89 V6 No Start. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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89 V6 No Start.

Hello, trying to get an 89 V6 4x4 started. It will turn over it seems but will not start. Before it quit it would run very rough at times & became progressively harder to start. Then it finally will not start. First thought is the pump finally died.

So how do I check the fuel pump on these? Exactly where do I spray the starting fluid? Also any other little tricks I should know? I am a Jeep guy. I do love toyota's but never had my own to work on. This is my paw paw's truck.

Figure it couldn't hurt to come here & ask experts. I learned so much about Jeeps over at cherokeeforum. Any questions I can answer to help you, help me, I will. THANK YOU.
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post #2 of 19 Old 04-11-2019, 07:54 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

How many miles on yer vehicle? Any issues prior to this issue? Any maintenance performed prior to this issue? I take it that yer engine is fuel injected? If it's fuel injected, have you been running the fuel tank low? Have you inspected the fuel tank fer any rust issues? Do any of yer grounds have any rust issues?

To isolate whether or not it's a fuel delivery issue or not, you'll need to spray some starter fluid into the intake system. I usually pull the brake booster hose off of the air plenum/intake manifold and spray about 3 seconds worth. Put the hose back on and crank it. If it fires and sputters out, then it's a fuel delivery issue. It could be the fuel pump or fuel filter. The usual test is to check the fuel pressure but yer gonna need a special adapter to tap into the fuel line/rail since Toyota didn't install any test ports on the fuel rail. There's another test using a jumper to manually send power to the fuel pump so you can hear or feel the tank fer vibration.

Have you checked the EFI fuse to make sure it's still good?

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, dual oil catch jars, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block, aero single wheel trailer
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-12-2019, 12:22 PM
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Fuel pump check...
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...CheckConnector
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...shtml#FuelPump

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, dual oil catch jars, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block, aero single wheel trailer

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post #4 of 19 Old 04-13-2019, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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So just to be extra sure. I need to pull the yellow hose at the intake & spray the starting fluid into the intake? Thank you, again. Since this ain't my truck I'm being extra careful. I know somebody one time who sprayed a lot of starting fluid into the wrong place & tried to crank a truck. It backfired so hard it broke the timing chain cover.....and no it really wasn't me HAHA.
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-13-2019, 02:39 PM
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Yes, that would be a good spot.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, dual oil catch jars, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block, aero single wheel trailer
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-15-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I sprayed starter fluid 3 times into that spot on the intake. I reckon I sprayed it fine....HAHA. The truck just does the same thing. Turns over & over. Didn't even sputter like ut wanted to start.

So now I'm thinking it is not getting spark which points to distributor cap, ignition coil, etc.

My paw paw just told me that it hasn't had a distributor cap put on in 19 years! Any other advice & ways to trouble shoot appreciated.

Would a worn out distributor, ignition coil cause one to run rough before it completely quit?

I know a lot of this stuff is pretty common knowledge, but once again, sinece this ain't ny truck I am going very slow & asking even the most basic of questions.

If it was a Jeep I'd be much more comfortable.

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post #7 of 19 Old 04-15-2019, 08:09 PM
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Now that we've isolated it to an ignition issue, we can start trying to figure out what's not working.

Pull the distributor cap off and take a piccie of it and the rotor. I'm curious on the condition of either one. Since the vehicle hasn't had the cap and rotor replaced in the past 19 years, what condition are the spark plug wires? Same goes fer the spark plugs. It's probably worth yer time to just do a standard tune up and git all those unknowns out of the way. It's just probably something simple as a tune up.

You could probably git a spark tester from the parts store or Harbor Freight. They are usually under $10. It will give you a good indication on whether or not you have a good spark or not. You want to see a nice blue spark and not some orangish spark.
https://www.harborfreight.com/90-in-...ker-63593.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/In-Lin...ker-63590.html

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post #8 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Now that we've isolated it to an ignition issue, we can start trying to figure out what's not working. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Pull the distributor cap off and take a piccie of it and the rotor. I'm curious on the condition of either one. Since the vehicle hasn't had the cap and rotor replaced in the past 19 years, what condition are the spark plug wires? Same goes fer the spark plugs. It's probably worth yer time to just do a standard tune up and git all those unknowns out of the way. It's just probably something simple as a tune up. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

You could probably git a spark tester from the parts store or Harbor Freight. They are usually under $10. It will give you a good indication on whether or not you have a good spark or not. You want to see a nice blue spark and not some orangish spark. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
https://www.harborfreight.com/90-in-...ker-63593.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/In-Lin...ker-63590.html
The wires and plugs are not that old. About 2 years.

BUT...

