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Stop/Start Custom Disabling Device Build

110K views 320 replies 61 participants last post by  funman1 
#1 · (Edited)
EDIT: This completed project can be found now here. (To save you from sifting though the many pages)

Due to a recent post in which people were taking issue with the fact that there was no way to permanently disable the Stop/Start feature (Not to be confused with the "Start/Stop" Button)
Apparently each time you restart the vehicle you must press the button again to disable the Stop/Start Feature to disable it again.

So I decided to create this device that will always remember to "Push the button" for you.
So how it's designed is that the 12V power is connected to a power source that's switched IE: Power Port (Cig Lighter)
Then the switch to disable the feature is wired to the device. I was unsure if the switch was normally closed or open when I designed the device so I made it work with both NC/NO.

There is a rotary switch so you can select the time delay between startup and when it pushed it. It has 4 time options (15, 30, 60 Seconds and 3 Mins or 180 seconds)
I can't see why you would need more than 15 or 30 seconds tops, but I had two other options to fill so I made it 60 seconds and 3 mins.

The heart of the device is an ATTiny 85 Microprocessor running on internal 8mhz clock.
I used a resistor network and an analog read to determine the selector position.
It has a 250ma 5V regulator to bring down the voltage from ~12-14+VDC.
Then used a MOSFET to switch the relay as needed with a diode to protect everything from the field collapse when power is removed from the relay coil.
LEDs, Resistors, VReg, and MOSFETs are SMT (Surface Mount Devices)
In this Rev A I did miss a resistor I needed, but was able to solder it to the bottom, if I ever make another revision I will fix it in the design.
Blue LED is for power indication, and Red LED is to show the relay when it's hit with it's 250ms (1/4 second) pulse to simulate the button push.

I designed the PCB in Eagle CAD, and had OSHPark print the PCBoards, I usually use PCBWay but this board was so small the shipping cost would have been prohibitive.
Programmed the Microprocessor with the Arduino IDE with the following code below. Very simple but very effective.
Code:
byte RelayPin = 4; byte Selector = 3; byte Pulse = 250; long WaitTime;
int Sec15 = 500; int Sec30 = 1023; int Sec60 = 0; int Sec180 = 1000;
void setup() {
pinMode (RelayPin, OUTPUT);  pinMode (Selector, INPUT);
delay(500);
if (analogRead(Selector) >= Sec15 && analogRead(Selector) < Sec180){WaitTime = 15000;}
if (analogRead(Selector) == Sec30){WaitTime = 30000;}
if (analogRead(Selector) <= Sec60){WaitTime = 60000;}
if (analogRead(Selector) >= Sec180 && analogRead(Selector) < Sec30){WaitTime = 180000;}
delay (WaitTime); digitalWrite (RelayPin, HIGH); delay(Pulse); digitalWrite (RelayPin, LOW);
  }
void loop() {}
Below is the video I made of the SMD soldering I did on it, as well as a final test.
Going to make a 3D printed case for it next stay tuned for that in the near future.






 
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#180 ·
I just bought a 2018 SE, and I put my Auto-stop/start setting on whatever is less-than-most-automatic.

After stopping, an alert comes on that says something like: "If you want the engine to stop, press the brake harder". So, it doesn't stop if I don't push the brake pedal down harder than is required to hold the car steady...maybe my foot pressure is highly calibrated, but, I don't see the need for something to turn the auto-stop/start function off.

The way I operate the vehicle, mine doesn't turn the engine off even when I'm at a long traffic light...if this has been answered in the previous 12 pages, that's why I don't know the answer. No way is it worth digging through all that to find out that some people don't wish to modulate the pressure on the brake pedal. OTOH, if mine is malfunctioning...I'm going to just let it malfunction.
 
