I'm replacing rod bearing. Should I replace the engine b, thrust washers? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Avalon 1st Generation (1995-1999) Specific discussion of the first generation Toyota Avalon

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post #1 of 5 Old 01-18-2019, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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I'm replacing rod bearing. Should I replace the engine b, thrust washers?

Hi everyone hopefully I'm posting in the right place sorry Im a noob.
1mz-fe engine. I bought a rering and gasket it. I've tried to watch videos and do other research but can't find much.

And the engine is in

Should I replace all that I have that can be?
If the rod bearing are bad will everything else associated with those bearing be bad too?

I don't know that much I'm just watching a lot of YouTube and reading.

Is any of that extra tricky to do ?

Any info any suggestions tips anything to make it easier is all much appreciated.
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post #2 of 5 Old 01-18-2019, 04:16 PM
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If you don't know what you are doing and replacing, I'd recommend taking it to a shop because there are clearances you need to check and if you don't check them there is potential for catastrophic engine damage among other minor but important things. A engine swap is just what it is, a swap. A engine rebuild is more than just swapping parts.

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post #3 of 5 Old 01-18-2019, 05:15 PM
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Vangm25 mentions clearances... is your engine knocking, bottom-end knocking, as in bad rod bearings?

In the bad old days, when I rebuilt 3 engines (1972 Dodge 225 slant 6, 1979 Honda Civic, and 1970 British Cosworth-modded Ford 4), rod bearing clearances were pretty sloppy. They were easy to check with Plastigage. The flow in the oil galleries was easy to check with a pump type oil can.

Have you checked out professionally re-built engines for your car? This thread: https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...ort-block.html has a good, succinct discussion of sources and some info on costs.

Or used engines? I sort of exaggerated when I said I rebuilt my slant 6 - I replaced it with a very low mileage used engine, but I tore that used engine down and checked everything, including all bearings, then re-ringed it, complete with re-honing of the cylinder walls. Thing is, the '72 had a whole lot less stuff hung on it - no sensors to speak of, no ECU or related electronic stuff, push rods instead of OHC, and basically just a distributor, oil pump, and alternator.

It's not impossible to rebuild, in fact some elements are fun, but you sound as though this is your first venture into this sort of thing.

What manual are you using? I had the Dodge factory manual and a very good aftermarket Honda manual, plus access to real manuals for the latter at our public library. I didn't have anything for the Cosworth.

The Dodge went another 75k and 6 years before we sold it. The Honda went maybe another 50k before rust killed the car. The Cosworth - remember, no manual - went about 75 miles in 2 SCCA races before two rods let go. Couldn't get new rod bolts for that, they were no longer made, and just stayed with the originals and prayed. Clearly, the prayers were not answered.

The slant 6 and Cosworth had to come out. An engine stand is a blessing in this case and Harbor Freight is your friend ($60 or so). The Honda stayed in the car but made for a lot less fun.
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post #4 of 5 Old 01-18-2019, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vangm25 View Post
if you don't know what you are doing and replacing, i'd recommend taking it to a shop because there are clearances you need to check and if you don't check them there is potential for catastrophic engine damage among other minor but important things. A engine swap is just what it is, a swap. A engine rebuild is more than just swapping parts.
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post #5 of 5 Old 01-19-2019, 03:29 PM
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If rod bearings are worn, the entire engine has serious wear and should be discarded and replaced with an unworn used engine.

Serious wear only occurs to abusively driven Toyota engines or ones that did not receive timely preventive maintenance.
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