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    1. · 抵抗しても無駄だ
      2002 Solara SLE V6
      Joined
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      9,097 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      recently was looking for any cheap and working 1/2'' metric socket set and noticed that all I found (shallow, not deep wall) are 12-point sockets, so I picked up this from local HFT:

      http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html



      $29.99
      Description of Pittsburgh 67988
      High visibility markings for easier, faster socket selection. Comes with ratchet driver, 14" breaker bar and 5" extension.

      • Triple chrome plated
      • Rugged chrome vanadium construction
      • ANSI certified
      Sizes: 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 26mm, 27mm and 28mm Drive: 1/2" Points: 12
      The brand is Pittsburgh Pro.

      is it a good idea to use 12-point 1/2'' sockets around engine?

      Last time I was doing 5s-fe timing job I could barely do that with 3/8'' socket set and with cascaded (daisy chained) combo wrenches. cannot imagine doing it again without 1/2'' ratchet (longer) and shallow sockets (also longer than 3/8'' ones).

      thanks for opinions.
       
    2. · イリジウム
      Joined
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      15,408 Posts
      That's a versatile set (I have an earlier version with rubber cushion breaker bar handle), but now comes with a slightly shorter 14" breaker bar. It's also missing a 21mm for the lug nuts. Just pick from HF's individual socket rack. I think it's $1.99 each for the standard size ones, $2.99 for deep sockets.

      The 6-point is supposed to have more contact area and less of a chance to round the bolt head. The sides of the 6-point socket are actually not flat but curved to allow for higher torque application. But IME I prefer the 12-point because it's easier in tight places.

      I use 1/2" more often than the 3/8" (only when I need more clearance). I'd say go for it. Wait for a sale or get a 20% off coupon that shows up in AAA or car magazines.


      recently was looking for any cheap and working 1/2'' metric socket set and noticed that all I found (shallow, not deep wall) are 12-point sockets, so I picked up this from local HFT:

      http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html



      $29.99
      Description of Pittsburgh 67988
      High visibility markings for easier, faster socket selection. Comes with ratchet driver, 14" breaker bar and 5" extension.

      • Triple chrome plated
      • Rugged chrome vanadium construction
      • ANSI certified
      Sizes: 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24mm, 25mm, 26mm, 27mm and 28mm Drive: 1/2" Points: 12
      The brand is Pittsburgh Pro.

      is it a good idea to use 12-point 1/2'' sockets around engine?

      Last time I was doing 5s-fe timing job I could barely do that with 3/8'' socket set and with cascaded (daisy chained) combo wrenches. cannot imagine doing it again without 1/2'' ratchet (longer) and shallow sockets (also longer than 3/8'' ones).

      thanks for opinions.
       
    1. · イリジウム
      Joined
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      15,408 Posts
      If you used a 3/8" extension bar to tighten the strut mounting nuts/bolts (or anything > 80 lb/ft), then there's a chance the correct torque wasn't reached. So I'd recommend a 1/2" set like the following. Or look into Sears' Black Friday sale and pick up a mechanics set. In the case of the strut-to-knuckle nuts/bolts, use 1/2" extension and socket.

      Also, you shouldn't have to touch the brake system except remove the mounting clips (white arrows in your picture) that hold the hoses and wires so they won't get pinched/stretched. I'd use another trolley jack or wood blocks to support the knuckle, or tie a 12awg solid copper wire from a lug nut (put a couple back on) to the subframe, so the heavy knuckle with all the brake parts won't fall flat out once the strut bolts are removed.

      http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html

      But was the knuckle bolts/nuts the cause of the noises? Dunno. My guess is more toward the mount areas but I can't be sure.

      Or have an assistant help listen outside the car or ride in the back and listen to the mount area - exercise necessary precautions around a moving car of course.
       
    1. · イリジウム
      Joined
      ·
      15,408 Posts
      If you're checking into electrical faults then a multimeter from Harbor Freight Tools ($5 on sale) or a Craftsman on sale at Sears ($11) should work fine. You probably dont' need a test light now if you have a multimeter, and some test lights shouldn't be used on electronic ignition systems because of current draw anyway (can damage transistors):

      Craftsman Multimeter, Digital, with 8 Functions and 20 Ranges
      $11 on sale Sears Item# 03482141000 | Model# 82141
      http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=1
      Or HFT $5 on sale:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

      If you are going to be doing your own oil changes and transmission fluid drains/refills, then a metric socket set and hex bit sockets (for transmission and differential drain bolts) at HFT, 6 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set. Or just get a single 10mm one $5.49 at Sears (Sears Item# 00942679000 , I think the $8.99 HFT set is a better deal myself, but you likely won't need the others):
      http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-38-drive-metric-hex-bit-socket-set-67891.html
      plus an oil filter wrench especially good for the smaller I4 filter:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-to-4-1-4-quarter-inch-oil-filter-wrench-36778.html

