2ZR-Swapped Yaris RS Turbo Build (Automatic) - Page 8 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Corolla 10th Gen/2nd Gen Matrix (2009-2013) A place to discuss all things 10th Gen Corolla and 2nd Gen Matrix.

 180Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #106 of 122 Old 05-14-2019, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Passenger side plumbing finally done

I had to order two different silicone couplers and modify the piece of piping that came with the kit. Although it looks tight, it's not touching anywhere. 90% of any flexing will be on the section of coupler that connects the portion of the charge pipe that's bolted to the engine and the intercooler coupler. There is also a coupler that joins the engine charge pipes that is quite flexible too despite being bolted to the A/C compressor. I rocked the engine back and forth (torque/rear engine mount is still not tightened down) and there is no movement or contact of couplers or piping on any chassis parts. Again, flexing is confined to the couplers that basically join the chassis and engine mounted charge piping parts.



My ATF cooler outlet hose is slightly touching the intercooler coupler, not even enough to deform the circumference of the hose. However, I have discovered that I can pick up a transmission return line from a 1992 - 1997 Jeep Wrangler or Grand Cherokee (or Dorman P/N# 624-384) that will work in this application. It's a very short, 3/8" elbow that should redirect the piping immediately after leaving the cooler so that it doesn't make contact with the intercooler coupler. A local scrapyard has a few of these vehicles and they told me I was welcome to go into the yard and help myself, if I can find one.



Final result. I did have to use one traditional hose clamp as opposed to a "T" clamp on the curved section of pipe. I did this because I needed a narrower clamp as I had to cut the pipe close to the curve. I did get a great bead roll on it and the clamp cranked down nicely on the right side of the bead roll. Would I want to put 35 psi through this piping? Probably not, but it will easily handle the 7 - 8 psi I'll be feeding it.



All of the piping is done with the exception of securing the 3" intake piping to the back of the valve cover. That will be done tomorrow hopefully. Then, the vacuum hosing and trans fan wiring will be completed. I'll be into the F/IC wiring by mid next week if things go as planned.


06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-14-2019 at 08:29 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #107 of 122 Old 05-15-2019, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Started the trans fan wiring

I only had about a half hour to work on the car tonight, but I got the wiring test routed and measured. I'm going to run two extra wires through the conduit; one for a future trans temp gauge and an oil temp gauge sensors. I've already talked about the trans temp hook up plans, but the oil gauge will be pan via the drain plug. I found a nifty 12M x 1.25 to 1.8" NPT fitting that comes with a copper crush washer. I just remove the oil plug, put the sensor in the fitting and screw it in like a normal drain pan bolt. Although the pan is probably not the best spot to monitor, this is without a doubt the simplest route. The oil from the turbo return line comes out close to where the sensor sits, so the reading may be close to indicative of one of the hotter parts of the lubrication system. I may not do these two gauges right away, but I've got all the fittings for both and will have the necessary wires in position when the time comes.

A little preliminary wiring. I'm using 14 gauge stranded automotive primary wire. It's very heavy, solid wire and my run will only be about 3' long and fan amp draw is around 8 amps, so well within safety margins. I remove the plastic terminal protectors, crimp, solder and heat shrink terminal ends and braid, solder and heat shrink all inline connections. I used good quality heat shrink; the kind that oozes out a nice gooey, glue-like substance that really seals well. All wires will run through loom and be completely taped. No leaks here, lol.





SuperchargedMR2 likes this.


06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-16-2019 at 04:46 AM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #108 of 122 Old 05-16-2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
A little wiring for the trans fan

I decided to go with a relay since I had one gathering dust on my shelf. Here's a drawing of my wiring schematic.



And a little more soldering/heat shrinking for the relay ground. I got this attached but no pic.



Relay mounted. Terminals will also get the soldering and heat shrink. I've got some really big heat shrink, so I'll likely cinch up the split loom that all comes together there.



