DIY 2005-2006 Corolla XRS and 2003-2006 Matrix XRS & Vibe GT Spark Plug Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 32 Old 05-25-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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DIY 2005-2006 Corolla XRS and 2003-2006 Matrix XRS & Vibe GT Spark Plug Replacement

DIY Spark Plug Replacement

This is a simple DIY and it doesnít need to be done often!

Disclaimer: Toyota Nation nor I are responsible to any accident, injury or damage to you or your vehicle. This is not a repair manual it is a guide. Use at your discretion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyota
144 MONTHS/192,000KM (120,000MI): REPLACE SPARK PLUGS

Replace iridium spark plugs every 192,000km (120,000mi)

Spark plug type:

1ZZ-FE engine: DENSO SK16R11 (Denso Iridium Long Life Stock #3324) or NGK IFR5T11 (NGK Laser Iridium Stock #4996)
2ZZ-GE engine: DENSO SK20R11 (Denso Iridium Long Life Stock #3297) or NGK IFR6T11 (NGK Laser Iridium Stock #4589)

Spark plug gap, mm (in.):
1.1 (0.043)

Note that using spark plugs other than the two listed for either your 1ZZ-FE or 2ZZ-GE may decrease the performance and fuel efficiency of the engine as well as a reduce the mileage between spark plug change intervals. It is highly unadvisable to change from the OE Iridium Spark plugs to a Regular or even Platinum spark plug. It is also unadvisable to use spark plugs from another manufacture. Denso and NGK are designed to work optimally with your Corollas' ignition system.


Purchase Notes:

If you are replacing the plugs with either the OEM style Denso or NGK Long-Life Iridium plugs then that is the interval.

Like Toyota, I donít recommend running a platinum plug or standard plug on either #ZZ engine. Nor would I run something like AC Delco or Bosch plugs on a Japanese make. Same goes for sensors such as the 02. Like Batteries: Donít mix plug types and manufactures (, Like run 3 Denso Iridium and 1 Bosch Platinum or something stupid)

*Note I have a 2ZZ-GE so part #s donít reflect the 1ZZ-FE.

I decided to skip on the OEM Denso and go with NGK. The Auto Parts store didnít carry the Laser Iridium NGK IFR6T11. Curiously, itís not listed when I searched for the plug on the NGK website either. The only Iridium plug for the 2ZZ-GE listed is the NGK Iridium IX (BKR6EIX-11, Stock #3764). I have seen Iridium IX used by various members before on both 1ZZ and 2ZZ without any problems. These are regarded as performance plugs, sacrificing longevity for performance. Recommended interval is half the long life or 60,000mi (96,000km). I donít have a problem with this because mileage is not a concern, changing plugs is easy and running an Injen RD2082 on the factory ECU so that means that Iím running a bit lean over stock though I am compensating this by running 94 Octane. For the 1ZZ I would still recommend the stated Long Life Iridium plugs.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK...idium%20IX.pdf

Tools:

10mm wrench
3/8ís Ratchet drive with long extension.
10mm socket, 5/8 Spark plug socket
Small flat-head screw-driver (recommended but not shown)



Note: Spark Plug Sockets have a rubber insert


For this magical reason


Parts:
Recommended: OEM Replacement
1ZZ-FE: DENSO SK16R11 (Denso Iridium Long Life Stock #3324) or NGK IFR5T-11 (NGK Laser Iridium Stock #4996)

2ZZ-GE: DENSO SK20R11 (Denso Iridium Long Life Stock #3297) or NGK IFR6T-11 (NGK Laser Iridium Stock #4589)

Optional: Performance
1ZZ-FE: DENSO IK16 (Denso Iridium Power Stock #5303) or NGK BKR5EIX-11 (NGK Iridium IX Stock #5464)

2ZZ-GE: DENSO IK20 (Denso Iridium Power Stock #5304) or NGK BKR6EIX-11 (NGK Iridium IX Stock #3764)

Quantity is 4 spark plugs.

These are NGK Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 Stock No. 3764. I got them for $44 CAD tax included (list would have been like $70). Long life plugs are a little bit more expensive.





Procedure:

Car should be cold when replacing spark plugs. I would recommend that it has sat more than 2h since driven. Do not start engine. Pop and lift hood.