#183 ·
If you don't press the brake pedal hard enough it will not activate. There's about 10 different parameters it looks at before killing your engine and all of them must align at once. Everything from brake pressure to engine temp to battery voltage to how centered the steering wheel is..
So you aren't meeting all the criteria for it to shut off. By the sounds of it not pressing the brake hard enough which if you always drive like that it will never activate.. :)
 
#193 ·
Thank you, funman1

Just ordered one of your stop/start modules. I remembered watching one of your first YouTube videos on designing this device. We just purchased a 2019 HL Limited, and the first thing I HATED was the stop/start feature. My wife had no problem with pushing the button to disable it every time she started it, but I know, there will be a time when she may forget to do that. I just joined this forum and was glad to find this thread about the development stages since the first YouTube video I saw. Had I known about this project at the start, I would have purchased the tools for you to complete the project and you could have paid me back whenever you made enough off of selling these controllers.

My brother is a genius designing metalworking workholding fixtures, similar to the way you are with electronics. It's great you know how to do this stuff since almost everything today involves electronics. To me its all 'lights and mirrors.' I had to take electrical networks in engineering college pass/fail to get through it.

As far as 'knock-offs' from China, especially the ones that use the computer connector, anyone would avoid that because it denies using a lot of the GPS tracking devices like Vyncs that use that port too. And as far as patents go, the cost is way too much in most situations. The best thing to do is offer a solid dependable product and word gets around. Quality is more important than anything else (in my opinion). I will be advertising by word of mouth your device, because most of those I know do not want that stop/start feature at all. When I get it I'll look into possibly using Velcro somehow to secure the module under the plastic.

I just put my first posts up on undercoating the new Highlander. Found some problems caused by poor production line performance (in my opinion) that negated any good anti-corrosion designs used in the wheel wells.

Thanks again for taking the time, along with others, to perfect this most useful device.
 
#194 ·
Couple of installation questions

funman1, sorry to bother you, but after re-reading this thread, and in anticipation of receiving my stop/start stop unit this coming Monday (if the mail is not interrupted), I have a couple of questions.

I've been reviewing the steps necessary to access the area behind the plastic panel by watching several YouTube videos, and using that LowerInstrumentPanel.pdf posted by TeesHigh (thank you TeesHigh). So I should be prepared enough to install it rather quickly when it arrives.

RedBelly showed that he bubble wrapped his unit and wire tied it to an adjacent unused switch.

Question 1: Does the unit generate any heat when in use, so that it has to be somewhat ventilated to keep it cool, and not hermetically sealed?

Question 2: I suppose it would not be best to wrap it in any conductive material that could possibly short it out somehow?

From the picture on eBay it looks like it is not in a plastic box, like the green box around it in earlier posted pictures (which might have been a Beta unit). If it comes without the containment/mounting box (which it looks like in the eBay picture), I was going to machine a small box with top and clearance holes for the connectors and wires out and into it for mounting. If it just comes without the box, then I was envisioning just using small wire ties through the two holes in the PCB board to secure it to something inside the panel with some kind of insulation backing between the bottom of the unit and whatever it is attached to, like other wires.

Question 3: What would be the best backing on the bottom side of the PCB board to keep any soldered contact from shorting out if I had it wire tied to an adjacent wire bundle, where vibration could eventually create a hole in any insulation for a short situation? Or, could I just silicone seal the whole bottom of the unit, assuming no heat build up problem would result?

Our Highlander is a 2019 Limited. I'm not sure if the fuse box is in the same location as on a 2017, but expect that it is. I plan on taking more detailed pictures of these things (if I have time to do so) when I do the installation.

I remember reading somewhere in this topic thread about the fuse location ICB2 (or something like that), and something about using one or two fuses. It looks like the connector to be plugged into the fuse panel has a second slot for a fuse that is not used, and I assume is not necessary. I assume that it is just to be plugged into an empty fuse slot, if there is one not used. OR, is this designed to be plugged into an already used fuse slot, and the fuse that is already in the slot I remove it and put into the empty slot on the fuse plug that powers the unit?

