Power Steering Fluid Leak - Page 2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Highlander 1st Generation (2001-2007) Forum dedicated to the discussion of 1st generation Toyota Highlanders.

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #16 of 32 Old 03-06-2015, 09:29 AM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Thanks: 21
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by jduff33 View Post
This just happened on my 2005 highlander - at what point would this be considered a recall?

The frames on the tacomas were rusting out a few years ago and they bought back peoples trucks. I dont want them to buy my SUV however I had to replace the power steering pump because of this.
Your not going to get a recall for a rusted hose connection on a 10 year old car, this is considered surface rust and normal wear and tear. Ferrous metal rusts (especially if you live where they salt the roads) and hoses get old. The extended 15 year frame warranty was for rust that was so bad it could perforate the frames of 2005-2010 Tacoma's that resided in northern states where the roads are salted. It wasn't a recall, Toyota just decided to make it right, as well they should.
I'm sure it also made a lot of owners happy that made the mistake of dipping the rear end of their Tacoma's at the salt water boat ramps (LOL) Dont do this with any vehicle!
Preventative maintenance and yearly detailed inspections with followup on worn or rusty parts and fittings will prevent a lot of unscheduled repairs, but most people are of the"if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality, and some take it to the other extreme. I don't like surprises, staying in front of repairs lets me find less expensive quality parts and keeps the vehicles on the road.
I try and change all the fluids in my cars once a year. I'm no mechanic and usually I can afford the luxury of having the dealer or my indy do most of the work on my cars. But by doing it myself once a year, I can get under there and inspect for leaks, nasty looking connections, etc. If I see something that doesn't look right, I research it here, then decide if I'm going to DIY or take it in, or leave it be. Fluid changes are simple, cheap, don't take long and anyone with the motivation can do it.
Been rocking an 03 Highlander since new and an 01 BMW 325i for 150,XXX with little down time and nominal expense.
Surphman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 32 Old 08-29-2016, 05:17 PM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilvtoride View Post
I just replace my hose. Went to NAPA and they were charging me 49.00 delivered to my house. Well after almost a week they sent me no update nor any communication. So I emailed NAPA and they cancelled my order, the part was on manufacture back order with no projected date. So I called a couple dealers and found one on hand for 98 and change. Installed in about an hour and a half. Tough to get to the rear hose clamp at the gears, but finalyy all set. Installed filled with fluid and immediately needed more fluid.. less that half a quart. all good now.. Time to clean the driveway!
Does anyone have part Number for the rusted out line, NAPA or Toyota.
Got the same leak and the bellows look fine.
Riverman47 is offline  
post #18 of 32 Old 08-31-2016, 06:35 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: coastal south carolina
Posts: 591
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 106 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
are you all in "salt" areas?
edwardh1 is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #19 of 32 Old 06-21-2018, 03:58 PM
Official TN Member
 
Hayabusafalcon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Michigan (snow belt)
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 64 Times in 52 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Cool

Reviving string:
2003 V6 AWD 310k miles. My return line between the power steering rack and the side port of the reservoir sprung a leak last week. Sure enough it was that section of metal line that runs along the frame rail, passenger side. Edit: all rusty and ugly, that metal line. This is the second time it has failed...in the same place! Must be bi-metallic corrosion. (*Get it?) Last time about 8 years ago, when the car was 8 years old so I guess the longevity of the part is...umm...about 8 years. Yup.
Rather than replace again with a Genuine Toyota part ($250 parts and labor) I fixed it right myself. I simply ran the line in 3/8 inch rubber power steering hose obtained from NAPA Auto (w/two small radiator clamps). As a connector between the existing lower section of hose and my new hose I trimmed about 2 inches off the end of the old metal line, cleaned it up on the bench grinder wire wheel and clamped it between the two sections. Badda-Boom. Fixed. Cost $9.
The roughest part was removing and re-installing the alternator to get at the lower hose connection. That is a beeotch! *I know...lame.
Haya....
Edit: I suspect the corrosion damage to the line is accelerated here in the snow and SALT belt of lower Michigan. Wintertime, they salt everything. The main roads, the side roads, the parking lots, the sidewalks. Everything. If left standing in one spot too long they will salt your ass, your mule, your horse and your donkey. Lottsa salt used here! Yup.
Haya....
AVConsult likes this.