06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-16-2019 at 10:28 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #109 of 122 Old 05-16-2019, 09:22 PM
Corolla Fan
 
Cuban Legend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Hot as hell, FL
Posts: 381
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 205 Post(s)
Thanks: 99
Thanked 20 Times in 19 Posts
Garage
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
this is coming along nicely, keep it up! You definitely are doing things right and doing your research, this build should be bullet proof once it's up and running!
Cuban Legend is online now  
post #110 of 122 Old 05-17-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuban Legend View Post
this is coming along nicely, keep it up! You definitely are doing things right and doing your research, this build should be bullet proof once it's up and running!
Thanks! I am making slow but steady progress. Haha, bulletproof, I wish. LOL! I just hope I remember everything, so if I have to fix something, I'll know where to look. I guess documenting it online will be helpful if I do have to go back and correct something.
SuperchargedMR2 likes this.


06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE
06YarisRS is online now  
post #111 of 122 Old 05-17-2019, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Trans Fan Wiring installation started

With a bit of available time tonight I got from the battery to the relay power supply run. It's fused with a 20 amp fuse. It will be tidied up and secured behind the battery, high up so the fuse is accessible.



It runs behind the battery and down behind the fuse box. A switched wire from the fuse box joins the leg here



Then, on to the relay. Terminals aren't seated yet, but will be after all wiring/loom is secured. You can see the next leg to the right in the pic. It's just draped over the engine for now.



The blue wire runs from the sensor back to the relay. The pink/white wire is the switched 12V and runs to the other sensor pin. Finally the black 14 GA wire goes from the relay to the fan +



I have a good route with lots of attach points; well away from any heat sources and would be chaffing areas.



Sensor wires ready to go into loom heading toward bottom of engine bay. Fan positive is done.



Loom traveling across above radiator. Not secured with zip ties yet.



Final leg of harness going down to sensor.





Here's a couple for fun. Picked up my valve cover breather. I peeked inside with my borescope to see how well built the filter is.





06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-18-2019 at 07:41 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #112 of 122 Old 05-18-2019, 12:41 AM
Diehard Rams Fan
 
SuperchargedMR2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 19,794
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Thanks: 722
Thanked 1,329 Times in 1,201 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 8 reviews
I picked up the same breather filter today. I spoke to Jesse at Turbokits and when I first installed my turbo I ran a hose from the valve cover to an OCC with a breather on it. I did a lot of research before I installed my OCC with my PCV valve. I installed it like everything explained to but the one thing that I didn't realize was that they were never for a turbo engine. After speaking with Jesse he said to either run the valve cover through a filter or like I did before through a separate OCC. Since there was nothing in the hose or OCC from before I decided to just go the breather route.

89 Supercharged White MR2 5MT/09 Corolla S TURBO CSM 5MT
17 Corolla iM CSM 6MT/ 17 RAV4 XLE MGM
95 Previa S/C White AT/06 Scion xB MT/10 Prius III Blizzard Pearl
SuperchargedMR2 is offline  
post #113 of 122 Old 05-18-2019, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperchargedMR2 View Post
I picked up the same breather filter today. I spoke to Jesse at Turbokits and when I first installed my turbo I ran a hose from the valve cover to an OCC with a breather on it. I did a lot of research before I installed my OCC with my PCV valve. I installed it like everything explained to but the one thing that I didn't realize was that they were never for a turbo engine. After speaking with Jesse he said to either run the valve cover through a filter or like I did before through a separate OCC. Since there was nothing in the hose or OCC from before I decided to just go the breather route.
Nice! Not sure about yours, but the blue rubber inlet to this K&N filter is a bit loose. I plan to run a good ring of RTV around the base where the port enters the bottom chrome filter plate. Question for you... What adater do you plan to use to connect it to the valve cover hose? If I recall correctly, the ID of that hose is 5/8" and OD around 7/8".

Yeah, I had to scour turbo forums about the appropriate catch can setup for a turbo - sealed/baffled catch can. Of course, I too consulted Jesse before proceeding. I'm sure he thought me cognitively challenged as I made him listen to me as I reviewed - over and over - my understanding of how the system works and how to set mine up. Poor guy. LOL. Gotta say that their customer support is second to none.
SuperchargedMR2 likes this.


