone else in the future. I will try to get the pics loaded later this evening.
Don't buy new glass! Use my post above and get the window sash assortment from Napa that I referenced. All it takes is 30 seconds with a hacksaw to trim the base to size and it works perfectly. Just unscrew the broken piece off the track, size it up to the sash, trim it, reattach the modified bracket, and voila...no more messed up window! The part was like $10 I believe.
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post #13 of 25 Old 08-20-2013, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Long overdue update: The window has been fixed. A new window was purchased and installed DIY with no issues and everything works like a charm again. What she decided to do was keep the broken part and attempt to fix it using DarksideHL's method so that she will have a spare window just in case this happens again.

I will still get the pictures posted, just haven't really had the time to, and I thought I could post them directly but now realize I'll have to have them hosted and post a link.

Thank you again to everyone who provided info to help with this. This is definitely one of the better forum communities online.

-SaGa

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post #14 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 11:21 AM
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I just wanted to follow up and see if the epoxy from Napa worked or if you had to replace the clip? I have the same issue on an '09 highlander so am currently researching my options for fixing it. It seems many people had luck with a replacement clip from Napa (actually for GM cars but works for Toyota with slighty modifications).
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post #15 of 25 Old 03-26-2014, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, there. Sorry for kind of forgetting about this thread. The owner chose to buy a replacement glass from eBay, which came with new tabs on it, and that was installed on the vehicle by the owner and a friend. Everything works fine again. I don't recall how much the glass was, but it wasn't all that expensive. I want to say $130, but I can't remember exactly so don't quote me on that. Prices could also have changed since then anyway. If you decide to look into it as an option, just pay attention to whether or not the one you're looking at comes with the same mild factory tint that I believe most, if not all, Highlanders come with on their front door glasses. It's just a very faint, greenish tint you can't really notice til it isn't there. Some of the options available on eBay did not come with this tint.

-SaGa

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