Join Date: Jul 2017
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Duh, I asked the "freewheel" question too soon. Yesterday, I did some more research and found that the front & rear are an "open diff" in 2wd like you said (my Dodge is the same way). Also, I found that there is an ADD & non-ADD version, and what they mean. Ours is the ADD version, but I have read about people doing a non-ADD conversion. I have a good idea of why they would do that, but if you know, could you give me a good explanation on the pros & cons? I look @ the cv's and I see the driver side not fully engaged, and I am able to turn that cv. Is this the ADD's doing or is there something not right? If the ADD is doing this, I don't think I care for this setup. Concerning the questionable lift, I think the 2" lift the seller was talking about is nothing more than someone "cranking up" the IFS and installing longer gas shocks to match. If this is true, I don't like this either. According to what I have read, articulation can cause cv binding and/or failure because this is not the proper way to lift, not to mention, what happens when the gas shocks leak down after age. Regarding locking hubs, I'm pretty solid on that idea. I'm thinking about keeping the 4.88's & running 31's to see how it does. Later, if it needs it, upgrading to 5.29's & 33's. The 5.29's would be putting the RPM's @ highway speed a little higher than I prefer for better MPG. Is there something I can do to offset this? Sorry, getting long winded again. Have a great weekend!
P.S. I've been trying to find a factory service manual download, but everything has been a dead end. Any ideas?
Last edited by Recon Ron; 07-29-2017 at 02:04 PM.
Reason: I want to add something I forgot.