09 Yaris hatch EVAP codes - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 04-30-2019, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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09 Yaris hatch EVAP codes

so the car sega never ends. Anyway I got a different car. A Toyota. Yay, back in the family. Anyway, engine light comes on after 2 days of having it. Looks like the evap. But of course it's setting off 5 codes. It looks like there might be water in the canister. But I can't confirm that. Obviously something is amiss or there's a leak. The car runs and drives fine. My question. Should I even bother? It's a very expensive part. I see it when I look under the car. Something I could possibly do granted I don't know what I'm doing. But besides of running the risk of not being able to fill up my car properly (evap issues), can I just let it be? It doesn't effect drivibility, at least not directly. I know most people do. It seems like it's a big problem with other Toyota's.

codes are P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419.


Looking at the codes closely it seems like it could be a pump/valve circuit issue but I can't confirm that. Idk. I cleared the codes. I know that doesn't solve anything but eh! Car runs and drives good. Starts fine, accelerates fine. Is this one of those that progress and get worse? or just it pollutes lol.


Sorry if this is a repost, any suggestions or help or info helps!!!!!

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post #2 of 7 Old 04-30-2019, 09:27 AM
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Found this thread with the exact same codes, just for a Corolla. Give you somewhere to start

https://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16619
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-02-2019, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TwistedKestrel View Post
Found this thread with the exact same codes, just for a Corolla. Give you somewhere to start

https://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16619

Thanks!

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post #4 of 7 Old 05-03-2019, 08:40 AM
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Yeah if the other post didn't help hopefully it does but u have a leak somewhere always start small and see if u can find it might be just one of the hookups came loose or has a hole,
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-03-2019, 09:14 AM
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Will not affect performance of economy. Could be a gas cap, the purge valve, the canister assembly, or just a cracked vacuum hose somewhere in the purge circuit, or a bunch of other crap. Do you hear a slight sucking sound when you remove the gas cap for a refill? (indicates system has integrity which you want)

I started out with a cap, figuring it would be good for a spare, not fixed, tried to seal up the deteriorated hoses on the original canister, no luck, $%^&*( POS. The I went to pick&pull for parts for another Echo I am reviving ($375 purchase) and when pulling interior carpets, seats and other stuff, I noticed a brand new purge valve and canister on the car with the beautiful interior, so I grabbed them and some hoses and that got the light to stay off. Still waiting for the damn thing to come back on.

Bottom line if you have to fix it for emissions testing then you have no choice, otherwise it's an annoyance with no more consequence than the fumes that get in the air when you refill. My old canister had charcoal rattling around in it so I knew that was no good.

A smoke machine would help but they cost a fortune and shops now want to charge for the guy sitting there watching for smoke, which any moron can do. Like the $140 they wanted to hook my car up to an AC machine. All I needed was an evacuation, charged and working fine without paying them for the machine which does it all. Hell I used to be able to do that with a damn Marlboro.
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-06-2019, 03:43 PM
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My CEL came on the other day and I'm like "crap" thought I had killed that dam gremlin (LOL AMC made one). I looked in the engine compartment and the hose from the purge valve back to the canister had pulled off the nipple. Went to the local dealership and they sold me some universal line. I wanted that so I could make it a LOT longer and put a loop in it like they did with the fuel line from the factory. You see I do a fair amount of bump starting the car and that stresses the rear engine mount more than usual, which was why the hose came off. Now with a 4 inch diameter loop, just like the fuel line, there will not be a force pulling the hose back off the fitting. Maybe that will end the saga of CEL's.
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-15-2019, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I do a fair amount of bump starting the car and that stresses the rear engine mount more than usual
Do you mind me asking why you do this?
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