Disconnect battery lead negative terminal with 10mm wrench.

Yes itís raining a little, Iím dedicated.


Take off engine cover with 10mm socket there is 2 nuts and 2 bolts (a stud is broken on mine, it was like that when I purchased it). On the 1ZZ, I think you guys have plastic clips or something stupid.

Old photo when it was sunny!




I recommend doing one spark plug at a time. Disconnect connector to Coil on Plug (using the small flat head to wedge the other end of the tab up while you press the tab is a safe and easy way to do the disconnect). Undo 10mm holding coil on plug to valve cover. For the 1ZZ-FE you have to remove the wiring harness for the coils from the valve cover with 2 10mm bolts to remove the COP (you can do this for the 2ZZ-GE but I found enough space to install/remove COP). Put COP and bolt somewhere safe. Make sure area on valve cover is clean and that you wonít drop anything into the hole where the spark plug is during removal and installation. Remove the spark plug with the ratchet, 5/8 plug socket and extension.





Check spark plug for damage and condition:

http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/te...-plug-analysis

Note: If you find oil on the COP and spark plug insulator you should change your valve cover gasket (THIS IS NOT THE HEAD GASKET).

Almost all modern spark plugs come pre-gapped and donít need adjustment for new install.
Donít drop the plug into the hole, use the plug socket with extension.
Start threading the plug in by hand on the end of the extension (no ratchet) so you donít cross thread the plug. You cross thread it and youíre in a world of $#!+. It should turn in by hand until it fully seats.

Spark Plug Torque:
1ZZ-FE: 19ft.lb (25N.m)
2ZZ-GE: 13ft.lb (18N.m)
(Not a lot) Itís literally 1/8 of a revolution after you seat it by hand.

Replace COP with 10mm bolt and reconnect the connector.

Repeat for 3 other plugs.

Reconnect Battery.

Start engine and listen for abnormalities in engine start cranking or operation.

If okay: replace engine cover and drop hood, car is ready to be driven.
______________________

I gave it a little drive and it seemed to accelerate better on the 2-3rpm pull in higher gears. Engine felt stable at idle.


Last edited by hardtopte72; 12-03-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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post #2 of 32 Old 05-25-2014, 11:06 PM
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Nice DIY. I noticed this was not there and I was planning on posting one.

For the record, putting dielectric grease (a small amount) on the porcelain part of the plug is a good practice. Those plugs get very hot while running and cool down a lot when the engine is shut off for any decent amount of time. This causes the rubber COP boots to bake onto the plugs. This is more of an issue with vehicles that have spark plug wires (mainly because people pull on the wire instead of the boot). The grease keeps a coating between the two and almost completely eliminates this issue.

Do not put a lot of it. This is a case where, if a little is good, a lot is not better. If you put too much it just melts when it gets hot and makes a mess.

Also, for the record, anti-seize should NOT be used on the plugs for this vehicle. Both NGK and Denso coats their plug's threads with a coating that does the same thing as anti-seize (prevents galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals and electricity). Anti-Seize will also make the plugs seem to go in easier and sometimes they break before they hit OEM recommended torque. If you remove the plugs and intend to re-use them, I would apply anti-seize because the NGK/Denso coating will have worn off. When they are reinstalled they can galvanize and you'll have fun getting them out again. If you do this only use NICKEL-based anti-seize.
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post #3 of 32 Old 05-26-2014, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Great input, thanks!

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post #4 of 32 Old 05-26-2014, 04:18 PM
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Now I'm going to change it myself rather than have my mechanic do it. Thanks!

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post #5 of 32 Old 05-27-2014, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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For a slight re-cap these are the factory Denso Long Life pulled at 100,000km (apparently good for another 92,000km)

Note these aren't in order of cylinders I just tossed them in the IX boxes with the card stock protector not to damage the tip. None were dropped or mishandled during removal.





They seem to be in okay condition, I found a small discrepancy between the gap size on the plugs. Feeler was around 0.042in or 0.041in (0.043in was not fitting), but I didn't clean them or anything.

I was having a slight issue with vibration at idle, and a while back I had a small but noticeable cyclic shake around 3000rpm under load that seemed to be rpm dependent as it would not decrease or increase directly with vehicle speed. Also I have been noticing over the past 5 years decreasing fuel efficiency (and now with new plugs in, power).

