1974 Hilux Starting and then Stalling... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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1974 Hilux Starting and then Stalling...

Hi Guys,

I'm new to this forum and pretty new to truck repair, but am anxious to get working on my Hilux! I purchased the truck a few years ago and when I acquired it it was in good running condition with no noticeable issues. We purchased a house a few years ago, so most of my free time has gone to repairs on that and the truck has been a little neglected. Every summer I would start it up, let it run and drive it around the lawn with no issues, but this Spring it's acting a little weird....

The Issue:

Lately when I start the truck it takes a few cranks to get going, but then idles fine for a while, then stalls. Initially there was just hesitation when I'd give it gas, but now it stalls within 10 seconds of turning over. The only thing I really did since the change has occurred was remove the air filter housing and clean up the engine compartment a bit.

What I have Tried:

Since the issue arose, I have tried a few things, but don't want to end up making things worse. I took the air filter housing completely off and looked at the carb a little. I'm not really sure what I'm looking for, but suspect this has something to do with it. I don't want to mess around with the idle screws too much until I can hopefully pinpoint the issue.

What I plan on trying:

I plan on changing the engine oil filter (it's been a while...), changing the engine oil, installing a new air filter... I also plan on checking the compression.

Advice? I'm hoping you guys have some good tips and it's a relatively easy fix, but I'm willing to put in the time if it's something harder, I really love this truck and would hate to think I destroyed such a tough truck! I have the Chilton Manual, which is very helpful, but anything more specific or ides of what might be the issue would really be appreciated!

Thanks in Advance!
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post #2 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 06:53 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

Did you use any gas additive like Sta-bil? Are you using ethanol free gas? If not, then you probably have some issues with the carb (stuck needles, sticking floats, gum/varnish) inside the carb. You could try something like BG 44K and see if it will clear up yer issues or not. How good is yer fuel filter? I guess you have a manual fuel pump? Have you checked to see if it's working correctly? Any gas squirting out of any orifices?

Have you carefully inspected any of the wiring harnesses to see if any critters might have gone to town on the wires?

Pull the plugs and inspect them carefully. Same goes fer the wires, cap, and rotor. Snap some piccies and post them.

Have you carefully inspected the fuses to make sure everything is good? A simple test light will be immeasurable to diagnose many electrical issues. You can git one fer less than $10.
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post #3 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, thanks for the quickn response! It’s amazing how’s fast you can get help on a 45 year old truck! I’ll try what you suggested! I also added a few photos, let me know if you see any red flags!
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post #4 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 08:20 PM
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I agree that an undriven engine will usually develop problems due to a gummed up carb. If driving it a bit with a fuel additive doesn't straighten out the problem, you might need to disassemble the carb for a thorough cleaning. A clogged slow jet is very common, and will cause exactly that problem.

You might also want to inspect all your vacuum hoses and discard any that show any cracking on the ends. Rubber and plastic parts do deteriorate with time.
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post #5 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 09:51 PM
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18R-C...haven't seen those fer some time now.

What's the black wire hanging over the intake/exhaust manifolds? What is it connected to? Is it resting on the manifolds? Have you checked its condition?

That fuel filter seems like it's seen better days. Might be worth to change it out.

Could you snap some piccies of the carburetor throat with the butterflies open? Thanks!

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post #6 of 33 Old 05-01-2019, 11:04 PM
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Maybe when you reinstalled the air filter housing you didn't connect the hose that leads from housing to a fitting on the engine? Or the vacuum hoses were misrouted?

Many things need to be set up right in order for the 18R-C to run well; i.e. the carburetor and its automatic choke mechanism (every once in awhile a rebuilt carb will appear on ebay) must be in factory original working order, the correct spark plugs with a .031" gap, points in unburned, unpitted condition with the point dwell set to the factory spec (52 degrees), ignition timing set to spec, engine intake and exhaust clearances set to spec. No exhaust manifold gasket leaks or cracks in the cast iron manifold. And all this assumes the compression on all 4 cylinders is up around 150-165.

A '74 could also be a money pit because of the unavailability of parts needed to correct faults that occur from time to time with the starting, ignition, fuel and cooling systems, the brake and clutch hydraulics and so forth.
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post #7 of 33 Old 05-02-2019, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for all the responses, I already ordered some fuel stabilizer and it’s on it’s way. I’ll give that a shot first but if that doesn’t work I’ll check the fuel filter, etc. attached are a few pics of the carb, let me know if any issues stand out!
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post #8 of 33 Old 05-02-2019, 06:36 AM
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How old is the gas? Might be just that since those old cars don't have sealed vapor recovery systems that keep the moisture out of the fuel tank. I generally drain the fuel before a year has passed and pour it in another tank at less than 10% by volume. Cheaper than paying someone to take it away and never had any problem with the "victim LOL" vehicle.
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post #9 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys,

So I added GK 44K to the gas and added fresh gas hoping this would be the fix,, no luck, and the problem seemed to get worse.

So I took the carburetor off and checked it out, seemed to be functioning ok, nothing sticking, etc...