Question 4: If I remember correctly, someone did not use the fuse plug that comes with the unit, but just stuck the wire for the power supply wedged into the fuse slot between the 7.5 amp fuse and socket so he could get the fuse box cover back onto the fuse strip. Sounds like a nice solution to getting the fuse box cover on, but not so comfortable with a pinch fit where unknown external inputs, like vibrations, might possibly break the contact somehow. There is a cover on it to keep fluids out, and I have been thinking about modifying the cover with a Dremel tool to make clearance for the fuse plug to plug into the fuse strip with the cover in place. Not sure how important it is to have that fuse cover on all the time. If there are empty fuse slots adjacent to each other, I would think I could cut out enough clearance for the fuse power plug to plug in with the fuse strip cover on.

When it comes to electronics, as I already stated before, about the only thing I am naturally up to speed on (as a former Machinist Mate in #1 Engine Room and Reactor Plant on the USS Truxtun DLG[N]-35) is my ability to identify the difference between a 'male' plug and 'female' socket for electrical connectors. Anything beyond that is all 'lights and mirrors' to me.

Question 5: Are there any off-the-shelf plastic boxes available (like in the former pictures above) that can be purchased to house this OUTSTANDING electronic device?

Thanks ahead of time for any answers you or anyone else can provide.
 
#196 ·
Q1: No, it does not generate any significant heat, it draws about 1ma in in sleep mode (or about 0.01 watts of heat) so Virtually nothing.
Q2: It comes wrapped in PVC Shrink wrap so there should be no worries of contact with conductive things in the vehicle. The 3d printed boxes were abandoned in the beta testing in favor of the shrink wrap.
Q3A: See answer to Q2 :)
Q3B: You remove the fuse IG2 and insert the fuse you removed into the fuse tap that's attached to the device in the empty slot. Then plug the fuse tap into IG2 slot where the fuse was located previously. The fuse tap will still route the power through the IG2 Fuse correctly and adds a new fuse for the SS device.
Q4: I would not advocate for modifying the unit you bought. Yes you could modify the cover if you really wanted. 99% of people just toss the cover in the glove box.
Q5: There are no off the shelf boxes I'm aware of to house the unit in that would just work off the shelf, If you did get a box you would need to cut holes in it as needed.

I think you are trying to over engineer it :)
My advice would be to wrap 1 layer of bubble wrap around it like Redbelly did to keep it from possibly rattling(He's the only one who's reported rattling so far, so it's rare that they rattle, but it's definitely possible for them to.)
Then put the fuse cover in the glove box and call it a day :)

That's what I would recommend but YMMV :)
Hope that helps shed some light on it for ya, let us know...
 
#197 ·
I'd recommend getting one of these fuse pullers, it'll make removing the fuse much easier (and, yes, there are cheap(er) plastic ones available too): Jonard FP-600 Fuse Puller


And FWIW, I just removed the fuse box cover and tossed it in my storage bin between the front seats (just like @funman1 suggested). I also just left my board hanging - no zip ties, no bubble wrap (it seems perfectly fine that way, no rattling whatsoever).
 
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#198 ·
Problems with start/stop disabling switch

I have had my device installed for quite a while now. Recently I have been having an issue where the device does it’s thing on startup, the orange light goes on as the device activates the switch, but a few minutes later while driving the orange light goes out, and the device is no longer activated. Sometimes the light stays on for the entire trip, but more frequently recently it goes out. It seems random. I checked the connections and everything appears to be correct. And the tap into the fuse box is solid. I’m assuming that there may be a problem with the device? If I push the switch the orange light comes back on, but may again go out at any point later.

Is anyone else having an issue like this?

Doug
 
#199 ·
I have had my device installed for quite a while now. Recently I have been having an issue where the device does it’s thing on startup, the orange light goes on as the device activates the switch, but a few minutes later while driving the orange light goes out, and the device is no longer activated. Sometimes the light stays on for the entire trip, but more frequently recently it goes out. It seems random. I checked the connections and everything appears to be correct. And the tap into the fuse box is solid. I’m assuming that there may be a problem with the device? If I push the switch the orange light comes back on, but may again go out at any point later.

Is anyone else having an issue like this?