06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-18-2019 at 06:30 AM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #114 of 122 Old 05-18-2019, 08:31 PM
Diehard Rams Fan
 
SuperchargedMR2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 19,794
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Thanks: 722
Thanked 1,329 Times in 1,201 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 8 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Nice! Not sure about yours, but the blue rubber inlet to this K&N filter is a bit loose. I plan to run a good ring of RTV around the base where the port enters the bottom chrome filter plate. Question for you... What adater do you plan to use to connect it to the valve cover hose? If I recall correctly, the ID of that hose is 5/8" and OD around 7/8".

Yeah, I had to scour turbo forums about the appropriate catch can setup for a turbo - sealed/baffled catch can. Of course, I too consulted Jesse before proceeding. I'm sure he thought me cognitively challenged as I made him listen to me as I reviewed - over and over - my understanding of how the system works and how to set mine up. Poor guy. LOL. Gotta say that their customer support is second to none.
I've got 2 options I'm playing around with. I have the step down hose that I was thinking that I could use the 3/8" hose barb and use some silicone on the end as I too found it a bit loose. The other option is that I could use the step down hose with my K&N breather filter. It has a larger diameter hole that the step down hose fits just inside. I could use a little silicone on that too. The other option is to use the OEM hose that is the same ID as my K&N filter and I could pick up a correct size barb connector. Not sure what I'm going to do.

You are right about the customer service at Turbokits as Jesse is amazing. For most everyone else that hasn't jumped at the quality of this turbo kit for our 2ZR-FE and dealt with Turbokits they could never understand the service and customer support that they provide. Before I bought my turbo kit I went through things with them for more than a year. When I was out that way they came in on a Saturday when they were closed and spent hours with me showing me around and showing me the kit and how they design and do the R&D. They are so passionate about what they do and the quality of their products.
jesselee69 and Cuban Legend like this.

89 Supercharged White MR2 5MT/09 Corolla S TURBO CSM 5MT
17 Corolla iM CSM 6MT/ 17 RAV4 XLE MGM
95 Previa S/C White AT/06 Scion xB MT/10 Prius III Blizzard Pearl
SuperchargedMR2 is offline  
post #115 of 122 Old 05-18-2019, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperchargedMR2 View Post
I've got 2 options I'm playing around with. I have the step down hose that I was thinking that I could use the 3/8" hose barb and use some silicone on the end as I too found it a bit loose. The other option is that I could use the step down hose with my K&N breather filter. It has a larger diameter hole that the step down hose fits just inside. I could use a little silicone on that too. The other option is to use the OEM hose that is the same ID as my K&N filter and I could pick up a correct size barb connector. Not sure what I'm going to do.

You are right about the customer service at Turbokits as Jesse is amazing. For most everyone else that hasn't jumped at the quality of this turbo kit for our 2ZR-FE and dealt with Turbokits they could never understand the service and customer support that they provide. Before I bought my turbo kit I went through things with them for more than a year. When I was out that way they came in on a Saturday when they were closed and spent hours with me showing me around and showing me the kit and how they design and do the R&D. They are so passionate about what they do and the quality of their products.
So true about TK.com. Top notch operation.

I think I have 2 possible solutions. I found a 5/8" x 3/8" barbed reducing coupling on eBay. Or, Home Depot sells Pex Sharkbite fittings and one is 3/8" by 1/2" barbed and 3/4" x 3/8" barbed. They are around $2.00 each. I'm probably going to pick up one of each tomorrow. I"ll see if either does the job. Maybe the hose is pliable enough to fit the larger one, or the smaller will seal off when tightened. I could always use some RTV before clamping to help seal it. Will report back.


06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-18-2019 at 09:09 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #116 of 122 Old 05-20-2019, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Valve Cover Breather Install and Engine Cover Test Fit

The breather I bought will accept either a 3/8" or 1/2" barb. The valve cover hose is about 5/8" ID. I was having difficulty finding a fitting that would reduce down until I remembered the Sharkbite Pex fittings. I picked up a 3/4" x 1/2" Pex reducer coupling and it couldn't have worked better. It's nice and tight, only requiring moderate pressue to insert into the breather and the breather hose. I just need to ziptie the hose to the block as it flops around a bit now.






Engine cover test fit. Very happy that nothing interferes with the cover. It fits as though there were no mods done to the car at all. In the interest of tidying up the engine bay, I'm going to hunt for some large split loom for those red amplifier wires. I think it will look a lot better.