I pulled the distributor cap & rotor. The cap points had rusted completely as well as the rotor button end. Put a new ones on & same.

BUT....

The rotor button does not spin when trying to be cranked. It also has a real fast crank & I know the exact moment that started happening.

SO....

I know I have two signs of a broke timing belt plus the way it was running so rough before (bad idle, misfires) Do these 3.0 engines do damage if they break? Or could it be something else? Thank you again.

Last edited by Chick-N-Picker; 04-22-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 04-22-2019, 06:41 PM
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I believe that the 3vze engine is a non-interference engine...that is when the timing belt breaks, any extended valves should not hit the pistons.
https://www.yotashop.com/interferanc...erance-engine/

Since the distributor is geared to the camshaft and the camshaft is turned by the timing belt and you got a fast crank...I would concur that there's a good chance the timing belt is broken. You can pull the timing belt cover off to confirm this.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, dual oil catch jars, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block, aero single wheel trailer

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post #10 of 19 Old 04-23-2019, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
I believe that the 3vze engine is a non-interference engine...that is when the timing belt breaks, any extended valves should not hit the pistons. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
https://www.yotashop.com/interferanc...erance-engine/

Since the distributor is geared to the camshaft and the camshaft is turned by the timing belt and you got a fast crank...I would concur that there's a good chance the timing belt is broken. You can pull the timing belt cover off to confirm this. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
OK. Removed the top line of bolts off the cover and peaked in with a flashlight. YEP, timing belt is completely worn out. Shredding & flat with chunks missing.

I just watched a very good 2 part video on YT of a 94 Runner. How much difference would it be for an 89 truck. This truck doesn't have an AC compressor I don't think, by the way.

But if it is like the video I am pretty certain I can do this......
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post #11 of 19 Old 04-24-2019, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
I believe that the 3vze engine is a non-interference engine...that is when the timing belt breaks, any extended valves should not hit the pistons.
https://www.yotashop.com/interferanc...erance-engine/

Since the distributor is geared to the camshaft and the camshaft is turned by the timing belt and you got a fast crank...I would concur that there's a good chance the timing belt is broken. You can pull the timing belt cover off to confirm this.
Nope, 3.0 -OH NO! engine is interference. I would remove the belt, then the cams, then do a leak down to see if any valves are bent.
If so, you have to decide how in love with the thing your are. Maybe better off looking for a later model with a 3.4 V6. The best truck engine Toyota has made to date!
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post #12 of 19 Old 04-24-2019, 03:14 PM
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Nope, 3.0 -OH NO! engine is interference. I would remove the belt, then the cams, then do a leak down to see if any valves are bent.
If so, you have to decide how in love with the thing your are. Maybe better off looking for a later model with a 3.4 V6. The best truck engine Toyota has made to date!
All of the information/mechanics who've worked on the 3vze engine state that it is a non-interference motor like the 5vzfe engine.
One example: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=55033.0

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post #13 of 19 Old 04-24-2019, 04:05 PM
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All of the information/mechanics who've worked on the 3vze engine state that it is a non-interference motor like the 5vzfe engine.
One example: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=55033.0
Ditto, the 3vze engine is a non-interference engine!
The Texas Guru is correct

Last edited by sdspeed; 04-24-2019 at 04:08 PM.
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post #14 of 19 Old 04-27-2019, 04:55 AM
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Guess I was wrong about the 3.0 being an interference engine. I will however, stand by my opinion that it sucks though.
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post #15 of 19 Old 04-30-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, 3.0 -OH NO! engine is interference. I would remove the belt, then the cams, then do a leak down to see if any valves are bent.
If so, you have to decide how in love with the thing your are. Maybe better off looking for a later model with a 3.4 V6. The best truck engine Toyota has made to date!
All of the information/mechanics who've worked on the 3vze engine state that it is a non-interference motor like the 5vzfe engine. <img src="https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />
One example: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=55033.0
Ok started doing everything today. I was going by a 2 part Youtube video And so far all was good until I had to set the bottom cam shaft in time to the 0. On his video he does this right after removing the power steering pump bracket piece.

He then goes on to remove cam shaft pully and lower timing chain cover.

However I gueds since my timing belt is shredded and broke when I turned the lower cam shaft bolt to 0 it did not set the passenger side gear in time with the mark. The driver side was already correct. So I tried to turn the passenger side in time but it just springs back...I reckon y'all know what I mean.

So do I need to try to turn that lower cam back off of zero to about where it was? Or all a the way around to about where it was. Basically just need to know what now. Hope I didn't just screw up.

If anybody is curious as to what video and what he says to do....you can fast forward to about 6:35

https://youtu.be/SoAaa6XKPCY
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