And when the threads on the housing fail, you'll be treated to a similar fate that the rubber lines of the engine oil cooler gave the 2GR-FE owners a few years back - an oil leak that toasts your engine! That's a well conceived solution to the over tightening problem.....
I've been changing oil since I was 16 years old, starting with my Karmann Ghia VW. Never in my lifetime (now 70) have I ever had any problems changing oil in an engine, until now. It has 4,960 miles on it, and I wanted to change the oil at 5,000, even though they say you can go up to 10,000 before first change. I changed my oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) every 5,000 miles in my 2000 Dodge Dakota HO V8, and now it has over 500,000 miles on the engine, and still running well.
Before we got the vehicle I bought all the oil changing tools to remove the filter housing, etc. Got under the vehicle this evening and started by using that spigot to drain the filter housing, which did not work very well at all. It would have been easier to just remove the housing and dump the oil in the tub.
I could not believe how much torque it took to unscrew the plastic housing from the block. I did not use a torque wrench to remove the housing, but it took about 3-6 turns (estimate) before I could turn it off with my hand instead of the wrench. Got it off, took the old filter out, put the new one in and proceeded to reinstall the filter housing. I started to screw it in by hand, and after got it going a thread or two, I started to use the special wrench adapter to tighten it up all the way. After about three or four turns, it started to get hard to turn, even with the wrench, and I started to hear something like 'sand' grinding in the threads.
I removed the filter housing to look at the threads to see what might be causing the abrasive noise. What I found was aluminum fragments embedded in the plastic housing threads, and it had trashed the first three or four layers of threads. I then got farther under the car to take a look at the aluminum internal threads in the block only to find that there were paper-thin leading edge threads that had galled up into the plastic and trashed the plastic housing. Where the leading edge first threads used to be until the thickness of the threads were such that they did not flake off, there was the left over rough surface where those leading edge paper-thin threads used to be.
Needless to say, I did not have another plastic housing in hand, and without a lift there was no way I could get under the vehicle to dress up the internal threads to a condition they should have been machined in the first place. So, tomorrow morning I will have to get the vehicle towed to the dealer for repair.
I disconnected the negative battery lead so the vehicle cannot be started, since there is no oil filter housing installed at this time. The only way I can think this is going to have to be repaired is to have the first and second threads removed by a small hand grinder to get up to some thick threads as the starting threads for the housing.
Maybe this plastic oil housing is not so much a bad design as it is the result of bad manufacturing machining. At this time I would prefer the old style filters that you just screwed on with a large rubber gasket at the top where it met the block.
If we ever let a thread job like that leave our machine shop, we'd have been out of business years ago.
Over the years, all the engineering jobs I ever had, from production engineer at GE Aircraft Engine Group, and co-op trained engineer at Caterpillar in Aurora, IL, prior to that, and all the maintenance I have had to do on my trucks and autos, and engine room machinery on board ship during Nam, I say that design engineers should not be allowed to design one part for a product until they have had hours of time doing maintenance on said products. Mandating such just might make it easier to do maintenance on machines, or I should say, even possible.