Doug
There's only two things that can cause this, either
A the power is cycling via loose connection causing the unit to reset and push the button again.
OR B The vehicle is turning it back off for some reason where a certain criteria is meet where the vehicle re-enables it.
To test you can remove the device for a week and just press the button manually for a week and see if it's the vehicle ren-enabling it,
 
#200 ·
Disassembling for installation on 2019 HL Limited

Received my SS device the other day as expected in excellent condition in a zip lock anti-static bag. Been waiting to get the chance to install it on our car when not in continuous use by my wife.

Tonight I had time to scope out the plastic panels as described in the suggested videos prior to their removal for installation. After surveying what is present in our 2019 Limited, as compared to the suggested videos to watch for disassembly, those video are of older year models, and I am somewhat hesitant to start taking things apart, because I noticed that there is an air bag in the main plastic panel that holds the "A" push button. Just wondering if it might be wise to disconnect the negative on the battery, just in case, to prevent an unforeseen inadvertent deployment of the (expensive) air bag?

Second, the top left small panel on the side of the dashboard adjacent to the door is not the same as show in the suggested videos to watch for disassembly, as it looks like that does not need to be removed prior to removing the bolt at the bottom left of the push button panel. It looks like it is part of the dashboard itself, and not a removable small piece of plastic like shown in the suggested videos.

It looks like the dark narrow panel below the main one with the push button needs to be removed by removing the two Phillips screws prior to removing the push button panel.

It does not look like the steering column plastic has to be removed to install the device. But I still have not been able to see where the fuse panel is located without removing the push button panel.

Has anyone owning a 2019 HLL already removed these panels to access the back of the "A" push button? Any guidance greatly appreciated to preclude unintended accidental destruction due to lack of knowledge. You know, the see one, do one, teach one, kind of protocol.

Planning on trying to get a video or a series of explanatory pictures to post of the work once I get the requisite confidence to get started on the install. Thanks.
 
#202 ·
Received my SS device the other day as expected in excellent condition in a zip lock anti-static bag. Been waiting to get the chance to install it on our car when not in continuous use by my wife.

Tonight I had time to scope out the plastic panels as described in the suggested videos prior to their removal for installation. After surveying what is present in our 2019 Limited, as compared to the suggested videos to watch for disassembly, those video are of older year models, and I am somewhat hesitant to start taking things apart, because I noticed that there is an air bag in the main plastic panel that holds the "A" push button. Just wondering if it might be wise to disconnect the negative on the battery, just in case, to prevent an unforeseen inadvertent deployment of the (expensive) air bag?

Second, the top left small panel on the side of the dashboard adjacent to the door is not the same as show in the suggested videos to watch for disassembly, as it looks like that does not need to be removed prior to removing the bolt at the bottom left of the push button panel. It looks like it is part of the dashboard itself, and not a removable small piece of plastic like shown in the suggested videos.

It looks like the dark narrow panel below the main one with the push button needs to be removed by removing the two Phillips screws prior to removing the push button panel.

It does not look like the steering column plastic has to be removed to install the device. But I still have not been able to see where the fuse panel is located without removing the push button panel.

Has anyone owning a 2019 HLL already removed these panels to access the back of the "A" push button? Any guidance greatly appreciated to preclude unintended accidental destruction due to lack of knowledge. You know, the see one, do one, teach one, kind of protocol.

Planning on trying to get a video or a series of explanatory pictures to post of the work once I get the requisite confidence to get started on the install. Thanks.
Go to YouTube and check out the video on how to install the 12Voltsolutions remote starter. Excellent video on the dash panel removal.
 
#201 · (Edited)
Reply to Dbliaco's Problem

Sounds like a little contact enhancer jell for each connection might be a wise thing to do on installation. Don't think it would hurt anything.

funman1, correct me where I may be wrong, but this SS unit only sends a signal to the computer once after seven seconds, and then goes 'silent' as far as any output at all to the computer, unless the "A" button is depressed, OR, a bad connection power outage to the board causes "a button push" input to the computer, which sounds like the SS unit keeps giving off a small signal to keep the computer happy with an "off" input.

Just trying to figure out the fault tree flow chart. Could be a wire connection disconnect (open circuit) from the fuse box plug to the board too maybe, if a power supply outage to the board can cause this. Just thinking, wondering, what could be the problem.
 
