2004 Highlander Limited shaking - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Highlander 1st Generation (2001-2007) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 1st generation Toyota Highlanders.

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post #16 of 36 Old 05-30-2019, 05:11 PM
'98 Lexus LS400, '06 Toyota Highlander
 
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I wish I knew. If it is a solid rear axle, then I certainly would. I wouldn't expect to pay more than 2x a front alignment. Be sure to get a good precision alignment these mechanics aren't all the same. Meaning if a guy just turns the tie rod shafts in or out, then that is a backyard alignment. Really bad.

Last edited by Michael88; 05-30-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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post #17 of 36 Old 05-30-2019, 05:37 PM
'98 Lexus LS400, '06 Toyota Highlander
 
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Oh this hasn't been asked yet. Are the wheel lug nuts torqued? Believe it or not some guys forget to tighten them then let you drive off.
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post #18 of 36 Old 05-30-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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I hope all the nuts are tightened I did have the tires balanced and rotated after they put my new struts in. When I bring my car in tomorrow, what kind of things should I look for that would tell me they are legit and not a backyard mechanic? The place that put my struts in recommended them.
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post #19 of 36 Old 05-31-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well I got my front alignment. My sterling wheel is now straight, but it still shakes....more like a vibrate with a pulling sensation (almost like the parking brake is on, but I've released it a hundred times). It did it while going 30 and still did it while I increased my speed. I even threw it into neutral when it was doing it, but couldn't tell if it made a difference. I'm stumped, my mechanic is stumped. I mentioned rotars, calipers and transmission mount but he doesn't think it's any of those. I need suggestions or a good mechanic that works on Toyota's in the Minneapolis Minnesota area
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post #20 of 36 Old 06-02-2019, 10:46 AM
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Several people have mentioned hung up brakes as a possible cause. Have you gotten out and felt your wheels with your hand after you experienced the problem yet? If one is noticeably warmer than the others that could be your problem, even if it is not sticking very badly. Just as a reminder, the front wheels will be a bit warmer than the rears because they handle more of the braking, you need to compare side to side. Good luck!
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post #21 of 36 Old 06-02-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Every mechanic friend I have said it sounds like CV shaft. I did a video, but it was hard to tell (accept you could the water in my bottle shaking crazy in my console). I noticed that it starts in the front, but noticed that there was a vibration in the rear (I could hear it). Goes back in tomorrow
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post #22 of 36 Old 06-19-2019, 08:47 AM
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I would like to know what was causing the shaking....

96 Camry wagon 5SFE
05 Highlander 3MZ-FE
07 Civic SI
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-19-2019, 06:19 PM
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You probably want to bring it to another shop. Some places are stronger in some areas than others. You don't want places to be firing parts at it and spending your money.

Does it shake while accelerating, coasting, cruising, decel?

Loose lug nuts are usually accel and decel and would do it every time, not only after it warms up. Sway bar links don't cause vibrations.

Obviously this is something that changes with time, usually that is associated with heat. I agree that it could be a brake issue if you've got one sticking. You can usually feel the heat radiating from the rotor when this is the case, don't touch it. I usually use an infrared thermometer and the bad one is usually like 100* hotter than the others. It's noticable.

The shop could put a dial indicator on the rotors and easily see if there is lateral runout causing vibration.

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post #24 of 36 Old 06-20-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgeorge View Post
Several people have mentioned hung up brakes as a possible cause. Have you gotten out and felt your wheels with your hand after you experienced the problem yet? If one is noticeably warmer than the others that could be your problem, even if it is not sticking very badly. Just as a reminder, the front wheels will be a bit warmer than the rears because they handle more of the braking, you need to compare side to side. Good luck!
I did check that, didn't notice a difference. As of today.....(6/20), it's at the Toyota service center
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post #25 of 36 Old 06-20-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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It's at a Toyota service center right now. I figure there mechanics should know something about the cars they sell, then a small repair shop. I have a deluxe extended warranty that pretty much covers everything. My 4 new struts only cost me a $100 deductible. When I first start driving it's normal, after about 6-8 blocks it will start to shake/vibrate whether I'm doing 20mph or 50mph. It seems to shake less when I'm doing over 60mph. My nephew crawled under my vehicle and showed me how my CV axle (worse on passenger side then drivers) moves up and down. Guess I'll see what Toyota's mechanic finds tomorrow
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post #26 of 36 Old 06-20-2019, 09:37 PM
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Good. They should be able to get it straightened out. Let us know what they find!

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post #27 of 36 Old 06-23-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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So Toyota said the CV axle is fine and moving up and down is normal (?????). One back caliper gets hung up, but wasn't been they drove and checked (said they could tell by blue residue and something about piston) and the other is rusted. My warranty company will pay for the one, but not the rusted one. They wouldn't do the one caliper because my back rotors and pads are shot....they quoted me $1200...right, I'll watch YouTube and figure that out myself. They also said my rear axle seals are leaking. What would happen if I let that go??? They wanted $1200 for that too!!! Also said my timing belt needs to be replaced because it doesn't have a sticker indicating that it was done at 90,000 miles, another $1200 quoted. If my water pump goes out, then my warranty company would cover that. I just don't know what to believe anymore......UGH!!!
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post #28 of 36 Old 06-23-2019, 09:05 AM
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The rotors probably have blue sports or rings which means high heat. The piston may be seized. Before suggesting brake replacement I usually try to see if any of the parts are seized so we don't have to surprise the customer with more work. The piston is probably seized is what they may have said.

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post #29 of 36 Old 06-23-2019, 09:41 AM
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Here's a video on replacing a caliper from Chris Fix.


This was my first caliper change. I had changed brake pads and bled brake lines. Below is pasted from my thread on this forum but I can't seem to find it again. (can't figure out how to search for my posts?) I will keep looking.


Update - last week I put a reman oem caliper and a Wagner rotor on the left front and I bled only that brake line. That rotor had ridges from the caliper sticking. Yesterday, Sunday, I drove from northern CT to Brooklyn and back, about 260 miles and had no braking issues.
Yes, I did think about and read about replacing both calipers but I had never replaced a caliper before (I'm 74) and didn't read anything that said I "must" do so. I had replaced pads and rotors 12,000 mile ago. i put on snows with dedicated wheels each winter so I can get a good look at pad wear twice a year.

Replacing the caliper was not as messy as I expected. I did not pinch the brake line but I did fill the reservoir up over the max line and kept the cap on. I followed Crris Fixx on Youtube in that I didn't switch the brake line until after I had replaced the caliper. I did "brake"/loosen the banjo bolt before taking off the old caliper off the car. I found it interesting that the $8 oem washers were not copper and were joined together just like the ones I removed from the banjo bolt.
Thank you for your input.

96 Camry wagon 5SFE
05 Highlander 3MZ-FE
07 Civic SI
2019 MB GLC300 4matic
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post #30 of 36 Old 06-23-2019, 09:48 AM
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Here's my thread that may help you change the rotors.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...even-wear.html
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96 Camry wagon 5SFE
05 Highlander 3MZ-FE
07 Civic SI
2019 MB GLC300 4matic
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