Seals on knuckle not butting up - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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post #1 of 5 Old 05-09-2016, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Seals on knuckle not butting up

2008 fj cruiser stock

I just changed out my hub assembly and steering knuckle seal. I can't get the grease retainer cap to butt back up to the seal. What am I doing wrong? I've had it apart twice looking over my work. I've tried driving it down with an impact and with a long ass breaker bar with me jumping on the end. Could this bearing be just a hair different ? It's a dorman wheel hub assembly. I'm lost on this. I'm afraid to drive it too much. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!
Best regards,
Mike
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post #2 of 5 Old 05-15-2016, 02:07 AM
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I am not going to lecture you about using aftermarket parts but will tell you that a lot of mechanics who do this for a living refuse to use many of the aftermarket wheel bearings -- particularly those sourced in China.

The hub and wheel bearing are put into their final length by pressing. Once the CV shaft is inserted into the pressed hub assembly the axle nut must be precisely torqued, no more no less. I would be a bit concerned at this point about possible damage being done to the tapered rollers inside the bearing by use of both the impact wrench (hammering) and the long extension
with unknown torque.

On other vehicle where I was trying to save costs and use aftermarket the splines of the hub were manufactured too small relative to those of the CV shaft and the shaft just would not enter far enough no matter what. It happens. Close but not correct.

With the axle nut removed there should not be too much or too little shaft relative to the splined part of the hub. It should not look as though there is excess length of splines on the hub part under the nut. If different, the hub and bearing may have been improperly or incompletely pressed or the wrong dimensions.

The guessing game is magnified if an aftermarket CV shaft has been used or a different steering knuckle used.
If this were mine I would get OEM parts and do the job. If you shop around you can find deals on OEM. For example, I recently saw a new OEM hub a Toyota dealer had listed on Amazon for around $80. I bought it.

For the wheel bearing module you can get OEM by purchasing aftermarket. So you would be safe getting a KOYO, SKF, NSK or one of the major brands. Until recently most were reboxed KOYO or NSK anyway being the original used during production but be sure to look at the inscription on the side of the bearing itself, not what's on the box. For example a box labeled Timken could easily have the OEM bearing inside, but you must open and look at the inscription. Stay far away from Chinese bearings.

Finally, you are going to need a new seal between the hub (the part with lug stds) and the wheel bearing module. The seal is pressed together with the hub and bearing module.
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Last edited by Taco'09; 05-15-2016 at 02:39 AM.
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post #3 of 5 Old 05-15-2016, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks you very much for all of the advice. Toyota wanted $485 for this wheel hub assembly. There's is no way I'm paying that. I got a dorman wheel hub assembly and I tested the fit again after I removed everything and I slide it on the axle itself with no interference. It fit perfectly.

The problem ended up being as I was removing the hub assembly I had to use a lot of force to get it apart from the steering knuckle. I think the oring around the hub had failed and let water inside causing the axle and the hub bearing to rust together. So while I was beating the hub assembly off I didn't know the axle was coming out as well. So it bent the dust shield that mates to the cv axle. I just fixed this yesterday by carefully bending that flange back into shape so it would fit up against the steering knuckle oil seal.

What a mess this has been. I went to the dealership three times and the ordered the wrong part every time. I eventually went to autozone and tried to see if I could look at one of their axles and the dust shield was on the cv axle. So the dealership won't sell you this part separately you have to buy their $500 half shaft cv axle. I could have probably order this dust shield online but after my rig being down for almost two weeks trying to figure out what I did and not being able to get the right parts, I had to do something. Thanks again and I hope this helps someone else that runs into this problem.
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post #4 of 5 Old 05-15-2016, 01:53 PM
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Thanks for the update. All of us have been in that position at one time or another and have made similar decisions so take heart. Glad you got it. Just think, you will be an expert when the other side comes due

I keep a set of new seals around because I remember the first time doing this job. Good luck and holler if you need something else. I have a Taco but much on our drivetrain are the same so I jump in here once in awhile.
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post #5 of 5 Old 05-15-2016, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks will do!!
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