A little background, I started making & selling replacement wiring, lighting & ECU harness kits back in 2001 with a partner (an Army electrical engineer). Catered mainly to the German car crowd, Porsche, Audi, BMW, VW, etc. About 75% of all Porsches ever made are still on the road today, so there's a market for pretty much any and all factory parts.
Rather than just making OEM wiring, I upgraded the specs and performance and gave a 10-year warranty (15-years later, no claims yet and most installations look brand-new). I incorporated designs from aerospace, mil-spec and Formula-1 wiring. These types of wiring demand durability and reliability with F1 throwing in extreme-performance requirements.
This popular lighting-upgrade kit uses exact same 55/60w power-consumption as stock. Difference is in more efficient wiring and lights.
Overall theme is balance of all components. Your list of wiring & connectors is mis-matched in that the 4/0 cable can handle +400-amps, but the battery and alternator will never be able to sustain that level. And the crimp-on ring-terminal has a cross-sectional area less than 10% of the wiring. Any single point of bottleneck dictates the maximum-throughput of the entire system. So 90% of your cable's capacity is wasted by the narrow ring-terminal connection. For anything above 10-amps, use lugs. Also add capacitors at the amp to provide overhead power above RMS levels. Here's the components & procedures I use.
- mil-spec cable
has each wire-strand individually tinned
to prevent green/black wire-disease in the event the insulation is breached. Also makes soldering easier.
- mil-spec cable
uses high-temp insulation with 150-200C rating. That means silicone, ETFE or FEP insulation
. Common PVC used in most wiring is only good up to 100C and many places in the engine-compartment is hotter than that. The temp-limit affects durability and PVC insulation won't last more than 10-15 years in hot engine-compartment (it will work longer than that if you don't touch or move it). It gets crispy and can crack with vibration & movement. Cracks then let in moisture which starts green/black wire-disease.
- mil-spec battery connectors
made from zinc
are more conductive than lead or stainless-steel. Also not affected by battery-acid. Use anti-acid rings and protective-coating over the terminals once everything's installed. The large 3/8" cable-lug clamp-bolt also provides larger contact surface-area to transmit lots of power. Example: NOCO TZKIT3
- tinned solder-pot lugs
on cable ends, crimped, soldered and wrapped
. Stamped steel terminals are thin, don't conduct well, and wear out quickly with weight of cable and vibration. Example: tinned seamless lugs
- fibreglass or carbon-fibre sleeve
on the wire for true abrasion & heat-resistance
. Most stuff on the market is polyester or some other plastic that's for show, but will rip or melt when facing engine-compartment conditions. Such as being pulled through the firewall or accidentally touching the exhaust.
- chemical-shrink wrap
rather than heat-shrink. Has tighter 5 to 8:1 shrink-ratio
for tighter wrapping and sealing. Also has higher heat-resistance once applied.
- drill hole in end of lug for solder
- install cable and crimp
- heat lug and completely fill with solder to maximize contact surface-area. Note lug is much thicker and has wider contact area for transmitting power across.
- wrap & shrink joint to seal against moisture. Also provides a mechanical strain-relief between flexible-cable and stiff lug.
- install fibreglass sleeving, wrap & shrink over one end, stretch sleeve and wrap & shrink other end
The result is a cable with ends that can actually transfer all the power that the cable can handle. Also mechanically strong with heat & weather resistance to last 50-years!