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    1. · Registered
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      264 Posts
      Made some major progress today. I am close to pulling the water pump.

      Spent a good amount of time trying to loosen the crankshaft bolt. I read all your replies ( thank you) . But my crankshaft bolt was tighter than most, because I tried the "use the engine to loosen the bolt method" . I secured my wrench to the concrete garage floor and ended up bending my wrench handle to a nice curved 90 degrees (pics to come).

      I opted to make a club from the link that AGNI provided. I used the metal pipe flange method but welded on a metal bar to a threaded coupling instead of the pipe wrench, and welded all the movable parts together (don't weld the inside because it will block your socket)


      I got stuck on step # 33... I pulled the rear timing cover (metal). You see there are two bolts on the top of the camshaft. Are those to help relieve tension on the seal. I didn't want to touch them without asking.
      Looking forward to a pic on that wrench. :D

      I'm probably going to try a 25" long 1/2 breaker bar from HF. I'm a little skeptical, but a reviewer said it was stronger than his craftsman breaker bar (even tho he still broke it, lol.)
       
    1. · Registered
      Highlander
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      1,735 Posts
      When I worked on my and my friend's Gen4/Gen4.5 and Solara Gen1 suspension, the electric impact wrench I had worked fine with the strut-to-axle carrier bolts since they were pretty tight. But if you are referring to strut mount bolts, I wouldn't recommend using the electric impact wrench since they'll likely do more harm to the nut, likewise for the lug nuts.

      If you have a Harbor Freight near you, I would recommend getting these tools as they were suggested to me.
      22mm Socket
      Breaker Bar
      Pry Bar Set : used for pushing the power steering pump in order to tighten the belt and lifting out the shield when putting the new water pump in
      Bolt Puller Set : used to pulley the crankshaft pulley off

      In addition to the several 10-mm bolts holding the water pump in, there are two studs that require a torx socket to remove ONLY IF the torx threads aren't stripped. If they are stripped, then you'll need to get a stud extractor, otherwise, that water pump isn't coming out.
       
    1. · 2001 Camry XLE 1MZ-FE
      2001 Camry XLE
      Joined
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      1,726 Posts
      I tried the starter method on the crankshaft bolt, cracked two sockets trying. I also accidentally let the engine run for about 3/4 of a second before turning it off, has anything been damaged?
      I will need a bigger breaker bar and meaner sockets..........im not the kind of guy that gives up easily, but im almost at the point of putting everything back together and forget the whole project.
      Go to Harbor Freight and get a set of their impact sockets. They are plenty tough, and won't split, and pick up a breaker bar when you are there. They come in handy for many projects. Always use a 1/2" drive setup for something like this. A 3/8" socket, or ratchet isn't up to the task. For that matter neither is a 1/2" ratchet. Best to use a breaker bar.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-67899.html

      Get a deep well set if you can afford both.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-drive-metric-deep-wall-impact-socket-set-69287.html

      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html

      And as RonR said, I'm assuming that you are talking about the CRANKshaft bolt, and not the CAMshaft bolt. Either way, both are covered in the DIY.

      Good luck.

      .
       
    1. · Registered
      96 camry 2.2
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      483 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      Today I did my passenger side axle. A tool that I found to be a real time saver is a loaner tool from AutoZone. It's the OEM/FWD axle puller adapter http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/fwd-axle-puller-adapter/oem-fwd-axle-puller-adapter/2061_0_0/

      I put this thing on between the axle and the bearing bracket and after a few moderate blows with a slide hammer the axle popped right out. I had soaked it with PB Blaster the previous night and pried from the front and back and also tried to hammer the bearing out with a punch and hammer with no success. If you don't have slide hammer get that from AZ too like I did.

      One of my favorite tools was also extremely helpful. My Harbor Freight 25 inch breaker bar. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html I used it to loosen the 30mm axle nut as well as 17mm ball joint nuts/bolt. Try as I might I couldn't get the 17mm differential fill plug to break from underneath the car, so I had my wife stick the breaker bar down from the top while I put it on the plug. My little wife had no trouble breaking that plug loose.

      An extra long set of needle nose pliers would have helped to take off the giant C shaped spring, but I has able to get it off with my 8" pliers decently enough and was able to put it back on by hand.

      John
       
    1. · Registered
      96 camry 2.2
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      483 Posts
      I recently did the passenger side axle on my 5sfe 96 camry and it wasn't all that hard. I strongly suggest two tools. A slider hammer with a FWD axle puller adapter. The borrow fee is about $60 at Autozone which they will fully refund.

      http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/fwd-axle-puller-adapter/oem-fwd-axle-puller-adapter/2061_0_0/

      Also a really long breaker bar to break loose the differential fill plug from above. It'll also make quick work of the axle nut.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html

      John
       
    1. · Registered
      96 camry 2.2
      Joined
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      483 Posts
      I'd check the lower control arm as well. The rubber bushing in it deteriorate over time and especially so if oil soaked. You can get the lower control from rock auto for about 40 bucks plus shipping.

      I'd jack the car up and removed the tire. Grab the wheel and give it a good shaking. The lower control arms aren't too hard to replace.

      If you don't have an impact you'll want one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-67933.html
       
    1. · Registered
      96 camry 2.2
      Joined
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      483 Posts
      On those Harbor Freight torque wrenches you will most likely not hear the click on the lower end of their setting. You have to really watch it---literally---you can see and feel it give suddenly when you hit the desired torque. The click may be so soft that you won't hear it and potentially damage something, but you can see the slight angle change between the head and the handle.

      As the others said, get the other two sizes straight from Harbor Freight when you have a coupon as well as the 25" breaker bar---it'll make your life a little easier. $9 using the coupon code on their main page. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...zIjoiOC45OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi OiIxMDAwNCJ9

      I've got one with a 21mm socket on it in each car. That makes removing lug nuts a breeze.
       
    1. · Registered
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      4 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #6 ·
      Thanks for the inputs. I am going with the full assembly to avoid having to deal with spring compressors. Good idea on "renting" the tools. If I were to buy them, this is what I believe I would need. Anything else?

      Floor jack - $95
      Jack stands - $22
      Breaker bar - $13
      Torque wrench - $20
      Socket extension set - $10
      Steel wire brush - $1

      Total = $161.

      I already have a ratcheting socket set with various metric sizes.
       
    1. · イリジウム
      Joined
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      15,408 Posts
      As others already mentioned, you'll need a longer breaker bar. A 12" breaker bar doesn't give you the leverage needed to loosen the two large mounting nuts/bolts. Especially if there's rust.

      Harbor Freight just had a 10% off coupon and I'm sure more will follow near Thanksgiving Black Friday.

      What I use, with lifetime warranty:

      A better one they also sell:

      And the Tekton brand mentioned:

      1/2" deep impact socket set, you can decide 6-point or 12-point (check your axle nut if you might work on it in the future):


      Actually I found that the keyword I must search for it is the "Breaker Bar" not the "Gear Wrench". Thank you guys!

      I think I will buy something like this and hope it will do the job:
       
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