06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-20-2019 at 07:12 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #117 of 122 Old 05-20-2019, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Frame Painting Touchups

I've been doing this all throughout the project. I figured while I had all the plastic shrouds off, I'd touch up the frame here and there. These had the occasional spots of surface rust, mainly where the plastic shrouds abrade the paint. I degreased, sanded, degreased and gave several coats of ceramic VHT paint, drying the layers with my heat gun. This stuff is really durable. Once it's cured in a few days, I'll blast it all with Fluid Film and spray the frame insides again with Rust Check red.





06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-20-2019 at 08:00 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #118 of 122 Old 05-22-2019, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Vacuum Lines

Started installing the vacuum lines. For my setup I only need to supply vacuum to two locations: the blowoff valve and the AEM F/IC. I already installed the wastegate actuator to wastegate boost hose. I am way short on hose since I'm going to install the F/IC inside the car behind the glovebox. I'll need about a 3 foot piece of vacuum hose to complete this job. All connections will be ziptied or possibly clamped.

First Tee tapped into the vacuum supply from the manifold. I may source some brass tees for the vacuum taps as these plastic ones seem a little flimsy.



BOV vacuum hose. The wires in the center of the pic will be moved and secured. They are just hanging there now.



Decided to touch up the wiper tray support. It was fairly rust free, but a few minutes time invested made for good results. It too will be saturated with Fluid Film before the wiper tray is reattached.



I ordered another -4AN oil supply feed line tonight. The one that came with the kit is about 40" long and would be very difficult to install in my car without coiling it up and risking it scraping on body or engine parts. The one I bought is 24" and should fit perfectly as I did measurements with the 40" hose and marked it to the appropriate length with electrical tape.



06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 05-22-2019 at 09:58 PM.
06YarisRS is online now  
post #119 of 122 Old Yesterday, 02:01 AM
Diehard Rams Fan
 
SuperchargedMR2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 19,794
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1966 Post(s)
Thanks: 722
Thanked 1,329 Times in 1,201 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 8 reviews
You're not running a boost gauge inside the car? I used an additional "T" fitting and ran a line for my gauge. I installed an A/F, oil pressure and boost gauge with my turbo install. I didn't want to trust the idiot light for oil pressure and they other 2 seemed like a no brainer. The plastic vacuum t's are more than strong enough for what they do.

89 Supercharged White MR2 5MT/09 Corolla S TURBO CSM 5MT
17 Corolla iM CSM 6MT/ 17 RAV4 XLE MGM
95 Previa S/C White AT/06 Scion xB MT/10 Prius III Blizzard Pearl
SuperchargedMR2 is offline  
post #120 of 122 Old Yesterday, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Beaver Harbour, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 121
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 64 Post(s)
Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperchargedMR2 View Post
You're not running a boost gauge inside the car? I used an additional "T" fitting and ran a line for my gauge. I installed an A/F, oil pressure and boost gauge with my turbo install. I didn't want to trust the idiot light for oil pressure and they other 2 seemed like a no brainer. The plastic vacuum t's are more than strong enough for what they do.
My AFR and boost are monitored and displayed by Torque on my Android head unit. Unfortunately, Torque won't monitor oil temp or oil pressure on this car, so the gauges I'll be running are oil pan temp and trans temp. I spoke to turbokits and they recommended oil temp over oil pressure, and of course, AFR and boost. Good to know about the tees. BTW, do you know what the 2 large and 1 small reducers for vacuum lines in the pic below are used for?

As an aside, I tested the trans cooler fan yesterday by just bridging pins 87 and 30 on the relay. That little puller fan packs a punch and isn't at all loud. It's really going to help cool the engine bay, I think , along with cooling the fluid. It's quite impressive. Not sure about the longevity, but it sure works well now.





06 Yaris RS 2ZR-FE Swapped, Megan Axleback, TRD sway bar, PG spacers,
Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, speakers, tweeters, subwoofer
08 Yaris LE

Last edited by 06YarisRS; Yesterday at 05:03 AM.
06YarisRS is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla and Matrix Forum > Corolla 10th Gen/2nd Gen Matrix (2009-2013)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome