HardtopTE72 New Sequoia Purchase Recommendations thread - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-29-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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HardtopTE72 New Sequoia Purchase Recommendations thread

Gen 1 Sequoia 4.7 Liter 2UZFE V8

Timing Belt (depending on mileage): This should be replaced every 7 yrs or 90K miles. When replacing a timing belt, I HIGHLY recommend replacing everything wearable that has to do with the timing belt including: Timing belt, water pump, both front camshaft seals, front crankshaft seal, timing belt upper idler, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner idler, and drive belts. In addition to those parts and since the coolant should be replaced anyway, I highly recommend replacing the thermostat as well, using only a new Toyota or OEM Thermostat (Kuzeh, Tama, etc.).

Note: On 2005-2007 models with VVT-i, the camshaft seal replacement requires removal of the camshafts. I would not really recommend replacing them unless they are presently leaking or the vehicle has over 250K currently, as camshaft removal requires significantly more work. Mine has 208K miles, so at 290K I will probably replace them.

Here are some kits you can use to DIY or have a friend or shop do it to save parts costs.

Here is a very nice 01-04 kit which includes all OEM parts (without all of the Toyota bags/boxes)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEQUOIA-01-0...BS8Vhg&vxp=mtr

Here are two very nice 05-07 kits which include all OEM parts (without all of the Toyota bags/boxes)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS...xVZhq9&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-LX470-...FS6Vqn&vxp=mtr

01-04 Kit with all Toyota Bags/Boxes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Sequo...gPYEDg&vxp=mtr

05-07 Kit with all Toyota Bags/Boxes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Sequo...iwXqRQ&vxp=mtr

I have used these kits and the parts are identical to factory.

I recommend a complete maintenance workup right off the bat.

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Replace the radiator: My Sequoia radiator cracked at 201K miles. This common problem that happens after around 10 years, 200K miles seems to have become a maintenance item. It seems to be an if, not when type situation. If neglected for too long, the radiators are known to have catastrophic failures (blowing off chunks off the upper tank and quickly losing all coolant). Replace the radiator and hoses with OEM or ECR (Electrochemical Resistant) hoses. This would also be an obvious time to replace the coolant.

Switch to synthetic oil: My Sequoia likes Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30. I find most here like 5W30 oil though I see zero benefit to 5W as operating viscosity is the same and all oil is too thick in startup (Pennzoil doesn't offer a 0W30). Others like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra, Amsoil, etc for synthetic oil. You need 7 quarts for a 2UZFE.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Spark plugs on these engines are recommended every 30K for 2001-2004 models and 120K for 2005+ if using OEM equivalent plugs. For 2005+, these are dual precious metal plugs and are rated for longer life than the power plugs. I prefer Denso plugs as they are what came with the truck. I have installed NGK on several cars and had no issues. The 2001-2004 engines came with standard copper plugs and the 2005+ models come with iridium plugs. The early models can be switched to Iridium without issue as they use a COP system. Because of this, I will discuss Iridium plugs only. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium Long Life -

2001-2004 4.7 Liter: PN: SK20PRA8. SN: 3403
2005-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: SK20R11. SN: 3297

Denso Iridium Twin-Tip -

2001-2009 4.7 Liter: SN: 4702

Denso Iridium Power -

2001-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: IK20. SN: 5304

NGK Laser Iridium -

2001-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: IFR6T11. SN: 4589

NGK Iridium IX -

2001-2004 4.7 Liter: PN: BKR6EIX SN: 6418
2005-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: BKR6EIX-11 SN: 3764

Differential and Transfer Case (4WD Models) Oil: I prefer synthetic oils for these applications. Toyota recommends the following for differential and transfer case oil use:

Front Differential -
2001-2007: 75W90 GL5

Transfer Case -
2001-2007: GL5 (presumably 75W90)

Rear Differential -
2001-2002: 75W90
2003-2007: 75W90 w/out towing package or 75W140 synthetic with towing package

I would recommend 75W90 synthetic in all but towing package rear differentials. I use 75W140 synthetic in my towing package rear differential.

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife for all applications. I have also used Castrol Import Transmax, or Toyota Type T-IV with great results in Dexron III spec models. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic that works amazing in both applications. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Note: 01-04 models spec Dexron III while 05-07 models spec WS fluid.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like Fram Ultra XG3600 and Purolator PureOne PL20195 for their price, construction, higher capacity, and leading filtering ability as an oil filter and only Denso engine Air filters. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil. I recommend going with the larger Taurus sized filters for their higher capacity.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-07010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a mesh sceen media type filter element that isn't known to clog. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve and replacement of the grommet which is likely way past it's prime (2001-2003 models).

2001-2002

PCV Valve: 12204-50020
Grommet: 90480-18001
Hose (if damaged): 12262-0F021 or 12261-50070

2003-2007

PCV Valve: 12204-50030
Hose (if damaged): 12262-0F021 or 12261-50070


Gen 2 Sequoia 4.7 Liter 2UZFE V8

Timing Belt (depending on mileage): This should be replaced every 7 yrs or 90K miles. When replacing a timing belt, I HIGHLY recommend replacing everything wearable that has to do with the timing belt including: Timing belt, water pump, both front camshaft seals, front crankshaft seal, timing belt upper idler, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner idler, and drive belts. In addition to those parts and since the coolant should be replaced anyway, I highly recommend replacing the thermostat as well, using only a new Toyota or OEM Thermostat (Kuzeh, Tama, etc.).

Note: On 2008-2009 models with VVT-i, the camshaft seal replacement requires removal of the camshafts. I would not really recommend replacing them unless they are presently leaking or the vehicle has over 250K currently, as camshaft removal requires significantly more work. Mine has 208K miles, so at 290K I will probably replace them.

Here are some kits you can use to DIY or have a friend or shop do it to save parts costs.

Here are two very nice 08-09 kits which include all OEM parts (without all of the Toyota bags/boxes)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-LEXUS...xVZhq9&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-LX470-...FS6Vqn&vxp=mtr

08-09 Kit with all Toyota Bags/Boxes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Sequo...iwXqRQ&vxp=mtr

I have used these kits and the parts are identical to factory.

I recommend a complete maintenance workup right off the bat.

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: My Sequoia likes Pennzoil Platinum and Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30. I find most here like 5W30 oil though I see zero benefit to 5W as operating viscosity is the same and all oil is too thick in startup (Pennzoil doesn't offer a 0W30). Others like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra, Amsoil, etc for synthetic oil. You need 7 quarts for a 2UZFE.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Spark plugs on these engines are recommended every 120K if using OEM equivalent plugs. For 2008+, these are dual precious metal plugs and are rated for longer life than the power plugs. I prefer Denso plugs as they are what came with the truck. I have installed NGK on several cars and had no issues. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium Long Life -

2008-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: SK20R11. SN: 3297

Denso Iridium Twin-Tip -

2008-2009 4.7 Liter: SN: 4702

Denso Iridium Power -

2008-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: IK20. SN: 5304

NGK Laser Iridium -

2008-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: IFR6T11. SN: 4589

NGK Iridium IX -

2008-2009 4.7 Liter: PN: BKR6EIX-11 SN: 3764

Differential and Transfer Case (4WD Models) Oil: I prefer synthetic oils for these applications. For 2008+ Toyota recommends the following for differential and transfer case oil use:

Front Differential -
2008-2009: 75W85 GL5

Transfer Case -
2008-2009: 75W90 GL5

Rear Differential -
2008-2009: 75W85 GL5

I would use a good quality synthetic 75W90 GL5 in all applications.

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife for all applications. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic that works amazing in both applications. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - I like Fram Ultra XG3600 and Purolator PureOne PL20195 for their price, construction, higher capacity, and leading filtering ability as an oil filter and only Denso engine Air filters. Others like Napa/Wix Gold/Platinum, Amsoil, Mobil 1, and K&N here for oil. I recommend going with the larger Taurus sized filters for their higher capacity.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-0S010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a mesh screen media type filter element that isn't known to clog. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

PCV Valve: 12204-50030
Hose (if damaged): 12262-0F021 or 12261-50070


Gen 2 4.6 Liter 1URFE V8

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: These engines do just fine with the recommended 5W20 or 0W20 oil. I find most like to stick with the 0W20 oil and I see zero benefit to 5W as operating viscosity is the same and all oil is too thick in startup. I like Pennzoil Platinum and others like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra, Amsoil, etc for synthetic oil. You need 8 quarts for a 3URFE.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Spark plugs on these engines are recommended every 120K if using OEM equivalent plugs. For 2008+, these are dual precious metal plugs and are rated for longer life than the power plugs. I prefer Denso plugs as they are what came with the truck. I have installed NGK on several cars and had no issues. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium Long Life -

2010-2012 4.6 Liter: PN: SK20HR11. SN: 3421

Denso Iridium Twin-Tip -

2010-2012 4.6 Liter: SN: 4704

Denso Iridium Power -

2010-2012 4.6 Liter: SN: 4704

NGK Laser Iridium -

2010-2012 4.6 Literr: PN: ILFR6T11. SN: 4904

NGK Iridium IX -

2010-2012 4.6 Liter: PN: LFR6AIX11 SN: 6619

Differential and Transfer Case (4WD Models) Oil: I prefer synthetic oils for these applications. For 2008+ Toyota recommends the following for differential and transfer case oil use:

Front Differential -
2010-2012: 75W85 GL5

Transfer Case -
2008-2012: 75W90 GL5

Rear Differential -
2010-2012: 75W85 GL5

I would use a good quality synthetic 75W90 GL5 in all applications.

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife for all applications. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic that works amazing in both applications. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - The OEM is the only filter I will use as it has shown to be one of the only filters that will not collapse. It is also relatively inexpensive. Part number is 04152-YZZA4/150-3023.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-0S010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a mesh screen media type filter element that isn't known to clog. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

PCV Valve: 12204-38030
Hose (if damaged): 12261-38080


Gen 2 5.7 Liter 3URFE/3URFBE V8

Change the engine coolant: The only real requirement is that the coolant be a P-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant that does not contain 2EHA (Dexcool or Dexclones), silicates, amines, or borates. I am an avid user of Reochem OEM Premium Red and Pink and Pentofrost A1 coolants.

Other highly recommended coolants include Toyota Red Concentrate, Honda Type 2 (Honda Blue), Pentofrost A1 (Red), Pentofrost A2 (Green), Pentofrost A3 (Blue), Pentofrost A4 (Pink), Beck/Arnley Premium Extended Life Pink, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Extended Life Blue, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Red Concentrate, Beck/Arnley Premium OE Green Concentrate, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Red, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Pink, Reochem OEM Premium Extended Life Blue, and many other OEM coolants. Replace every 60-80K.

Switch to synthetic oil: These engines do just fine with the recommended 5W20 or 0W20 oil. I find most like to stick with the 0W20 oil and I see zero benefit to 5W as operating viscosity is the same and all oil is too thick in startup. I like Pennzoil Platinum and others like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra, Amsoil, etc for synthetic oil. You need 8 quarts for a 3URFE.

Spark plugs (depending on mileage): Spark plugs on these engines are recommended every 120K if using OEM equivalent plugs. For 2008+, these are dual precious metal plugs and are rated for longer life than the power plugs. I prefer Denso plugs as they are what came with the truck. I have installed NGK on several cars and had no issues. If you have a valve cover gasket leak this is a great time to do spark plugs.

Part numbers:

Denso Iridium Long Life -

2008-2015 5.7 Liter: PN: SK20HR11. SN: 3421

Denso Iridium Twin-Tip -

2008-2015 5.7 Liter: SN: 4704

Denso Iridium Power -

2008-2015 5.7 Liter: SN: 4704

NGK Laser Iridium -

2008-2015 5.7 Liter: PN: ILFR6T11. SN: 4904

NGK Iridium IX -

2008-2015 5.7 Liter: PN: LFR6AIX11 SN: 6619

Differential and Transfer Case (4WD Models) Oil: I prefer synthetic oils for these applications. For 2008+ Toyota recommends the following for differential and transfer case oil use:

Front Differential -
2008-2015: 75W85 GL5

Transfer Case -
2008-2015: 75W90 GL5

Rear Differential -
2008-2015: 75W85 GL5

I would use a good quality synthetic 75W90 GL5 in all applications.

Automatic Transmission fluid: I prefer Valvoline Maxlife for all applications. Maxlife has all great reviews online and is a well priced synthetic that works amazing in both applications. Others like Dexron VI, and Mercon V fluids as well for these applications. I have used Maxlife extensively and it is all I use in Toyotas I service newer than around 1995.

Filters: Quality filters are worth their weight.

Oil - The OEM is the only filter I will use as it has shown to be one of the only filters that will not collapse. It is also relatively inexpensive. Part number is 04152-YZZA4/150-3023.

Air filters - Highly recommend OEM Denso 17801-0S010 for it's 3 layer filtering.

Automatic Transmission - These transmissions use a mesh screen media type filter element that isn't known to clog. I highly recommend replacing these around 100K miles if the fluid was never changed or around 130K if the fluid was consistently changed every 30-40K via drain and fill or 60K via cooler line flush.

Power steering fluid: I recommend every 3 years or so. I use a quality synthetic ATF like Valvoline Maxlife in all my Toyotas.

Brake fluid: I replace mine every 2-3 years as well. I use whatever synthetic is available at the auto parts store or Walmart (Prestone, Wearever, Valvoline) at the lowest price.

PCV Valve: Doesn't hurt to replace such an inexpensive and important part every 5 or so years. I highly recommend sticking with a Toyota only PCV valve.

PCV Valve: 12204-38030
Hose (if damaged): 12261-38080


Model Specific Problems:

Gen 1 2UZFE V8:

1. Broken rear liftgate handle - This is easily the most common issue with these trucks. Over time and from trying to open a locked door, issues with a stretched cable/bent cable mount, or binding latches, the handle breaks off. Most often the repair is the use a screwdriver to open the door, replace the handle, lube all mechanisms, and use a spacer or other means to remove cable slack. Other times, it is an actuator problem or other issue in conjunction with a broken handle.

Here is a video that covers the rear handle replacement:


Here is a video that covers the stretched cable/bent cable mount issue:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=N2iBu8sqiiY

2. Stuck rear liftgate window - At times, the rear window can become stuck in the open, closed, or any other number of positions. This is a result of the window stopped jamming the window regulator. There is an easy TSB fix that requires removal of the stopper. When the rear window is experiencing this condition, the rear wiper will also not work.

Note: The TSB also requires replacement of the rear window ECU, regulator, and other stuff. The only required fix is the stopper removal. It has worked for every single one I have done.

TSB link: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sk...840_01_seq.pdf

3. Cracked radiator upper tank - This seems to affect all models and appears sometime after around 10 years or 200K miles. If you check the radiator, you will first notice a gradual loss of coolant and a faint white and/or pink crust at the upper tank. The fix is to replace the radiator. When replacing the radiator, it is recommended to go with a Denso unit and use new Toyota or ECR (Electrochemical Resistant) hoses.

4. VSC system codes and/or failure - Early models had issues with various sensors in the VSC system (name the yaw control sensor). These normally require a replacement of the sensor and a zero point reset of the system. The reset requires driving in a predetermined pattern after placing the vehicle in inspection mode.

5. Brake "warping" - Early (2001-2003) models had issues with the brake caliper and pads being too small for the vehicle. This caused the overworking of the pads, resulting in pad deposits on the rotor and brake vibration. The fix was to replace the old caliper with the newer 2004+ model caliper and swap the pads.

6. Valve cover gasket leaks - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gaskets will eventually leak. Since as of this writing, the newest version of these cars is nearly 10 years old, finding one without a valve cover gasket leak is growing increasingly difficult.