#207 ·
Sounds like a little contact enhancer jell for each connection might be a wise thing to do on installation. Don't think it would hurt anything.

funman1, correct me where I may be wrong, but this SS unit only sends a signal to the computer once after seven seconds, and then goes 'silent' as far as any output at all to the computer, unless the "A" button is depressed, OR, a bad connection power outage to the board causes "a button push" input to the computer, which sounds like the SS unit keeps giving off a small signal to keep the computer happy with an "off" input.

Just trying to figure out the fault tree flow chart. Could be a wire connection disconnect (open circuit) from the fuse box plug to the board too maybe, if a power supply outage to the board can cause this. Just thinking, wondering, what could be the problem.
ok so yes, after 7 or 8 seconds the device sends a pulse to the ecu the same way pushing the mechanical switch would.
If the power cycles on the unit for any reason, then it will count 7 seconds and send a pulse again. It has no way of knowing if SS is enabled or disabled. So if it gets power once it turns off SS.
If it gets power again (Power cycled) it will turn SS on.

As for the 4 wires to the switch question, two wires are for back lighting the button, the other two are for the switch. One is ground and the other is the signal input.

I've had several 2019 owners install with no extra questions or issues, so I have no idea what you are seeing that's so different or unusual?
 
#214 ·
It took years of customer complaints for BMW to offer a "permanent" shut off (it just remembers the last enabled/disabled state the start-stop system was in, and my understanding is that it took them a very long time to be convinced that they could even legally offer this "feature"). I've not heard of other manufacturers offering this (although there certainly may be), so I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for Toyota to offer it (especially given how conservative they are).
 
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#216 · (Edited)
Just got done reading the BMW forum on this topic, plus some comments at the end of an article about disabling the BMW SS feature through a "last user setting" option. One poster related his story about how this feature almost got him into a situation like the theoretical one I proffered in my last post. It is only a matter of time for a fatality to occur as this stop/start feature becomes ubiquitous, increasing the probability of such happening.

I clearly remember the discussion my wife and I had about this feature being on the Highlander we were going to buy. She said no problem having to push a button every time she starts the car. I said but there will be a time when you forget to do it. And, as a matter of fact, she has admitted to forgetting to push the deactivation button several times now, but always has done so before coming to any first stop light. Since it was going to be her car, not mine, the rest of the vehicle was what she wanted. So we got it.

I'd never purchase a vehicle with that feature as my main car or truck. I've always purchased the most powerful engine available in every vehicle I've ever purchased, because my experience has been that instantaneous excessive power, when needed, can be the difference between a close call and an accident. Having to start an engine does not provide 'instantaneous' power. And, starting an engine after a few years on the motor is going to be less 'instantaneous' due to predictable degradation of the system components.

The extra stress put on starters, drive belts, etc., even though designed to be more durable for this kind of a feature to work, has to be more demanding on engine components than keeping the motor running without frequent start stops. Justification of this system feature by arguing the engine is up to operating temperature, and involved components have been designed for heavy usage, defies decades of historical knowledge about how mechanical components wear, even if made more durable.

How easy is it to replace these worn out components on vehicles having this feature? How long will they work before needing replacement? Only time will tell. When starters and other engine components fail, and need to be replaced by those who can't do the work themselves, the extra cost in addition to fuel savings will be forked over to the repair shops. I had a friend who was a salesman for several different car manufacturers. He told me dealerships make their big money on repair work, and essentially give new cars away. Mechanical designs to make this feature work only increase the probability that most customers will be visiting a dealership repair shop more frequently.

For my wife, until I get Steve's device installed, it will have to become second nature for her to push the button when starting the car, just like putting on the seat belt.
 
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#215 ·
I simply use a light touch on the brake pedal when stopped. This doesn't trigger the "Stop", and, there is an alert that lets me know the Stop is available, if I push a bit harder.

It's really easy to do...nothing required other than paying attention to your foot pressure. And, if I'm at one of the lights that I know is going to keep me stopped for more than a minute, I can decide to push a tiny bit harder and the Stop/Start will do it's thing.