I'll probably be able to tell improvement with the 1/2 tank or so on the new plugs...

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post #6 of 32 Old 05-27-2014, 10:39 PM
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Oh, btw, coming from a guy who works in a parts store, I find many "pregapped" spark plugs that are not even close to being right. I'm talking .005"-.010" off. I'm not sure what they are doing to cause that but I always check the plugs first. For plugs that say "Do not gap", you can check them with a normal feeler gauge, just be gentle, DO NOT FORCE IT. You cannot bend it with a normal gap gauge though, you have to use a special gap gauge to bend them out.

NGK's video on it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY

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post #7 of 32 Old 05-28-2014, 07:38 AM
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I used a small amount of anti seize on my plugs. The old ones were very treacherous to remove, so I didn't want to deal with that issue later down the road. They were the OEM plugs too, so IDK if they had ever been replaced.

Just my .02

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post #8 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 11:01 AM
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I need to do this service also. I also have a leaking valve cover gasket. What tool do you recommend to remove the old gasket? I have a plastic tool I wanna use but not sure if it will do the job. I also heard that if using a metal tool it can possibly gouge and the new gasket will not seat properly. Thanks.

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post #9 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Most of the contamination and sealant is easy to remove, the gasket should be okay. Perhaps a little bit of solvent to break it down and clean.

Here's a short video on it for the 1ZZ-FE (not done by me).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0SfExOrozg

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post #10 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 01:19 PM
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Exage who do you use for your parts store?

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post #11 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opsknight View Post
Exage who do you use for your parts store?
For the plugs I went to a local parts store (I won't disclose the name for location for anonymity). I used to work there (actually my first job, nearly a decade ago) and I have a membership so it's 30% off the list price.

Lordco for MT-90. Somehow Amsoil is purchasable at Crappy Tire. Dealer for some parts. eBay (Injen) and other internet sites (Techna-Fit was direct).

Most of my tools are Craftsman.


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post #12 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exage View Post
For the plugs I went to a local parts store (I won't disclose the name for location for anonymity). I used to work there (actually my first job, nearly a decade ago) and I have a membership so it's 30% off the list price.

Lordco for MT-90. Somehow Amsoil is purchasable at Crappy Tire. Dealer for some parts. eBay (Injen) and other internet sites (Techna-Fit was direct).

Most of my tools are Craftsman.
Cool..Thx. I am still trying to decide if anyone of the chain stores is better than the other for toyo. I used to work for Napa in the early 00's, but their website is absolute garbage unless you know the exact part you need.

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post #13 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opsknight View Post
Cool..Thx. I am still trying to decide if anyone of the chain stores is better than the other for toyo. I used to work for Napa in the early 00's, but their website is absolute garbage unless you know the exact part you need.
Depends on what parts/manufactures you are getting. I just remembered that they carried NGK/NTK because I wasn't going to mess around with +$60 CAD Denso Long Life on eBay (I did look) and wasn't planning to go to the dealer.

I try to support local business if I can. For the more "exotic" stuff not found close by then it's an internet purchase.

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post #14 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exage View Post
Depends on what parts/manufactures you are getting. I just remembered that they carried NGK/NTK because I wasn't going to mess around with +$60 CAD Denso Long Life on eBay (I did look) and wasn't planning to go to the dealer.

I try to support local business if I can. For the more "exotic" stuff not found close by then it's an internet purchase.
Well Napa actually carries the Denso LL's and the NGK IX's. The Denso's are $1 more per plug and about $2 less than the going price Ebay. I wish we had mom and pop shops here. It's all chains here in OKC..but there is one on every corner and like 5 different companies..so I can always find parts. Good thing I guess. Just makes it tough to call one "My Parts Guy".

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post #15 of 32 Old 05-29-2014, 02:46 PM
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Also great DIY. Just keep in mind 1ZZFE owners will need to remove the 2 10mm nuts and wiring harness holder to be able to remove all the coils.

I buy my Denso plugs at AAP, using a 30% coupon code. Works with NGK also. I would rather run Long Life plugs on my 1ZZ.

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Last edited by hardtopte72; 05-29-2014 at 03:13 PM.
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