1992 pickup 3.0 missfire? smoke? cylinder1? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-17-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 1992 pickup 3.0 missfire? smoke? cylinder1?

so... this winter i rolled my truck nothing got damaged*cosmetically or internally just oil reached the head so i pulled the plugs disconnected spark and fuel and cranked it and blew all the oil out. good? installed new plugs (without new wires) put the air box assemble back together and turn the key.. Alright!! fired right up smoked like a son of a gun for a day or 2. that was about 5 months ago. truck ran mint... until today started it for work this morning no problem. got to work no problem. went to go leave work... problem. i turned the key and it fired right* up but.. it was definitely missing. so i said oh cmon why you missing as i revved it up the miss went away so i was like must just be a tiny hiccup no biggie.* got home about 10 miles from work. and back into my driveway and let it idle and it started missing again.. so i turn it off. parking brake dont work and my driveway is slanted so i hop out and get my wheel chalk so i can have it idle in neutral in my yard while im under the hood looking for anything... start it back up and smoke just barrels out of exhaust pipe so i turn it of first thought is to*check plugs. i*go to check plug on cylinder #3 first..why #3? idk just did.*and the wire rips right out of the plug cap on the wire*so so now the metal clip is still on plug wire unattached. great. now its guaranteed i need new wires. whatever go to pull plug on cylinder 3 its good nothing looks abnormal.i replace plug anyways. moving*on to cylinder 1 and pull the cap off plug. no problem.. then i*remove number 1 plug and**uhoh it looks fouled... has oil on it. now curious..i replaced the plug. long story condensed a little i*changed all the plugs and put new wires on.. cross my fingers its good. finally go to start back up and hey running good. at least for a bit. went for about a mile test ride and about half way through it started missing again. get back home and let it idle in nuetral its*missing and its smoking a lot. rev it up to 3,000 rpm and the miss goes away and smoke goes away. let off gas and starts missing and starts smoking.. every once and a while if i rev it up and let it*go back to an idle it wont miss or smoke. feed it a tiny tiny bit of throttle and it starts to miss and smoke again. if i hold it at or above 3000 its good once below no good. have not pulled plug number 1 again yet but im guessing it fouled again? i have no check engine light either it never came one once. seems if you try to put a load on engine very slightly it will miss as well as letting off slowly it will miss. but if you just tromp on it to 3500 or so it wont miss. i know this all lot to understand so please if anyone has any question on what im talking about let me know so i can try to clarify myself.**a little more back ground on the truck about 20,000 miles ago the 1,3,5 side of engine was redone. burnt valve so that side is technically new? and now again trouble over there. but before when the valve was burnt i drove it and there would be no smoke... just no power... someone please give me some good answers. thank you in advance for taking the time to read all this. but need help! smoke does not smell like burning oil.. seems to smell rich will unburnt fuel make white smoke?
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post #2 of 6 Old 05-17-2019, 11:46 PM
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I hope you'll forgive my paring it down to its bare essence.

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Originally Posted by Trick30 View Post
. . . and smoke just barrels out of exhaust pipe . . . #1 plug ... looks fouled . . . smoke does not smell like burning oil.. seems to smell rich will unburnt fuel make white smoke?
Yes, white smoke is usually fuel, except when it's steam. A few things you might try to get a better idea what's going on.

Remove the oil filler cap and feel for air or smoke coming out of the crankcase. Look at the oil on the bottom of the filler cap. Does it look like clean oil, or does it look milky like an oil-water emulsion?

Inspect your coolant for any signs of oil or bubbles coming out of the coolant.

Check the compression. Are all cylinders approximately (10%) equal?

You might also measure fuel pressure and test the fuel injectors.

The ignition system doesn't cause massive clouds of smoke, so it's probably safe to assume it's not your problem.

Last edited by Wekadog; 05-17-2019 at 11:48 PM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-19-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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I hope you'll forgive my paring it down to its bare essence.

*unfortunately the weather is not working in my favor right now and i dont exactly have a garage.. i have not been able to do a complete compression test yet... but. what*i think is happening is*the head gasket failed between the coolant port and cylinder one which is causing the coolant to enter the cylinder and cause the miss which is also causing the smoke. i just started it quickly and it was not missing but it was smoking so maybe the plug wasnt fouling but indeed burning the coolant causing the smoke. so what i did was topped off radiator and left the cap off. disconnected the efi system and spark turned the key over and cranked it to see if i could see maybe hear or see bubbles from the compression leaking back into the radiator? im guessing because the water pump is driven with the timing belt it shot a little bit of coolant up and out of radiator but i cranked to the point it wasnt overflowing anymore and stop cranking quickly running and putting my ear up to the radiator fill hole and i can hear bubbling. the engine is not hot what so ever so its not a boiling type of bubbling. its about 40 degrees right now. so could the bubbles that im hearing actually be the compression from the cylinders leaking back into the radiator and be trying to escape out through the cap? it all seems like thats what would be happening but then again im not to sure if thats a possibility.*

*thanks for your input tho. i am not trying to avoid your suggestions in any way just saying i appreciate ur feedback because i do not have a compression tester. but my next test i think is to try and pressurize the radiator and see if i can get the opposite effect. pull the #1 spark plug rotate crank by hand so piston is near top and see if i can get coolant to enter the cylinder that i can see through plug hole? tell me thats a way of checking? i also dont have my hands on a radiator pressurizer or compression tester... yet.... o o oreillies has one to rent for like 150ish a piece to borrow.

thanks again will update with progress asap
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-19-2019, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trick30 View Post
. . . what*i think is happening is*the head gasket failed between the coolant port and cylinder one which is causing the coolant to enter the cylinder and cause the miss which is also causing the smoke . . . disconnected the efi system and spark turned the key over and cranked it to see if i could see maybe hear or see bubbles . . . compression from the cylinders leaking back into the radiator and be trying to escape out through the cap? it all seems like thats what would be happening but then again im not to sure if thats a possibility. . . . see if i can get coolant to enter the cylinder that i can see through plug hole? tell me thats a way of checking? i also dont have my hands on a radiator pressurizer or compression tester... yet.... o o oreillies has one to rent for like 150ish a piece . . .
A blown head gasket is something you should certainly consider. Steam exhaust should smell like antifreeze rather than gasoline, but there can be more than one thing going on.

No need to disable the ignition and test while cranking. Go ahead and idle the engine while looking for bubbles in the surge tank. If pressure is blowing into the radiator through a blown head gasket, radiator pressure will rise and the excess pressure will exit through the pressure relief cap into the surge tank.

A simple compression gauge is cheap. They go for under $15 on eBay. If you can borrow one from O'Riley, that's great. But it won't break you to buy one.

I think a pressure test on the radiator is a very good idea. Again, if you can borrow the test set for free, that's the way to go. I personally just solder a Schrader valve and a pressure gauge to a bit of old copper pipe and connect it via the heater hoses. If you pump the cooling system to 15 psi, it should hold that pressure all day. If the pressure drops, it's leaking somewhere. Could be the head gasket.

If compression is low, and the cooling system leaks pressure, it may be time to pull the head.

Last edited by Wekadog; 05-19-2019 at 10:43 PM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-10-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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so here is what i figured out so far. if i put cylinder 1 at tdc and put air into that cylinder and i can hear bubbles in the radiator, also there is a what seems to be a bolt leaking as well. the bolt is directly under the intake manifold on top of the engine. the bolt goes downward its like right behind that plastic timing cover.
so im assuming that the head gasket is bad. can anyone give me some pointer of what to do and what not to do when it comes to pulling it all apart to change that headgasket. i assuming i just have to tear down till i get there and remember how to put it all back. what do i look for on my path of removing everything? what will i all need to do this process. parts?torque specs? just instructions in general... thanks for the help everyone!
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-10-2019, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trick30 View Post
. . . cylinder 1 at tdc and put air into that cylinder and i can hear bubbles in the radiator . . . so im assuming that the head gasket is bad . . .
Just curious how much pressure you applied? I would have expected the engine to turn with pressure in the combustion chamber. And I still think it's worth checking the compression. It's quick and inexpensive, and it will confirm your diagnosis.

But yes, it does sound like a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Either way, the head will have to come off.

I can't offer specific instructions, but it will be worth your time trying to find a factory service manual.
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