aka Slick from Ada

Last edited by Hayabusafalcon; 06-24-2019 at 03:54 PM.
Hayabusafalcon is offline  
post #20 of 32 Old 04-14-2019, 05:10 PM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Nassau, NY
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Reviving too, as I'm about to replace this PS return line. It's seeping and is now soaked with PS fluid, but not dripping yet. I noticed it when removing my winter wheels and snows yesterday. It's the return line under the crank pulley as was mentioned in an earlier post. (I just replaced a similar line in my 04 Acura TSX 6 months ago - it also was rusted out, and started to drip on my driveway).

My HL is an 06 V6 AWD Limited, with towing package, 160K miles.

My Toyota part is # 44416-48082. I believe the part for the non-towing pkg equipped HL is # 44416-48092.
$115 list, $90 discounted from the usual Toyota online sellers. Can buy OE on eBay for $66 shipped.
Rockauto has a popular aftermarket at $32 shipped. Most of the time, I buy OE parts. But, I figured that since the original OE part lasted this long, I should be able to get by for a few more years with an aftermarket part in this 06 HL. There are several different aftermarket replacement lines available at Rockauto, including the OE Toyota.

Hope this info helps the next one who finds this thread.

G1 - 2006 HL Limited 3.3L V6 AWD
G2 - 2013 HL Limited 3.5L V6 AWD

Last edited by G2Ken; 04-14-2019 at 06:23 PM.
G2Ken is online now  
post #21 of 32 Old 06-03-2019, 05:22 PM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Same issue

From what I can tell I am having the same issue, and need to replace the same part of Toyota Return Tube 44416-48082.


Do my pictures below look to be the case? I was going to buy this part:


https://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.c...iABEgL5pvD_BwE






Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ezgif.com-gif-maker.gif
Views:	20
Size:	4.19 MB
ID:	242080   Click image for larger version

Name:	Toyota Highlander power steering leak.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	880.7 KB
ID:	242090  
JackBurton is offline  
post #22 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 06:17 AM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Nassau, NY
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Cannot tell from your pictures which line that is. But, as was mentioned earlier,
the rusted out line is typically the horizontally running "metal P/S line right under the crankshaft pulley".

G1 - 2006 HL Limited 3.3L V6 AWD
G2 - 2013 HL Limited 3.5L V6 AWD

Last edited by G2Ken; 06-04-2019 at 07:18 AM.
G2Ken is online now  
post #23 of 32 Old 06-04-2019, 04:59 PM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 236
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Thanks: 1
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
when I last replaced my line, it didn't go up and over the rack, it began and ended in the wheel well area where it runs along the subframe. Just double check that you have the right part there.
Mgeorge is offline  
post #24 of 32 Old 06-21-2019, 06:30 AM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Mgeorge- you are right.


My leak is coming right at that elbow 90 degree turn, it is rusted there somewhere. Does anyone know what part that is? It almost appears as if I need to bend the part I received to make a 90 degree turn and it would be the correct part.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2019-06-21.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	949.4 KB
ID:	243234  
JackBurton is offline  
post #25 of 32 Old 06-22-2019, 05:55 AM
Official TN Member
 
Hayabusafalcon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Michigan (snow belt)
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 64 Times in 52 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Cool Alternative to metal PS return lines