7. Secondary Air Injection System failure - The 05+ models have an additional system for emissions reduction called Secondary Air Injection. This system is designed to inject air into the exhaust to assist with emissions reduction. Overtime, the pump can fail causing serious driveability concerns (reduced speed, stalling , etc.). The fix is to install a bypass module and block off plates to completely eliminate the system:

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index....duct_list&c=17

8. Transmission failure - The early 2001-2003 models experienced higher than normal transmission failures. A large concern is overall maintenance, but heat plays a large factor. As such, it is recommended to add a separate transmission cooler to older models to assist with keeping the transmission cool and keeping on top of proper fluid maintenance.

9. Exhaust tick - Some 1st Gen models experience an exhaust tick or rattle noise from a rusted and/or cracked exhaust manifold. Specifically, the small flanges around the ports leak near where they meet the head. The fix is to remove the affected manifold and repair the affected port, replace with a new OEM manifold, replace with an aftermarket manifold, or swap in headers.

Gen 2 4.7 Liter 2UZFE V8:

1. Secondary Air Injection System failure - The 05+ models have an additional system for emissions reduction called Secondary Air Injection. This system is designed to inject air into the exhaust to assist with emissions reduction. Overtime, the pump can fail causing serious drivability concerns (reduced speed, stalling , etc.). Specifically, the Gen 2 4.7 liter engines have 2 pumps, both of which can cause identical problems. The fix is to install a bypass module and block off plates to completely eliminate the system:

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index....duct_list&c=17

2. Valve cover gasket leaks - Like most gaskets, with age the valve cover gaskets will eventually leak.


Gen 2 4.6 Liter 1URFE V8:

1. Secondary Air Injection System failure - The 05+ models have an additional system for emissions reduction called Secondary Air Injection. This system is designed to inject air into the exhaust to assist with emissions reduction. Overtime, the pump can fail causing serious driveability concerns (reduced speed, stalling , etc.). The fix is to install a bypass module and block off plates to completely eliminate the system:

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index....duct_list&c=17

2. Headliner rattle - On some models, the plastic barrier in the headliner can become loose causing a rattle and/or banging noise. The fix is remove the barrier and add some insulation to the area:



Gen 2 5.7 Liter 3URFE/3URFBE V8:

1. Secondary Air Injection System failure - The 05+ models have an additional system for emissions reduction called Secondary Air Injection. This system is designed to inject air into the exhaust to assist with emissions reduction. Overtime, the pumps can fail causing serious driveability concerns (reduced speed, stalling , etc.). Specifically, the 5.7 liter engines have 2 pumps, both of which can cause identical problems. The fix is to install a bypass module and block off plates to completely eliminate the system:

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index....duct_list&c=17

2. VVT-i Solenoid leaks - On some early models, anyone of the four VVT-i solenoids can leak at the connection in the valve cover. The fix is to remove the solenoid, clean it, and replace the o-ring.

3. Headliner rattle - On some models, the plastic barrier in the headliner can become loose causing a rattle and/or banging noise. The fix is remove the barrier and add some insulation to the area:


Please see the maintenance sticky below for recommended parts and fluids:

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/86...ce-thread.html


Feel free to PM or reply with any additions and I will see if I can get to them
hunterdan83 likes this.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.

Last edited by hardtopte72; 03-12-2017 at 01:04 PM. Reason: Update, Cleanup, Error Corrections
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-29-2016, 02:01 PM
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Sequoia recommendations

Outstanding -- thank you! I'm trying to figure out if my 2001 is better off being traded in at 230,000 for a new one, or should I go the rehabilitation route.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-29-2016, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOldSequoia View Post
Outstanding -- thank you! I'm trying to figure out if my 2001 is better off being traded in at 230,000 for a new one, or should I go the rehabilitation route.
Certainly cheaper to fix it up. At 208K I really need struts and shocks, retint the windows, and I want to install the air injection bypass. Besides that, it starts and drives like new.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-29-2016, 09:59 PM
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Clearly I need a new radiator with associated parts if I want to avoid trouble. Other posts in the forum confirm that. All the other Toyota recommended services I have had (belt, etc) but didn't consider that one.

