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  • 58Toyopet ·

    I'm sending you a pm to let you know I followed your advice in the "4Runner Forum > 4Runner 2nd Generation (1990-1995) > 1995 4Runner passenger window doesn't work" thread and posted a reply.

    If you could offer some additional assistance either in the thread or via pm I would be very grateful to you sir. Thanks!

    Nick90Camry ·
    I was thinking that it could have something to do with the wheel being a 14 inch. I think a larger wheel would have more of a bend in the spoke to get around the caliper but im not sure. I dont really want to try a bunch of different other wheels to find out that a 14 inch just wont fit my car.
    lehtoada ·
    Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, same shape, and it went in easily. But I see what you mean about it being sensitive, since the engine now dies when I try to accelerate. I'll get a timing light. Dumb question: do I point it at the 15-10-5-0 on the timing belt cover? Should it be adjusted to 0?
    lehtoada ·
    Hello. Just read your post:

    Is it really as simple as that? I've got an '89 2.0. I don't have a timing light, and was hoping to just be able to line the new distributor up in the same position as the old one, after marking the old distributor base and engine block. The one I'm installing is a complete unit with integrated wires. I haven't taken the old one off yet, but I see on the new one that the coupler on the end of the shaft is non-symmetrical, so it can only go in one way, as you note. In your post you say to position rotor vertically 'if you like'. But there's no need to, right? As long as I can slide in the new distributor, and position the new base in the same way as the old, everything should be OK. I shouldn't even have to take the cap off the new unit when I'm installing it. Or am I missing something?

    Shamrocksteady ·
    Hey, I saw on your profile that you own a 1987 Camry I4. I'm considering buying one (wagon) as my first project car and wanted to know if you have any pointers about things to look out for, etc? It has 139,000 miles and is selling for $1,900. The A/C isn't cold but the guys says the Schrader valve needs to be replaced.

    Anyway, i've never worked on cars before - do you know if it is EFI or carbureator?

    thanks - sorry if im not asking the right questions!

    gogo94804 ·
    Thank you..i must have deleted that item the interior lock driverside must be a electronic/power lock...i think the pic you send was for a manual...would you mind resending the [ic of the part? Thank you so much
    bigodfw ·
    thanks for your help. have you done this repair before ? i never done it on this car im just wondering what all i will have to tear down to access the pipes. but if you don't know that's ok.
    John M ·
    thank you. When i have a computer i can chrck the threars and make sure they are closed out. I find tbe forum extreme,y difficult to use. Awful sw. Most forums... are like this, poorly developed user interfacr
    ferisewheel ·
    hey bro. You know what the part number is for the lock-up solenoid on the V6? Apparently the one I bought from Oreilly has the same connector as the one inside the valve body. I'm having doubts that I got the wrong solenoid.
    tjdean01 ·
    Hey, I appreciate your willingness to give me a hand. If you ever have a vacuum, TV, or digital camera question, that's my line of expertise!

    Full VIN: 4T1BG22K2WU232014

    So, both are tinted to different degrees. Hmm, interesting...and extremely difficult! :(
    schwally4 ·
    Thanks again for help. Sorry, I have had a hard time navigating the forum, found your previous answer. Thanks again, it looks like the right number.
    schwally4 ·
    Do you know the part number for the plug you have a picture of? I went to dealership and they can't find the plug or part number so said they can't help me. I brought in the photo of the plug, but they still couldn't help me.
    Phil_Bleach ·
    Alright, I'll keep the mounts. They look fine. If you have good boots I'm a buyer, and I'll try to save the lower insulators... if they can't be saved I'll do the fuel line thing, that's so me lol

    The sway bar links I believe are metal and quite rusty if my memory is correct, so I'll buy some of those. The springs will be cleaned and painted for sure.

    Keep me updated on those boots and thanks again.

    Phil_Bleach ·
    Hi there,

    I finally have money to buy new struts. I like this set|Model%3ACamry&hash=item1c17736e9e&vxp=mtr

    I absolutely need new boots and will replace the mounts while I'm there. I plan to keep the springs. Anything I'm missing? Any advice? Do I need to buy everything from KYB if I go with their struts? I'm asking you personally since you've been there and I'm not looking to mod or lower the car. Didn't feel the need to post a new thread and get a thousand different opinions.


    schwally4 ·
    I was wondering how you fixed yours after damaging your plug? Did you drill it out and then retap? Thanks again for all the replies.
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