DIY Coolant Change: Part Locations and Comments (Oh and Thermostat Replacement) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 06-22-2014, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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DIY Coolant Change: Part Locations and Comments (Oh and Thermostat Replacement)

I'm not doing a step-by-step DIY, just posting a bit of info that isn't readily available online.

OEM interval: 100k mile initial change, 50k mile changes subsequently
Cooling System Capacities:
With Tow Package, With Rear AC: 12.4 qts
With Tow Package, Without Rear AC: 10 qts
Without Tow Package, With Rear AC: 11.6 qts
Without Tow Package, Without Rear AC: 9.3 qts

Useful Things to have:
Tool
-I used this, really handy funnel for bleeding the system. There are other guides online on how exactly to utilize this specialized funnel.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403409678&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=radiator+bleeder+funnel
-Some kind of hose for the engine block drains. I unfortunately don't know the exact size, I just found some random hose that fit and I didn't measure...sorry.


Coolant
You want either Toyota Pink or Valvoline's Zerex Asian. Both are non-silicate coolants required for this engine, its the only ones I know of at the moment that are compatible.
OEM Pink P/N: 00272-SLLC2
Valvoline Zerex Asian: http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-675130-Vehicle-Anitfreeze-Coolant/dp/B0033QO022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403409804&sr=8-1&keywords=asian+zerex
I found the zerex to be half the price of the pink at the dealerships, you can get the pink online at OEM retailers for ~$15-20 though. I can only find pre-diluted ones unfortunately. I just went with the Zerex because I could get it w/ free shipping.

According to Toyota, this is what they require of coolants for this motor. Match your coolant to meet this:
Quote:
TOYOTA vehicles are filled with TOYOTA SLLC at the factory. In order to avoid damage to the engine cooling system and other technical problems, only use TOYOTA SLLC or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids)
Part Locations:
Radiator Drain
The radiator drain is on the bottom driver side of the radiator. Its a simple plastic wing nut to control the flow, drains out the whole shown. Its a very small valve, it won't flow very much so it takes a long time to drain.



Radiator Bleeder Valve
Its a 6mm hex fitting on top of the upper radiator hose inlet, however I didn't use it during this as I had that funnel that eliminated it from the equation.

Engine Bleeder Valve
Pop the engine cover off and its shown below. Actual valve portion is a 10mm bolt. Don't remove the main valve, just open the darker bolt in the center.


Engine Block Rear Bank Drain
Its on the back of the block (facing the firewall). It is directly behind where the transfer case would be on a awd model and directly below the rear bank exhaust manifold. That's the passenger side wheel axle casing in the bottom and the transaxle in the bottom left to give you an idea of the area. Valve bolt is 10mm, DON'T loosen the valve itself just the center bolt.


Engine Block Front Bank Drain
The front one is much harder to get too. It sits between the AC compressor and engine oil cooler. Directly behind the dipstick, about half way up the block. I found its much much easier if you get the dipstick out of the way. A 12mm bolt holds it up top, undo that and pull it straight up, and it will pop free.




What I Did and Comments
I did not do a flush using distilled water, just a simple fluid exchange. Because there was no concentrate available (only 50:50 split), I'd never get the concentration right if I did a flush.

What I did do: As near 100% exchange as possible, replaced both upper and lower radiator hoses, replaced thermostat and thermostat steal.

Part numbers for OEM parts used:
Lower Radiator Hose: 16572-0P220 ~$19
Upper Radiator Hose: 16572-0P210 ~$19
Thermostat:90916-A3002 ~$15
Thermostat Gasket: 16325-62010 ~$4

So what I did was drain everything (engine and radiator) then removed the both the front and rear heater core coolant lines. Those were still full of coolant as they don't drain with the engine drain. I used my air compressor with the regulator set to about 10psi (or ball parked, my regulator between 0->20psi isn't very clear.) to push out all the old coolant out of the heater core/lines. It gets the vast majority of the lines, and gets the bulk out of the heater core (though not all). It gets enough for me to be comfortable with. Considering it took just short of 2.8gal to refill it all back up and the total capacity is ~3.1-3.2gal, I think I got enough of it.

