93 toyota pickup -- failed smog in CA - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-09-2013, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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93 toyota pickup -- failed smog in CA

All,
I got a 1993 Toyota Pickup, approximately 200K miles. I failed a smog test here in California. Barely passed the 15 MPH test, but failed on the 25 MPH test. The smog guy told me that my CAT is good, but that the truck needs a tune-up. I replaced CAP, ROTOR, and Spark Plugs with Toyota parts. Connecting T and E1 on the data connector, I timed the truck to 5 Deg , and the idle is set at 750. I checked the compression, getting 165, 165, 165, 163 with 163 on cylinder #4.

15 mph 2736 RPM %CO2 (13.0) %O2 (2.2) HC (95)(Max 95) CO% (.53) (Max .53) NO (164) (Max 552) PASSED

25 mph 2636 RPM %CO2 (13.0) %O2 (2.2) HC (88)(Max 60) CO% (.38) (Max .63) NO (159) (Max 805) FAILED

At 15 mph I barely passed, but on the 25 mph I failed high HC and moderate CO.

I'm thinking that I'm getting too much fuel, maybe my cold start is stuck or I have injector issues, too much fuel.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-10-2013, 12:14 AM
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Try using some BG products 44k fuel injector cleaner and see if that makes a difference.
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post #3 of 18 Old 04-10-2013, 12:32 AM
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How old is the O2 sensor ?

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post #4 of 18 Old 04-10-2013, 06:36 AM
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I doubt it's a 'running' or sensor problem like overfueling. HC is up but CO is normal and O2 is above zero. It's not that there is too much HC but that some isn't being burned and oil doesn't burn well or completely in a gas engine. Most likely the engine is burning just a little oil. Not a problem or anything to worry about, just normal age based wear and tear. If I had to guess, I'd say valve stem seals. You aren't losing enough to have to worry about oil level or smell (especially with a cat) but enough to throw the emissions. My truck certainly burns some oil, without a cat you can smell it. I go 5k miles with 5w20 synthetic and lose less than half a qt.

A maybe temp fix would be to go out on the hardest fasted freeway drive you can for 20-30 mins with as little time between that and the emissions test. The idea being that the hotter the cat is, the better it works.

long term bandaid/cheap/easy solution would be to switch to a high-mileage oil. It has additives that soften and swell seals, thus reducing oil leaks. You'll need to do an oil change and give it a few days to work. The only downside is if you go back, oil leaks will be worse when the seals shrink back down again.

Long term fix would be replacing the valve stem seals. on the 22R they aren't that hard (relatively speaking I mean...try it on a 7M or anything else with buckets/shims)

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post #5 of 18 Old 04-11-2013, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Kamesama980,

yes, the smog guy told me to change the plugs, cap, rotor, give the truck an oil change, and to drive it hard right before the test.
One thing that I should mention, the truck is not my daily driver, so it is normally parked and used mainly to run errands to the home depot etc.
I installed a bolt on catalytic converter that I bought on the internet about 4-5 years ago, it is not the original, also I bought some really cheap oxygen sensors from a guy selling them on the internet. So the truck does not have Denso oxygen sensors. It has aftermarket sensors.
Also I haven't checked the PCV valve, and the valve cover does have oil spots near the PCV valve, I'm going to replace the PCV valve and grommet before the test.

I have until 4/30 or about 2 weeks to get this truck to pass the test.
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post #6 of 18 Old 04-11-2013, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, I forgot to mention, I did run some fuel cleaner through the gas tank. I was thinking of using some seafoam in the oil, half in the oil and half in the tank, running the truck for about 100 miles, then getting the oil changed before the test.
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-11-2013, 05:24 AM
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using seafoam in the oil 'cleans out' the crankcase and oil passages. might clean out the deposits that are plugging the leaks. Sort of like using synthetic on an older engine that's only seen conventional: it cleans out the deposits and it starts leaking oil so people say synthetic causes leaks. What I'm saying is I wouldn't recommend using seafoam in the oil right before the test.

Ignition stuff might help might not.

Yes, check the PCV system (both hoses) that they're clear and the valve is functional.

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post #8 of 18 Old 04-11-2013, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Ok,
I replaced the PCV valve and grommet. I also filled up with 91 gas, as I'm getting ready to get it smogged this weekend. I plan not to use the seafoam, but I will get the oil changed tomorrow morning.

I checked the idle RPM and it was a little high. It was around 820, the specs call for 750. I set it before but with the T and E1 connected. I'm using a digital meter to check the RPMs at idle. Do I check the idle RPMs with the T and E1 connected or is that just to set the timing?

Also would a loose timing chain cause a slight miss during idle? I think I'm getting the dreaded timing chain slap on start up. would a sloppy chain cause the emissions to go bad?

Last edited by reezytercel; 04-11-2013 at 07:38 PM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 04-15-2013, 07:46 AM
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About the chain: yes and yes. If the engine's not mechanically sound, all the electronics in the world won't help.

Set idle with T and E1 shorted IIRC.