I put the carburetor back on and now the truck won’t even turn over. 🏼

One thing I noticed that thought could be part of the problem was the gas line. I Disconnected the gas line and tried to start the truck to see if any gas would shoot out the hole, nothing came out. Would gas come out of the truck didn’t turn over? Could this be a problem with the fuel pump? Could this be associated with the previous issue? Is a fuel pump pretty easy to replace?

Sorry if these are pretty simple questions, I’m new to all this and it’s pretty complicated! Thanks for any advice!
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post #10 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 04:58 PM
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Did a quick search on "fuel pump" in eBay and you have a mechanical fuel pump, and no, it won't push any fuel toward the carb until the engine turns over.

It's really easy to replace a mechanical fuel pump, just 2 bolts. One frustrator can be if the engine is stopped right where the lobe on interior engine goodies is where it's pushing the bent arm up... The spring on the bent arm is surprisingly strong. You just rotate the engine until lobe isn't pushing on the bent arm and the fuel pump settles into its machined mounting place without hassle.

You wouldn't be able to tell much about the carb's operations from the exterior. Back in the day, you could buy re-build kits with orifices, gaskets, float and float valve, needle valve(s) and the like, so you would disassemble the carb, clean out all the passages, put the new goodies in and button it back up. I see there are a couple of rebuild kits on eBay for the 74 Hilux.

HOWEVER, first, get the engine to turn over. Might be just a battery or a charge that's needed.

Then, change the fuel filter.

If you can, empty the gas tank and refill with fresh gas.

To check the fuel pump, first identify it. It will be attached to the side of the engine.

Go to eBay and enter "74 hilux fuel pump" and look at the pictures. The part with the bent arm and spring goes into the side of the engine, the part that's kind of a round can with two fuel line connectors is what you see outside. To check flow, you take the fuel hose or line off the "out" orifice of the fuel pump. It looks as though you've pulled the rubber hose off the "in" orifice. There's no flow there.

Trace the fuel line back from the carb to the fuel pump -- that fuel line is the one you take off at the carb to see if gas is flowing into the carb.

You'll need full instructions on the carb rebuild, if a rebuild is what you need. Japanese carburetors in the 70s were precision instruments, like Swiss watches.

There's a "1974 Toyota Hilux Genuine OEM Repair Manual" on eBay. You don't want the truck brakes supplement or the overhaul engine book, you need the general book... I *think* - since the carb might be in the engine overhaul book. Check with the seller to see that the carburetor is in the book you're buying.

You're going to need that manual. Aftermarket ones (Haynes, Clymer, etc.) won't be enough for your adventures.

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post #11 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 06:24 PM
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4th picture (from the left) the fuel pump is the thing with the 2 circular "domes", one metal line coming out is also visible. You can remove it, stick it in fuel and manually move the arm to see if it works. It just needs fuel in the carb bowl to run for a short time. If you have spark and compression you can dump fuel in it and it will run but not that great. A paint gun can substitute for a carburetor for diagnostic purposes, but watch out for backfires then your paint gun is a blow torch. Blow a little pressure in the fuel tank (very little) and voila you have a fuel pump, like some of the old cars where they had to keep pressure in the tank.

If spark and compression are good then it has to be timing or fuel delivery. Does it still have points, if so then clean them and set the gap, preferably by the dwell reading. Hook a plug up and make her spark.
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post #12 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 06:26 PM
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Make sure you have compression and spark, or everything you are doing could be a huge waste of time. You can always get some fuel to it and make it run WITH COMPRESSION AND SPARK.
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post #13 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys thanks for the quick response! I’ll try that stuff with the fuel pump, hopefully that’s the key. Would that account for the issue where, after the truck sits all night it will start up and idle for about 10 seconds and then die. On next start up, idles 4 seconds, next 1 second, then nothin...

I opened the distributor cap and looked at the points, one wire is very trailed, barely connected. I’m worried to mess with anything in there though. Should I replace the wire? Is it just copper?

I’m just kind of baffled, it started up and idled great he first time
I started it this spring and now it won’t even turn over .

I have a compression test kit, can this still be done even if the truck won’t turn over?

Sorry again if these are simple, but it’s great to have the help from the forum! Saves me a lot of time! Thanks again
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post #14 of 33 Old 05-06-2019, 10:09 PM
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First of all, what do you mean it won't "turn over"? People use that term to mean different things.

If you mean it won't even crank, then stop what you're doing and troubleshoot that issue. Is there just no power to the starter? Does the starter engage, but it feels like something is jamming the engine?

There are lots of threads in this forum on tracking down starter problems. Here's one you can start with. The forum search tool will help you find others.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...n-t-start.html
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post #15 of 33 Old 05-07-2019, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Wekadog. When I turn the key the engine will crank, like normal, but the engine won't start. It's not silent or a clicking, it's a crank, but won't turn over. I checked the link you sent, and that issue was the battery, I usually disconnect the battery when I'm not driving, because I don't use the truck too often. Any other ideas on what it could be?

Thanks!
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