While it was all drained, went ahead and replaced the hoses and the thermostat.
Here is how you get to the thermostat...
-The hose that comes out above the serpentine belt is the one your after. The thermostat is on the outlet port. But first...the belt/idler pulley.
-You need to loosen the belt tensioner; I've posted in the past how to do it here: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/12...tine-belt.html You don't need to remove the belt, just give it some slack.
-Next the idler pulley. Its simple, once the tension is off the belt, take a 14mm socket and remove the bolt. Don't lose the washer that's on it, its what makes the bolt only put pressure on the bearing casing and not the pulley itself.. idler is marked below as "pulley"

-Note: when re-installing, simply rebolt on the pulley, the torque rating is ~35-40ftlbs (I can't remember exactly atm), I did it to 45ftlbs. Once its back in place, remove the key from the tensioner and your good to go.

-Next the outlet port needs to come off to get to the thermostat. There are 2 nuts that hold the outlet to the block, marked below in yellow. The one not visible is a a bit difficult to get too. They are 10mm nuts. I used a deep socket and a 6" extension to get to the hidden one. Pass it over the alternator pulley, it will reach and allow easy access with a ratchet.

And your prize.

And your 2nd prize, just pull it out.


The thermostat has a jiggle valve on the casing to allow air to escape when bleeding. It needs to be facing up at 12o'clock on re-installation.

Reverse for reinstall, there is a torque for those nuts, but its fairly low, I just snugged it all up with the ratchet.


And now for the headache, the rear heater core had been the biggest PITA to deal with. It got air in it (obviously) and I couldn't for the life of me get it out. The front core and engine didn't have any air in it. When I was bleeding the system, I had the front jacked up as high as I could make it (~20" lift on my floor jack), and had the RPM at 2000rpm, it wasn't enough pressure in the cooling system to force the air out. Though idiot me didn't try to really put my foot into it to try and force it that way. I ended up driving up the steepest hill I know of at 6500rpm to force the air out, and it did the trick. Toyota really should have done some kind of bleeder valve way back there, would have made my life so much easier.
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post #2 of 19 Old 06-22-2014, 08:12 AM
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Sweeney,

You need to sticky this for those inclined to do it themselves. I'm past that vintage now but this certainly alleviates any confusion and where to find all the connections. Nice job!.

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post #3 of 19 Old 06-22-2014, 12:08 PM
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Your usual excellent work. Thanks for posting.

I've seen the bleeder valve more than once working in this area and never gave it much thought as it's not documented in my '05-'07 Avalon 2GR-FE FSM. They've been on Honda's for years. I have drained the block thru the front drain, but did not know there was one for the rear as well. Make sense as the engine is V-shaped - just turned side ways.

I have the Lisle air bleed funnel and cannot sing high enough praise for it. No more mess burping a cooling system. Use it on all of my cars.
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post #4 of 19 Old 06-22-2014, 12:17 PM
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Another very useful post! Thanks for taking the time to do it.

+2 on the Lisle funnel. Makes the job much easier.

I might also add a reminder to others doing this to check the coolant level in a week or so and top it off as necessary.

Last edited by Vbpiper; 06-22-2014 at 12:56 PM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 06-23-2014, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Murrell View Post
I've seen the bleeder valve more than once working in this area and never gave it much thought as it's not documented in my '05-'07 Avalon 2GR-FE FSM. They've been on Honda's for years. I have drained the block thru the front drain, but did not know there was one for the rear as well. Make sense as the engine is V-shaped - just turned side ways.
Yeah, the FSM was semi worthless. It was kinda like "yeah there is a drain, where? Good luck" So I figured I'd post where they were.

As for one side drain from another, one gets 90% of the fluid. I did the rear first, drained for about 3-4min, then did the front, and ti only drained for about 15-20sec.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vbpiper View Post
A
I might also add a reminder to others doing this to check the coolant level in a week or so and top it off as necessary.
+1

I had checked mine earlier today after driving, and even after both heater cores had been blowing hot air, the system still sucked down a full tank's full of coolant (it was at the bottom). Gotta love air in the system, that rear AC is a PITA to bleed.

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post #6 of 19 Old 06-25-2014, 06:11 PM
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When I did mine, I also had an issue with the air in the system. I just drove it for a few days and kept checking the overflow tank and adding there. Eventually it stopped wanting coolant so I assumed its all out.
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-11-2015, 06:00 PM
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So I drain and filled the radiator and have no heat coming through the vents now. The first time I did this, I didn't open the bleeder valves (I didn't know), then just drove around and heated to circulate the coolant.

After that, I drain and filled the radiator once again, this time with the bleeder open (both engine and radiator bleeders) and got the car to operating temp for ~20 minutes with both bleeders open while squeezing the upper radiator hose and filling with coolant. This was done on my driveway which has a slight incline.

I've had the heater setting on hot with the blower fan on and off for 5 minute intervals.

I still have no heat coming out the radiator, any ideas?

Last edited by satek; 03-11-2015 at 06:16 PM.
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-11-2015, 07:42 PM
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Which coolant did you use?

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post #9 of 19 Old 03-11-2015, 08:03 PM
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Thanks for getting back. I used Zerex Asian.

I fixed it after letting it cool off and driving it again; it seems to work fine now. It wasn't getting hot while I was actually bleeding the system for some reason.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satek View Post
Thanks for getting back. I used Zerex Asian.

I fixed it after letting it cool off and driving it again; it seems to work fine now. It wasn't getting hot while I was actually bleeding the system for some reason.
you had air in the heater core, easy to cause when bleeding the system. Depending on how you bleed it and where you got the RPM during bleeding will determine how easily the air is pushed out. If you have rear HVAC make sure its heat is working. It took me goign up a steep hill with the RPM near 4-6k to force coolant into its heater core in the rear of the car.

Also make sure your fluid level is still right. If its suddenly started working, the air was replaced with fluid, draining your tank.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-26-2015, 12:02 PM
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Sweeneyp,
Nice write up, Thank You...
If using the Lisle funnel do you need to open the bleeder valve on the top engine? If so do you open it while draining the old coolant or while adding the new coolant.
I plan on doing just a drain of the radiator and engine block and refill with Toyota pink. I have 38,000 miles on my HL and don't want to wait till 5 years or 100,000 miles.


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post #12 of 19 Old 03-27-2015, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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You might be able to get away without opening up the engine top bleeder, but its going to make purging the air a longer and harder process. Its a quick job to open that valve up, then just fill the radiator until you see coolant come out that valve and close it. You only need to open it up when filling, assuming the radiator cap is open, air will enter the engine block via that opening when draining. Though if your only draining the radiator, it won't matter.

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post #13 of 19 Old 03-27-2015, 07:29 AM
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I plan on draining the radiator and the engine block. That makes sense to open the top of engine bleeder valve when I fill with new coolant to bleed air out. Which engine block drain did you get the most old coolant out of, the rear one on the firewall side or the front one behind the dip stick?
Also, when you blew out the heater core did you take the heater core hoses off the engine or the firewall? I would guess the engine.
Thanks for this great DYI write up and your quick response.

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-30-2015, 10:18 AM
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Did my drain and fill on the radiator and engine block this weekend, so I answered my own questions I last posted. I drained out a total of 2 gallons of old coolant and it took in just a tad under 2 gallons for refill. I didn't flush or drain the heater core hoses as at 38,000 miles the fluid I drained looked really good. I did open the engine bleeder valve while filling till coolant started coming out and then closed it. I did use the Lisle Spill-Free Funnel and it worked great. I also used the Zerex Asian coolant I bought from Napa for $13.99 per gallon vs. Toyota pink at $21.43 per gallon from the dealer.
I did have to refill the overflow tank the next morning as it sucked almost all of it back in to the radiator. Word of caution to anyone doing this job, only unscrew the drain plug on the radiator a couple of turns till it starts to drain. Any added turns and the plug will come all the way out and make a mess.

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post #15 of 19 Old 10-26-2015, 08:46 PM
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Just flushed/refilled the coolant in my 2010 Highlander. Didn't see this till after I was already done. I did drain the engine block and radiator, but not the heater cores. I also got 2 gallons out, and put 2 gallons back in. So I guess I got about 66% of it changed. Old coolant didn't look bad, so I'm probably ok. 91,500 miles on it, if it's the original stuff. (I purchased the Highlander used a few years ago.) I also tow a boat regularly during the summer months, so also drained/changed the ATF & filter. Drained/changed the fluid twice, so feel I got a good amount of the ATF changed out. (Can never get the Torque Converter fluid..) Thanks for this writeup. I'll remember the heater cores if there is a next time.
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