Oil Consumption 1 quart every 3000 miles - 2001 Toyota Echo - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-29-2017, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Question Oil Consumption 1 quart every 3000 miles - 2001 Toyota Echo

Hey I just wanted to pick anyone's brain regarding oil consumption on the 1nz-fe engine (echo, xa,xb,etc). I just want to hear people's opinions and thoughts regarding this, and how applicable it would be to our Echo. I do understand, barring any leaks, etc, oil consumption is normal, but every car and car make is different, etc., etc.

I have a 2001 Toyota Echo (Auto ) with 218,000 miles. Car isn't as quick as it used to be when she was at 160,000 miles, but she keeps up with traffic, passes cars on hills, and averages about 34-36MPG going 65-75MPH. I used to do the oil changes every 4000 (over 3,000 but under 5,000) miles with 5w-30 conventional oil. Car runs smooth and is reliable (I do have a fuel delivery issue on cold start/under 1/2 tank), which I'm aware of/living with, and will fix on of these days/years--pretty sure it's the fuel pump/pressure regulator, but that's another day).

Anyhow, when I change the oil, I always put enough oil right to the full of the hash mark on the cheap plastic yellow toyota dipstick. I always put oil in the oil filter prior to installing it At 3,000 miles, the dipstick now shows it around halfway between middle and bottom of hashmark--so its under halfway, but more than way at the bottom start of the hash,if that makes any sense. I had about 3/4 of a quart in the trunk so I dumped it in, and it shows little more than 1/2 way. So roughly 1qt (maybe 1.2qt) per 3,000 miles of consumption.

I do tend to drive it a little hard, it's basically a beater car now, but I was hoping to see if the car will last until 300k, which would be awesome.

So what I'm wondering is if I shouldn't worry about the oil consumption, and just keep tabs on the oil level? The actual cause could be anything from leaks (which I'm pretty sure I don't have), to worn rings, valve guides and seals. And, while I would be confident in tacking such an endevour, realistically I don't want to and just let the beater car, beat. So, should I worry? Appreciate any thoughts and opinions. Thank you.
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-29-2017, 02:57 PM
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Did you buy it used or new? 1NZ-FE is not known to be an oil burner. There are Youtube videos of some hitting 300K miles or more.

I'm not sure if your oil burning issue would be considered a problem. For now, just keeps tabs on it and see if it does not get worse.
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-29-2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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It was bought used in 2004-2005 with 60-90K miles.It's not really my car, but the significant other's. I have been the one who has kept it running though, lol (though it did have stints of sitting for 6 months+ a couple times) I've learned a bit on this car--perfect car to learn repairs on.Far as I know we're the 2nd owner. I need to clean the engine compartment again, she's getting dirty.

Also I'm wondering--(I have a set of oil change reminder stickers I use on our cars to help keep track)--OK I'll just add some oil every 3,000 miles..so that oil mixture is gonna be around 2.7qts old oil (3000 miles old) with 1.7qts (or less) new oil (0 miles) (going off 3.7 qt capacity spec..not real world).very-roughly a 1/3.when should I do a drain and refill?--at an additional 1000 miles (4000)? I guess I would write out something like (from 215,000mi) " 218,000add / 219,000chg " or something.

Last edited by l33ch; 08-29-2017 at 06:11 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-30-2017, 08:35 AM
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I see. Your drain and refill question, keep tabs on mileage as you have been doing, and drain and refill at 1000 miles as you mentioned. It would not hurt.
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-08-2017, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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cool. Just hit 218700mi, and changed out the oil and filer. Oil was a dark brown (not black), but nothing out of the ordinary. Gave her 3.7qts along with a new oil filter (I skimmed on the air filter,I bought one, but the old one was still clean). And, adding/changing her again at 221700/222700----until then!
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-08-2017, 05:43 PM
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bad pcv valve? maybe?
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-08-2017, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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No I don't think so, I changed it back around 200K or so, but I should change it around next oil change. Ironically enough, I was also doing an oil/filter change (I try to do all the cars that need an oil change around same time, if mileages approx. line up--easier for me and keeps me sane..lol) on the Suburban (sorry not Toyota), and I tried to make a mental note to grab a PCV valve for it, but of course I forgot--it needs to pass smog for the reg. renewal--I'll try to grab it tmw--that one I'm sure it could use it...maybe I'll get one for the Echo too,they're cheap enough.

Honestly, on the echo, it didn't look too bad, didn't smell too bad. When I had the valve cover off, it looked very clean, just the normal stained varnish that 200k+ does. Sometimes I'll treat her to some Lucas Injector Cleaner, or since, I put about 1/2 can of Seafoam in the Suburban and did a 30 Mile drive/oil change earlier today, I put the remaining half in the gas of the echo,ill give her little treats now and then. The oil wasn't black, it wasn't clear, but a dark brown--Suburban was too--so I think it was just at that time to change it. I usually like to give her Chevron Supreme 5w30 conventional motor oil--sometimes I'll add a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam, didn't this time, and drive her into the ground. Hopefully she'll make to 300k.
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-09-2017, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l33ch View Post
No I don't think so, I changed it back around 200K or so, but I should change it around next oil change. Ironically enough, I was also doing an oil/filter change (I try to do all the cars that need an oil change around same time, if mileages approx. line up--easier for me and keeps me sane..lol) on the Suburban (sorry not Toyota), and I tried to make a mental note to grab a PCV valve for it, but of course I forgot--it needs to pass smog for the reg. renewal--I'll try to grab it tmw--that one I'm sure it could use it...maybe I'll get one for the Echo too,they're cheap enough.

