Brake/clutch bleeding nipple size - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Corolla 7th Generation (1993-1997) Specific discussion of the 7th generation

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post #1 of 11 Old 05-25-2019, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Brake/clutch bleeding nipple size

I wanted to bleed the brakes on my 1995 corolla but the nipples are corroded so i want to replace them. Does anyone know what size nipples are used in a 1995 corolla? Pic related: it's my Corolla!
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-25-2019, 09:02 AM
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Welcome to Toyota Nation! Usually asking parts store clerks will get you the correct bleeders. Unfortunately I don't know what the thread is.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-25-2019, 04:43 PM
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Hi and welcome to TN!

Thread should be 7x1mm
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-25-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the welcome guys! So that's M7x1?
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-25-2019, 07:27 PM
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Yup.

You can also get these bleeders. Makes one-person brake-bleeding piece of cake!

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Even the McParts stores carry those, and I was going to get some for a car one time, possibly my old '93, but they told me that they didn't sell them in my car's size.

I was always under the impression that these were just for bleeding, and that you needed to somehow put the originals back in once finished. But the dust caps make them appear to be a permanent installation.

I usually just pump them and then wedge a 2x4 between the pedal and the seat bottom, and then I open the bleeders and try to shut them before the bleed-stream subsides. But nothing beats having two people.

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post #7 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 02:30 PM
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They work just like regular bleeders, but they have internal check-valves so fluid only flows one-way outwards. One-man procedure goes like this:

1. Add fluid to resevoir
2. Push hose onto bleeder nipple, dangle end in cup
3. Unscrew bleeder screw about 1/2 to 3/4 turn
4. Gently step on brake-pedal 2-5 times to push out old fluid
5. Tighten bleeder screw, remove hose
6. Go back to #1 for next wheel

That's it! No need to coordinate opening-pumping-closing-release dance with assistant. No bubbles working their way backwards when you miss-time a step.
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
They work just like regular bleeders, but they have internal check-valves so fluid only flows one-way outwards. One-man procedure goes like this:

1. Add fluid to resevoir
2. Push hose onto bleeder nipple, dangle end in cup
3. Unscrew bleeder screw about 1/2 to 3/4 turn
4. Gently step on brake-pedal 2-5 times to push out old fluid
5. Tighten bleeder screw, remove hose
6. Go back to #1 for next wheel

That's it! No need to coordinate opening-pumping-closing-release dance with assistant. No bubbles working their way backwards when you miss-time a step.
I guess it's just the thing for racers who need to purge off old over-heated brake fluid often.
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post #9 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete Suhman View Post
I guess it's just the thing for racers who need to purge off old over-heated brake fluid often.
Yeah! Heh, heh, more like lazy ADD squirrels! Always trying to find way to do things easier in less time!
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post #10 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 07:42 PM
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Isn't there a chance that air will be sucked back in around the threads? That's what I don't like about these one-man-job setups.

...and it's depressing to think that so many people can't find a friend or relative that's willing to sit in the drivers seat for 5 minutes and press the brake pedal!
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post #11 of 11 Old 05-26-2019, 09:17 PM
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Bah, I don't like depending upon anyone and I especially don't like trusting anyone!!!

Risk of sucking air at threads exists for 2-man operation as well when timing is off. Best way to mitigate that is to unscrew just enough to allow fluid to flow out; usually 1/2-3/4 turns max.
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