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post #1 of 9 Old 05-12-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Windows not working

I have a 2013 v6 limited , the main switch on the drivers side does not work on any window or door lock. I checked the fuses under the steering column and replaced the 4 - 20 amp fuses with brand new ones, still doesn't work. I pulled off the door skin to see if I could see any broken wires in the door or the rubber boot leading from the door to inside the car. Everything appears to be fine. I even disconnected the battery to try and reset everything. Now the other doors are not working as well now. It was just the main switch, now its every door. I have the window down about a inch on the drivers side and need to find a way to fix this or roll it up some how, because the next couple o8f days are going to rain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by M .Ricketts; 05-12-2019 at 04:22 PM.
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-13-2019, 06:01 PM
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Did you check to see if you are getting 12v power at the driver door switches.
Also you may need to reinitialize the controls.
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...g-battery.html

Another poster had the same issue, but it was due to nicked wires.
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...r-windows.html

As a side note, you could run jumper wires from 12v source to the window motor switches to close the windows for the time being.

2013 Venza V6 AWD Touring+JBL system, blizzard pearl w/ black interior

Last edited by ilovemytoyota88; 05-13-2019 at 06:09 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-13-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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I saw those threads before I had posted. First link sounds a lot like mine with no resolution. I tried everything on there with no success. It must be getting some power to it because the drivers door window switch is the only one that lights up out of all switches. I can't reinitialize it because nothing on the main switch works including the door locks. And I couldn't find any schematics that show what each pin out in that harness going to the main switch should be in order to test if it is getting power in those terminals, and the last thing i want to do is put power to the wrong spot and blow something else and make things worse for myself. I checked for cracked or nicked wires and saw nothing. If anyone has the schematics for the pinouts on the switch, please let me know. I would like to close this window. Currently it's taped up.

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post #4 of 9 Old 05-13-2019, 08:03 PM
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Sorry to get you to recheck the wires in the rubber .... a sign that only a led light and no operation is a good sign of a broken wire... go further to the door post. These power window/ door lock switches are not powering the devices directly... they send signals to the computer to operate the devices....so a broken wire will cause this type odd issue.

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post #5 of 9 Old 05-13-2019, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I just went back out to the car and started it. Looked at the other 3 window switches on their respective doors and now they are lit back up again and working. The drivers window is still the only one on the main switch that lights up, and now works again, the other 3 windows on the switch still do not work.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 07:26 AM
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Theres some procedures here. It appears you need techstream to troubleshoot. http://www.tovenza.com/power_window_...312_-1865.html check other pages too.

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post #7 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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I finally figured this out. I thought it was the main switch, so I picked one up at the scrapyard only to get the same results. Determined as all hell. I pulled off the door skin for the 6th time, disconnected the 3 separate plugs for this harness under the driver side kick panel and pulled the harness out of the door. Brought it in the house and took off all the loom and electrical tape and went through these wires. There are 4 or 5 wires that run from the main switch to the window regulator. Those were fine, 3 other wires run elsewhere. One of which is a white with a stripe that runs to a fuseable link in the middle of the door. That was not it. 2 other wires run from the main switch into the car. Those wires are a light grey wire and a blue wire. Which really makes this simple to track because it goes from one pin out to the other with nothing running into it. The grey wire inside the door had a weird discolouration in one spot, as I touched it I could feel that there was no wire underneath. It was corroded and broke under the wire loom. So I cut and spliced it back together with solder and heat heat shrink, and re loomed the entire harness properly. Brought the harness back out to the car and plugged everything in outside of the door and into the car. Everything works perfectly now. So I reinstalled the harness back in the door and put Humpty Dumpty back together again.

So if anyone has there main switch go south on them and only one led light lights up on the main switch (with the light being for the drivers window) everything else doesn't work or light up including the door locks. It's that grey wire that runs from the main switch to the harness end at the kick panel in the car. Very easy to do in the car, but I wast just being extra by pulling it all out and doing it inside the house at my kitchen table.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 11:18 AM
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So exact same wire as from the other thread I linked before. Hmmm...interesting. I will keep that in mind for future reference.

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Word to the wise. Go to the Dollar Store and buy some x3 reading glasses. I was only able to see the area once it was magnified 300%. Thanks ilovemytoyota88 for your help. It's always great to get another perspective on any situation.
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