      A mechanic's tool set like:
      HFT $32, but you'll need an additional 1/2" metric socket set for heavier work and maybe a few others later:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/64-piece-14-38-and-12-socket-set-67995.html
      http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67916.html

      Or the Sears 118 pc set on sale $54-60 has most sockets you'll need, but has only 1/4" and 3/8" ratchets, not the 1/2"-drive ratchet. IMO this is the better deal and you can get a HFT 1/2" ratchet later if needed:
      http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934118000P?prdNo=24
      1/2" HFT ratchet, $12 on sale:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-heavy-duty-quick-release-ratchet-40582.html
      1/2" set of extension bars:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=1/2"+extension

      Or build them separately starting out with a 3/8" set and then a 1/2" set with a short extension bar and a 14" breaker bar, but these are only metric:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-high-visibility-38-drive-metric-socket-set-67999.html
      http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html

      For tire rotation a 18" long (or 25" long for more leverage but clumsy) 1/2"-drive breaker bar:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-18-breaker-bar-67932.html
      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html

      I would also pick up a set of torque wrenches when the sale prices are like $12-19 each or so.
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.html
      http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html

      Plus other basic hand tools like screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
       
    1. · イリジウム
      Joined
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      15,408 Posts
      Gates does make its own pumps in recent years and probably rebrand and sell them to others too. I'd like to see their track record as there were a few noise complaints that I saw. Of course for some reason the Aisin pumps on Gen 5+ Camrys were failing very early too, like 25K miles repeatedly for some. While I don't spec Aisin pumps at all (I often source from the local NAPA store and lately Bosch pumps for use with low silicate coolants like G-05), the water pump problems that people are having is the reason I suggest using Aisin, which makes the Toyota pumps for good or bad.

      Today's rubber belts will look new for a long time, but they'll wear thinner like tires. But they're easy to replace so no problems with reuse. Thermostat is a preventative maintenance, since you supposed have drained the coolant already. The Stant OE Exact with the jiggle valve I listed is fine. Don't use their cheap, parts store stat however.

      Don't replace the assembly lube with a gasket maker. They're two different things. The assembly lube is a grease that prevents the rubber seals from burning up if you start the engine with them dry. The gasket maker or FIPG is like caulking.

      Check out the cam and crank pulley holding tools, they'll cost more than $5 to make now: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...e-made-tool-tighten-camshaft-sproket-nut.html

      Definitely get a 1/2"-drive torque wrench, about $12 on sale at Harbor Freight. What sizes are your socket sets? I'd recommend a 1/2"-drive metric socket set with a 14" breaker bar ($26 on sale at Harbor Freight, then use 20% off coupon on their email list). http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-high-visibility-12-drive-metric-socket-set-67988.html

      You can pick up a 18" or 25" 1/2"-drive breaker bar there too. The 18" is more versatile however, but the 25" will give you more leverage. For about $10-12 a piece, you can get both. ;)

      Even if 3/8"-drive sockets supposedly work to 80 lb/ft (3/8"-drive torque wrench range), I wouldn't use them to loosen bolts tightened above 50-60 lb/ft. They're more likely to fail and bust your knuckles. And you can browse through HFT's website and compare tool prices against Craftsman, Lowes Kobalt and Home Depot's Husky if you need to add more to your collection. HFT has a mix of grades, but in general has gotten better over the years. I prefer HFT tear-drop ratchets over Crapsman, and I have both.

      Ratchet shootout: http://www.sonic.net/~alexz/Ratchet shootout.pdf

      One other thing I'd recommend is the Gates Krikit-II belt tension gauge. It's about $14 on Amazon plus shipping (if you don't have Amazon Prime).
      http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2265&location_id=2742

      i got the gates kit that includes the water pump but i'm not actually sure if it's a gates brand water pump.

      only items i don't have from your list are the ac belt and ps belt and new thermostat.
      i didn't see those necessary as they still look brand new and have no problems with operation

      DAYCO SK0001 Timing Seal Kit (Camshaft Seal, Crankshaft Seal, Oil Pump Seal, Oil Pump Gasket, Pre- Assembly Seal Lubricant;which i'll replace with the aisin gasket sealant)
      GATES TCKWP199 Timing Belt Component Kit (water pump, tension and idle pulleys, water pump w/o housing)

      items i feel i will need before starting the job that i don't have that i have gathered will make job easier from other write ups:
      -jack stands
      -breaker bar (or long metal pipe to brace socket wrench?)
      -bucket to drain coolant into
      -19,20,21 mm sockets?
      -alligator clips
      -distilled water
      -better lug wrench than my stock tire kit one
      -white marker?
      -

      I have these things already
      -floor jack
      -stanley socket set and extensions
      -parts listed
      -coolant
      -

      are there any other things you guys suggest i get?
      please keep in mind i'm trying to do this as cheap, but as proper as possible.
      i have appreciation and determination, but like i've stated i'm doing this while at college on my college budget.
       
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