Stripped threads on engine mounting bracket - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Avalon 1st Generation (1995-1999) Specific discussion of the first generation Toyota Avalon

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post #1 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Stripped threads on engine mounting bracket

I have a 3.0L 1998 Toyota Avalon. I believe it is a 1MZ-FE. I was tightening down one of the two RH (right hand?) Engine Mounting bracket nuts (not the two bolts but the nuts which go onto the bolts which are fastened to the engine). I had forgoten to put on the No.2 Generator Bracket. I hand tightened both nuts and both bolts till finger tight then began to torque down the nuts (48 ft lbs).
I am not sure if this was correct torque. The book gave specs for Rear engine mount insulator nuts and 48 ft lbs didnt seem like a lot of torque. Didn't even reach 48ft lbs when I felt the dreaded "it's kind of tight but not getting any more difficult to turn" feeling you get when you messed somthing up. Began to back it off but it was to late. The threads were done. Had to go by a set of E-torque bits to get the bolt out.
So my questions are:
1. Should I replace the bolt (would rather replace it if I don't have to wait to long for a bolt).
1.a. Where would I buy this bolt? I have searched online for a while already with no luck. Does it have a name I can search by. Links would be super if anyone knows where to get it.

Or

2. Just use it as is. The threads on the engine side are good to go and I don't think that the nut will come off if I tighten it back on. Had to use my vice to take the fracking thing off.
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 09:27 AM
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The usual quick fix for this kind of thing is a metric threaded rod hack-sawed to the right length, but you have to determine the diameter and the thread pitch. You just use a washer and a nut (self-locking or with loc-tite) at the engine mount bracket. You also loc-tite the portion that goes into the block.

The numbers in the boxed callout for the bolt represent N-m (kgf-cm, ft-lb), so the spec is 21 ft-lb.

Try looking up the name of the bracket (RH engine mounting bracket) and delve into offerings from Toyota dealers. There is usually a series of diagrams for a given part and the diagrams usually give the name and/or p/n of special bolts.
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-12-2019, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like Toyota had it and also Amazon. $5 on Amazon and $10 at the dealership. But I got the bolt next morning from the dealership. Toyota 90126-A0019 - Stud Hexalobular https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H138A78..._FockDbWFBB7WK from Amazon. And it is called a stud hexalobular 90126-08012. Forgot to ask the torque spec. If anyone knows that would be helpful.
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-12-2019, 02:43 AM
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Here is the correct torque (21 ft-lbs as mentioned by OleAvalon) on the official diagram:




..you can pump your VIN into japan-parts.eu to look at the official parts diagrams, find the stud P/N, and order that from a dealer.

BTW, "Rear Engine Mount Insulator" is Toyota parlance for rear engine mount (to subframe).

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post #5 of 6 Old 07-12-2019, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
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I saw the callout that was mentioned but that is for the nuts (which goes on the other end of the stud) and the bolts which fasten the mounting bracket. The stud doesn't have a callout and is supposed to be already mounted to the engine in this diagram. I guess the min torque for the stud would be atleast the same as the nut which will be torqued down on it. I just dont want to be assuming things though. Thank you for suggesting that website for diagrams. Ill check it out and make sure to bookmark it. Everyone has been super helpful on this forum.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-12-2019, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbriney View Post
I saw the callout that was mentioned but that is for the nuts (which goes on the other end of the stud) and the bolts which fasten the mounting bracket. The stud doesn't have a callout and is supposed to be already mounted to the engine in this diagram. I guess the min torque for the stud would be atleast the same as the nut which will be torqued down on it. I just dont want to be assuming things though. Thank you for suggesting that website for diagrams. Ill check it out and make sure to bookmark it. Everyone has been super helpful on this forum.
Usually, the torque on the stud is tiny, like on the order of a few in-lbs. You thread it in until it stops, then snug it down a tiny bit. This is how 99% of studs work; the nut provides the clamping force and that prevents the stud from pulling out.

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01 ES300 147k NEEDS TRANS WORK
01 Insight 137k BROKEN CAMSHAFT
02 Insight 178k DC-DC BELLY-UP

08 STS-V 67k 570 RWHP!
01 Viggen 112k 400 FWHP
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