Cold Start Temp Switch - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Corolla 6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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post #1 of 20 Old 06-06-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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I’m going to be replacing the Cold Start Temp Switch 89462-20030 and the instructions I can find online call for thread sealant. Any recommendations for a sensor/coolant safe thread sealer?

Thanks, Eugene

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post #2 of 20 Old 06-06-2019, 04:32 PM
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Do you have the Toyota Repair Manual? It will list a part number for the sealant, then you can search for an equivalent.

The coolant safe is more important than the sensor safe part because the electronics are sealed inside metal. Permatex probably has something that will work.

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post #3 of 20 Old 06-06-2019, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DrZ View Post
Do you have the Toyota Repair Manual? It will list a part number for the sealant, then you can search for an equivalent.

The coolant safe is more important than the sensor safe part because the electronics are sealed inside metal. Permatex probably has something that will work.
Unfortunately no manual.
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-11-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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So, I got the new switch from Toyota and it has a copper crush washer. Does that mean no thread sealant is required? Is there a torque value or just ďGood n TightĒ? Sorry, itís not my car. Iím just trying to help a friend out who is financially challenged.

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post #5 of 20 Old 06-11-2019, 04:33 PM
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I don't have my repair manual with me, so I can't look up torque values. I know the fan switch doesn't need sealant nor does the block drain plug. I'd just make it about as tight as the original, and check if the original had a washer. If it's going into aluminum be careful not to overtighten. Fill with coolant and check that it's not leaking and it should be fine. I don't think there's too much risk of it loosening by itself if it's not tight enough, it's just that it will leak/weep a very small smount of coolant. Check it again for leaking after a bit of driving if you can.

1990 Corolla DX sedan, 4A-FE, 3-speed auto A131L
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1997 Corolla DX sedan, 7A-FE, 4-speed auto A245E
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-12-2019, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have my repair manual with me, so I can't look up torque values. I know the fan switch doesn't need sealant nor does the block drain plug. I'd just make it about as tight as the original, and check if the original had a washer. If it's going into aluminum be careful not to overtighten. Fill with coolant and check that it's not leaking and it should be fine. I don't think there's too much risk of it loosening by itself if it's not tight enough, it's just that it will leak/weep a very small smount of coolant. Check it again for leaking after a bit of driving if you can.
Will do. Thanks. I’ve been using Toyota Red in her car. Do you think it would be safe to change it over to the Toyota Pink? That way she can get a jug of Zerex if she were to need it?
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post #7 of 20 Old 06-12-2019, 09:51 PM
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I'm not sure about the coolant types. You'd have to look up what is compatible. I've always used the regular Prestone green stuff in my 1990.

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post #8 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 01:51 PM
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I'm not sure about the coolant types. You'd have to look up what is compatible. I've always used the regular Prestone green stuff in my 1990.
Same here. I use the green stuff. Some of the newer red stuff has a tendency to plug heater core passages (why I don't use DexCool in my GM's).

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post #9 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 03:52 PM
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DexCool isn't the same as Toyota Red or Pink. I know there have been a lot of problems with DexCool turning to gel if it's mixed with other coolants or maybe with too much air trapped in the system.

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1997 Corolla DX sedan, 7A-FE, 4-speed auto A245E
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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The car has been running Toyota red since 2006 with no issues. Not sure I would want to change it to green.
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 06:37 PM
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I don't think you should bother changing it. It shouldn't be losing coolant, so there shouldn't be a need to top it up frequently. If it is losing coolant then figure out why. There shouldn't be a need for her to buy a whole jug of coolant. If there is then there's some sort of big problem.

If it does lose a little coolant over time then distilled water can be used without affecting the coolant/water ratio too much. Even a lot of water can be used temporarily if it's not freezing outside. Or you could leave a small container of red coolant with her if she were to need it and she can safely store it.

1990 Corolla DX sedan, 4A-FE, 3-speed auto A131L
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1997 Corolla DX sedan, 7A-FE, 4-speed auto A245E
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think you should bother changing it. It shouldn't be losing coolant, so there shouldn't be a need to top it up frequently. If it is losing coolant then figure out why. There shouldn't be a need for her to buy a whole jug of coolant. If there is then there's some sort of big problem.

If it does lose a little coolant over time then distilled water can be used without affecting the coolant/water ratio too much. Even a lot of water can be used temporarily if it's not freezing outside. Or you could leave a small container of red coolant with her if she were to need it and she can safely store it.
It hasnít lost any but is due for a flush. Itís been about 3yrs since the last one.
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-13-2019, 08:08 PM
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All the common coolants use ethylene glycol. The only real difference between the colors is the corrosion inhibitors. Phosphates, silicates, etc. And some of those are not compatible with certain metals or seals used by various manufactures. Then there's the universally compatible coolants that say they can be mixed with anything.

From what I gather mixing stuff with DexCool caused problems. Now everyone is afraid to mix any different coolants together, but that fear may be overblow. I haven't heard any stories where mixing coolants other than DexCool caused major problems. (Of course now someone will probably post something to prove me wrong!)

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post #14 of 20 Old 06-14-2019, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by emdcksn View Post
It hasnít lost any but is due for a flush. Itís been about 3yrs since the last one.
Then you'll need to get a jug or 2 and flush it. As for the temperature fitting, most of those are pipe thread style, so as you tighten it, it kind of locks itself in place. Most sensors are brass, which has is a good sealing material. But, a little bit of Permatex ultra gray (or the Toyota red stuff you mentioned above) should seal it if you're worried.


I've never seen Dexcool turn into a jelly, but I have seen it develop crystals in cooling passages and heater cores.
Yes, some manufacturers want you to use their stuff (like Honda blue, or Toyota red), but in reality they all use the same base materials (kind of like oils), then manufacturers tailor them with different chemicals to meet their specs.

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-14-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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It hasn’t lost any but is due for a flush. It’s been about 3yrs since the last one.
Then you'll need to get a jug or 2 and flush it. As for the temperature fitting, most of those are pipe thread style, so as you tighten it, it kind of locks itself in place. Most sensors are brass, which has is a good sealing material. But, a little bit of Permatex ultra gray (or the Toyota red stuff you mentioned above) should seal it if you're worried.


I've never seen Dexcool turn into a jelly, but I have seen it develop crystals in cooling passages and heater cores.
Yes, some manufacturers want you to use their stuff (like Honda blue, or Toyota red), but in reality they all use the same base materials (kind of like oils), then manufacturers tailor them with different chemicals to meet their specs.
Yea, got all the stuff for the car. She just needs to give me time with the car now. I rebuilt the engine in 06 for her and trying to get her to properly maintain it can be a challenge at times.
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