I just don't get the big deal about it.
 
#217 ·
i simply use a light touch on the brake pedal when stopped. This doesn't trigger the "stop", and, there is an alert that lets me know the stop is available, if i push a bit harder.

It's really easy to do...nothing required other than paying attention to your foot pressure. And, if i'm at one of the lights that i know is going to keep me stopped for more than a minute, i can decide to push a tiny bit harder and the stop/start will do it's thing.

I just don't get the big deal about it.

ditto
 
#219 · (Edited)
Big Deal? Nothing of Interest?

Reading as much as possible on different vehicle forums that discuss this specific topic, it is obvious many find this feature satisfactory to their liking, where many also despise it completely.

From my perspective, I'd have to say it is not a real 'big deal,' YET. After reading the way BMW handled the issue the way they did though, I suspect that they did not make that decision based solely upon customer sentiment. The more I think about it, and ponder everything related to why a second pulse may be sent to the computer, the more important the possibility of the computer re-starting a manually disabled Stop/Start feature becomes after it had been turned off by the driver seconds after starting the vehicle. Such would be an anomaly outside of the engineering design intent, or in other words a "defect" in the original intended operation of the finished system design.

So, one BMW driver related his story where the Start/Stop feature almost physically cost him dearly. Imagine he was forced to come to a hard stop on top of some frequently used commuter railroad tracks, and such anomaly stopped his engine and eliminated his ability to avoid getting hit by a train when it was not supposed to stop because he manually turned Start/Stop off. Or if his vehicle stopped and would not start blocking a fully loaded fuel truck from clearing the tracks completely, and a train takes out the tanker along with several or more vehicles and their occupants. Many might say that's just an alarmist far fetched improbable hypothetical fact situation. On its face it may look like that, but would definitely not be beyond the realm of possibilities in this world as we already know it so well.

This is why thorough fault tree analysis was done on the safety of the LNG storage ports at Long Beach, Oxnyard, and Point Conception. What is the probability of a major catastrophic accident? What is interesting in this matter is that BMW provided an option. Why? Was their reasoning based solely on customer sentiment? The other thing is that this thread has discussed this matter enough to point out where this feature could potentially lead to a serious situation not completely contemplated by the manufacturer, whose main focus was most likely increasing miles per gallon at the expense of customer and overall public safety.

What WOULD make this a 'big deal' would be the kind of potential incident discussed, occurring due to a fault directly attributed to the vehicle's defective engineering design. Add to that those actively involved and responsible in the manufacturing of this design feature reading this topic thread, and dismissing it as clap trap. I can only imagine how interesting 'discovery' aimed at the manufacturer would become investigating a plaintiff's case like this.

Just my opinion, which means very little at this time in history. For me, however, I see a greater potential for loss of corporate product reputation, and customer trust that existed prior to any set of facts that triggers such a legal fiasco. Not worth taking the chance, in my opinion, just because the government regulations may be claimed to have supposedly 'forced' the manufacturer to come up with fuel savings implementing features like this Start/Stop at the expense of overall safety, when there are other design options that could produce the same fuel savings or more.
 
#220 ·
... just because the government regulations may be claimed to have supposedly 'forced' the manufacturer to come up with fuel savings implementing features like this Start/Stop at the expense of overall safety ...
If I remember correctly from the BMW forums that I was on (I owned a 335i prior to my '18 Limited), neither BMW nor any other manufacturer has been forced to implement Automatic Start-Stop (ASS). And I believe that even the EPA has acknowledged that the fuel savings is minimal. Apparently the main benefit from ASS is emissions from cars in stop-and-go traffic (although maybe there are new data that clarifies the benefits from ASS systems). At least that's what I remember from the threads/posts from a couple of years ago.
 
#222 ·
Can't stop researching this subject matter now

Been spending most of my time on the computer the last week or so reading up on the Stop/Start feature being included in most car manufacturer's product lines. Just read where GM has a model coming up where it will not be possible to disengage the feature at all.