Guys, as I mentioned in my "revival" post I did away with the piece of metal tubing that runs along the inside frame rail. Well I took that a step further by rerouting the new hose I put in in June 2018 doing away with the 2nd piece of metal tubing that runs along the frame rail next to the PS pump. I simply routed the newish PS hose from the reservoir to the piece of metal return line just below the firewall. (The original line-working in reverse to fluid flow-went from rubber to metal to rubber to metal to rubber to metal.) It now just goes rubber to metal. Period.
I looped the rubber hose 180 degrees back towards the firewall and dropped it down to the existing metal line. I even had to trim off about 6 inches.
To avoid the PS pulley I routed the hose back near the firewall well clear of the pulley. I re-used one rubber 90 deg. elbow from the upper line joined by piece of metal line trimmed from the original tubing to form a coupling w/two reused hose clamps. (Like I did last time). I secured everything to the frame and body work with two nylon hose clips I had on hand and a few nylon zip-ties. Cost: $0.
The clips are nylon, yes. Super-super tough and last a long-long time. (And don't rust.)
Haya...

aka Slick from Ada

Last edited by Hayabusafalcon; 06-22-2019 at 08:41 AM. Reason: Wording errors.
Hayabusafalcon is offline  
post #26 of 32 Old 06-22-2019, 06:27 AM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Would a similar method work for me you think? My fear is if i cut out the bad section of pipe and replace it with rubber tubing, the hose clamps will not be strong enough to prevent it from leaking as a drive and things move around.


I would have to cut it before the bracket that is bolted on, and just before the 90 degree turn metal section goes into the other rubber tubing.
JackBurton is offline  
post #27 of 32 Old 06-22-2019, 08:49 AM
Official TN Member
 
Hayabusafalcon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Michigan (snow belt)
Posts: 507
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Thanks: 3
Thanked 64 Times in 52 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Cool

No. Cut nothing.


Pull the rubber hose from the metal line that is mounted on top of the frame rail. This is down in the wheel well below the firewall. Then run a 3/8 inch ID piece of power steering hose (about 18-20 inches, I never measured it actually) up to the reservoir (side port) from there.
As I mentioned I inserted that 90 degree hose to keep the hose run away from the PS pulley/belt. Haya....


BTW- the line pressure is low here. Near atmospheric as this is just going up to the reservoir which is (partially) vented to atmosphere.

aka Slick from Ada
Hayabusafalcon is offline  
post #28 of 32 Old 06-22-2019, 01:02 PM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I ordered the wrong part the first time.


https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/v-2...pump-and-hoses


I order #19 the first time, which was incorrect. 44416-48082


I need #22. 44420-0E010


https://parts.toyotaofnashua.com/oem...Y2LWdhcw%3D%3D


Thanks for the help everyone.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	0E010.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	18.2 KB
ID:	243350   Click image for larger version

Name:	48082.jpg
Views:	5
Size:	7.1 KB
ID:	243352  
JackBurton is offline  
post #29 of 32 Old 06-23-2019, 11:58 AM
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 155
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I am in the middle of this tubing job myself. With at least my I4, there are options for a towing package. You will have a steering system cooler at the front of the radiator if you have the towing option. There are two metal lines going to the cooler. Both will rust. One to the fill reservoir directly (44406-48081), and the other metal line is under the crank pulley, headed for the steering rack (44416-48092). Note that there is another, short, metal return tube parallel and above the actual steering rack. I can't find a part no. for that one. Neither job is particularly difficult. The front plastic skid tray comes off and the RS wheel off helps a lot on the lower tube.

OH, and I find myself, for an unknown reason, using power steering fluid instead of ATF. It seems to work OK.
diver dave is offline  
post #30 of 32 Old 06-23-2019, 12:17 PM
New TN User
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I originally ordered 44416-48092 but that was incorrect, I needed the return pipe which is 4420-0E010. It is all metal with one end threaded.


You can clearly see which it is in the pictures. I'm going to take the passengers side wheel off, jack it up, and hopefully it is doable.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rack1.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	262.2 KB
ID:	243414   Click image for larger version

Name:	rac2.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	268.9 KB
ID:	243416  
JackBurton is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Truck, SUV and Van Forums > Highlander Forum > Highlander 1st Generation (2001-2007)

Bookmarks

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome