Your opinion wanted re: VW with broken timing belt - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-12-2019, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Your opinion wanted re: VW with broken timing belt

2007 VW Passat 2.0 Turbo Wolfburg Edition, gas, 4 cylinder 251K miles

My friend texted me with this message and photo:

"My VW Passat snapped timing belt while my son was driving to work. Apparently when broke it bent a valve, maybe additional damage. Repair center prefers to obtain a new block. I wanted to run this past you. If you were in the same situation, what would you do?"

He doesn't have the time, space, tools, etc. to do it.



This is what I'm considering telling him and am looking for the opinions of others before doing so: "Get rid of the car. Sell it for whatever it's worth in the shape it's in now and move on to a Toyota or Honda."

Additional info: I don't know if the repair center (a VW dealer) actually knows by visual observation that one valve is bent, or if mutiple valves are bent. I'm also assuming they just pulled the timing belt cover off and saw the broken belt and told him he needs a new block and that the valves are bent because the belt is broken.

What do you think? Junk it or have a shop fix it?

.



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Last edited by John Anthony; 07-12-2019 at 07:33 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-12-2019, 07:02 PM
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Move the crank to 90 degrees after TDC, use a breaker bar to hold it in place, then blow compressed air into each cylinder and see if it will hold pressure.

Pull the valve cover off and move the camshafts so that each cylinder has both valves closed when you air up THAT cylinder. The cam lobes need to be 180 degrees (opposite side) of the valve buckets or rockers depending on what it has for the valve to be closed. No interference will happen with the piston 90 degrees from TDC, unless it has more than 4 cylinders. You can check it with a long rod down the plug hole.

Also look for excess gap between the cam lobe and the bucket-rocker or whatever transfers the lobes force to the valve stem. Sure sign of a bent valve.

On a quarter million mile VW, do yourself a favor and junk it, like you posted already.

Last edited by Old Mechanic; 07-12-2019 at 07:05 PM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 07-12-2019, 07:16 PM
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Ask Scotty Kilmer, he'd probably say get ride of it.
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 10:05 AM
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Cool

I have a 2006 A4 Audi with the 2.0T engine. That is an interference engine. It is not all that uncommon to repair valve damage and be back in business. And I've heard of guys "getting lucky" and there was minimal damage. I have rebuilt/replaced valve trains on 4-cylinder engines before and it is not that big a deal. (I'm a shade-tree mechanic that owns torque wrenches so I'm an expert right? Haha.) With that engine position the cylinder head is easy to get at. If needed I'm sure you can find a rebuilt head locally for a few hundred bucks. Make it a father-son project.
Best of luck, Haya....
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post #5 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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OK, thanks for your responses, guys. I just got off a long phone conversation with my friend. I told him what I thought and also quoted all three of you above. He'll let me know what he's going to do.

.



2004 Corolla LE 375K+ miles.
1987 Toyota Pickup base, 4spd 162K+ miles.
1996 Toyota Camry LE I4 (son's car) 230K+ kilometers.
2010 Toyota Camry LE I4 (mother's car). 162K+ miles.



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post #6 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 12:21 PM
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Is your friend Internet literate?

There might be takers here:


vwvortex.com
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by got-rice View Post
Is your friend Internet literate?

There might be takers here:


vwvortex.com
Will pass that along, thanks.

.



2004 Corolla LE 375K+ miles.
1987 Toyota Pickup base, 4spd 162K+ miles.
1996 Toyota Camry LE I4 (son's car) 230K+ kilometers.
2010 Toyota Camry LE I4 (mother's car). 162K+ miles.



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post #8 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 01:46 PM
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I'm with your original opinion... but I would have told him to sell it and get a Toyota or Honda long before it reached 251k
But in all probability, from an economic standpoint, particularly if a DIY is not an option and he is at the mercy of a mechanic (sounds like it), that engine is a boat anchor.

-- Rich

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post #9 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got-rice View Post
Is your friend Internet literate?

There might be takers here:


vwvortex.com
Ditto on vortex. I'm there every day since I have a Passat. Good forum.
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Anthony View Post
Will pass that along, thanks.
It's a shame because had that belt been maintained that engine would probably still be running just fine.
The 2.0 is a good engine.

Good luck with whatever is decided.

BTW, I love my Passat.....
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 08:00 PM
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Since the car might be worth around $200 to a junkyard (if even that), maybe remove the head and inspect. Put on an old junkyard head is among the suggestions. But verify the claim first and see if any damage is confined to the head. Yeah, start looking for a Toyota or Honda.

One thread which I couldn't find now suggested turning the crank up to 90 degrees and air up each cylinder with the valves closed (cam lobes pointing up) and see if the cylinder holds air. Parts might be $200-300. One guy had bent valves on Wolfsburg replaced for $500:
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ing-Belt-Broke

Yeah, plenty on VWVortex:

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...es-likely-bent

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...en-timing-belt

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...en-Timing-Belt
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 08:29 PM
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But what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Hows the trans, clutch, ball joints, control arm bushings, brakes, rust, dents, etc?
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
But what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Hows the trans, clutch, ball joints, control arm bushings, brakes, rust, dents, etc?
I know the A/C is iffy, and this is Texas. Not sure about the rest. I'll find out.

.



2004 Corolla LE 375K+ miles.
1987 Toyota Pickup base, 4spd 162K+ miles.
1996 Toyota Camry LE I4 (son's car) 230K+ kilometers.
2010 Toyota Camry LE I4 (mother's car). 162K+ miles.



"There's always free cheese in a mousetrap."
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-13-2019, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bitter View Post
But what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Hows the trans, clutch, ball joints, control arm bushings, brakes, rust, dents, etc?
My friend answered your question above:

"FYI body and interior still good. But other parts definitely feeling their age and probably on borrowed time.

Other known issues before this happened:
1. Cold start miss fire cyl 4, never corrected, carbon build up
2. Slow oil leak on back of block
3. A/C not cold, cool at lower temps outside [not cool when very hot ouside]

And I could list more."

.



2004 Corolla LE 375K+ miles.
1987 Toyota Pickup base, 4spd 162K+ miles.
1996 Toyota Camry LE I4 (son's car) 230K+ kilometers.
2010 Toyota Camry LE I4 (mother's car). 162K+ miles.



"There's always free cheese in a mousetrap."
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-14-2019, 12:29 AM
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So it sounds like maybe investing money in a different vehicle is a wiser path because once it's running again it's still got a lot of worn out parts and other issues? I ask about the ball joints and control arm bushings because those are common wear items and most people don't even notice until they're suddenly veering off to one side uncontrollably because one of the ball joints let go, if I recall correctly it has 8 ball joints in the front and any one of them letting go means that wheel has no steering and you just go where it goes. I watched that happen on the street behind the shop, dude slammed into the side of the same car like 4 or 5 times.
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