Another big question is coil pack(s). Had the #7 go bad the other day, close to a shopping center. First time the engine has ever missed. Out of an abundance of caution I had the Sequoia towed to the dealer about 15 miles away. Realized the plugs were very old, so those got replaced along with the coil. I thought about replacing all of them but the service advisor I've known for years said I didn't need to, and that it would cost about $1100 anyway. Read somewhere else that the #7 coil is susceptible to water leaks coming in --that's why it is usually first to fail. Don't know about that but would really be interested to know your assessment.

The only other time my wonderful 16 year old truck has failed me is when an OEM battery went bad, so bad it could not be jumped. That was the only other tow. Wound up with a Sears DieHard Platinum (Odyssey) AGM battery which will not fail without giving abundant warning.

Last edited by BigOldSequoia; 05-29-2016 at 10:00 PM. Reason: typo
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-29-2016, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Clearly I need a new radiator with associated parts if I want to avoid trouble. Other posts in the forum confirm that. All the other Toyota recommended services I have had (belt, etc) but didn't consider that one.

Another big question is coil pack(s). Had the #7 go bad the other day, close to a shopping center. First time the engine has ever missed. Out of an abundance of caution I had the Sequoia towed to the dealer about 15 miles away. Realized the plugs were very old, so those got replaced along with the coil. I thought about replacing all of them but the service advisor I've known for years said I didn't need to, and that it would cost about $1100 anyway. Read somewhere else that the #7 coil is susceptible to water leaks coming in --that's why it is usually first to fail. Don't know about that but would really be interested to know your assessment.

The only other time my wonderful 16 year old truck has failed me is when an OEM battery went bad, so bad it could not be jumped. That was the only other tow. Wound up with a Sears DieHard Platinum (Odyssey) AGM battery which will not fail without giving abundant warning.
I would be curious to see if yours is already cracking and/or showing early failure signs.

As for the coils, I am not going to say it is a bad idea, but I don't think it is necessary.

You can get 7 OEM Denso coils on Rockauto for around $365. Those are the same coils you would buy at the dealer. Install is about as easy as it gets. It is literally one connector and one 10mm bolt for each coil. Remove each, then pull out the coil and replace it. If you want it done, save your money and do it yourself.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-30-2016, 11:52 AM
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I would be curious to see if yours is already cracking and/or showing early failure signs.
From what I could see without taking the shroud off, it's in decent shape. No leaks or corrosion visible and fluid is clean. Makes me feel better doing that - will make it a check item on the next service.

Thanks a lot for the info on coils. Good to know. I really like your Sequoia recommended components list. That is valuable information.

A very minor item is how to fix the yellowing on the headlight covers. My vehicle has to sit outside, and even though I did the "dealer treatment" a few years ago, they are yellow and cloudy again. Any tips on that?
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-30-2016, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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From what I could see without taking the shroud off, it's in decent shape. No leaks or corrosion visible and fluid is clean. Makes me feel better doing that - will make it a check item on the next service.

Thanks a lot for the info on coils. Good to know. I really like your Sequoia recommended components list. That is valuable information.

A very minor item is how to fix the yellowing on the headlight covers. My vehicle has to sit outside, and even though I did the "dealer treatment" a few years ago, they are yellow and cloudy again. Any tips on that?
Try this:

Mike144 likes this.

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.
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That guy's a real craftsman. Bet he's making serious money on YouTube. He's also right about hazy headlights affecting car value (not to mention visibility at night).
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-13-2017, 02:18 PM
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Thanks so much.

Just purchased a 2010 Seq. Ltd. last week. 83K miles. Your write up will be extremely helpful. Thanks again.

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Just purchased a 2010 Seq. Ltd. last week. 83K miles. Your write up will be extremely helpful. Thanks again.
Glad to help!

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
1988 Cressida 5MGE A/T (1JZ Swap Coming)
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.
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post #11 of 11 Old 11-19-2018, 01:11 AM
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can you update the first gen kit links? the OEM no logo, and OEM with Toyota tags are both not available... Thanks! (just got a 2002 2wd sequoia at about the right mileage to start worrying about stuff like the radiator...)


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