No start after timing belt replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-18-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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No start after timing belt replacement

Hello everyone. My name is Micah. New to the forum and needing help with a 94 4Runner. I took the engine down to replace the leaky valve cover gaskets and since I was so close I decided to replace the timing belt. Not the first time I’ve done the timing belt on a 3.0 ,but I seem to have a problem getting it started this time. Double checked the timing before putting it back together. Turns over but will not start.
I have fuel and spark. Going to bring number one piston up and check the rotor to verify the timing is not 180 out. Any other ideas that I’m not thinking of. Kinda frustrating at this point. Any help would be great.
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-19-2019, 07:45 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

Are you sure you have the crankshaft and camshaft sensors hooked up? Have you tested them to make sure they are working properly?

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post #3 of 10 Old 02-19-2019, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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I ave not double checked that but I will tomorrow night. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-20-2019, 05:15 AM
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All I can say is that if it was running before you did the work then, you need to go back and recheck everything. I once got the fuel return line on the wrong line-that didn't work out so well. Be sure everything is plugged in. Check for fuel, spark, timing, and compression.
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-20-2019, 09:41 AM
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If the idle air valve was not working right prior to booster replacement, the problem may have not shown up due to bad booster allowing extra air into engine at idle.
Replacing the booster cut off this extra air flow and the idle air valve issues were compounded.
Jut a theory.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-16-2019, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Okay. I got it started. Timing had jumped. So we took it back down and now it’s running. So now for the new problem.
It starts right up run and sounds good. Parked it on a hill and got all the air out of the cooling system. It will run for about 10-30 minutes and the temperature starts to climb. Put a new radiator, new water pump, new radiator cap and new thermostat. Any ideas will greatly be appreciated as I’m getting frustrated.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-16-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry that should say 25-30 minutes
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-16-2019, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Rest the thermostat on the stove and put a new sensor on it. Bleed all the air out and it went up in temp, then came down to normal. The it started back up and got to the red line. Any suggestions??
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-21-2019, 02:49 PM
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Perform a compression test and a cooling system pressure test. If either tests indicate a blown head gasket, then you'll know. Do you know if yer engine is running lean? Was the coolant bubbling over into the coolant overflow reservoir? Have you measured the coolant temp with a known to be accurate temperature gauge/thermometer? An infrared thermometer gun would be close enough.

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post #10 of 10 Old 03-21-2019, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Compression test is good across the board.nothing lower then 170. Pressure test on the cooling system is holding 13lbs. It was not bubbling over to the reservoir but it did sound like it was bubbling in the radiator. It does fine at a idle but as soon as you drive around the block it starts up in temp. We shot various part of the cooling system and they all measure high enough to not keep letting it run. Gonna try a new fan clutch since it overheats on the drive. Let you know what happens.
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