Honestly, on the echo, it didn't look too bad, didn't smell too bad. When I had the valve cover off, it looked very clean, just the normal stained varnish that 200k+ does. Sometimes I'll treat her to some Lucas Injector Cleaner, or since, I put about 1/2 can of Seafoam in the Suburban and did a 30 Mile drive/oil change earlier today, I put the remaining half in the gas of the echo,ill give her little treats now and then. The oil wasn't black, it wasn't clear, but a dark brown--Suburban was too--so I think it was just at that time to change it. I usually like to give her Chevron Supreme 5w30 conventional motor oil--sometimes I'll add a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam, didn't this time, and drive her into the ground. Hopefully she'll make to 300k.

You should not have too much trouble getting her to 300K. Good luck
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-11-2017, 01:03 AM
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Change oil and filter every 3000 miles and it won't be an issue.
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-11-2017, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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True. For me would equate to every 9 Weeks or so--adding the oil gave me 2 more weeks before I had to change it out anyway--but how true is the "anywhere on the hashed area on the dipstick is fine/safe", really? Just in the context of oil protection. I always thought having the oil 3/4 to full is overall better, and I'm just a little afraid of running it down toward the lower 1/2 of the dipstick each 3,000 miles--Just in the sense of trying to give the engine the best scenario possible for engine quality and quantity--if you can honestly convince me (and I don't mean that in a smartass way)--I know tone doesn't show up well sometimes online, but really if you can honestly and factually assure me that even if the oil goes to lower portion of hashed area, that makes no difference to engine protection and wear and tear (in context that those last few hundreds to 500-1,000 miles toward 3,000 miles as the engine is consuming that oil--bringing the level down , damage, etc. etc. vs having it toward the full mark, even if only for an additional 1k miles--I will seriously consider what you suggest and just do it at 3k.
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-11-2017, 11:06 PM
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Ok, I made an assumption that you weren't using the car very often because of the comment about it sitting for 6 months. A 3 month, 4000 mile change interval is perfectly acceptable according to Toyota's recommendations, from what I can tell. So is allowing to oil level to drop as low as the bottom of the hash marks. If you check your owners manual that is what is says. I don't believe that Toyota, or any other OEM for that matter would intentionally set a minimum safe oil level that is less than the what is safe. My experience (mechanic for over 30 years) is that OEM's always try to error on the side of caution when it comes to maintenance so they can avoid warranty claims and lawsuits. That said, it's not going to hurt if you want to keep it topped up, you aren't talking a lot of money for a half quart of oil. If I were going to top it up, I'd probably do it at around the 2000 mile mark and make use of the extra oil a little longer.
I found this article as well which you may find interesting regarding maximum allowable oil consumption. http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1nz/ You are well below what it says.
My car has around 200k miles and drops to the half way point at 3000 miles as well, but for me, that is a once a year oil change.
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post #12 of 14 Old 09-12-2017, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Okay. That sounds reasonable. What I'll do is check it at 2,000 miles. Maybe check it every other fill up/1000 miles so I gauge the consumption. Thank you.


* One time at band camp I had a 1999 Camry 4cyl. I had checked the oil that last weekend, and I got gas and went down the freeway. About 15-20 miles later car started to get this metal rumbling noise which turned into a knock and come to find out I had no oil in the car. $5k later with a new engine, problem solved. This was long time ago around 2005--but man that was an expensive lesson. The worst part of is was getting chewed out by the mechanic and lectured about how oil is the blood of the engine, etc..and that despite my best attempts to tell him that I had checked the oil within last 5 days or so went over deaf ears--that was frustrating. But yea, don't want to go through that again--I still don't know what happened to cause that, but I don't have other shops do my oil anymore (unless I'm traveling cross country or something--maybe).

** One time I was watching some kid put oil in the car, from start to end. He did fine, except at the very end when he started to pull the car out and I saw him never put the oil filler cap back on the engine. I was mad. Never again. $160 sears craftsman socket set purchased later, best purchase ever--that thing has paid for itself 1000 fold--lol.
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post #13 of 14 Old 09-12-2017, 06:29 PM
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My general practice is check oil at every fill minimum and more often if I suspect a problem.
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-18-2017, 08:18 AM
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Fresh oil versus blow by diluted old oil will make your engine last longer. Fill it to the top line or slightly above every change(maybe 4 quarts, a good round number). Change it when it gets to the bottom line, not adding any oil between changes. The distance traveled is your oil change interval.

300 k easy, maybe even 400 k using the above recommendation. I've seen a Nissan 280 Z federal emissions, pass a California emissions test burning a quart every 500 miles. Advised the customer to sell the car since it was never Cal emissions (no cat federal 1975, cal was cat). Still passed.

As the rings wear blow by dilutes the oil faster. Solution=get rid of the old oil. Pop had a Pontiac that burned 5 quarts in 180 miles right after WW2 when all cars were tired (none made for 4 years). He put a reservoir with a drip feed to the oil pan to keep the engine from locking up.

All previous advice is good advice, my advice is just a different pathway to your goal and even beyond.

A B17 (WW2 bomber) had 35 gallon oil tanks per engine. Pop once had a cylinder head shot off, and the engine still ran all the way home trailing a bunch of gallons of oil smoke.

regards
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