Cracked Inner CV Boot: Update - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Corolla 10th Gen/2nd Gen Matrix (2009-2013) A place to discuss all things 10th Gen Corolla and 2nd Gen Matrix.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Cracked Inner CV Boot: Update

I took another look and am updating original post.


Have a 2010 Corolla, 33k miles in 9 years. Found a crack on the inner CV boot, passenger side. Grease isn't spraying everywhere but it is leaking. The outer boot has many surface cracks. I haven't noticed symptoms, like clicking/clunking/vibration during acceleration or turns. Pics included.


The passenger side half-axle was replaced after an accident 8.5 years ago. Collision center said it was OEM, but the invoice says "RECOND." Boots look different from driver side. Might be aftermarket or remanufactured.

After doing some reading, I believe my options are:
-a split boot (quick but temporary solution)
-reboot kit (more work but better durability than split boot)
-replace half-axle (less messy than reboot, aftermarket or remanufactured not too expensive)
-replace half-axle but only when symptoms appear


Some questions I have are:
-How likely can the inner CV joint suddenly fail without symptoms? Someone replied that symptoms should appear first.
-How much ATF comes out if I pull the inner spindle out of the transmission? Someone replied that ATF shouldn't come out, but I'm not too sure.
-During a reboot, can the inner spindle/housing be left in the transmission, after cutting away the old boot, to prevent loss of ATF?


Currently thinking to wait until CV has symptoms, then replace. I drive low miles per year, so it could take a long time. Aftermarket half-axle costs $51 + $9 s/h on Rock Auto. OEM RH inner boot kit is about $30 either local or after shipping. Toyota doesn't make one for RH outer boot, so an aftermarket kit would be about $20. Might as well buy half-axle vs replacing 2 boots. Some info that could affect my decision is whether this was actually brand new OEM half-axle (I doubt it), then I would reboot to to keep it as long as possible.


I might try putting some RTV adhesive on the outer boot, and duct tape on the inner boot, just to see what happens.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190708_163652288.jpg (285.8 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190708_163640090.jpg (290.0 KB, 8 views)

Last edited by 1stb; 07-08-2019 at 07:08 PM.
1stb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 05:09 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Boston area
Posts: 644
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Thanks: 16
Thanked 78 Times in 75 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Basically, I'd say take a deep breath and relax.

You've caught a problem before it has become a problem. The stain around the boot is most likely dust or rust stains. As long as the crack does not penetrate all the way through, you're ok. Flex Seal after a thorough cleaning will probably be a long-lived stopgap.

The axles are designed to be replaced without loss of transmission fluid. The transmission seals for the output shafts are inboard of the axle and the axle mount itself.

Take a look at the following video from about 6:25 or so. When the axle pops free at ~7:20, you'll see there's absolutely no outflow of transmission fluid:

If the CV boot fails, under most circumstances, you have many miles before the joint even gets noisy, and it can be noisy for a very long time before it breaks.

Split (not slip) boots have been available since the days when axle boots first were put on cars. However, the most commonly available ones are from Dorman, a supplier with a very spotty record. It's possible that the negative comments about split boots are more directed at the terrible quality of many Dorman products than at the design of the boot itself.

That said, when the time comes, it's best to pull the axle and replace the boot with a non-split boot. And, as you say, at that point, it's probably best to simply replace the axle, since they are relatively inexpensive.

01 Avalon XL
03 Avalon XL
OleAvalon is online now  
post #3 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Oh yeah, that vid is one that I saw when researching the problem. I wasn't sure if barely any fluid came out, or if the shop had drained the ATF first. I also wasn't sure if disconnecting the tie rod was necessary. I saw a vid for a 9th gen Corolla, and ATF did come out, but they didn't have to disconnect the tie rod. The nut and pin on my tie rod is extremely rusty.

Made mistake on the split/slip boot typo.


Now that I had a day to think about it, I might do an OEM reboot kit. If the grease hasn't leaked, I guess the inside hasn't been contaminated. Then this would be a good situation to do a reboot and keep the OEM axle.