Changing the oil won't help unless you use the high mileage stop leak stuff (in which case you need to keep using it or they'll come back worse.)

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post #10 of 18 Old 04-21-2013, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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All,


I did a retest and here are the results. My truck failed, and the smog guy thinks that I have leaking injectors.



First Attempt


15 mph 2736 RPM %CO2 (Meas 13.0) %O2 (Meas 2.2) HC (Max 95 Ave 38 Meas 95) CO% (Max 0.53 Ave 0.08 Meas 0.53) NO (Max 552 Ave 97 Meas 164) PASS

25 mph 2626 RPM %CO2 (Meas 13.0) %O2 (Meas 2.3) HC (Max 60 Ave 24 Meas 88) CO% (Max 0.63 Ave 0.09 Meas 0.38) NO (Max 805 Ave 120 Meas 159) FAILED




Second Attempt


15 mph 2712 RPM %CO2 (Meas 13.9) %O2 (Meas 1.1) HC (Max 95 Ave 38 Meas 95) CO% (Max 0.53 Ave 0.08 Meas 0.40) NO (Max 552 Ave 97 Meas 151) PASSED

25 mph 2559 RPM %CO2 (Meas 13.8) %O2 (Meas 1.1) HC (Max 60 Ave 24 Meas 83) CO% (Max 0.63 Ave 0.09 Meas 0.32) NO (Max 805 Ave 120 Meas 119) FAILED


The smog guy said that all the numbers indicate that the truck has good combustion but that it is not burning all the fuel. Again he thinks that I have leaking injectors. I asked if new O2 sensors would make a difference, he said no, that the car is injecting more fuel then needed.

I'm getting ready to send my injectors off for cleaning, like first thing tomorrow morning.

Any suggestions?
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-21-2013, 04:40 PM
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Not sure I understand why the smog guy is suggesting you have leaking injectors. I would think if your injectors were leaking you'd have failed emissions at both 15 mph and 25 mph.

I think it's more likely it's running rich because the O2 sensor is not passing on the correct information, your TPS is not working correctly, or your aftermarket catalytic converter is not doing a good enough job.
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-27-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Third Attempt -- Still No Pass on Smog -- chasing high HC

All,

I had all my injectors ultra-sonic cleaned and rebuilt. The injector cleaning guy noted that injector #1 had what he called "erratic in Pre-Test, OK after cleaning and in Final Test". My injectors went from a 17.6% mismatch down to 2.4% matched set after cleaning. I had two injectors with POOR Spray and two with FAIR Spray. After the cleaning, all injectors had GOOD spray patterns. The auto-test portion of the cleaning went from 600 to 10,000 RPM, and the shop that did the work even did a Stress Test up to 20,000 RPM. Also my COLD START injector was tested and noted as GOOD. The pretest Auto Test Flow averaged 18.2 ml, and Full Flow was 49.1 ml. After the injector cleaning, the Auto Test Flow went up to 20.6 ml and the Full Flow went up to 52.9 ml. So the injectors are flowing more gas after the cleaning.

So after this, the truck seems to run a-lot more smoother, but I still FAILED, this time I Failed on both the 15 and 25 MPH portion of the test.

Here are the results:

THIRD ATTEMPT

15 mph 1623 RPM %CO2 (Meas 14.2) %O2 (Meas .7) HC (Max 95 Ave 38 Meas 111) CO% (Max 0.53 Ave 0.08 Meas 0.28) NO (Max 552 Ave 97 Meas 150) FAILED

25 mph 2617 RPM %CO2 (Meas 14.3) %O2 (Meas .7) HC (Max 60 Ave 24 Meas 67) CO% (Max 0.63 Ave 0.09 Meas 0.12) NO (Max 805 Ave 120 Meas 85) FAILED

My third attempt I now am failing on the 15 MPH, but I also noticed that the RPMs went down to 1623 as the two 15 MPH tests had the RPM at 2736 and 2712.

Can anyone help me with this?

I'm ready to go out and purchase two new Denso O2 sensors as I just can't figure out why I'm getting too much HC.
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-28-2013, 12:13 AM
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Only the 1st O2 sensor impacts the air to fuel ratio. The 2nd O2 sensor's job is to make sure the catalytic converter is working.

How many miles did you drive with the cleaned injectors before taking the emissions test? Did you reset your ECU after installing the injectors? What kind of transmission do you have?
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-28-2013, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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I drove the truck about 15-20 miles on the freeway.

I didn't reset the ECU after installing the injectors, only removed the negative at the battery.

I have a manual 5-speed transmission.

thanks for your response.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-28-2013, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reezytercel View Post
I drove the truck about 15-20 miles on the freeway.

I didn't reset the ECU after installing the injectors, only removed the negative at the battery.

I have a manual 5-speed transmission.

thanks for your response.
Disconnecting the battery terminal has the same effect as resetting the ECU. The drive on the freeway should have allowed for everything to get back in sync again.

For what ever reason sounds like they used a different gear on this 3rd test.
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