The one thing that keeps swirling in my mind, as I read about this government-induced 'technology,' is that I am going to be spending more time up-keeping my 2007 Dodge Dakota. It runs well, handles well, and I'll just keep repairing it as needed until I croak. If it gets wrecked beyond repair, I'm thinking I'll be looking for a pre-SS vehicle at the used car lot up the road two miles. I'm being much more inclined toward purchasing that Mohawk four-post lift for my garage instead of planning on one of these new computerized vehicles being jammed down my throat in the future.

We've had seven Toyota cars (three Supras) since 1982. Never had a problem with any of them except the brand new 1983 Supra that had too much run-out in the flywheel, causing the car to jump pulsate as the clutch was released. Warranty covered a new flywheel. I was seriously looking at getting a new Tacoma or Tundra this coming year, but if they have this feature built in, that's a deal maker for me from here on. I would never purchase another vehicle with SS that can't be disabled permanently. It's that big of a deal for me with such a useless feature on a vehicle out here in the country.

Then I think about all the new totally electric vehicles they are coming out with, in particular that Rivan R1T truck that will supposedly go 400 miles between charges. And watched a recent video about Finland or Norway where electric vehicles now make up about 50% of the vehicles on the road, with charging stations all over the place.

My thoughts are the "handwriting is on the wall" as far as the future of electric vehicles. I can see the time, soon after my DNA disappears from the face of the earth, where everyone will be driving electric vehicles. Those Tesla cars sure are fast off the line with torque way beyond gas powered production cars. And with all the solar panels we have producing electricity for free now (close to hardware paid off), we could be charging an electric vehicle with free 'fuel' every day right here at home.
 
#223 ·
... Just read where GM has a model coming up where it will not be possible to disengage the feature at all. ...
Yet another reason to never purchase another GM product (not that I needed another reason). :)
 
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#225 ·
Well I guess it's time to repeat myself again here. You don't need any special device to disable stop start, just the next time you start your highlander, move that shift lever all the way to the left (sport mode I think they call it), push and hold it forward for 1 second. You will see S8 on the dashboard. Your highlander will be more responsive, and STOP START IS AUTOMATICALLY DISABLED! Try it you'll like it, and no buttons to switch, no devices to buy and install! Ya gotta move the lever anyway, just move it farther, and hold it forward for 1 second....ALL YOUR PROBLEMS ARE GONE!!! You don't have to shift anything manually, just leave it in S8. I do this always, it's second nature to me now. You're welcome.


Oh, and for the record...about wearing your components out and such, that's all BS. It's designed to do the job. Toyota engineers aren't morons, they're really the reason you're buying a Toyota in the first place! Anyway, TRY what I said above and you have a starting system that will outlast the car! And for those who don't know by now, you also have a better battery too! And stop/start isn't going to wear your engine out sooner if you do use it. This isn't 1950 and engines aren't made the same as then! OK off to take a high blood pressure pill!
 
#226 · (Edited)
Well I guess it's time to repeat myself again here.

Oh, and for the record...about wearing your components out and such, that's all BS. It's designed to do the job. Toyota engineers aren't morons, they're really the reason you're buying a Toyota in the first place! Anyway, TRY what I said above and you have a starting system that will outlast the car! . . . And stop/start isn't going to wear your engine out sooner if you do use it. This isn't 1950 and engines aren't made the same as then! OK off to take a high blood pressure pill!
Thanks, Craig3277, for repeating yourself. I'm still trying to learn, and get comfortable with, all the features our 2019 HLL has on it. Almost like learning a whole new computer operating system. Without going back to the Owner's Manual, I think I remember reading something about the Sport mode, and what you say makes sense. Will try that tonight when we drive back and forth to Cincinnati. I totally despise the Stop/Start feature.

The real reason I bought Toyota vehicles years ago, was because they were assembled in Japan, where the Japanese work ethic was such that bolts were not started cross-threaded and just burnt in with an air wrench, whereas while working at a plant in Aurora, IL, as a co-op student, I saw just that being done by U.S. manufacturing floor Union employees, who had a personal dislike for the company, in wheel loader radiator housings. Our Highlander was made in Indiana. I found an assembly 'defect' in the rear wheel wells of our Highlander, which I documented in another thread with pictures.