Last edited by 1stb; 07-08-2019 at 03:41 PM.
1stb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Yeah I was wondering why the inner boot was cracked at low miles. One possibility is that this is not the original half-axle. At 1k miles, I got in a hit-and-run, other car collided just perfectly on the front passenger wheel and wheel well. At the time, the collision center told me they used all OEM parts. I read the invoice again just now and it says the axle was "RECOND," which I think means remanufactured. Maybe the boots aren't OEM quality or they got damaged during installation.

Last edited by 1stb; 07-08-2019 at 02:01 PM.
1stb is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 06:05 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: irvine
Posts: 582
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 177 Post(s)
Thanks: 82
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stb View Post
Yeah I was wondering why the inner boot was cracked at low miles. One possibility is that this is not the original half-axle. At 1k miles, I got in a hit-and-run, other car collided just perfectly on the front passenger wheel and wheel well. At the time, the collision center told me they used all OEM parts. I read the invoice again just now and it says the axle was "RECOND," which I think means remanufactured. Maybe the boots aren't OEM quality or they got damaged during installation.
This explains very well what happen to the axle. If its service in a toyota dealer recond means they put toyota parts together according to toyota spec. If its from a non toyota dealer you will have to interpret what they mean by recond. It will probably vary from who you talk to at the time. The 2010 you found is a gem. Its the most trouble free car I have ever owned. The only regret I had was I should have purchased 2 back in 2010.

The option you listed are very good and can't wait to see what you do.
corolapete is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by corolapete View Post
.

I took another look and the crack is worse than I first thought. I included a photo on original post. And there are lots of surface cracks on the outer boot. I think this half-axle was either aftermarket or remanufactured, with lesser quality boots. I'll likely wait and then replace the half-axle when symptoms appear. Not much price difference from aftermarket vs replacing both boots, and less mess.
1stb is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 07-08-2019, 09:08 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: irvine
Posts: 582
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 177 Post(s)
Thanks: 82
Thanked 23 Times in 23 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stb View Post
I took another look and the crack is worse than I first thought. I included a photo on original post. And there are lots of surface cracks on the outer boot. I think this half-axle was either aftermarket or remanufactured, with lesser quality boots. I'll likely wait and then replace the half-axle when symptoms appear. Not much price difference from aftermarket vs replacing both boots, and less mess.
Someone here use some tape or ducttape. It might even be the flex seal. With update he said it worked for a long tome. I believe he didnt want to replace is axle because it was the original.
corolapete is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 07-11-2019, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
(Thread Starter)
So I put RTV Ultra Black (maximum oil resistance) on both boots. $4 tube. The outer boot with the thin cracks in each groove, it went on easy, hopefully it will give the boot some support and slow down the cracking. The inner boot was harder because the crack kept opening up whenever I rotated the wheel to get to the other side of the boot. I filled it in as much as possible and it looks really messy. I also tried to use a little as possible and used the tip of a toothbrush to smooth it out. Didn't work so well on the inner boot.



I'll wait 24 hours for it to cure, look for gaps and put a 2nd layer over it. I tried prepping by cleaning up the area with degreaser and rubbing alcohol, but didn't do a perfect job. Really disorienting to do it upside down.


day 2: I checked the result, the outer boot looked OK, I put a 2nd layer on it. Inner boot the widest part of the crack wasn't filled in well. Hopefully the 2nd layer is all I need. But will have to check again tomorrow, maybe but a final 3rd layer.


day 3: The 2nd layer covered up the gap. I put on a 3rd layer today. It should be on pretty thick, going up to the level of the ridge for the clamp. I'll check it at each 6th month maintenance interval. Keep in mind that I only drive about 3.5k miles per year on average, so if the RTV gasket is still intact, might be because of my low mileage.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190711_143035920.jpg (345.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20190711_143025089.jpg (307.0 KB, 9 views)

Last edited by 1stb; 07-13-2019 at 03:13 PM.
1stb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla and Matrix Forum > Corolla 10th Gen/2nd Gen Matrix (2009-2013)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome