7-pin wiring harness for 2017 Highlander Limited? - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Highlander 3rd Generation (2014-2019) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 3rd generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #16 of 19 Old 04-16-2019, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BUFFO View Post
VTH...Going by ole mem, but recall a thread on how 2017 & newer HLs might not charge 12V batt. in trailer being towed? Maybe n/a, just aheads up in case.
I have 12 volt wired to the 7 way by following the etrailer directions. This should allow the battery to charge. Once the new pigtail arrives in a day or two I will hook up to the trailer and know for sure.
I must say I love the Highlander, but its "tow readiness" is a let down. I don't get why Toyota does this.
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post #17 of 19 Old 04-18-2019, 01:00 PM
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7-pin and brake controler install complete. Had to wait for harness with diode and proper voltage tester. BTW, the cold brake line is the BIG GREEN WIRE.
Everything works as it should. I used velcro to attach the brake controller to the little change drawer to the left of steering wheel, it sits in the glove box when not in use. Overall a bit of a PIA, but with the $700 in savings over having it done in a shop.
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post #18 of 19 Old 04-18-2019, 11:20 PM
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may I ask why using a 1 amp diode when the brake requirements are 7-10amps nominal? this is on the BOO sense and not on the output right?



for a 1 amp diode in a non-ac system you could use any of the 1N914 or 1N4148 variants from mouser, heck I got a 4-5 hundred in stock, but mind you, a diode like this has at least a 1volt forward drop at max current (a 10amp diode for example has a 3v drop) determine if this is a problem FIRST.



if you have the toyota wiring harness, it uses a set of soft relays separately sourced so they do not interfere with vehicle lighting and the drain current is well below anything that will trigger SS. so use the brake light sense from the harness instead and if you are using E-brakes, make darn sure you derive a separate ground as the one provided will not return the proper amount of current and dont count on frame contact with a new hitch - toyota is concerned about galvanic corrosion and the frame and hitch are WELL coated.
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post #19 of 19 Old 04-19-2019, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
may I ask why using a 1 amp diode when the brake requirements are 7-10amps nominal? this is on the BOO sense and not on the output right?



for a 1 amp diode in a non-ac system you could use any of the 1N914 or 1N4148 variants from mouser, heck I got a 4-5 hundred in stock, but mind you, a diode like this has at least a 1volt forward drop at max current (a 10amp diode for example has a 3v drop) determine if this is a problem FIRST.



if you have the toyota wiring harness, it uses a set of soft relays separately sourced so they do not interfere with vehicle lighting and the drain current is well below anything that will trigger SS. so use the brake light sense from the harness instead and if you are using E-brakes, make darn sure you derive a separate ground as the one provided will not return the proper amount of current and dont count on frame contact with a new hitch - toyota is concerned about galvanic corrosion and the frame and hitch are WELL coated.
Most of this information is well above my pay grade. But, the Tekonsha P2 brake controler would cause the dash CEL lights to come on when using the manual rake lever on the controller. I guess it sent electricity back into the vehicle and it doesn't like that. The diode stops thos from happening. it is located in the power wire of the controller harness.

I am not using the Toyota hitch or wiring. Toyota wont even install a 7 pin on the Highlander. Rather, a Draw-Tite hitch and wiring kit from etrailer. I grounded the rear wiring in the bumper, never considered grounding the system into the hitch.
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