After working in manufacturing, from GE aircraft engines (production engineer, MRB qualified), electric motors, earth moving equipment, and part owner of a workholding fixture company that provided many workholding solutions to the big three, and essentially many companies involved in machining of all types ferrous and non-ferrous stock, including bowling balls, I'd have to say there are 'morons' in every company, from the design departments and all the way up through manufacturing to shipping and receiving.

It seems like there are very few individuals left today that are good machinists versus a typical operator. I've seen great designs of individual components for aircraft engines that were impossible to be manufactured in required production numbers. Caterpillar put its design engineers thorough every manufacturing department in the plant before ending up in the design department. In fact, I had to join the UAW to be able to work the manufacturing floor, back in the late '70s. Too many design engineers have no manufacturing floor or maintenance department experience on the products they are designing.

Just my opinion, but what starts out as a good idea for a product is something that goes through many stages or design revisions before ending up with a solid product. There always seems to be something that surfaces along the way requiring a design change for one reason or another. And turning away from decades of common sense knowledge (about wear due to frequent starts and stops on any engine) to add a feature that is mainly designed to reduce fuel consumption and emissions to meet government regulations, at the expense of increased potential wear and tear, can only lead to more design changes ahead, after the deliberately 'hardened' components do their duty at the expense of other components, that are not yet identified potential problems. The true test of how much these so-called improved or 'hardened' components will be, is the proving grounds of LA traffic jams for those driving every day back and forth to work, with a few years of individual vehicle start/stop experience. Steady-state works best every time from London to Sydney, or Frankfurt to Singapore.

Time will tell on the test bed of highways with thousands of test drivers (customers), and the auto manufacturers will be gathering the frequency of reoccurring problems that arise through their dealership service departments, and make necessary design changes to compensate for what was not foreseen ahead of time. For example, they might have to start using Kevlar belts versus standard drive belts. My niece's husband just told me that GM is going to save cash by getting rid of the tensioner/idler pulley on a drive belt, and the way the belt will have to be removed is to cut the belt off. If that is true, I don't know what the assembly procedure is going to be, much less the added cost of repairs. GM, in our opinion, was the worst of the big three when it came to design and manufacturing. Where they should have used horizontal machining centers instead of verticals to machine an air condition compressor housing eventually led to a huge bag of worms in that production cell. Plus, GM had a handful or two of different locks for their vehicles, where Ford and Chrysler had only a few different part numbers. It's no wonder to us that it looks like GM is still going down the tubes.

Start stop on my diesel powered 60" zero-turn lawn mower takes its toll on blade drive belts, sooner rather than later every year. Plus, the most annoying thing I found out, too late to do anything about, was that the oil drain pan bolt had only about 3 mm clearance between the bolt head and a steel structural beam. First time I went to change the oil, I could not remove the drain plug more than a turn or two, so tight still the oil didn't even leak out. That's really SICK when you think about it.
 
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#229 ·
Guys start a new thread if you want to argue about SS benefits or disadvantages.
This is a build thread for those who wish to participate in disabling theirs.
And for us to pool our knowledge of the system and understand better what makes it tick.
Start a new thread if you love or hate SS or go resurrect another thread where it's been argued about at nauseam.
 
#232 · (Edited)
Makes sense to me. Sorry Steve for cluttering up this one. Being new to the forum, I'm still not sure how people get some things to show up in their posts. Move all of my posts, if possible, or delete them if you can as a Moderator. Color me 'gone.' I'm out of here.
 
#241 ·
Well, I don't know if the dealer has noticed, but they haven't said anything. The car has approx. 25k miles and no issues and has only been to the dealer for the service program.

I'm not worried about a warranty they issue developing as the device doesn't do anything but push the button for me (i.e. momentarily close contacts a few seconds after energized).

Anyway, this device is exactly what I was looking for and it works for me.
 
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